Initial Z

So are the round top carbs realy not that bad? Why dose everyone say they suck? And, where can I get a rebild kit for them? If I keep the engine I have, should I be conserned with it smoking when I start it cold? Isn't that a sine that the piston rings are worn out?

Ok so I have a 73 240z that I just got and have been taking apart for body work and paint eventually I’m going to get a SR20DET in it but I want to get it back in driving condition until I have save up enough money. The main problem is the clutch is smoked and the engine is pretty tired and its got the bad carburetors from that year. The engine dose run but it burns oil until it worms up (the exhaust is a thick gray blue smoke when its started cold). I don't notice any strange sounds while its running but the oil pressure gage doesn't move much. It did have a tune up not to long ago so its probably about as good as its going to get with out new carburetors or a rebuild. Im kinda thinking about swapping out the engine for one with less milage and better carburetors possibly something from a 260z, 280z or zx. Do those engines use all the same mounts and whirring? Or should I rebuild the one I have, but then what to do about the cabs? Basically I’m looking for the cheapest way to a reliable engine, what do you guys think? Thanks, Nate

I’m in the process of tearing my 240 apart so I can paint it black. I am also going to do a SR20DET red top swap in it so I want to incorporate red accents throughout the car. As I was stripping the interior I had the thought of using red rivets instead of black when I reinstall everything. But I cant quite picture how this would look. If any one has any thoughts on this or possibly pictures of a black interior with the red plastic rivets I would be very appreciative. Thanks, Nate:-o

yea, that makes cens. thanks

I’m in the poses of getting my floor pans ready for new metal. I have been using a screwdriver to chip away the tar (or what ever it is) that is coating the metal and its getting very tidies. Is there any better tool for this? That stuff is on there good! Thanks, nate

That soda blasting looks like a good option. Do you know if it will remove bond-o? Any idea on the price? It's cool that they come to your house, but on theother hand I wounder how they would be able to get to the underside of the car? I might have to get a rotisary...

Ok ok .. so what do you guys think about having the car media blasted and just starting with a bare metal? Any idea on how expencive this is?

Is a wire wheel a good tool to use for removing old bond-o? There are a few spots where it looks like it was filled with bondo (or sum thing) and I would like to get it out so I know exactly what I'm dealing with under it. Also I have been considering having it striped down to mettle just so I can see all the rust and make sure I get it all. I have head that you only want to strip a car down to bear mettle if its absolutely necessary because it's hard to get the new paint to stick. But I am going to be using the "roller" method (discussed in another thread on this site) or at least the kind of paint they where talking about but with a HVLP sprayer. That stuff is suppose to stick to anything and it has a rust inhibitor in it so it seems like getting it to stick shouldn't be that big of a deal. what do you guys think?

Yea I definatly like the look of that dam, although I think I would change the rectangular light hole to a round hole. Making the round hole about half that big and use the rest of the space for a break cooling duct. Obviously it would take some custome glass work to do it but I think that would look good. I wounder if there is some one out there with pics of a Z with this dam and the rivit-on fender flears? Thats the look I think I want. Although I'm not sure if I would blend the fenders into the body or not? Any way, it's looking good Bartman cant wate to see it with paint! by the way check out my thread about my Z http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=618494#post618494

Ok well I ges there is no need to start a new thread...(it was late and I'm not sure why I thought I needed to start a new one) any way... hear is my Z! The body is desent just a few rust holes and dents moste of wich should be easy to repear. There is one thing I dont know how to fix, this dent in the driverside rear courner. Can someone explane how to fix this? Also, I'll need to replace the flour pan. Is there much defarenc between replacment pans? Is there one thats considred to be better than the rest? Asfar as the interiour goes its in pritty good shape other than the all the plastic molding, final, and headliner, and door panels seem to be in good shape so I was hoping to be able to save these parts. I want to strip out everything to get all the rust that might be hiding, but is it posable to remove everything and be able to re use it? Ok thats all I can think of for now, thanks all! nate

ill get pics up tomarow and start a new thread.

oups... i forgot to add the link to the 3 Port Style http://www.zcarparts.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=50-1422&Category_Code=7AD1

Thanks jmortensen! Thats the kind of info I was looking for. I like the look of the 3 Port Style by Kaminari and it seemd to have good coverage but its kinda hard to tell how low it goes from the photo. If somone can direct me to a better pick of this dam instaled that would be good.

Yea I know this sight. I was hoping to get some info on the aerodynamic performance of difarent dams. Also, thoughts on the effectivenes of the break vents that are on some of the dams. To me the use of a dam seems to be nesesity for creating a more stable car at speeds of 80mph+, but they are also adding more weight to the car thats out past the front wheals so it better be as effective as possable.

what a wast of a good z.... but on the other hand i gotta give the guy props for the craftsmenship. if it where me i would have just left the z compleatly stock, put it in a barn cover it up and for get about it for 33 years then come 2006 sell it for top dolor! thats just me though

I have been looking around at different air dams for early Zs and have seen a few that I like but I would like to get one that not only looks good (keeping with early 70s sports car look ie, hold the rice) but will also provide better aerodynamics and sufficient air flow for a big intercooler. From what I hear the G nose is where its at for good aerodynamics but unfortunately for me I don't really like that look. Also I have seen some air dams with openings in them for air flow to the front breaks, how well dose this work and is it really going to improve break performance on a car that is going to spend most of its time on the street with the occasional autox or track event? sorry if this has been covered, I looked before posting. oh yea, my car is a 73 if that matters. thanks, nate

Thanks! I ges I'll just start with the rust repear and dents and hopfully by the time im done with that ill have enoff money saved up to get the engine and tranny in for a test fit before painting.

Well after months of saving and searching I finally got a 240 Z!!!! I’m really excited to get started working on it. I have a pretty good idea what I want to do to it but I’m a little unsure about the order I should do it in. The car needs body work and rust repair, new paint and I want to do a SR20 swap on it and race suspension and breaks. But what I don't know is if I do all the body work and paint before I have fitted the new engine am I going to run into any problems with having to weld anything to the frame to get the engine to fit and mount up properly. I have never really done anything this extensive to a car before and was just wondering if you guys have any suggestions for a order of operations. Or if you guys know of any books that will help me with this. thanks, nate

Thanks guys I think that answers my question. I dont think I will have a problem with the carbs or the bumpers cuz I'm not planing on keeping it stock.

I dont rember what it was but I heard the the 73 Z has some problem with its design. I am thinking of geting one and I just wanted to know if you guys know of any reason why a 70-72 would be any better than a 73? Thanks, nate

Ok thanks thats good to know. Another thing I was thinking about was; is there any problems with the cluch pedel being on the otherside? Is it just a matter of rerouting some hidrolic lines? how dose that work? thanks

Sorry if this is a dumb question... Say you get a front clip or a Silvia or Skyline and you want to swap all the goodies into a Z, how do you deal with the transmission shift positions? Woulden’t they be all backwards sense it came out of a right hand drive car? Wouldent you be shifting from right to left? Well thanks all, Nate

I think I’d rather go with a 6 or 4 cylinder engine to keep weight down and fuel economy up.