2802NR

Here we go, I think this is what I'm looking for: try http://www.l-com.com/item.aspx?id=6939 It wont let me post a link for some reason

O.K., Thanks for straightening that out for me. Maybe I'll send them an e-mail and see if they have any info on the cable.

If its labled as "parralell" doesn't that mean no pins cross over? I thought that was the difference between parralell and series? It was my understanding that series is wired pin1 to pin2, pin2 to pin1 so both ends can send and receive data, where as parralell is wired pin1 to pin1, pin2 to pin2. Please correct me if I'm wrong, I'm still learning all of this.

I f'd up my cable I got from DIY 'cause I think I was bending it too harsh through the fire wall. I straightend out the route but now I have to re-place it and I think $70 is a little steep for a cable so I was looking around and found a parralell female/female cable for $40 at: https://www.blackbox.com The entire cable is foil shielded instead of just the O2 wire and I think it is of higher quality than the DIY cable. do you guys think this will work or do you think it will cause problems with the o2 signal?

I used the MS relay board so I eliminated the stock fuel pump relays under the dash. When you do that you end up with two white wire harness connectors hanging from under the dash. all of the wires are useless now without the stock fuel injection except for the power source for the fuel pump which is where I tapped in. If you follow the wiring diagram posted by trwebb26 it is easy to find. Its much easier than running a new wire IMO. Now if you are wanting to use the stock relay instead of the MS relay board than I'm afraid I cant help you there. Good luck.

Ahh, I dont know why I didnt think of a external radius end-mill. thats some expensive tooling. What kind of machine are you guys looking at?

How did you do the 3-D profiling on those velocity stacks? I did some work similar to that with a tapered ball end mill but it wasnt that advanced. My only guess would be a 4 or 5 axis machine. just curious.

Yes, The FI harness is totally independent of the rest of the cars wiring, although you may have to cut off the loom to seperate the water temp wire from the thermo time & cyl. head temp wires. Atleast thats what I had to do.

Turbo Isn't nessisary. Get a junkyard ZX motor, (81-83 P79) put your N47 head on it with a 1mm head gasket and a "stage 3" or higher cam. then get a header & 2.5 exhaust. Throw in a set of SU carbs and you shoud be at or above 175. If you keep the fuel injection it may take a little more depending on your elevation. Just for an example: I did that only I re-built mine with flattop's instead of using the junkyard motor and I used a standard HG. I was at 160hp on stock injection @ 4300 ft. elevation. I spent close to $2000 but the junkyard route would be cheaper

Sorry, I guess I miss-read. was the 298 crank horse or am I just making up numbers?

Yes, It was built for a Hall/optical/points signal. I ended up using the tach output off of the MSD for my tach signal. A few people said it wasn't nesisary and it probly wasn't but it was the only thing that would work for me.

Brian510 was pushing 298 Wheel-horse last I heard. That was a 3.2 stroker on webbers.

So exactly how big does a datalog need to be in order for mstweak to use it? I have taken a few 5-10 minute drives, logging the entire time and every time I load it to MST it says "finished plotting" but nothing shows up in the VE area plot.

That looks great! where are you getting the material for the fuel rail?? Whats it called? I am having trouble finding somthing that will work for mine.

Just waiting for some free time on the mill. This is a very busy time of year at my work. I never intendid to sell one, or parts to one. It would be more cost effective to buy a manifold from Lonewolf performance since I would have to charge a shitload to break even. But if you are just interested in a set of runners we could probly work something out.

O.K. here is some more info on my setup, MS1 ver. 3 board wired for a Hall/opto signal. Everything worked fine with the stimulator plugged in. The rpm circut worked and the injector circut worked as well. I am using ver. 2.25 code with a relay board. All of my sensors are reading properly and my TPS is calibrated but still no signal. Last night I tried to tap into the tachometer circut after its resistor and had the same results, No signal while cranking. ANY suggestions are welcome, I am up for trying anything right now. Also, I read that installing an MSD unit and using its tach output works well. I am up for this too but I dont have the money right now. Thanks for any help, Jay.

I'm not getting any tach signal on my guage display or my realtime display while cranking. I have searched around and it seems other people have had issues with a tach signal but no one posted a solution. I was wondering were else I could tap into for a tach signal. Right now i have it wired to the - side of the coil. I am running MS1 ver. 3 fuel only.

Looks factory to me. I think you did a great job.

Thanks man.

I just have a few questions. Where did everyone tap in for the fuel pump wiring? (1977) Off the connector were the relay once was maybe? if so wich wire is it? My diagrams are faded as hell. (and weren't that great to begin with)

I didnt think of that. Thanks!

I have been searching and it seems that everyone is running MSnS or extra and most are running fuel and spark. Im just looking for something to get it started, not a perfect map or anything as I am looking forward to learning the tuning process first-hand. Here is my setup to give you an idea: MS1 ver. 3 board running FUEL ONLY N/A L28 10.4-1 with .460, 270/280 cam Stock injectors I dont think this matters but: DIY wide band GM air & clt sensors and I am over 4000 ft elavation. Any map sharing would be greatly appreciated

I signed. I havn't watched speed in 3 years because of the nascar satturation. WTF is "unique whips"? or do I want to know?

Looks good man. I'm still waiting for some free time on the mill so I can finish mine.

I belive (correct me if I am wrong) that the pre-built boards have the flyback board (for low impedance injectors) built in. It is my understanding that regular injectors will run fine with the flyback board installed even though they dont need it so DIY builds it ("DIY builds it" thats funny!) capable of both low and high impedence injectors. As for the tach signal, you need to tell us what you have.