nategdizzle

this is a cam grind for a turbo application and they do not overlap just more duration on exhaust..i just want to make sure i dont have too much cam for my turbo and loose too much low end..but i guess with my cr at 8.47:1 i should gain some low end there compared to some turbo guys..does anyone out there have an idea of when my turbo will spool by..and where a cam with this profile might peak at?

i have a to4b .60ar compressor and t3 .63 turbine housing..and a cam with a duration deg of 280-270 with a lift of .465...scott at delta cams told me it was what i should go with so i had him grind it for me and now i was wondering if i made the right choice..also how do i figure out what my compressor and turbine wheels are? the compressor is out of a 82 allis chalmers tractor and has 60-1 stamped on it.

ok, well i just looked into setting up my cam and its a bit more in depth than i had thought it would be..i should have known ..i didnt take into consideration that i have had a 3 angle valve grind and new valves from arizona z that might change the valve stem height..would anyone know a good place to start with for lash pad thickness

hey guys i had my cam reground to 280int 270exh. duration deg. and .465 lift and .008 int. valve lash and .010 exh. on an n42 head..how thick of lash pads do i need...also i have seen some forums about how todays oils dont have enough phosphates or zinc for flat tappet cam break ins..i was wondering what the consensus was on that issue..i know the oil we use in our tractors and semis has a higher phosphate content but i already bought some castrol hd 30w for breaking it in...is there an additive i could use..aslo is there anything i should be aware of when i start my engine for the first time that will save me some headaches?

i was just wondering if the voltage regulator on the passenger side fender well is needed if i get a new alternator with one in it..i wasnt sure on what it regulated voltages for, everything or is it wired into just the lights or what. i am trying to clean up my engine bay while i have my engine out and am repainting it. also i have been looking at pictures of turbo 280s to see what changes i need to make to my engine bay so far i have made a pocket in my fender well for my 3in charge pipe to my turbo..is there anything else i need to do before i paint to make everything fit?

sweet..i wish i knew more about turbos..a flow map is kinda uncharted ground for me..are there any threads or sites that could shed some more light on the subject for me

yeah sorry bout that mix up 490lift 280 duration...what turbine wheel would be the best for my t3 housing? i have heard people say to have it machined out to fit the t4 wheel but no one around here wants to do it for me cuz they are afraid of messing it up..also is there a place i can send my compressor wheel to get balanced..

hey guys i have a t4 60-1 trim with a t3 turbine off a 82zx..i was wondering if i could put a different wheel in there since i have it apart for a rebuild. what wheel should i go with or should i just leave it..i have a cam that is on its way to be re-ground at delta cams..im not sure exactly what i want and i was wondering if you guys had any ideas where i might want it to peak at and what i want lift and duration..the guy at delta said something about a 280 lift with 490 duration and having it peak at 6200 and be good for 7200 but im not sure on anything yet..i have ported polished head and manifolds ,lt-8 standalone ecu, 24x12 fmic, 3in dp, 60mm tb..i have a 8.47:1 cr..i want to push it as hard as i can with the stock pistons that i have for now.. i was hoping for around 350+hp for a weekend warrior/ kinda daily driver

do i need new springs if i swap my n42 cam for a p90? my n42 cam got a couple of small dings on the lobes somehow so i think i better change it out for as cheap as i can

how much boost do you guys think i will be able to run be i max out my injectors..i wont be able to buy any injectors for awhile since my truck just got ran over by a tractor and inusrance wont cover it so i want to push these as far as i can..can i just turn the duty cycle up until the injectors are open all the time pretty much or is that a no no, my fuel pump is the high output msd that is supposed to flow like 500hp...also i was wondering if anyone might be able to tell me about how much rwhp i may be able to achieve with this setup..ive got arp bolts throughout the engine and its freshly rebuilt with stock dished pistons 24x12 fmic 3in dp mandrel bent 3in exhaust 60mmtb and head work with undercut tuliped valves but its still a stock n42 cam and port matched manifolds...also i dont know how much of a limiting factor my to4ob compressor will be with compressor wheel i have..they came from a tractor haha..hope im not asking too much from you guys haha

thanks guys

i have stock zxt injectors with a t3/t4 and ported/poished head and intake exhaust manifold with lt8 standalone efi.. how much of a load can i put on my injectors..how much fuel pressure should i run..i built a fuel rail, kinda like pallnet and rsk makes, my fuel pump is good for like 125psi and it seems like i read that the zxt injetors make their best spray pattern at 80psi..is it a good idea to run that much psi? any suggestions?

oh yeah one more thing is a torque plate a must for boring my block..no one around here seems to have one.

i would like to have some pistons made..but i dont even know where to start really..i would like to make a good quench area wat is the best way to that..i also am having my combustion chamber cc'ed and need to polish out some rough areas on number 6 cylinder..is there anything i could have my machinist do to the head to improve the quench area as well?

hey guys i was thinking about going with forged pistons..i was wondering if there is anything i should be aware of when making a decision on them. i would like to go as cheap as i could. i have a n42 head and fel-pro headgasket and my compression is going to be around 8.47:1 or so..if i bore it out to 87mm like i want it will go to 8.65..is that too high for a turbo l28 i have good 93 octane here in iowa and i should have good detonation control..atleast thats what i think haha..should i think about lowering my compression with a gasket or will i be ok thanks nathan

yeah ive had my truck since 2000 and i just got a pump in my town last year and i put it in and my truck ran more smoothly and reved faster on it..worse mpg though:(

Hey guys i was wondering if anyone knew anything about setting up my z to run on e85..its 105 octane and makes my flex fuel ranger run like hell..i have my microtec lt8 and wb 02 but i dont know if the optimal a/f ratio would be different with e85 or if there are any other cautions besides the rubber seals not holding up..also i have a few small rust spots on my cylinder walls..i honed them back in may but never got the engine put back together..i used a scotchbirte pad to remove them but it still has some discoloration..i can run my finger over it and it feels smooth and isnt pitted..should i leave it or hone it again thanks nathan

hey guys i just got all of my body work finished on my car and have been concentrating on getting my engine built i have a microtech lt-8 and a lc-1 wideband o2..t3/t4 port and polish on intake, head, and exhaust man 60mm tb 24x12 fmic 3in dp..i was just wondering, since this is my first l28 build, if there were any z specific build and break in tips also i have never programed a fuel map or tuned a car with a wideband o2 sensor so if anyone has any tips on that they would be appriciated as well. thanks. nate

hey guys im getting ready to throw my engine back together for the first time and was wondering if anyone had any tips that could save me some headaches down the road.

yeah it says .60 on the compressor housing so im guessing thats what it is..the turbine is .63 ar...i dont know of any place around here that could do that work..i will look around and see what i can find..is .60 too small..im not going to buy a bigger one since i found this one in my dads shop for free i will use it so i guess it is what it is as long as its better than stock t3.

well i can see all the way through the crack way into the snail i can see it no being too bad but wouldnt it hurt its performance some?

well i just got my turbo apart and found out it is cracked around the wastegate hole and im not sure what housing i should get to go with the t04b since i have to get one anyways. i want to reduce lag as much as i can. the one i have says .63 on it.

i posted this in the turbo forum but thought i might get some good input over here. Well i was doing some spring cleaning in my dad shop today and found a t04b80 off of one of our tractors, the exhaust side has a big crack and hole in it but the compressor is in good shape...i have a t3 off an 83 280zx and that i just got a rebuild kit for and have sitting ready to rebuild should i use this t04b to make a t3/t4 hybrid or will it spool too slow..i have a ported n42 head and ported intake and exhaust manifold a big skyline intercooler 60mm tb 3in exhuast so i figure it will flow pretty well but i dont know anything about making a good t3/04b hybrid. its an aireasearch t04b80 serial of iho205 if that helps anyone identify it the intake on the cool side says 11 and the outlet says 5 with .60 under it it also has m11 5 stamped on the outside of the housing..the inlet is 3in and tapers down to the compressor fins, 8 double blades, the outlet is 2in...i want to make as much power as i can with my newly rebuilt bottom and top end say 300-350hp and streetable and maybe more at the track if i can with my stock dished cast pistons i have great detonation control so that wont be a problem. thanks nathan

ok one last thing haha..i saw i put that there were 7 double fin blades and there are actually 8.. and M11 and 5 is printed on it as well.

also my hp goals are whatever stock 77 dished pistons can take with msd 6btm and microtech lt8 both have map sensors and ign. ret/lb of boost to control detonation and i have good iowa 93 octane..i dont know how much boost i can push the stock internals to but i would like to make a 350hp streetable car if not more