rchrd989

cool thanks guys, Im thinking im not gonna worry about it for now.

I would just be swapping the cam towers, camshaft rockers lash pads etc. the E88 head has a spray bar for oiling, even with the motosport high pressure oil spring i only yeild 15 psi of oil pressure at idle. the P79 cam is internally oiled

I currently have an E88 head on my N42 block. (Im not sure which E88 head I have) I have the oppurtunity to get a rebuilt P79 locally for a very good price. Im wondering if it would be worth it to replaced the E88's spray bar style valvetrain with the p79 internally oiled valvetrain, I looked at some specs http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/cam/index.htm and I see that there is some differences. What do you guys reccomend I do?

it's brand new. I thought so to so I replaced it.

So I have a 72 240 that I rescued awhile ago from sitting for 15 years. brakes wise ive replaced teh front callipers with yota calipers, rebuild the rear wheel cylinders the right way, replaced the master cylinder, took apart each of the 3 valves and cleaned them throughly. What I have going on is when the car isnt running there is good pedal pressure but when the car is running there is none. Ive bled the brakes over and over again and checked for leaks. also the pedal makes a nasty clunk when you push it in. Any ideas? I more concerned about the nasty clunk I can figure out the pressure issue.

Yea im thinking Im gonna get 215's Im thinking that would look and hook up real nice. I found a set of 225's and I was thinking that that would be probably a little bit to big of a tire to stretch on a 6" thanks guys

How wide have any of you guys gone? And how was and would you go that wide again? Im tire shopping and I havent decided how wide Im wanting to go yet, any sugestions? Thanks, Richard

I recently just got my first engine build running and i noticed that if the brake booster vacume line isnt connected then it will run alot different, and also check the dampening on your slides on you SU's

Its an E88 that i bought from the guy on ebay that sells alot of remanufactured heads. I ended up taking a metric bolt, cutting the head off, cutting it in half and cut a groove for a screwdriver in each to plug the holes. actually worked pretty good.

SO i found the problem, I empied my carbs dampening oil and i put ATF in my carbs. I started up my car and let it run for awhile and gave it some gas and yada yada. i noticed the oil collecting wasnt red! so i looked really hard everywhere and coudn't find anything. So i noticed these two threaded holes next to two studs on my cylinder head, i grabbed a small allen and enough said the allen went in the hole a few inches! the oil was coming form these holes. I looked at my spare heads and neither of them had these holes. http://a472.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/26/l_30cc7ed105c0ad8b8bf3477c4fed23ef.jpg"

yea i think im going to try that tomorrow since i have a day off, i guess im just happy thats its not making its way into the engine and burning it, but then again its getting splatterd everywhere! Ill post tomorrow after i try atf and write my results

I hopeing someone has had this same thing happen to them also...

When i pulled my old L24 we set the block in a wheel barrow, I was pushing the wheelbarrow to our scrap pile behind our garage and while my dad was supposed to be spotting me he decided to talk about somthing insted, i lost control of the barrow and one of the points of the block on the transmission mating side hit landed on my foot before anything else! somehow i didnt break my foot! thank god for being younge and loving milk!

So recently I finished my engine ground up build and got it in the car. everythings hooked up and I got it running. while i was in the process of adjusting timing, air fule mixutre and syncronizing the carbs i noticed liquid on my exaust manifold burning off, at first i thought it was gas dripping from somehwere and that wasnt the case, i turned off the Z and checked around, there was oil underneath my balance tube, on my exaust manifold, backside of my individule air filters and on the engine bay wall on the driver side, i noticed that while reving these droplets appeared, so i took the tops off my carbs and pulled the slides out, there is oil getting into my mixture from the oil in my slides! i assumed that maybe i had to much in there, so i empteid them out and put new oil in there, i filled them up to the second line and made sure each slide felt the same going up, i started my Z up again and it does it again! its almost as if the oil is comming from my balance tube, I thought about changing the oil with atf to make sure that the oil i have splattering is from the carbs, so insted of having oil everywhere id have red oil everywhere, what should I do? thanks guys Richard

the line that was pinched off was the return on the fuel rail. hey i really appriciate all of the responses! thanks, Richard keep them commin!

I'm setting up a L28 with 30 over deck flush flat tops. On top of that I have a E88 with a 3 angle valve job with a stock cam. Im then setting up my 72 SU's with SM needles. So im not sure on how much power Ill be having, but not too much.

do you run the return all the way back to the tank? And if so is there a factory hard line underneath?

Im wondering how you guys have yoru fuel return set up. Im setting up a fuel cell in the rear of my Z with an electronic fuel pump right at the cell. Did stock Z's have a line that went all the way back to the tank or what? I tried doing a search on here but couldnt really find anything. When I got my Z the return line was pinched off. thanks Richard

So i have one of the most dumb questions ever that im about to ask. I originally took my 240z engine out probably 8 or so months ago. I didnt take pictures. What in the world is that medal pipe near the AC bracket mouting holes? Do I need it? How do I get it to fit snug? And what in the world is it for!! thanks alot guys, I really do feel kinda stupid, Ive been putting off making a post for about 2 weeks now in embarresment. I looked all over the web and couldnt find a thing! Oh and Ill try and figure out how to post some pictures of the progress sometime soon thanks, Richard

when i assembled the motor i had to turn the crank to TDC before bolting up the head and setting the timing. from moving it then there wasnt any scorn marks. When i assembled the bottom end the pistons with the new rings went in without any trouble. My service manager thinks i should do what i stated before. To remove the plugs, spray lots of fogging oil and crank it over to cycle oil. Both my service manager and this old guy at my work whos been a service manager say that if i use enough fog oil that it should protect the cylinders. remeber that its jsut tough to get it to move, but as soon as it does move its not to hard to turn it, its just that initial umphh

I work at a motorcycle shop so im going to talk to my service manager about it some more today.

what do you think of pulling the plugs and and spraying loads of fogging oil in the cylinders and cranking it over to cycle oil? that way my starter will be relieved of compression and the fogging oil will help protect the cylinders? the rest of the components wont be ready for start up for about a week or so. So i could even put some oil in the cylinders to help also? thanks alot guys i really appriciate it Richard

oh one more thing. When I would turn the crank with all of the pistons is, it was just hard to start moving it, then it would move fine.

Im not sure on those clearences. The motor is complete now. As for the ring gap it was within spec i jsut dont remeber it off the top of my head. I didnt use assembly lube on the cylinders ( i didnt know of that) but I did use lots and lots of oil. I just hope it all works out.

well before installing each piston i put the ring that was going in that cylinder in the cylinder and checked the gap. each ring was within spec. I checked each ring sets in each cylinder bore.