rchrd989

I gapped them to the specs in the book.. I dont remeber off the top of my head.

I have been spending the past few months slowly rebuilding my L28 that im putting in my 240, (pictures soon) and im kinda worried. when i rebuilt the bottom end the crank spun freely. As i put in each piston and new rings it got harder and harder to turn over with my hands on the front pully, with the last piston in it took 2 guys to turn it over. each cylinder we lubed before instalation. With each piston in and the complete bottom end rebuild i put puddles of oil on the tops of each pistons to make sure all of the cylinders were lubed. I purchased a rebuild cylinder head from a guy that does a bunch of them (also stiff) which i expected due to the fact of pushing down valves, but i could turn it with a rag on an old timing gear with my hands. now i have the motor completly bolted together and ready to go. I was torqing the front pully bolt (105 lb ft) and the motor wouldnt turn! same with torqing the clyinder head timing gear bolt and washer. I guess im worried wheather or not my starter will have enough ummpphh to break it all free. I smothered engine lube on the cam lobes and made sure to fill the oil pump with fresh oil before i installed it, and i will definitly dump oil all over the cam and rocker arms before i install the cover. is there anyway I can oil the cam before it runs? and what about the crank? I made sure to use oil and assembly lube on all the new bearings. What do you guys think? thanks for the long read! Richard

so i did more of a search on here and reading about detonation is getting me worried. Im starting to think that I should probably lower my compression by getting a 2mm head gasket. I dont want to have to retard the timing so much that im loosing all the power that i would be getting from my increased compression

my motor is slowly coming together. I have my 30 over L28 with flat tops and a E88and some 72 round top SU's. Im wondering with this compression increase if you guys have any expierience on how i should set up the timing. I have a brand new timing kit and I want to make it good the first time around. what would you guys sugest? Do any of you have a similar set up? Thanks, Richard

hey thanks guys, I figured that I needed a clutch kit for my 240 but was unsure on the differences and whether or not one would be better, thanks guys.

So I have a L28 with that im putting in my 240z, everywhere it says that clutch kits for 240's and for 280s are different, but what are the differences? I know the flywheels are the same with the late 240s and then on, but what is the difference with the clutch kits? So pretty much my question is which clutch kit do I need, one for a 240 or one for a 280, or does it even matter? thanks. Richard

yea i didnt know if he had a 280 or not. I had a 280 for awhile but i got rid of it as fast as i got it because it was a piece

I had a similar problem when I had a 1975 280z. Use your chilton book and your multimeter to test the leads off of your ignition control module. When i tested that it said everything was ok and it ended up being the module itself. If you have an autozone nearby they can check them

I am having the hardest time finding piston rings for my application. I have a L28 bored .75 over with flat tops. regular L28 +.75 pistons have piston groves measured at 2.0mm 2.0mm and 4.0mm 280zx turbo +.75 pistons have 1.5mm 2.0mm and 4.0mm grooves.... well my pistons have 1.7mm 2.0mm and 4.0mm grooves. where am I able to find piston rings that will fit? Ive been looking for quite the time now. Im not sure on 280zx piston rings i only could find specs on 280z and 280zx turbo rings. please help me out guys! thanks, Richard

yea, that does all make sense. I have honed before and i have read up on it. I also work at a motorcycle shop and the lead mechanic and I were talking about it. Ill definitly look into prices.

Well do you tihnk maybe you didnt use enough oil while honeing? Or possibly did you go to fast? All could be factors. How much would a machine shop cost do you think?

I just borrowed a ball hone to hone my cylinders in my l28. I read somewhere that you should use a 3.5" hone (89mm). Well the hone I have accsess to is a 4" hone. the motor is bored .75mm over. Im wondering if its that big of a deal needing a 3.5 inch or will the 4 inch work just fine? I dont want to ruin it obviously. Im unsure on the grit of the hone. thanks, Richard

make sure the vacum line from the valve cover to the carbs is there, when i got my z that had been sitting that line was missing, I tried everything to get it started and i finally saw a picture with that vacum line there and it started right up

So flat steel didnt work, but I did make a succesful puller out of some square stock and some bolts and got the two caps off easily, Now I jsut have to wait for some parts and the process will continue!

Will do, As of right now I have the motor almost completly torn down, I have everything removed other than the crankshaft, I can get all of the caps off except for the rear main seal cap and the main cap, I dont have a puller that works but Im going to try and make one tomorow our of some flat steel and some bolts

Im taking that the .75 on the top of the piston means .75mm oversized. I looked in my black dragon auto catolog and they sell piston rings that are .75mm over. So im just gonna buy those and I think it will work out, thanks alot. Richard

So I looked in my conversion table and .75 is equal to .03 and 3.412 minus 3.386 is equal to .026 like you said. So im going to be needing new rings, where would you guys reccomend getting rings at, Ive looked all over online and i only can find .02 rings and .04 rings... where should I look, ive looked all over thanks, Richard

yea I dont know, the numbers are one on top of the other, do you think that the .75 stamped on the piston top would possibly be it being .75mm over?

I only have one piston pulled, those numbers are both on the one piston right next eachother.

I just cleaned up the top of the piston real quick and it has .75 stamped on the edge near like a notch or groove that all the pistons have.

Ive been gone the past two days or so so I havent cleaned them up real good yet, but so far I havent seen any markings such as std or .02 the rod has 12-1(some symbol, looks almost like a chevy emblem) then A87-2 and on the inside of th skirt it has N8601 and N8600

Heres whats going on, I have a L28 that I bought a little while back that I was gonna put in my 240z with a E88 head. The guy i bought it from was some punk kid about my age who had a bunch of Z parts. He said his uncle rebuilt it 40,000 miles ago, so getting the motor for $150 seemed like a good deal. Well lately Ive been looking more and more at the motor, looking at the cylinders and seeing no satching left at all... the pistons are nice and black but I decide that Im going to rebuild it anyway because of the cylinders being so smooth. I take out piston number 6 and one of the rings is completly broken in half. I bring it to the bench and grab my measuring calliper. I read in my "How to rebuild your nissan and datsun OHC engine" book that the L28 has a 3.386" bore. Well I go measure my cylinder and it measures to be 3.412 and the piston measures at 3.396 Also the pistons are completly flat, they are not like the pistons I pulled out of my L24. Could you guys help me out? Am i dealing with stock 280z stuff or am I dealing with more, I really need to know so I can order some parts... Thanks guys Richard

Hey thanks guys, Im not planning on shaving the head or block, Any shaving that would be done would be just a surfacing of the head. Thanks! Richard

I am currently setting up a motor for my 72 240z Im using a L28 block with an E88 head, what timing kit do I need? Or are the L24 and L28 with either E88 or N42 all the same? Thanks

Ok thats what I was hopeing for, So you all think Ill be ok to not replace the rings, the pistons dont show any marks from oil burning such as a white ring around the piston. thanks, Richard