gene_w

Just a note for your front conversion. If you plan to use the 300ZX hubs on the front, the mounting surface for the wheels move outward and you will end up needing a different offset wheel than stock. To make the back wheel offset match the front, you will need to use longer than normal studs on the back and use a spacer to even it up with the front. Gene

I don't know of anybody selling the stubs already drilled, but any competent machine shop should be able to do it for you for a reasonable price. It just involves pressing out the old lugs, drilling new holes, and then pressing in new studs. It is important that the lugs end up in a perfect 4.5" circle so that the wheel is perfectly centered to prevent vibration. Gene

You almost got it. It's called a "Master Vac". I believe this was short for master cylinder vacuum servo, or something like that. It's more commonly known as a "power brake booster". These can be found at auto parts stores like Autozone. I bought one from them and it costed me like $90 or so. To replace it, you contort yourself under the driver's dash and undo like 4 bolts (nuts?) and pull the pin from the top of the brake pedal arm. Then you go to the engine compartment and unbolt the master cylinder and, being very careful of the brake lines, pull the master cylinder away from the booster. Then disconnect the big vacuum line going to the booster. Now you should be able to yank that sucker off of the firewall and replace it. As for diagnosing if it's the problem or not, I'm not real sure how. I replaced mine because when I hit the brake pedal, I heard a hissing under the dash and the engine would speed up. Turns out my "master vac" was leaking. Gene

Depends on the oil. I'm not sure about the others, but I know that you can mix Amsoil with anything without consequence. It was designed to be perfectly compatible with standard oils. Gene

You'll definitely need the half-shafts that belong on the R200. They attach to the differential in a different way. I'm not sure about the front mount, but you might need that whole cross-member. I seem to recall something about the earlier cars having the differential too far forward and than the R200 was moved back a bit. Not sure the details of this. Also, something I noticed when swapping parts on my '75 280Z was that there are different input flanges on the differentials depending on the year. I pulled an R200 from a '74 260Z and the input flange was smaller than the one on the R200 already in my '75. Gene

Looks like a post to me! Gene

I believe all of the original window louvers used the weatherstrip mounting method. The larger ones that bolt on are definitely not original. There were also aftermarket louvers that mounted in the weatherstriping similar to the originals. Mine have a sticker on them that says 'shadow'. I'm guessing that's the brand name. I pulled them off of a junkyard car and doubt they're original. I'm not sure how to recognize the factory louvers. Gene

I've got a few questions about converting to a 5-lug setup from a 300ZX on my '75 280Z. I've searched all over the place here and am having a hard time finding good concrete information. My planned setup is to us 5 lug 300ZX rotors and hubs. These came off a late-80's 300ZX out at the junkyard. I also grabbed some 280ZX calipers as per Terry Oxandale's writeup on Zhome.com. First question: Is there any specifics as far as what year 280ZX calipers I need? I know that they were different between the earlier and later 280ZX's. I forgot to find out what year car I pulled them from. Any way for me to identify them? I sure hope I don't have to go back to buy another set. Second question: How much do I need to get turned off of the outer diameter of the 300ZX rotor? I've seen numbers ranging from 0.1" to 0.25". Anybody know for sure? Third question: How thick does the spacer between the hub and rotor need to be? I've seen varying numbers on this as well. Thanks in advance. Gene

Go to http://www.kalecoauto.com/ and click on 'Performance' in the menu at the left. Gene

Seems to me Ford Motorsport used to list one in their catalog. I'm not sure if it's still in there or not, but it would be worth a shot. Gene

bump

Very interesting, RacerX! I've got a couple questions for you. First, what sort of places should I look for plastic sheets to form, as well as an infrared light like you mentioned. Second, how tight a curve can you get the stuff to form to? And finally, are these plastic sheets available in colors or do they have to somehow be dyed? Thanks Gene

In case it helps any, the 351M and 400M had the same bell-housing bolt pattern as a big-block Ford (429-460ci). Gene

Now that would be sweet, but try putting that to the ground! You'd rip that poor R200 to shreds! Sounds like it'd be time for a 9" and some tubs. Those stangs sure would spend a lot of time looking at the backside of that screamin' Z! Gene

I've got a 351W that is marked as having come out of an '82 Econoline, and it's got a rear-sump oil pan. the oil pump is in the front and it just has a long pickup that goes all the way to the back of the pan. Looks like it should drop into my '75 pretty easily! Gene

I don't know if the bolt pattern is the same or not, but you can't use that flywheel on the newer motor. These motors are externally balanced, using the harmonic balancer and flywheel. The earlier 302's (pre '83?) used a 28oz offset, while the newer 302's use a 50 oz. offset. If you do use the older flywheel on the newer engine, it will vibrate like a mo'fo . Get the one that belongs with the engine and you'll be fine. Gene

Hey, when you're good, you're good! Gene

blueovalz(Terry Oxandale) installed his 302 with front and rear engine plates. I'm not real clear on what the advantages/disadvantages are at this point. I do know that it would make for a much stronger setup. I'm sure he will jump in and explain the details. You can see pictures of his install at http://www.fototime.com/inv/5AD13CAF9177541. Click on the engine link on the left to see them. You might also look at the other pics he's got there. That's one sweet car! Gene

I would have to agree. I was looking for a driver's door for my '75 and found that the 2+2 doors are longer. Go ahead and measure them. They are like 4 inches or so too long. They also have provisions for a second handle towards the back for rear-seat passengers to open the doors with. It's too bad, because there's tons of 2+2s in the junk yards. Now if we could only find inexpensive fiberglass doors, that would be ! Gene