snarpee

Hey guys, Just thought Id share a pic of my new Motorsports Auto type 3 front spoiler. I had to move teh side wheel arch's back 2" in order to make it fit they way I wanted. I cut the ends off my bumber, and installed it using 4 1/4-20 bolts from under neath the bumber, the nuts are welded on inside the bumber. Then I used the factory airdam mounting locations underneath the headlight buckets. My car has different fron hubs which increased the track width, not to mentin the 17" wheels that also made the spoiler not fit. A few cuts with the die grinder (of course no mask, and short sleeves, dam Im itchy now...) and the fibberglass pieces were all patch bak up and ready for business. In the future I plan on making the center spoiler and actually spoiler that will generate more downforce, and fill in the grill openeings with stianless steel mesh.

Mikelly What size did you go with for your wheels (front & rear)(tires too???)

ozzinc Jesus Christ, thats beautiful. Im gelious.

roger280zx just for you brother..... More pics of my rear wheels installed, I've only test driven it a few times so far, still have to reg. the car. but not issues with rubbing, seems like I can still drop it another .5-1.0" if need be. and keep aprox 1.5 - 2" of travel. Once she is driven in anger aroudn my local track Ill know how everything fit and functions, hopfully no rubbing.

Sharring, Team III wheels: Front = 17 x 10" (5 lug), tires 265mm Rear= 17 x 11.5" (5lug) tires 315mm Offset = 5.5" all around Sacrafice = 2.5" of fender material removed. Struts = Sectioned (removed 2", went with Konis), that lowered teh car 1.5" from stock, yet I still have 2.5" of down travel.

jdizzy204The wheel hub flange is in the same spot as stock, unless you want to move them out a little, the rear arms are adjustable a little. My wheels 11.5" is what put my wheels farther out.

ozzzzz, Yep Team III wheels in San Leandro

ozzzzz, Im in the Easy Bay

roger280zx Yep, they ate Team III wheels, Im very luck they are located about 45 miles away from me, so I went there and spoke with the owner and we got everything figured out to ensue they would fit. I know I would have to cut the car, I also knew that once I handed over my cash and they were custom made for me, Id never see my cash again, even if I screwed up some of the dimensions. Kinda hard to return custome fabricated wheels make to your specs. So I purposly pushed the wheels out 1/4" more that I really needed just to make sure they didnt hit the coil overs or the inner fender (its close right behind the driver seat to inner fender area). In reality I could have saved the 1/4" but my 2,500$ wheels fit. I went with 17x11 in the rear with 5.5" back spacing, the front are 17x10 (had to be custom made, not in their catalog) with 5.5" back spacing. Since I set all the back spacing at 5.5", my plan B (should disaster strike) was to put the fronts in the rear, then buy 9" width for the front. That way at least 2 of teh 4 wheels would fit the car and I wouldnt be out 4 custom made wheels. Also, just a quick FYI... The owner (I forget his name, want to say its Steve), is a really great guy, his shop does great work, in fact he let me borrow a 17X11 with a 315 already mounted on it to use for my mock up, who does that these days. Im not saying he would do it again, but he did it for me and that really helped me figure out the back spacing etc.... and be somewhat confident in my dimensions before I dropped the cash. Id highly recommend there wheels to anyone looking for that vintage look with lots of options for larger more modern tires.

ZT-R, Using the super ZG flares there would seem to be enought clearance in the rear for your 335. However you better make sure your back spacing is dead nuts on and get is as close to your coil overs and frame as possible, in addition it will be dam close and your going to have to trim the body. I cut 3" out of mine, It kille me to do it, the car has a decent paint job and everything, never the less, I too a grinder to it. Also, in response to your desire to put 335's out back, thats cool, that was my original plan too, but after looking at the cost of 335's compared to 315's I went with the 315's knowing that out Z cars have rear toe in and - camber, means were gona be buying rubber more often that you would with a fixed axle car.

Hey all, Thought I’d share my new wheels and flares partially installed, still have to make the final body cuts, bending and welding, but it’s a step closer. My brother and I have spent time on this project over the last 6 years and I drove it around the block the other day. All I can say, is wow, it’s a completely different car now, I orginaly saved this car from "DRAG RACE HELL", now it feels more like a raod racing Corvette or BMW, its solid adn responsive, of course I havent had it over 40mph yet so who knows....hehehehhe Here's a little of what I've done for reference: 1" 280Z master cylinder Koni's all around Camber plates all around Willwood 6 piston calipers up front Infinity Q45 disc conversion from TTT in rear TTT rear suspension R230 VLSD differential TANK axles (39 spline) Coil-overs 325lbs hypercoils in front 300lbs hypercoils in the rear 17x10 wheels up front with 255mm nittos (going to 275mm eventually (got a smoking deal on the 255mm for now) 17X11 wheels in the rear with 315mm nittos 350 Chevy mild cam, sportsman heads, single plane, holley 750 DP with 4 corner idle circuit, 50cc pumps T56 6 speed tranny Momo steering wheel, with NRG quick release Dash mounted rear brake proportion valve control New steering rack Suspension Techniques sway bars Left to do: 383 stroker upgrade ProCharger install Dual exhaust Fuel Cell 8-10 point cage Race dash with gauges Race seats MSA Type 3 front air dam MSA victory rear spoiler Sand Prime Paint Maybe before I die or my business comsumes me, anyhow I appreciate everyone sharing their projects, its my turn. Also, if your in the Bay Area and you have a Z with flares installed, Id love to check it out. One final note, the pic of the rear of the car is a little deceving, my driveway slopes up and I put the camera on the ground so it make the car look really high, in reality its 1.5" lower than stock.

I'm in Northern CA (Bay area), if your looking to sell your Motorsports Auto Victory rear wing, or Type 3 front spoiler, let me know I want it. Drop me a PM.....please!!!

Hey Guys, To answer both of the first 2 reply`s: 1st: I needed to used a grant adapter because after 4 phone calls to the NRG tech. guy he assured me they had an adapter, after buying 2 of them and neither of them working, I decided to make my own, in addition the MOMO adapter with the NRG quick release puts the steering up against my spleen, hehehhahahahah. 2nd: Dude if I had the time I would make you button, but things are crazy right now.... Hope your projects are going well....!!!!

Here are a few pics of my adapter installed, I cnc machined it from a block of 7075. I'm using a grant hug for the spline, a NRG quick release, and my adapter mates the two together ultimately ending at me sweet little Momo wheel. Sorry for the crappy pics...

Yea, I could use one, send me a PM and I can get you paid thru paypal.

Hey All, Anyone want to sell me a brake pedal pin, the one that pins the brake pedal assembly to the plunger / rod comming out of the brake booster, just under the dash. I pretty sure its a hardened pin so I can just use any old steel pin there. Let me know if you have one and are willing to ship it to me, I can use paypal if you like.

Hey there Rag's, If I understand correctly, yes I will be using slip over lug wheels, however I will be making some hubcentric adapters so things center up correctly every time. I will post pics once mounted...

Thought I add this: If you look at the picture on the lower right you will see a grey plastic thingy, its from Piercy its a tire and wheel estimator so that you can sweep the inside of you fenders, turn your wheels, compress your suspension and check for clearance's. My .02$ on this tool is this, its a pretty good tool, but you really need to measure the actual tires and wheels at a store in order to 100% confident about your clearances. For example even though I can set the tool to mimic a 11" wheel, the tool mimics it from the bead face of the wheel, not the outer most edge of the wheel. In my case a 11" wheel is really 12.125" (12-1/8") from outer edge to outer edge, that could really mess you up with backspacing. In addition you have to really watch the spec sheets from the tire manufactures, so will measure the width as "section width" & others will measure the tires width as "Over all width". Section width is from the beginning outer most inner most tread to the outermost tread end, and over all width is from the outer most part of the inner sidewall to the outer most part of the outside sidewall, not including any tire letters and text height. That tool could mess you up so be carfull. Lawfair disclaimer.... I'm not an expert, so check you numbers and if possible measure from real tires and wheels at your local store if possible....

Hey all, Thought I'd share my decision and dread... After years of torment and indecision I took the plunge. Fronts are going to be 17x10 with Nitto NT555 255/40/17 tires Rears are going to be 17x11 with Nitto NT555 315/35/17 tires If I've done my math correct and measured everything correctly (checking ride height, lock to lock, and full compression) I should be close with 5.25" back spacing all around. I will be running 5lug 300z turbo front hubs, my own custom front brakes with wilwood 6 piston calipers, TTT rear suspension with 5lug Q45 hubs, R230 diff from 300zx TT, monster 28 spline hardened axles and cv's, my own coil-overs and Z-force wide flares. I have not yet sectioned the struts, my goal right now is to get her on the ground running she's been up in the air for 3 years now. Once running I will start on my other set of struts and section them, then swap them in. Will I be cutting the car, o-yea, Kills me but I must. The rear will have to be cut and patched up quite a bit, but the fronts look like I might just be able to get away without much cutting, just a light trim on the front edge of the front fender well should do it. And may be a light kiss of the grinder to the frame sheet metal where the front tires get close (just in front of the sway bat mount) I've attached a few mockup pics for your view pleasure.... Cross your fingers boys its time to **** or get off the pot so to speak, heheheheheh Please resize pics to 1024x800 (aprox.) (max. Thanks.

I used a hopper from harbor freight tools, it comes with a small hopper, and the blasting gun. I just used my trusty little 25gal, cambell hausfield 1HP air compressor I bought from Home Depot like 15 years ago. Id suggest putting the car up in the air as high as you can get it, mine was only like 16 inch's, and id suggest a respirator,full hood and swimming goggles. Kinda funny but its cheap and it works, now if I could have just figured out how to keep all the media out of my underwear it would have been much more comfortable to do, hehehehheeh Good luck if you decide to attempt it, it really wasn't that bad, Id really suggest having a buddy there to keep the hopper full, that will save you tons of time. I had my brother help me and man what a life saver that was, thanks bro........

I have the car approx. 16" off the ground, my brother and I took turns in blasting hell and finished it in 1 day, the biggest pain in the butt doing it yourself would be having to constantly get out from underneath the car, sweeping up all the media and filling the bead blaster bucket over and over. I seriously thought about just using a garbage can and a hopper for the bead blaster, hehehheh Still, if you have a buddie helping you it will only take day, if not, block your schedule out for 2 days

Thanks for the links guys, any one know how much a set of panasport 16x10 might cost?

Awesome, thanks for all your help bro... This gets me pointed in the right direction...

Cool link thanks for the suggestion. A bit spendie for me, but doable in time I guess, sure would love to find some a little less expensive, as would all of us. I know we can get mode width by going to 17'ings but I'm not digging 17'ings on a early Z, I think 16 is about as big as you should go. Anyone know if Kodiak wheel are still in business?

Sorry I didn't include a link to the media, but here ya go: http://cgi.ebay.com/50-lbs-Plasti-Grit-Plastic-Blasting-Media-20-30-grit-/180616830320?pt=Sanders_Sandblasters&hash=item2a0d9a1d70 They have a website too: http://balaurblastworks.com/site/services/abrasives/ However, it just points you to their Ebay store to buy it. I spent the 100 bucks to get the media after doing a bunch of research, and also deciding that ingesting glass and silica wouldn't be good for my health, heheheh I taped plastic to the frame and then to the floor to keep it all under control, then put a fan at the back of the car blowing towards the front, with a vacuum cleaner on the other end sucking all the dust in. Worked pretty dam good I must say. Also I bought a blasting hood from eastwood, 35 bucks, and wore swimming goggles and hearing protection to keep the media out of my eyes and ears. Id have to say it wasn't fun, but spending time on setting the area up well really payed off, I couldn't imagine doing it any other way. Well outside on a rotisserie would have been the smart thing to do, but don't have access to that stuff. Anyhow thanks for the kind words about the results, next its on to the fender wells....