Jump to content
HybridZ

snarpee

Members
  • Posts

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by snarpee

  1. Hey All,

     

    Just thought Id share a few pics of my chassis blasting project, and yes I'm stupid I did it in my garage on jack stands, heheheheeh

     

    Not to much fun, I think I lost 2 years off my life my ingesting nasty stuff but hey the bliss I will have when I'm done with my Z will add say 3 years to my life so in reality I think I'm up 1 year but I digress, heheheh

     

    The problem was that the car had (seriously) at least 75 to 100 pounds of undercoating, road crap, dead animal guts, etc... attached to it. I had no idea if there was rust. So I started with glass bead, it failed to be a reasonable media, then I added / mixed in 40 grit carbide media with the glass bead, it cut a little better but still very slow at removing undercoating. So then I bought some plastic media from EBAY and holly crap did it work great, no heat in to the sheet-metal, no warping, no metal removal, etc... awesome stuff in my experience.

     

    I live in California (silicon valley) so not salted roads here, so I decided on an etching primmer. scotch bright'ing in between coats, then Eastwood epoxy satin chassis black.

     

    Check it out...

    post-1617-093562400 1303181753_thumb.jpg

    post-1617-043004500 1303181769_thumb.jpg

    post-1617-047086800 1303181784_thumb.jpg

  2. Hey all,

     

    Im right in the middle of mounting my R230 from a TT, with Q45 CV's, its going in to my 71 240, and I'm using the technotoy tunning aluminum mustash bar.

     

    Do you know if the bushing blocks go in "FRONT" or "REAR" of the mustashbar (ie, do they go towards the front or rear of the car)???

     

    I'm hoping you guys might also be able to shed soem light on the prefered location of the output shafts too. The car will be lowered say 1 to 1.5 inches from stock, and would like to keep all the moving parts happy.

     

    Yes the obvious answer is to call Technotoy and ask them, but I'm looking for your guys install and racing experiance for tips on how to do this right.

     

    So, my question to you recap is as follows:

     

    1. Do the bushing blocks of the aluminum mushtach bar go towards the front or the rear of the car?

     

    2. What is the correct location of the output shafts of the R230 in relation to some fixed feature of the chassis that you can measure to (ie.. from the sub floor down to the middle of the utput shaft should be "X-inches", from the rear subfloor cross brace to the center of the output shaft should be "Y-inches")

     

    3. Last but not least, what angle is prefered from the dif to the rear strut housings, and what angle is prefered for the drive shaft (from tranny to diff)???

     

    Any help / dimensions / links to specific examples would be freaking awesome!!!!!!!!!

     

    Thanks guys

  3. Hey All,

     

    My reat stut housing are labeled "B" for the wheel bearing spacing tolerance, however I dont have the spacers...

     

    There in lies my question, might any of you boys have spacers from a B housing and a set od dial indicators to measure them and post the dimensions. That way I can make some on the lathe.

     

    Or better yet if you happen to have a extra set from "B" strut housings Id like to buy them.

     

    Hope to hear from you guys soon...

     

    Best Regards,

     

    Snarpee

  4. J.

     

    Yes, your are right. as the design evolved and my funny little ecentric wants changed I think the weight will be near the same, if not may be 1lb lighter (not with the brakes but with teh spring pearch and spring) when all is said and done.

     

    Hey it only took me a year to make that bracket, now I hav eto make the driver side.... (hopfully less than a year, ehehheheh, life gets in the way).

     

    Any how, I will keep you posted with my progress.

     

    And J. thanks for all your years of advice and monitering this form, you are an asset to this board.

  5. Hi there guys,

     

    I'm looking for a pair of "FACTORY" / "OEM" / "STOCK" front 4 lug wheel hubs for my 240Z, My car is a 1971, I thin all 240's came with the same hub so I dont care what year they are from but need them ASAP.

     

    Please let me know if you have a pair (hubs I mean, hehehhe) for sale, and the total price shipped to California Zip Code 94513 (norther CA).

     

    I will paypal you the cash and were as soon as I hear from you.

     

    And a shout out to the Admins for running this great site....

     

    Best Regards,

     

    Pete

  6. Baja,

     

    Yes, the rears will be single 1.5" piston calipers. I was told by a Wilwood engineer that the front 6 piston calipers Im using, and this rear 1.5" calipers together with their master cylinder will be the same exact parts they offer for their late model road racing mustang brake kits.

     

    My goal was to have a top notch roadracing brake system (but still affordiable, Im not buying 6,000$ Brembo calipers, hehehhe) that is still great for the street as well. Hope it works, hehehehhe

     

    Snarpee

  7. My front kit is itself a bit of a hybrid (hehehhe), Its a AZC front kit with 1.25" thick rotors, and the 6 piston wilwood calipers, but Im using 5 lug steel hubs from a 300z turbo. I refuse to use aluminum hubs and caliper brackets, way to scary for me bro, I have seen way to many aluminum caliper brackets bend / break give enough time (my car is a street 1st track 2nd car).

     

    I know race cars run hubs and brackets made from 7075 because of its fatige strength but its expensive, and even the top level race teams thro their cars away after a season or two.

     

    Anyhow, as for the rear, I will be working on a rear kit in a few months from now, that will use the new Wilwood rear brake calipers with a mechanical parking brake lever on the caliper, Wilwood rotors, and MMS billet steel rear 5 lug hubs, Im not sure yet about the rotor hats just yet (could use the Wilwoods, or make my own).

     

    I'll keep everyone up to date with my progress once I get started in afew months, right now, I have to finish the fronts, I still need to powder coat the brackets, and get some custom oil seals made.

     

    Best Regards,

     

    Snarpee

  8. Guy's,

     

    I just finished machining my new front brake claiper brackets, I thought Id share my pictures of them, there are pictures of them off and on the car.

     

    I made 3 of each bracket, I start with a 6 pound piece of steel stock, then machine 5 of the punds out of it to revel a sweet little caliper bracket.

     

    The cnc program started out by taking almost 2 hours to machine, but I now have it down to 50 mins.

  9. Hey there guys,

     

    Do any of you have a good source for rebuilt 300zx twin turbo half shafts and DV joints.

     

    I have a 71 240z that has a R200 in it, and would love to convert over to the 300zx TT shafts and teh MM steel 5 lug stubs ASAP.

     

    Also, any words of wisdom if once installed, I decide to go to a LSD diff, would I have to change teh shafts???

     

    Looking for any help / light you may be able to shed on this upgrade.

     

    Thanks All,

     

    Pete

  10. 240zchevyv8,

     

    Thanks for the vote!!!

     

    Im not sure where my new front brake kit will lead, who knows I may be able to bring a new front brake it to the market place for poeple to try. Would be very hard to compete on proce alone, because others have wholesale agrements in place with big national supply chanis, etc..., but you never know!!!

     

    Any how, thanks for the kind words, take care of yourself!!!

     

    Pete

  11. h4nsm0l3m4n vbmenu_register("postmenu_910999", true); ,

     

    I went 6 piston, because of my past experiance with them, and how they feel on the track.

     

    Yes, I'm using Solidworks as my design tool, and Cosmos for my FEA package.

     

    Yes, I have to re-engineer the factory Z car strut and hub, I just used calipers, mic's, and a height gauge for that, no fancy CMM stuff.

     

    Yes, I'm using all Wilwood stuff, I have past experiance with their brake parts, and are pretty good, not the best, but dam good for the money.

     

    Yes, I am planning on using Wilwood parts for the rear too, as soon as I get to that point, heheheh

     

    The 12" x 1.25 rotors were parts that I came in to, so my design started there, If I had to do it all over again, I would of certainly went with 11.5" or even 10.5" rotors, and much thinner than mine which are 1.25" thick. The reason, weight. My current 12" rotor weights about 12Lbs, the 10.5" rotors are only 8lbs. So my 12" rotors have added 4Lbs of unsprung weight to the car, but still less weight than the factory setup, so I'm dealing with it.

     

    I have toyed with selling my rotors and calipers and getting smaller rotors an six piston calipers that fit the thiner .81 rotors Wilwood offers, but I think I will loose much $$$ in that deal, so Im still contemplating that move.

     

    Any how, hope this helps in some way, and good luch on your project, might you have some pic's / screen shots / etc...???

     

    Pete

×
×
  • Create New...