Randall
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Posts posted by Randall
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Yeah I have a mount like that and the early style mounts that are cocked to the side
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Ok only question is do the turbo distributors mount directly to the front cover or is there another piece between the distributor and the cover like on the N/A models?
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How much?
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Dang I look on here all the time but I am always too late lol
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Looking for a turbo distributor and shaft for my megasquirt build. I believe it has to be the late model distributor 82-83 for this to work with megasquirt. If you just have the shaft i will buy it as the distributors can normally be found rebuilt online.
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did you every find anything? I am thinking of parting with my MS2 v3.0.
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Sorry computer posted twice.
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Got info back from the machine shop.
The head only needed 5 thousandths off so it wasn't bad at all. I also had them cc the head and it came out to 55 cc this seems off because stock is 53.5 cc
Can anyone explain why my chambers would be larger?
Would spark plug used effect this?
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Just thought i would add something interesting to this discussion...
Here is the output for the 280z VR sensor from the FSM:
Here is an excerpt from msextra manual:
As you can see in the msextra picture our vr sensors are wired like the bottom figure (red) and we also have the output like the bottom figure which means we should be using falling edge unless we swap the wires. I saw a few posts saying to use the rising edge which seems wrong according to the pictures.
I have mine wired as such but seem to get what is called timing jitter. The FSM states that a bad pickup coil could produce the opposite signal (dashed line in first image) which could explain this jitter but i do not have a scope to back this up.
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Well I have a knock light set up and it would go off after 4000 but I attributed that to noise since that is everyone else's experience with the knock sensor.
There was what felt like slight hesitation under boost but only in 3rd and 4th.
I think that it was probably do to the random advance spikes I would see when hitting the motor with a timing light.
Think I may reduce the gap even further to .25 and get a scope on my VR sensor to see what's happening.
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It's unlikely you bent a rod. Trigger angle of 0 would require next-cylinder timing, trigger angle of 60+ allows this-cylinder timing.
Trigger angle of 78 is what we use here, on dizzy type cars, and have no problem getting the timing set correctly. You need to set the trigger angle less than 20 or greater than 50 to get things running correctly, and you need to make sure your trigger angle and your this-cylinder/next-cylinder timing is set correctly. Other than that, it's cake.
Just curious are there any benefits of running this-cylinder/next-cylinder? Also do you use rising edge or falling edge triggered? Looking at the VR output in the FSM for the dizzy and reading the msextra manual it should be set falling edge if red distributor wire is used as tach input and green is grounded.
I was using a trigger angle of 0 and the timing was spot on but if i revved the motor the timing would jump around and fall bellow the commanded timing with an occasional jump above the commanded timing.
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You shouldn't use 20 degree trigger angle. Try 60.
I'm not using a 20 degree trigger angle. I used a 20 degree fixed timing since i don't have a dial back light.
I am using a 0 degree trigger angle though. Couldn't get it to run with a 60 degree trigger angle and correct timing.
That is characteristic detonation damage. Cylinder 5 runs the hottest in a stock unmodified head, and will detonate first most of the time.
Running an engine short on coolant will readily increase the chances of detonation even with stock timing. Get that head checked for warp before you put it back on, it only takes once to warp an aluminum L6 head, although you may get a pass on it.
Yeah I plan on taking it to my machine shop again just to have it checked out. Although when removing the nuts off the ARP studs most felt like they had pretty close to the same resistance so it probably didn't get that hot but would rather not take any chances.
I would also close the 0.35 spark plug gap to 0.28
I am using BPR7ES with a gap of .30
Also what are the odds that I bent a rod from the coolant in cylinder 5? It seemed to be running fine and revved fine other than the misfire at idle.
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I don't believe so. I was having issues with noise on the tach line but I think I fixed those because I had the shielding wired wrong. If i set the timing to fixed 20 degrees and hit it with a timing light it showed 20 but as the revs went up it seemed to fall below 20 degrees and become a little jittery with a random spike above 20 every now and then. I didnt get to check if the shielded wiring fix helped because the headgasket let go.
Im using the old 75-76 VR distributor but the later zx distributors seem to have a better VR setup. I have been reading up on the VR signal settings and noise and everyone says to use rising edge but looking at the waveform output from the FSM and the msextra manual it should be set to falling edge which is what i have been using but my symptoms seem to follow that of having the wrong edge trigger.
thinking about getting one of these: http://brickems.com/brickrpm/
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Well just put about 400 miles on the motor and after pushing it pretty hard one evening next start up cranked then immediately stopped as if there was too much timing but eventually turned over and started up. I then noticed that my idle vacuum was a little low around 17.8 to 18.3 inches where it has been at about 20 or so. It drove fine so i did not think much about it. Today I went to start it up and same thing but eventually starts i drive it around and as im pulling into my driveway i realize that my temp gauge is reading 215 in megasquirt. The radiator was about a gallon short of fluid so the temp could have been hotter.
So i do a compression test:
1. 145
2. 134
3. 134
4. 139
5. 138
6. 141
I then take it for a spin and it starts misfiring at low RPMs so i start pulling plug wires to find number 5 the culprit.
I then pull number five spark plug to find it drenched in water.
So i pull the head and to find this:
Cylinder 5 was blown at the water jacket and all other cylinders except number 3 looked like they where close.
Could this be detonation? (no signs of detonation on plugs or piston tops). Should i be tightening the ARP head studs tighter than 60 ft lbs? This is also a standard fel-pro gasket.
Here are my AFR targets:
Here is my timing map:
This is at 10 lbs non-intercooled .040 over pistons and "A" cam on stock P90.
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I know this is an old thread but I have been playing around with my tune and I was curious what egt's you where shooting for?
I have heard under 1600 degrees F. Mine with my current tune hits a peak of about 1500 F at 10 psi 12:1 afr without an intercooler. Timing is about 25 degrees.
At first my AFRs were about 11.7 and i think I was having rich misfires. My knocksense light was going off too but I think its just noise as it only goes off above 4000 rpms.
Also my EGT's are about 800 at idle and 10-1200 at cruise.
My sensor is in the stock manifold between the turbo flange and the exhaust port flange.
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I have an open element GM MAT sensor installed in the location of the cold start injector. My intake temps change very quickly with throttle changes, so I can't see how there could be any heat soak issues with this sensor, or location.
Pre intercooler, my intake temps always stayed above 100*F, and would heat up from there due to heat created from compressing the air. After adding my intercooler, which seems to be quite effecient, my intake temps regularly drop down to the low 90's high 80's with quick blips of the throttle, a littel lower if I stay into the pedal a little longer. Many times I get very close to ambient.
Ahh! Very good information that's exactly what I was looking for. I was wondering if the compressor was hot enough at idle to heat the air to 100. Thanks for the information.
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I just recently installed a heat shield so that would not be the case in my situation as the heat shield protects the manifold from radiant heat.
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Yeah I understand that I just looked up the temp rating for nylon and its about 200 degree F working condition.
I would not think the manifold would ever reach that high of a temp considering the motor is usually around 200 max.
I really want to try to insulate with the nylon so that I do not have to re-wire and have a fitting welded in my j-pipe.
If this works fine if not I will resort to installing in the j-pipe right before the throttle body and just plug the hole in the manifold.
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Yeah but whether it is 40 degrees outside or 70 degrees the min temp I see once warmed up is 100. Before the manifold gets hot from heat soak I can see the temp register a few degrees above ambient and when I crack the throttle it immediately drops to ambient.
So although the heatshield did help some my minimum temp when fully warmed up is still off from the heat soak.
I am going to buy a 1/2 mpt x 3/8 fpt reducer made of nylon and use it to separate the sensor from the manifold. Ill report back any changes.
Btw when it is reading 100 degrees my charge pipes are super cold to the touch. Kinda hard to believe that the air would go from 40 or 70 degrees to 100 just by entering the manifold. The manifold even when hot should not transfer that much heat to the incoming charge.
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well put the heat shield on and i would have to say that there was very little change. temp was still reading a minimum of about 100 degrees with 70 ambient. jw if its possible that the heat transfer from the turbine to the compressor could possibly heat the air that much.
I was thinking about installing a 1/2 MPT to 3/8 FPT nylon reducer where the air temp sensor is to isolate it from the intake manifold using the nylon reducer.
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Yeah, I've got a blanket on my turbo, wrapped manifold, and wrapped downpipe. I'm hoping that will be enough.
[img=http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/photobucket-11729-1358632183256.jpg]
Won't know til Spring (hopefully) though...
I have been trying to fit a heat shield from the N/A manifold but I really like the blankets. Did you modify your blanket to fit the stock wastegate or did you plumb a hole? If so where did you get it?
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Just got my t3/04e running without an intercooler.
With 10lbs of boost only taking it to 4500 I am seeing 145 degrees on a 50 degree day.
Filter is mounted in front of the radiator and IAT sensor is in the cold start location
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alright well i added a 47uF 35v cap to the H1 position and im getting a constant battV in the data log.
no only problem is very rarely ill see a rpm spike all the way to 6000 rpm...
Also i built a manual boost controller using about 12 dollars worth of parts and tested out 10lbs of boost.
Do any of ya'll with the vr sensor have random rpm spikes? Also what would be the maximum amount of boost I could run with a hybrid turbo and no intercooler?
At 10lbs the datalog showed a MAT of 146 degrees at 4500 RPM
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Alright well i added a 47uF 35v cap to the H1 position and im getting a constant battV in the data log.
Now only problem is very rarely ill see a rpm spike all the way to 6000 rpm...
![http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/photobucket-11729-1358632183256.jpg]](http://i524.photobucket.com/albums/cc327/twofortyz/photobucket-11729-1358632183256.jpg%5D){kind=link}
Turbo Distributor and Shaft
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Also I cannot send you a private message it said your inbox was full.