Randall
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Posts posted by Randall
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well got all the studs out and going to be purchasing new ones...
rayaapp2 suggested using plain ss bolts. What are the stock bolts? Most SS bolts are in the 70,000 strength area where studs are usually in the 120,000 to 150,000.
What is the final consensus on this? Go with the Stainless Steel or go with a high strength steel stud.
Not trying to say SS wont work just wondering why that choice?
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Yeah im bringing this one back up from the dead...
So im building up a turbo motor shooting for 350 whp and this car will mainly be driven on the street and will see occasional 1/4 fun :0 and possibly some autocross if i get around to doing some brake upgrades.
I am going to be using a hybrid clutch from south bend clutch its a stage 2 240mm using the 350z pressure plate and organic on one side of the disc and feramic on the flywheel side.
I bought a stock flywheel would it be worth the money to have it lightened to 17 lbs or so or should i not worry about it and just leave it the stock weight?
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Now for my 76' 280z Turbo:
List of Purchased or Installed Items...
Powertrain/Drivetrain:
F54 block Dished ITM Pistons .040"
Turbo oil pan and return and pickup tubes
P90 Head rebuilt
N/A "A" Cam installed
Stock T3 rebuilt with T04E '50' trim Compressor housing installed
Supra 440cc Injectors
Pallnet Fuel Rail
Walbro 255 LPH Pump
Stock FPR
Megasquirt 2
Felpro Headgasket with ARP Head Studs
240sx 5 Speed w/ Short Shifter
Stock Turbo Flywheel
South Bend Clutch Stage 2 (400 RWTQ)
Open R200 3.54's
Suspension:
Tokico Lowering Springs
Kyb Struts
Suspension Techniques 1" Front Sway Bar
Tires/Wheels:
225/50 r15's on Konig Rewinds
Body:
Removed heavy stock bumpers
240z Bumper Front
Shaved Rear
MSA Type 1 Air Dam Fiberglass
Fiberglass BRE Style Rear Spoiler
Not yet decided on or purchased...
Treadstone TR8 Intercooler
Champion Aluminum Radiator
Electric Fans for Radiator (Ford Taurus?)
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Well wanted to post up some pics of my 77' 280z (mostly stock daily driver) and post the ongoing turbo project into my 76' 280z.
Here are some pics of the 77' that I just purchased. Had to completely go through the brakes and clean out the fuel system and tank.
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Well my machinist was really busy when I picked up my motor so I decided not to bother him just took a bunch of pictures instead...
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I just heated some tie rods out. Amazing what just 60 seconds of a torch can do. I whacked for about an hour, then decided since I was going to reuse the tie rods, just heat'em up. Heated on side and it came off with two good whacks. Did the other side under 5 minutes... Then had a beer to lament over the hour wasted.
Haha nice...
Just curious what gaskets did everyone go with on the spacers. I had previously ordered a 20$ MSA Nissan exhaust/turbo gasket for my build but did not expect needing a spacer so when i ordered the spacer and lock nuts they had a gasket for 8$ dollars so i ordered one. There cheap gasket is thin and uses a flare to make a seal where as the Nissan is thick and looks like it will crush to make the seal.
Any opinions? should i shell out another 20$ for a 2nd Nissan gasket? Have someone weld the spacer on? or stick with the cheap and expensive gasket setup?
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GM heat valve lubricant liberally applied, and propane torch to heat the manifold.
double nut the studs and extract.
You will want to replace these studs with a high quality fastener. Too soft and they will stretch, too hard and they will snap.
Im an idiot and replace my exhaust fasteners with stainless. I never seem to have any issues with them seizing, stretching, or breaking though. The RB25 exhaust studs are the only ones I ever have issues with these days because I keep using Nissan studs. My L series engines even the turbos have not given me any problems with stainless. I go to the local hardware supply and purchase stainless bolts and machine the heads off.
Awesome very good to know. I was going to ask what stud everyone went with but good to know i can just go buy a long grade 8 stainless bolt and cut to length. I ordered locknuts from ATPturbo so hopefully everything will work out...
Btw i tried to double nut the studs with just penetrating oil with no dice...looks like im going to have to bring out the heat
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The pistons where out of a motor with 120,000 miles then I rebuilt it and put triple webers on it... Then put a few miles on them and now I've decided to go turbo so no need for them. I will ask my machinest his opinion on their condition when I pick up my block
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I just pulled the stock flat tops out of my f54 block and put in overbore turbo pistons should get them back from the shop before the end of the week.
Rings probably have about 5-10,000 miles on them if that.
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Definitely will help im about to go through this. Should be getting my stock turbo back with a T04e 50 trim on the compressor side. Did not know i would need a spacer until i started doing some research. What size spacer are you using and where did you get it from?
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I just went to eBay for mine when I didn't hear back from AZC.
Spent like 50 bucks for the spacer and the longer bolts, shipped. Works perfect.
Just search 240sx throttle body spacer.
My next ordeal is trying to fill the small gap still open at the top of the intake manifold opening (the L-series manifold opening is a tear drop shape, so the top left corner is just barely peeking through)
Im having the same ordeal. Everyone says to just slap on a 240sx throttle body when its not that easy. The tear drop shape is giving me problems too... Dont know if i should find someone to weld aluminum so it can be filled or what?
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So what would be the best way to set up a PCV on an L28et setup without the original stock emissions/throttle body on the intake manifold?
Im guessing easiest would be to hook the stock PCV valve up like normal to the side of the block and run the valve cover to a spot between the air filter and the turbo compressor...
Or would it be easier to just ditch the PCV valve and run the exit on the side of the block to an exhaust evacuation and again run the valve cover to a spot between the air filter and the turbo compressor...
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"Wish i could put them on my 77 because that car with stock Fuel Injection feels soooooooo slow compared to the triple webers."
I thought the same thing. They make the right noises... But my dyno checks and 1/4 mile times proved otherwise.
You just don't bolt them on and surpass what the stock EFI makes. (That is with the recommended jetting from redline or Mikuni)
I've posted that before, I've seen more than one 80 HP L28 with Triples...
Yeah feels slow and actually being slow can be deceiving. My 76 also had weight and exhaust flow advantages that also probably make a difference (including 6 to 1 headers and 2.5 inch exhaust and heavy 280z bumpers removed) I feel the webers were tuned well besides the air correctors but i could have been wrong.
Its probably just the awesome throttle response and noise from the webers that made me feel like it was faster when comparing it to a boring stock quiet FI car.
BTW my webers where tuned to this when i got the car
Chokes - 32
Main - 130
Emulsion - F11
Idle Jet - 50F6
i swapped the idle jet out to a 60f9 i believe (would have to look) because idle was pretty rich.
Air Correctors are still the stock 210 that usually come with webers which seemed to lean the car out above about 4500-5000
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I did just that and the distance between the inlet and outlet was 28.25" apart, so very close, and may be an option to consider for others.
I ended up going with a different fmic though, 12x20x3 core (27" total width) with the traditional endtanks like the one you posted and I'm just using 90* couplers to bring the openings through the radiator support openings like a lot of people do.
When you say 28.25 you are talking about the treadstone? On the website it says 28 and should fit perfect with 90* couplers (even if it is 28.25). Thanks for your input
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Do any of you guys that have already done FMIC installs happen to have the dimensions of the rad support, in particular the distance between the two openings everyone passed their piping through?
Im wondering if any of these ebay intercoolers with endtanks in this style:
happen to correspond with those openings to avoid using 90* couplers
i was wondering the same thing but i think im just going to spend my money on the treadstone tr8
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=29&cat_key=63&prodname=TR8+Intercooler++500HP
the intercooler you posted looks like it would be close. The openings in the car on the inside edges are about 28.5 inches apart. May have to contact the manufacturer and see what the specs on those are.
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I loved my tripple webers. Had them on my 76 but now im going turbo so they are sitting in the garage. Really don't want to sell them but i need the cash to finish my turbo build. Wish i could put them on my 77 because that car with stock Fuel Injection feels soooooooo slow compared to the triple webers.
I will post some pics and a video below. They usually go for 1200 to 1500 for the full kit new. Just PM me an offer if you are interested.
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I just ordered some turbo ITM pistons .040 over for my turbo build. Did some research and these come with chrome top rings and cast for the bottom. I have heard that chrome rings are not the rings of choice from one of my friends who used to build motors although his motors were always SBC and Fords N/A. The machine shop that will be boring the block for me says that i should stick with the chrome rings since i will be going turbo ( he does not recommend them otherwise).
Just wondering if anyone has any input on this?
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Just curious i have a stage 2 excedy clutch on a 225mm flywheel and i dont believe it is going to be able to hold up to the 300-350 horsepower that i will putting down. What would you guys recommend for a good street clutch setup thats not too expensive?
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What cam are you running? I have been running my flat top P90 turbo for 5 years now with great results on the stock ZXT EFI. Granted, not much is stock accept for the bottom end, but I think cam selection for the higher comp makes a difference. I have a mild Delta Cams turbo regrind. If you don't have it already, you may want to consider at least the 'A' cam.
Aaron
Would you suggest using a "C" cam out of a 260z e88 head cause my p90 came back from the shop with a crack around the dowel for the timing chain gear. How much does Delta Cams charge to regrind a cam?
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This is how the wiring is stock on my 77z i tore the harness apart because i bypassed the first 80 amp fuse and my alternator had a current surge that almost burned my hole wiring harness apart
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Just thought I would let you know but the way you have it wired will cause a fire if your alternator craps out ( this is from experience on a 77 280z )
the red and white wire that goes into the 80 amp fuse comes from the alternator + after it passes through this fuse (this fuse protects incase of over current from alternator) after going through this fuse it does 4 things... it supplies the other 3 fuses with power and it charges the battery. the red and white cables on the other 3 fuses supply power to things such as ignition, headlights etc. the last red and white wire comes straight from the alternator. if you have the original red and white and another 4 gauge wire connected to the battery you could have a fire hazard
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not sure if you figured out the problem but i think the lower connector on the plastic "T" fitting tells the alternator to charge at idle and low revs so it may not be getting a good connection. Your sense wire ( top of the "T") may have a bad connection also. As this tells the alternator how much it needs to charge. Dont know for sure but from the research i have gathered to fix my problem that sounds like a good place to start
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well got the car running great and i had done the 280zx alternator swap/mod
problem...
i was driving the car and got stuck in traffic the temp gauge started to climb to a little bit past halfway but continued to run and idle fine. I then took a right and gave it some gas in first.
next thing i know i hear a pop and the car dies and smoke comes in by the fuse box. i stop the car and start to see smoke out the hood so i pop the hood to see the wiring harness on fire. I grabbed my bottle of water and a wrench and put out the fire and pulled the positive battery terminal.
I just finished rewiring a small section of the harness
this includes:
ground to the side of the block all alternator connections(wired the S-yellow wire straight to battery terminal to get a good sense) and power wire that splits into 3 coming off of the alternator for charging.
I did not have a fusible link for the alternator which is why i had the fire (lesson learned the hard way). So everything is wired back up and i have a fusible link in place. So i start the car and start trouble shooting.
Voltage at the battery is a steady 14.00 volts.
The fusible link for the alternator starts getting really hot so i shut the car off (this is why i had a straight wire in the first place).
What would be causing the fusible link to get hot? Why would there have been so much current to start a fire in the first place?
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ok so i got the car to run decently (revs past 2000-3000 rpms)
what i did:
I removed engine bay filter
sprayed compressed air through the fuel rail/return line
disconnected fuel pump and sprayed air through supply line
connected everything with a fuel pressure gauge between filter and fuel rail
Pressure at idle and revving is 29 psi
I then removed the vacuum line to the FPR and my fuel pressure went to 38
i took it for a spin and 1st gear revs fine to about 5000 or so then feels like it looses some get up
2nd gear revs a little slower and 3rd is even slower than 2nd.
not sure how a stock 280z drives but my 280z with the tripple webers seems to have a little more pickup especially on top end
Is the FPR bad?
What other things should i look at?
BTW i dont think this car has a CHTS
My 77' 280z and 76' Turbo Project
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
well i pretty much have everything to install the motor just received my clutch, turbo, and block last week and finished painting the valve cover, pan, head, intake manifold, and block. Just need to either modify the stock T3 wastegate actuator for the T04E or buy a bracket and new actuator...still trying to decide
Eye Candy!!!!
You can see on the disc that one side is organic and the other feramic material.