Paz8
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Posts posted by Paz8
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If the TV cable is not connected at the engine end but pulled out "has tension on the cable" this would increase all the fluid pressures in the trans and may be the problem, disconnect the tv cable at the trans if it's connected. As mentioned you will kill that trans without a properly adj. TV cable when running on the street.
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The T-5's used in the later model Mustangs and Camaros are NOT the same as that 280ZX trans, The later T-5's are known as World Class T-5's and are slighty stronger. As mentioned, they are not hard to find.
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From the casting numbers it is a 1969, 350 c.i. block. You need to find out why someone trashed it, pull the oil pan and look at the crank/rods for broken parts. Spray everything down with WD 40 and let it set for a day, spray the tops of the pistons also. The pistons are probably "frozen" in the cylinders, the steel rings rust into the bores. keep soaking the tops of the pistons with WD to loosen the rust.
Once apart you can see is it is usable or not, good luck, remember "no one ever said it was easy"
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I wouldn't run that engine anymore, all that metal is now in the filter or at the bottom of the oil pan, take the oil pan plug out and look at the inside end for metal shavings or dust. If your intended use for the car is for street driving install a PVC valve or you will be fixing oil leaks for ever. Check the push rod on that bad lifter to make shure it's not bent. Your right about the bad luck, that sucks.
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If you think that it is the drive shaft balance look for a local place that performs TRUCK drive line repairs, they can build drive shafts and balance them.
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The only way to know for sure is to pull the trans pan off and look at the wiring. Or apply 12 volts with a fuse (10 amps is plenty) to the terminals one at a time and drive the car to see if the clutch locks up in overdrive.
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I'm about 3 hours east, too far away to go junk yard hunting.
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Yah your right, Charlie Osborne is the owner, right?
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A place called Jed Findings has replacement floor boards and floor supports, used them in my 83 ZX, not cheap but worth every cent.
Where in Pa do ya live, I know of a few ZX's in junk yards around here.
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I installed the lower chin pan under the rad to the front X member, run an upper fan shroud only and chevy declutching blade on the water pump, junk yard $20 camaro rad. and the Zx overflow tank. With a 160 deg thermostat the temp gauge stays at about 170 deg, been street driving the car for about 8 months now with no problems.
I know some people have opinions on engine driven fans stealing HP but here is the way I look at it. If the fan blade uses 5 horsepower and the electric cooling fans use 30 amps from the battery your charging system needs to put back 30 amps in the battery, this means more drag on the engine from the alternator, see, no free HP with electric fans. I like electric fans for the way they cool down the engine when the car in shut off and sitting.
Don't forget coolant mixture should be 40/60 anti freeze/ water, no more than 50/50 mix.
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If that # is stamped on the block in front of the right cylinder head it is NOT a casting Number it's an ID serial number. I couldn't find a VH # but all other V # are 350 truck engines from the late 60's earily 70's. I could be wrong, not 100% sure.
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Read my post, post #7, I described the Camaro rad that you need and how to mount it, V8 with STANDARD COOLING, 25 inches across.
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The Camaro rad. from 1984 to 86, with standard cooling, the heavy duty rad is too wide to fit. The one you want is about 25 inches wide, aluminum with plastic side tanks. Get the upper fan shroud and rubber mounts (4, 2 upper 2 lower). The fan shroud holds the upper rubber mounts and the top of the rad in the car, if you have time it can be adapted to work in the Z car and you can figure out lower rad mounts mounted on the frame rails, you need to mount the rad with the 4 rubber mounts or it will shake apart if mounted solid in the car. With the engine in the set back position I run a stock camaro engine driven declutching fan blade and have no cooling problems at all, this is a street car, I'd go with the elect. fan for a drag car. Hope this helps.
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This topic has been gone over again and again, read Mike's post carefully, it is the way it is, there are NO magic solutions, If you mix and match parts for the swap you'll end up spending more in the long run on parts that won't fit, alot of wasted time also.
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It would be cheaper and easier to build a 400 cube engine with a stroked 351W block, alumium SBF heads, etc., lighter also. I too miss the ford big blocks, I put a 390 in a 56 ford vicky, my first ride. The dual quad 427's are to me the best big block ford ever built.
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I think that ford only built 351 C's from 1970 to 1974, chances of finding one are slim, the magic in these engines was the heads with very large valves, and NO the heads won't fit a 351W.
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351 windsor engine block casting numbers 1971-74, D2AE-BA 6015. 1975-84, D4AE-DA. The 351W looks like a 302. Many trucks had a different 351 called a 351M, stay away from the M motors. Hope that helps some.
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Almost every ZX with T tops I have found in the junk yards had good glass and weather stripping. Picked up door weather strip in good condition for 5 bucks, both doors.
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I gave you the simple way to do this that works, your over thinking this thing and making it hard, it doesn't need to be.
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The JTR mounts for a ZX are adjustable front to rear and left to right with the engine and trans in the car, will save a lot of time trying to figure things out. The ZX mounts are NOT the same as Z car mounts. My converson has the engine as far back as possible, with a carb, alumin. intake and 14 in air filter the stock hood still closes. Removing one brace on the hood latch is alot easier than cutting up the hood. With the engine moved back you also have more room to run a stock chevy declutching fan blade and not have to mess with electric fans. My car handles great and is alot of fun to drive, The first time you punch that gas pedal and light up the tires you'll be glade for the little bit of extra weight shoved to the rear of the car.
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If you do not need to pass emission testing you can chuck the canister. Cut the vent line at the back of the car, it needs to be cut so it is higher than the fuel tank and after it runs up the fuel filler tube, bend the line so the open end points to the rear of the car. This needs to be done correctly or the vent will act like a fuel over flow if you fill the gas tank full.
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I have the Sandersons and they are well made, I used the high temp silicon they recommend and have had Zero problems. You need to go over the mounting bolts after the engine has been up to temperature. I checked the bolts a couple of times after a few hundrend miles and could not find anything loose.
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Power windows are on a circuit breaker NOT a fuse, look for a breaker near the fuse panel, my 83 zx had a bad breaker for the windows, it was mounted in a opening under the passenger side kick panel.
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Your reinventing the wheel here, JTR makes adjustable mounts for the ZX which are great, their shorty headers clear a power rack steering setup.
Motor offset 350 chevy
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
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About 3/4 of an inch is about right, the rear center section is also off set that much.