eugene

Thanks, Daniel! No longer needed.

Looking to replace my fuel/amp gauge in my 75 280z with a fuel/volts gauge from the later 280z. Let me know if you can help me out. Thanks

Got my speedo and tach just like I wanted and when I was expecting them. Steven is a great guy for doing this and very easy to work with. Thanks again!

Interested in the 4" dual gauge and 4" quad gauge kit, GR4-DUAL-GPSQKIT-ST-03T sending you a pm now

Yeah, it seems thats the way to go. I did it at work real quick one day before I went home. This time I'll do it at home and be more careful. Might even try and check torque this time. I'll post back with my results, hopefully soon. Thanks for the tip.

Thanks, I guess I'm gonna try to make it work with 1 spring plate per side. I didn't like how tight it was with the 6 clutches, but all I did was measure the clutches and spacers, no testing or shimming was done. I don't know if it was binding due to incorrect thickness which caused breakage, or if incorrect install caused breakage and resulted in binding. It was probably the latter! Thanks for the link.

I broke two adjacent ears off of one of my spring plates installing extra clutches. So far I haven't been able to source a replacement part. Any thoughts on just using one spring plate per side. I plan to make the overall clutch stack measurement match with shims/extra clutches. I think the progressive action of the diff should be affected, but imagine having the same breakaway would result in similar driveability. Any good reason not to try this? I still have the original 2 clutches and spacers, along with the 6 replacement clutches sold by savage42. I am wondering how much the spring compresses. I imagine the stack should be a small amount thinner

I have struck out everywhere I've looked. I broke the ears off of one spring plate while assembling. This piece looks just like a drive plate, but is conical and goes at the outside of each clutch stack. NLA from Nissan and no luck finding aftermarket.

this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/68484-blocked-off-the-lower-half-of-my-grill/

Looking for a cheap front crossmember, can be rusted or damaged, needs to be cheap. Will need to ship to 30087. Thanks, -Jason

Can I assume you still have some left. If so, I want one.

I wonder if this has been done before; I've never seen it. All of the roll cages I've seen have seemed to be a compromise between structural integrity and interior comfort/appearance. Due to the fact that they can be viewed as an independent structure that is built within the confines of the cabin. For safety reasons I would like a cage in my 280, but since it will be a daily driver, I really don't want it restricting interior space. I was wondering if I could construct a cage that was completely integral with the body; for instance, the main hoops would actually be completely welded to the pillars, the roof, the firewall, and the frame rails. All efforts would be aimed at finding a sound design that would transfer loads properly, without invading cabin space by more than the diameter of the tubing. Basically you would be building an inner support structure for the existing body, which would seem to make it stronger than a support structure that is mostly within the body. But the main reason for this idea is that most of the cage could be out of view, and you could go so far as to build a custom interior that covered most of it up. There's still the problem of side impact support impeding entry and exit, I also have no idea if this kind of design would be approved for different racing events, but I'm curious if it's been done before. I know it would be A LOT more labor intensive, but seems like it would be worth it in the end!

The stock motor just doesn't do it for me: 75 280 JTR conversion: 91 stock 350, holley street avenger intake, 600 vac sec., block huggers, 2 1/4s into single 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust 700r4(2,000 stall locking converter), 3.54 open r200 Don't get me wrong, I'm somewhat pleased with the increase in power, and it is a good daily driver, very quiet with the resonator in the tunnel. However, it kills me to know that there is so much more available power, and I'd like to extract some of that power without spending too much money. My question: I figure it is about 250 hp right now. Can I get 350hp or more with a cam change and maintain good daily driveability? I need more info on the heads (casting # 14102193) and block (casting # 10054727, K0219UKA) Mortec says 350 heads 1.94 / 1.50 valves, but no info on flow or chamber size. The motor is stock, so I am guessing pretty low compression ratio. I would like a good launch and strong power band from 2K to 6K . Since I have a decent flowing intake, exhaust combo, I figure the only remaining variable for a cam choice to complement my intention is the head info. If I can get 350 hp with just a cam change, I'd be really happy. If I have to change heads I'll just have to wait on it. I could probably swing some stamped roller rockers too. Does anybody have more info on these heads or know where I can find it? All I want is 100 hp, that's not too much to ask, is it?

Thanks for the tips! Any recommendations on good books for tuning and troubleshooting Holleys? I work on fuel injected vehicles every day, carburetors are new to me. I think you may be onto something with the transfer slot because the car runs way too rich. I can't get it below 2% CO at idle or it dies returning to idle after acceleration. I need an information resource to help me start over with it and select jet size, power valve, etc. to get this thing running efficiently. I may go EFI someday but the novelty of working with a carburetor hasn't worn off yet, and it's so damn easy to work on that any changes would be quick and easy, I just need a guide to help me troubleshoot. I've found a lot of books and manuals, I guess I just want to know which ones have been helpful with other people.

I'm having trouble timing my engine: late model 350 w/ stock cam, holley 600 vac sec, HEI w/ adjustable vac adv How much vaccuum should my ported signal have at idle? Shouldn't it be little or none? Mine has 9 in. at idle and 22 in. on accel. This is causing extreme timing advance at idle(14 deg. above initial timing). The only way to get a decent timing curve is to retard the initial timing. Is this a carb problem or a vac adv diaphragm problem? It's a new Accel adjustable vac adv unit. I don't get any change in the advance at idle after adjusting the diaphragm back. Also, I need a good Holley tuning book. I bought one by Dave Emanuel that ended up being more of a history lesson. I need one that's heavy on the tuning and troubleshooting. Any recommendations?

Aaron, are you sure that is not under factory warranty? I believe exhaust is 5yr/60K. If you're close to that and cry enough the dealer can probably do a Goodwill warranty. Just a thought. We have replaced a lot of those manifolds at my dealer in Atlanta. If you remove it, soak it real, real good. The studs for the downpipe are bad about breaking.

I think I have a similar problem. I intended to break in my motor finally, and didn't even get all the fluids topped off before my plug wires started melting. #'s 4,6,3,5 took the most abuse. I'm pulling everything back apart to work on clearance issues, driveline angles, etc. This is what I'm wondering: I'm using a later model 350 longblock, circa '91 with an early style edelbrock intake. I had to enlarge the two center bolt holes on each side of the intake to account for the different angle of entry for these four bolts. While no external vaccuum leaks were detected, I now wonder (after reading this post) if I have an internal leak. It looks like the intake should work. Has anyone here used this combination? Did I screw myself again by being a cheap bastard? It'll be a while before I'm in a position to fire it up again and do diagnostics, should I just go ahead and buy the right intake?

Just about finished with my exhaust, 2 1/4" mandrel bends into single 3" turbo muffler. Looks like the best I can get is 4" ground clearance where the 3" tube goes under the dif. Is this going to be enough or am I going to bottom out all over the place?

I've used the search function and can't find the answer here. The JTR book shows a cable being used to limit diff movement. As I went to install a cable, I found that the only way to run the cable would be between the bottom of the diff and the top of the mount, sqeezing it between the mount and the diff. The picture in my book (7th ed. page 6-2) shows the cable running perpendicular to the crossmember, so it must be routed this way. Has anyone done the cable thing and can they explain better how to install it? Thanks!

Oh yeah, I forgot to ask about ceramic coating. What should that cost for a complete exhaust system. It seems like a waste to spend so much time building it just to watch it rust away! I'm doing a budget build but a few hundred dollars seems doable. Probably more like several hundred though, right?

But welded, huh? I have a Lincoln wire feed welder with some flux core wire. It makes good welds with some cleanup but I've never tried to weld something thin like exhaust tubes. Do you think this welder might work out or do I definitely need a MIG or TIG setup? If so I'll have to decide whether to have it done or spring for the MIG conversion kit (always looking for a good excuse to buy tools!!)

Finally, after many months I got my 350/700r4 bolted up and it started on the first turn! Got everything wired and plumbed, just need driveshaft and exhaust and I'll be running. I've got two questions: 1: A friend told me to rev the motor at 2,000 r.p.m. for about twenty minutes to break in the new cam (stock cam, hyd. lifters, late model 350 with one piece rear seal) Should I do this? So far I've only started it three times and ran it less than 30 sec. each time. Everything is assembly lubed and the oil pump is primed. 2: Going to try to make my own exhaust a la pparaska's web page. I can't tell from the pictures if the tubes are butt welded together or if they are joined and then welded. Which would be the best way? Thanks to everyone for all your help, this forum sure made the job easy!!!

I decided to do a budget build on my TBI 350 chevy engine and bought standard rings and bearings. All components are original, no work done to engine before. I cleaned the block, removed the small ridge with a reamer, and had it hot tanked. I then honed the cylinders with a well oiled fine grit stone-hone. After checking clearances and successfully installing the crank, I am having great difficulty installing the pistons. It takes a tremendous amount of force to install them. The ring clearance is correct(.002 in.), the ring end gap is correct (.015 in.), the con-rod bearing clearance is correct (.002 in.). I am reusing the stock pistons in the same location and piston to cylinder clearance is okay (.002 in.). The pistons start to go in easily but for some reason bind once all the rings are in. The block is hospital clean and I am using oil when attempting to install pistons. Any ideas what could be binding? I know the pistons are supposed to fit tight, but you shouldn't have to pound on them to get them in, should you? I managed to get two pistons in, and found it very difficult to turn the engine around. After a third piston is installed, the engine WILL NOT TURN. The rods wiggle back and forth on the crank so I suspect something is binding in the cylinder. Am I way off on the specs, I'm using a HAYNES manual.

I guess I'll keep toying around with it. Hopefully I'll have it running in a month or so and will let everyone know if it works.

Pursuing an idea regarding temperature senders and would like opinions. Especially interested in PParaska's opinion after looking at his website. I took resistance measurements of both Datsun and Chevy temp sending units from 120 to 200 degrees. They are both Negative coeficient (As temp increases, resistance decreases); however, the resistance decreases at different rates. Unfortunately, the chevy sending unit has higher resistance than the datsun unit, so simply adding a resistor would not work. But, by adding a resistor in parallel, the circuit resistance could be lowered. I worked some numbers and found that, theoretically, if a 62 ohm resistor is added in parallel to the sending unit circuit using the stock chevy sending unit(78 truck 350), then the gauge should be extremely accurate from about 180 to 190 deg. F. and right on the money at 185. Due to the different rate of change in the chevy sending unit, the gauge would read hotter than actual temp at 190 and above, and lower than actual temp at 180 and below, which is I believe not bad since the gauge would be accurate where it counts and at the same time would catch your attention quicker if things started to heat up. The basic idea is that you want to drop the resistance in a series circuit. By adding a resistor in parallel you split the amperage and effectively lower the total circuit resistance. Another benefit of this could be that resistors could be easily used to tune your gauge: Accurate temp. measurements could be taken with a known good piece of equipment like an infared pyrometer, and the correct resistor could be selected to precisely reflect this temperature on your gauge. Any ideas, has anyone tried something similar?