Meaty69Maro

ZFan1: Johns Cars shorty headers RebekahsZ: The shafts are made out of Chromoly. There are some small grooves towards the end of the shaft (in the splined part) for the snap ring to sit in. It snapped clean where the groove was machined in. It is a great kit, but won't hold a nitrous launch. But has held multiple 1.45-1.52 60 foot times. My nitrous kit is a $400 kit from Nitrous Outlet. I manually press the button when I want to spray, very simple kit.

I have broken 2 Chromoly CV axles. I was basically trying to find out what the limits were so I could back off a bit from there. DO NOT try to spray out of the hole, I've found out that about 1 car length out is fine. I have some 2.5" bullet mufflers welded to the down pipes off the shorty headers, I use the same computer tune for both on and off the spray. Thanks for the compliments everyone.

Hello again all, Sorry for being MIA. Work/School/Projects have me going non-stop. Ill try to answer all the questions. RWHP: I have never dynoed it but I am guessing around 380ish rwhp N/A and whatever a 100shot nozzle will add on top. Keep in mind it's going through a stalled auto and the small JCI short headers. My tuner just bench tuned my ecm for the 100 and it seems to work fine. No secrets here, I always pop the hood at carshows and willing to talk to anyone about the build. The bottom-end is still bone stock as well as the original un-ported 241 heads. Of course I have upgraded the valvetrain to accomodate the bigger cam. On another note, Does anyone have experience with this kit? https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car If I plan on going any faster, this will have to be the next upgrade. My Chromoly CVs are nice but as one of the previous posters said, the Stub axles are the next to go.

Yup! I'm using the Johns Cars motor mounts, headers and driveshaft. I gave him the length he needed for the TH-350 and he had one sent out to me within a couple of days. I too have put this his parts through some abuse and they continue to hold up. What kind of times are you running with your set-up?

Just sent you a PM but left-out what the car did before spraying it. She ran 10.8 @ 122mph all motor, 1.52-60ft.

Zero: Yea I was really expecting it to be closer to a 10.30 car on the spray but it's 60 footing alot quicker than my original calculations. And I think the 100 shot on these cars is equivilent to a 150 shot on an average weight car like an F-Body. RebekahsZ: I don't mind the brain picking, go ahead and shoot the PMs. I did alot of picking when building this one.

They are 295/45-17 E.T Street Radials. Measures out to a 28x11.50-17.

Hello all, I've been gone for a while but finally back with some new pics and track times. Pretty much built the whole car based on info I got from this forum and couldnt be any happier with the performance to mod ratio. Mods: 2002 LS1. Cam-only. Stock bottom end, stock heads. 100-shot (nozzle). The rear-end is still the stock open diff, with the exception of an upgraded CV axle kit. Although I did do a 1.46 60ft on the stock u-joint half shafts, I felt the CV's would be more reliable. Time slip: 60ft: 1.453 1/8 mi: 6.326 @ 110.02mph 1/4 mi: 9.944 @ 134.63mph Hit the N20 about 20ft out, 4th pass of the day so next time i'll increase the bottle pressure and hope to not break an axle . How I got the car a few years ago Recent Pic Video of pass, starts at the :50 mark: Any comments questions and concerns are welcome. Thanks!

Thank you. Yes there should'nt be a problem with getting your Z to run with your Z06. Easier if it's a C5, a little bit harder if it's a C6Z06 . You're more than welcome to stop by my place and check things out, my car is still somewhat bare so all of the work is exposed for you to see. We are also working on a 87 RX7 LS1/T56 swap as well that you can check out. I will be there all day this Saturday and possibly Sunday if you'd like to come by and check things out. I will PM you my info.

Unfortunately I have not gotten that far yet. Last Saturday was the first time shes cranked since I started building . May try the fiberglass wrap trick though. Thank you sir. Its just a 2002 LS1 (LS6 intake) with a stout cam and ported throttle body. The motor ran 11.60's in a 89 RX7 with a 6spd (previous home). I figure a stalled auto and a few hundred pounds lighter should put me in the low 11's or so.

I appreciate the compliments fellas. I have to say this forum has been 100% of my inspiration! Lots of good info and lots of badass Z cars. It's actually a Jegs 8-pt kit with a couple of small changes. I'd say a hell of a deal for the money.

The cam is a 238/240 605/609 on a 112 lsa Dudeboy, You are correct. I had these Nittos next to some Goodyear Eagle F1s, the F1's were at least 1.5" wider. Definitely would have to downsize if I went with any other brand tire.

Yes they are 17x9.5 Rota RB-R's in the rear. IMO the 315 Nitto looks like it belongs on there, no crazy bulge. It is going to be a street/strip car. The motor made 410rwhp through the previous 6-spd. I also plan on adding a 100 shot. With the current auto/4k stall converter and some traction she should be good for low 11's on motor and possibly mid 10's on the spray. So close to being done, yet so far!

Yes sir straight headers for now. We dont have much room underneath due to the custome tubular tranny crossmember, so we are going to have 2 bullet mufflers coming straight off of the collectors with a dump. Iron Man: Thanks for the compliment. She still has along way to go looks wise. I wanted to keep the outside looking as "Japanese" as possible. But the paint color is a Pearl/Metallic Lamborghini blue..Not positive on the paint code though. I'm running a 315/35-17 Nitto DR outback. Thanks again!

Thank you sir! Yes, those are the carbon fiber "Super Wide" flares a forum member here used to offer.

I started this project over 2 years ago which was originally just going to be a simple LS swap. Ironically I ended up doing all new Autometer gauges, an 8-pt roll cage, race buckets, complete fuel system with a 10 gallon cell, Paint/Body job, Rota wheels, etc etc etc. Anyways this motor sat for 5 years and I finally got to hear her crank. Pic & Start-up vid below. I plan on having her completely done and ready for the dragstrip by March! (Trans is a built TH-350).

Hello All, Can someone please point me to the right direction on where to purchase Rota RB-R Wheels from nowadays. I see the RBs everywhere but am having a hard time finding the RB-R's in the 17x9 (-13) and 17x9.5 (-19) sizes. I have tried contacting Kim Cosmic but have not had any luck. I am kicking myself in the rear for missing out on the Group Buy as well Thanks in advance!

Hi all, I recently picked up a 1984 300ZX N/A from a friend, 121k on the odometer. Bought it for dirt cheap because it had been sitting for over a year due to a bad alternator. I brought it home.. changed the alt, battery, fluids and filter and she cranked right up! The motor runs like brand new and the 5spd shifts nice. Question: Everytime I either hit the gas or shift gears, it feels like the rearend is shifting around. It is quite noticeable and hits pretty hard (like a loud bumping noise). Can anyone please tell me what bushing or mount needs to be replaced to fix the problem? And where I can order the part? I've done some searching on google and came up with mixed results. Thanks in advance, Kevin

Please include: 1. Year of motor/mods: 2002 LS1, LS6 intake, HPE S-Cam. Dynoed 411rwhp thru previous 6-speed, Painless Wiring Harness, dope in the future. 2. Tranny: Built TH-350 with 4k stall converter. 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts: All JCI 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, including fuel, wiring, etc.: Haywire 21 circuit Body Harness, putting everything on toggle switches. All Autometer Phantom gauges. 5. Date you started on the project, date finished: Started about 3 months ago. Still cuttin and wrenchin! 6. Other car mods (suspension, brakes, etc.) Just finished the Jegs 8-Point cage today. Very nice kit for the money. Optional: Pictures and miscellaneous info! Will post up pics soon!

Flattened a cam lobe. Had to do a new cam/lifter swap. Did the ole 304/312 648/669, 108 LSA bumpstick. BUT she "should" be all done by this Saturday:mrgreen:.

Hi all, I am currently building a 1976 280Z with a LS1/BuiltTH350 combo. I've got the complete Johns Cars mount/crossmember/header kit, And it will be a street/strip car. I have done tons of research but came up short with answers to the following questions. *What Brand/Style gauge set(s) do yall LS1 swap guys recommend (IE: Speedo, Tach, Oil pressure, Water temp, Voltage)..That will fit in the Stock dash holes. *What fuel pump is popular, if I want to use the stock mounting location and stock tank? *Does anyone have a pic of a complete Johns Cars left side Motor mount? *Is the stock body/chassis strong enough to hold a 380rwhp N/A car with an automatic and 4k stall converter? (The car has two small moon roofs). *Does anyone besides Jegs make a nicer Roll Cage kit? Or is a custom one the way to go with the Z cars? *Is anyone using the Stock radiator? If not, whats the best cost effective recommendation? Thats all I can think of "For Now". Any and all input will be much appreciated!!! Thanks!

He runs 16s lol. I was actually out there running as well. I had a stretched Raptor 700 Drag Quad (White). Had to run it since the Camaro is down and the 280 isnt finished yet. I saw you tearing it up out there, I also live on the Northside.

Thanks alot for the info Fellas! I ended up getting a floorpan/framerail kit from http://datsunrestore.com/ . I should be recieving it later on this week.

Can someone please point me to the right direction? I am looking to buy a set of floorpans/framerails for my 76 280Z, but can't seem to find a reputable store that offers such items. Any links for online companies would be greatly appreciated! ~Kevin

It probably would not hurt to throw it on the dyno and diagnose it through the RPM range. As far as performance mods...I'd say put a nice stout cam in it. Your goals of 300rwhp can be easily reached with a well tuned/bolt on LT1.