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ZROSSA

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Posts posted by ZROSSA

  1. Not sure what / inchs is? I have measured it this afternoon. It is 13 inchs from the front of he radiator suport and 4.5 inchs of the ground. The front of my car is lowered but the back isnt so it will come up a little when done.

     

    Can someone get back to me so I can compare.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  2. Ok, So now we have 4 wheeel drive. You might be able to keep it in a strainght line. So lets have a think about the fastest 4x4's and what kind of gerarboxes they run. You need a transfer case so I think that leaves the t56 on the sideline. The gtr skilines that road raced in group a (r32) made over 700 hp. They needed a race only hollinger gearbox. Some of the pike peak cars have huge hp and 4x4. None of them run standard componets. Unless you start to look at truck componets (propably still not strong enough) you are going to have a fortune tied up in drivtrain parts.

    I have no doubt the chev can make the power. Nascar can make 800 hp without the blowers on smaller cubes with restrictions, and the factories are putting out turbo cars with over 170 hp per lt as it is now. If you can manage that you will have 1068 hp from your 377. I dont think making the power is going to be the problem.

    After saying all that, it would be wicked to see a z with that kind of power. We just dont know what kind of resources you have at you disposal to meet this goal. Hell, Your boss could be Rod Millan of similar. :wink:

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  3. You can also custom valve koni's any way you want them. There are quite a few custom shock builders out there. olin's , carrera , wp? are a few that come to mind. It wont be hard to find one of them that cam make something that will work for you. You will just need very deep pockets. They will need to know the weight of each end of the car and the sprung and unsprung weights, travel range and the spring rates. As was said before, thats a mighty stiff spring. I would guess that springs that stiff are for a car thats producing downforce. Thats something you will never have on the autocross track. I have never run on a autocross before but at a guess i think you would need something with great turn in and huge traction out of the corners. With sping rates that stiff you will have no traction any where! I would swap the springs for some below the 300 lb mark. You might be able to use a off the shelf shock then. Use the anti roll bars to control the car in the corners.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  4. Howdy all,

     

    I am making a new front nose cone for my s30. My car had a standard nose on it before so I dont have any heights to work to. Could some of you that have air dams/spoilers measure the distance from the ground to the bottom of the dam. I also nee a meassurement from the front lip to the radiator x-member. If you have any problems with scraping at the heights you run could you let me know as well.

     

    Thanks Guys,

     

    Douglas

  5. Its a cool look. I couldnt find any, anywhere, so am making something similar for my race car. They would only be for looks on a road car. You could never run the thing close enough to the ground to make them work. I really dont think they are the right style for the s30. The clk mercedes one would probably look the best.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  6. The front of the windsheild is always going to be a high pressure area. Cowl induction hoods use this to feed air in, not out. The best place for a air vent is further forward just behind the radiator. This is a low pressure area on the s30 and it will suck air out. Dave's suggestion of putting tell tails on the hood is a good one. Where they start to lift is where you want to put the vents. We have had some mighty fine discusions on this in the past, Might pay to do a search as well.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  7. He is in aussie zline and talking in aussie $. Datto, Figure out how much power you want and work backwards. Dont forget the rb30 turbo that came in the c/dores. There are guys getting big power out off them and they are probably cheaper than any of the other options. I wouldnt bother with the rb20. If i was going to do a 2lt I would use a four as well. Probably a fj20. Cheep and mighty tunable.

     

    Douglas

  8. Years ago I read a artical in a mag about a company on the U.K. that was making 3 and 4 rotor engines. They were based on the 12a. Interesting set up actually, he ran su carbs and was getting good power and not to bad fuel consumption as well. The mag was Fast fours and roteries. Probably about 7 years ago. I dont have them any more unfortunatly.

     

    Douglas

  9. Thanks Jeff,

     

    I have deleted all the files and it seems to have worked. :D

    I know nothing about computers so this is all new to me. When I had problems in the past I just called network admin. Dont have that option now that I work for myself. :?

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  10. Howdy All,

     

    The last couple of weeks every time I log on all the dates in the forum are on the 14th of march. I have to go to the previous page posts and then back again to get the current ones. Also new posts are not marked unread.

     

    Any one else having problems of this sort?

     

    Cheeers

     

    Douglas

  11. Howdy All,

     

    The last couple of weeks every time I log on all the dates in the forum are on the 14th of march. I have to go to the previous page posts and then back again to get the current ones. Also new posts are not marked unread.

     

    Any one else having problems of this sort?

     

    Cheeers

     

    Douglas

  12. Thanks Mudge,

     

    Does any one else make 265/45/16's. You would be mighty pissed off if they stoped making them and you had gone to the expence of setting up for them. My 16x7's are multi piece so i might see if i cam get new rims to go on the centers and go up to 17 inch. There seems to be a lot more tyres to choose from in that size. Mabye something like 315/35/17's :D . Dreams are free.

     

    Douglas

  13. I remeber reading somewhere that you can use marine grade carpet and underlay. Aparently its much lighter than normal carpet and the underlay is a excellent sound absorber.

     

    Douglas

  14. Before I Cam to Hybrid Z i would have agreed with you Kevin. I have always been a fan of small engine that you could rev the hell out of. I am Not convinced that a 4 valve head is needed in engines larger then 5.0 lts. You just dont rev them Hard enough and if you do it costsa lot more $ to modify them to be able to live with it. 4 cams instead of 1 and so forth. The overhead valve engines seem to be much smaller and lighter as well. I guess what i am trying to say is that for a specific realistic power output its going to be much cheeper to get it from a pushrod engine. I noticed the other day that the Gen 4 chevy engine is still a push rod all be it a twin cam like the new harly engines.

     

    Douglas

  15. I get the feeling that your still looking for more info. I would love to be able to help but i have never set eyes on one. I was thinking about putting a v8 in a 911 at one time and I really liked the weigt of the buick so I did a little research. Mounts are not hard to do. Its just a case of measuring many times and cutting once. I am sure that the trans. mount can be done similar to the jtr one. Why dont you compare the buicks mounts to the chevy ones. That way you can work fom a base line that you already know the sizes off. You can also search the net. A lot of people replaced the buicks with chevy's becuase they are cheeper to get power from.

     

    Douglas

  16. Rear wheel drive is no problem. The boxer is north south mounted so you just dont hook up the front wheel drive shafts. I really don think it will fit in the engine bay. They are bloody wide. I will go and measure my wifes one...hang on....just under 30 inchs wide from valve cover to valve cover. It has a little over 30ml clearence between the heads on the frame rail. This car is a major pain in the arse to change plugs on as is. I am told the factory service manual says to drop the engine to do the plugs. It took me over four hours the first time i did it. Watch the import engines. Make sure you get the manual trans ones. The autos have less power to make the trans live. Tranmissions are the week link but they might get a easyer life in a rear wheel drive situation.

     

    The twin turbo are a sequential. One is larger then the other. The little one works a lower revs and the larger one kicks in about 4000 rpm. this is suposed to give a wider power band. Good in theory but in practise it doesnt really work that well. The factory STI cars make the same amount of power and use a single turbo. The sti cars are bloody quick. My father in law had one and untill he bought a evo 7 that was the fastest thing i had ever been in the odd factory V8 included.

     

    Look for a closed deck block. They came on the Legacy gt's and the sti wrx's. Another idea might be the engine from the Svx. 3.3 lts of turbo flat six seems like a better place to start. They all came in auto only though.

     

    This might just work after all.

     

    Douglas

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