ZROSSA
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Posts posted by ZROSSA
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Shaddow...do a search. There is another aussie guy who has a rb30 with the rb25 head floating around here. I wouldnt be surprized if there was a few differences in the sumps and engine mounts. Also the rb30 might have used G.M. injection. This can be tuned relativly inexpensively. I could be compleatly wrong. I havent seen one of these engines for a good 6 - 7 years now and Stony is a guru for shure, but just think about what went into those era c/dore chassis, 5.0 v8, 3.3 pushrod 6, straight 4, rb30 and over here the rb20. Mounts have got tp be different.
Happy hunting!
Douglas
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Thanks guys,
Seam welding is a real pain. I spent months under my corolla doing it with a gas torch. As I said it looks like the car will have to come further apart so I may as well do some "while I am at it".
Douglas
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Mabye I might stitch weld a little, I just found more rust in the floor so it going to have to come apart more than I thought. Just when I think I am ready to put thinks back together something always comes up. Usually Rust! Crap!
I can, and will, make strut bars. It looks like you can reinforce the front anti roll bar buy adding a box section above it and tieing it into the inner guard. I am surprized that no one seems to do a brace to the front part of the steering rack mount. Its just hanging out there. Might have a look at that as well.
Still open to more sugestions.
Douglas
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Jon,
You are right. I forgot about that. Looks like I will be visiting the neighbours lathe after all. Shouldnt be to hard to whip one up out of steel and put in a spherical bearing. Done right, I think you could lose up to 60mm. Do you think it would be wise to keep the little rubber that fits on top of the spring seat?
Douglas
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RC, Not really planing to seam weld anything. I really dont want to take this car that far apart. The interior is mostly out and I will pull the engine out soon as well to tidy up the engine bay. I was really thinking about things like welding plates where there is known movement. Discreate kind of things that wont actract the attension of the M.O.T.
Douglas
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Well I pulled the spring set of. It looks like the options are to melt all the rubber out and cut and weld up the isolater to work like a non adjustable camberplate or I could try to make some camberplates. I dont have a mill or lathe, Or a drill press for that mater. I do have welding gear though. Kind of answers my own question really, doesnt it?
Douglas
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Jon,
Prevoius owner shaged things about a bit, lowered the front but not the rear. I am really just trying to find a way to get rid of the isolater without machining up new parts. I can cut things and weld them back. Just wondering if any one has done it before.
Cheers
Douglas
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Howdy,
I pulled the rear strut out yesterday. I have a diference of 60mm between the front and rear ride hight in my 260. I am tring to get the rear lower without puting in new springs. If I could get rid of the rubber in the rear strut isolater I would be in the ball park, But..... It apears to be atatched to the top of the spring seat. What do you guys running camber plates do? Mill of the top from the spring seat, or are they two peices and mine has fussed together over time?
Cheers
Douglas
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Thanks for moving the post. Must have been asleep when I posted it.
So, anyone have any ideas.
Douglas
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Howdy all,
I finally have the z on jack stands and in the enclosed part of my shed. I have been fixing up the odd rust spot and thought that "while I am at it" I would weld up some bracing plates as well. In one of the how to race your datsun books I used to have, they had photos that showed where to put the additional bracing. I gave this book away years ago and dont seem to be able to find one locally. I am not talking about roll cages or new chassis rails. Does any one out there have some photo's, links or sugestions on where addition bracing is required. This is a road car so I really dont want things intruding into the cotpit that I cant cover with carpet. I am also still considering in strenthening the trans tunnel so it works like a back bone. So, Any ideas?
Cheers
Douglas
P.S. Dont know why I put this here. I thought I was in the chassis section. Can a mod move It, please.
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The Toyota Supra 5 speed is another option. You can get close ratio's and higher overdrive ones if you look around. They are rated to 400 lbs of torque. Cheep to.
Douglas
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Richard,
Your car has the fj20, right? I would asume that you have a rear weight bias. This would mean that your actual wheel rates would still be different front to rear. I think John is working on a car with 50/50 weight distribution. You would also have to have a car with the same unsprung weight on the front and rear.
Douglas
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I thought the duretec was designed in europe? Anyway, if its the one in the mazda 6 why not do the 2.4lt?
Douglas
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You are a sucker for punishmet , Terry. The car is looking better and better. You are very right in saying its not easy to get it right the first time when starting from scratch. Originally I thought ot the first gen z as a sleek and "rounded" style. After may beers and a few late nights looking at it, I came to the realisation that it looks swoopy but a lot of the shape is derived from hard edges, In particular the main one that runs along the side of the length of the car. This makes blending a rear spoiler in really difficult if you want to make it look like its suposed to be there. I have gone for a little different approach but then mines a 2+2 and I wanted to lenghthen the car visually to draw attension away from the hocky stick roof line and be funtional.
Must go and do some work on it. Havent touched it for months.
Good work, you are a inspiration!
Douglas
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I was at a paved hill climb last weekend that had a lot of classic cars. One was a tiny motercycle twin engine with rotary valves. Pre ww2. It sounded really cool and seemed to have a lot of torque for what it was.
Douglas
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There is a article on them in the August 2003 issue of GRM. There is a add at the end of the article for a co. called GT source. Phone 1-800-673-5487
it might pay to give them a call and see what they say. The one you looked at was probable a 1.9lt. looks like a lot of neat things there for sale. It looks like its the same block that lotus used to make there engines. hummm, 2.4lt four valve twim side draft run about for ones children.
Douglas
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Jon,
I have heard a few horror stories reguarding the handeling as well. My father in law said he blew one away in his blazer and that after driving one he could understand why. Another old freind of mine who worked in the states in the seventies told many stories of ill handeling panteras. I hope they sorted it out in the later years. This guy was/is really talented. He has made over 70 cars from scratch. Best one i saw was a some BMW M1 repicas with chevy small block power. Hand beaten ali in a steel space frame. They were just over 2000 lbs and were eventually baned from the classic car races becuase the ferraris and Porches were compleatly thrashed. Kind of what the pantera should have been.
Douglas
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Macks,
Have a talk to some of the local rally guys. There cars have to be used on public road between stages. Some of these cars have pretty impresive cages. You could also use the trans tunnel as a structural member. Do the strut triangulation like John said and then run tube from the inside of the fire wall along the trans tunnel and then back up to a rear strut brace. Kind of like a TVR chassis, or maybe the center section of a lotus 7 type trans tunnel. Not the stiffest structure known to man but can it can be hiden under carpets and things and should go a long way to stoping the chassis flex. I really think this is a better solutin then the beams underneath. You could use really light tube and triangulate it the whole way along. Lots of fun with the welder.
Douglas
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Terry,
You dont have falcons. They used to be similar to the U.S. falcons back in the sixtys but the aussie one has been developed locally. It shares no common components with any U.S. cars except for the engine. They use a locally modified version of the 250 six ( twin cam head) and have just started putting in themodular V8.
Douglas
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It might be time to find flares of any car that will cover the wheels and them cut them about to fit. I would look at some series 1 rx7 kits or mabye some group one flares of a mk1 escort. In N.Z. these things can be found pretty cheeply and then be made to fit. I have never looked into it, but I would guess that there are hundreds available in the states to choose from.
Douglas
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260z,
Not fussed about the harsness. Its a sunday only car. If it ever gets out of the shed. I keep finding more rust. Anyway, if you are keen to make a another set of plates can you let me know what they will cost so I know how much food to take away from the children.
Cheers
Douglas
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Hey 260zman!
Do you want to make a extra set of camber plates? Rear ones only for now. I want to replace the whole rubber assembly back there to lower the car. The car was originally set up with the rear 60mm higher then the front. Not the look I was after.
Cheers
Douglas (Hawkes Bay)
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Fred Phun's (sp) book was a good read. It was the first book I bougt on handeling, many years ago. I havent read the other one. Carol smiths book were also really good. Read Puhn's one first though.
Douglas
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I am surprized at how close a fit it is. Looks as though we were thinking along similar lines...
http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/album_pic.php?pic_id=1205
The photo is pretty rough but a hell of a lot of sanding has been done since. Should have a fiberglass guy showing up this weekend to help out making a mold. We will see............
Douglas
Lancia swap idea
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
My uncle had one of those. It was pretty quick but then we never had all the polution gear on them here. Lancia made a supercharged version called a volumex that had (I think) 160hp. That would move that car pretty smartly. They are all made from lancia beta parts so parts are not to hard to find. As usuall decide what power you want then work backwards. That 2lt twin cam head can swaped out for a 4 valve version, turbos from the delta all bolt on. The engine is good for a easy 300 + hp. There are people racing them in Aussie putting out around 600hp!
Douglas