eec564
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Posts posted by eec564
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So, my exaust manifold has developed a rather large leak, and I sound like a motorcycle with straight pipes. I've removed everything I can imagine that could be holding the intake manifold on, including the fuel rail, EGR, coolant hoses, air intake, vacume hoses, the four intake manifold bolts, etc. I should just be able to wiggle the manifold and pick it up off the head, to get to the exaust underneath, right?
I was under the impression the the heat shields that you cannot get to without taking off the intake manifold were attatched to the intake manifold, and wouldn't impede my removal. Any help by anyone who's done this on an engine that's still in the car would be great. In case for some reason my signature decides not to show my car specs, it's an 82 280ZX non-turbo, totally stock.
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Where did you get those split gauges? I'm considering building a nice programable set that handles lots of stuff at once, but pre-made would save a lot of time.
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The Wallbro (sp?) pump, right? Yea, you could use that, but you'd need a COMPELETELY seperate fuel system for the high pressure NOS. If you swap pumps, the high pressure will destroy your carbs. You will also need a fuel pressure regulator, one that is continous flow, not dead head. Basically, you're having to add all the pieces the NO2 system would normally tap into, that a fuel injected car would already have. Not a big deal, just a fair amount of work and a lot of attention to detail. Never take any chances when working with fuel, a 40+ PSI gas fed fire will more then ruin your day.
Another possibility would be to use fuel jet sizes ment for carb fuel pressures, providing you are 110% certain that your fuel pump can keep up with the added demand. You can never go wrong with using a wide band O2 sensor to make sure you aren't running lean. Also, remember that you also may need to retard your spark when on NOS to an extent that would not work with regular driving. If you know what to listen for, check out this http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0353 and also possibally part 1 here http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=0348
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NO! Do not just put it on to your engine and try to run it. The system you have for a fuel injected car expects around 48psi on the fuel system for when it injects the extra fuel to go with the NOS. The fuel system for carbs is around 4psi. You will need a second fuel pump and fuel system to provide the proper pressure to the NOS fuel system so the car dosen't lean out when you add NOS. Check out http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrous/index.htm to see what jet sizes you'll need at different fuel pressures so you don't run lean. I'm not completely sure how accurate it is when you enter extremely low fuel pressures, so a little common sence will be needed there. Also, even if using the stock fuel system at 4psi with a larger nozzle for fuel, the existing pump may not be able to keep up with the volume needed, even at the lowe pressure. fico is also right, you do need a switch to only activate the system (after it's armed) when you are at WOT (wide open throttle). For your car, that would simply be a microswitch somewhere on the throttle linkage calibrated to engage at the very spot where you have the gas pedal pushed all the way to the floor.
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Nope, level is perfect. Drove 300 miles in the last two days right after changing the oil and it's exactly where it should be, unchanged since I filled it. Just odd that oil pressure would be high for a while then settle down to where I'd expect it to be.
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So, I just changed my oil, and for the first 15mins of driving, my pressure was higher then usual. The background: After buying the car, I changed the oil and put in 10W-30 full synthetic with a POS fram filter to try and clear some gunk out of the car as it wasn't driven often. Oil pressure was 15-20psi according to the stock gauge at idle, and 40-45psi cruising. After a few thousand miles, I changed the oil and put in 10W-40 dino juice, with another POS bosch filter.
For the first 15-20 mins of driving after the change, my pressure was a solid 30psi at idle, and 60psi cruising. After putting somewhere around 20-30 miles on it, my pressure went back down to 18-20 at idle and 45-46 cruising, which seems normal to me.
I don't think there's anything wrong, I'm just not sure why that happened. Anyone else ever have this happen? I'm just curious.
-Eric
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I've always wanted to see 25lb aluminum heads flying through the air!
pull out the spark plug on #4, pour in half a cup of nitromethane, reinstall the plug . make sure the rocker arms are off and hit the starter. Do the same for #5 and both heads will come off. -
To keep from damnageing the heads if you have to pry really hard, put something in between the pry bar and the head. A strip of wood or rubber works good, such as a short piece of rubber exaust hanger. Hitting the heads with a rubber mallet from various directions can help break loose the head gasket. Remember, there are alignment pins that keep the head from actually sliding off when loose, so the direction you're looking for is up. You can also try prying with a piece of wood, it shouldn't damage what you're prying on.
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The turbo timer has nothing to do with megasquirt. All it does is keep the engine running (by keeping power on the ignition wire behind the key) for a short amount of time to let the turbo spool down and engine temp stablize. If you have an alarm, it should also bypass the sensors that could be triggered by the engine running, such as motion and ignition on sense.
Any turbo timer that's considered "generic" and just comes with a wiring diagram rather then in-line plugs for a specific car should work fine. My alarm has a remote start system which also includes a turbo timer function, and handles the alarm arming correctly.
-Eric
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MS has to be grounded some how, otherwise it won't work. Re-check all your wiring, see exactly what runs where. Make a diagram too, it seriously helps in the long (and even short) run.
Be careful with MS not connected to ground well, it may pull a lot of power from the little grounding it has and burn something out.
Awsome deal on the TPS and throttle body. You could sell the new (or old, if it's nice) body without the TPS for quite a bit. Just don't do it for a couple months, in case the company realizes what they did and ask for it back.
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Now, correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought MS turned on the injectors by grounding them, and that the + side of the injectors was switched by the ignition switch and generally through a relay too.
You may also want to consider grounding MS to the chassis, in the cabin, the engine block has lots of noise in it from the alternator and ignition system.
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That Audi is supposed to belong to a Saudi oil baron and be solid sterling silver. I have a power point of it from a meeting about the profiteering in the oil industry. If people are interested I can make an attempt to dig it out of the archives.
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should i tell him the price b4 or afta the part out...lol
b4 $250 for the 83 parts car + $200 shipping
total $450
Afta i sell the wheels alone i should be in the positive atleast $50.
At that price I'll take two!
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Maybe a chevy 350 and do something like this
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114800
All I can think of after seeing that is FOD* waiting to happen.
May make a few people at the track wet themselves though...
*FOD - Forign Object Damage. I.E. any object sucked into a jet intake that completely trashes the engine. Just ask anyone in the airfore.
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That alternator thing isn't all that uncomon. Try running with it unhooked and get back to us. You may need to install a filter between the alternator and battery. Generally a good capacitor will do it. But test it out before throwing parts at it.
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Good god, last time I saw something that big, it was on a 12-liter cummins diesel, an engine about as big as my Z. Asside from massive turbo lag, you're going to need one heck of an enging to handle the boost that thing will put out flowing for 2.8 liters. Maybe mount it where the A/C compressor would go, attatched to the body, with flexable exaust hose up to the manifold.
Trying to feed that thing oil may end up needing an aux pump, perhaps a dry sump system on top of the existing pump. And I can only immagine the size of the blow-off valve.
A small jet engine built with that may be able to put out enough thrust to get you going faster...and save you the space problems under the hood...
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The TPS should be grounded to the megasquirt signal ground, not the block. It should be isolated completely from the high-current/high-voltage systems in the ignition system. The alternator, fuel pump, and possibally radio/amp also contribute to noise in the system. Also, the VR sensor should have shieled wires. Those are the critical ones giving megasquirt crank position and rpm.
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Turbos are wonderful, I miss having one and am looking for a cheap turbo motor to rebuild and drop in. I figure I can do one for around 1500, much of that being for an LC-1, megasquirt, junkyard intercooler & perhaps larger injectors, on top of a rusted out turbo Z.
It's safe, always avalible power and dosen't require refils and dosen't need to be used in short burts at full throttle above a certain rpm. No2 isn't so much cheating as it's good for going fast in a straight line. I like turbos, personal preference. If you need more intercooling, try water/ethonal(sp) injection rather then running rich and/or an intercooler spray bar.
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Out of curiosity, how hot did your head get? I've had mine up to 230 after shutting off my motor on a hot (105) day and letting it sit not running. That is, of course, according to my stock gauge. The hottest while driving was just to the right of the letter F on the temp gauge.
I'm really just looking for an upper limit before I should back off the gas and let it cool down. I normally get very paranoid around 200-205 knowing my thermostat is 158 (70C, opening at 168F, closing at 158F, tested on my stove).
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Unless you test something and find out it's bad, you should try testing the system between each change. You'll feel better (and so will your wallet) if you make one change and everything works, rather then making 50 changes and it working, but not knowing what did it. Knowing what was wrong will be the key to reliability down the road.
-Eric
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I got my butt kicked once, in a totally un-fair race to my advantage, but my car wasn't up to it. Yes, that's my excuse.
I was in Wilson, KS, for the 4th of July weekend a few years ago. I'd driven out in my 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300SD Turbo Diesel and was partying with some friends. Some kid came over who'd just gotten his license and managed to get out of the house with his older brother's late 80s fire-bird. I was the only other person there with a car capable of 100+, and he wanted to race.
I didn't want to, knowing I'd get my butt kicked, but I finally agreed. We headed out on the highway about 12:30 (AM) and I yelled out the window a quick count-down. From neutral at 5K (redline at 5500) I dropped the car into low (automatic, yea I know, but they didn't make it in a manual) and left a small amount of rubber as I took off, reaching all 9lbs of boost by 20mph. Somehow, I managed to hold a lead all the way through 55mph where I had to shift into third and lost a lot of power in the large gap between gears. He kept gaining speed and pulled ahead of me with about 200 feet to go in our slowest-on-earth quarter mile.
I still have no idea what he was running, but it was something with throttle body injection (v8) and a th350, with a 3.0x rear end. Obviously not tuned for power, with a stock cam, and could have used a few more degrees timing advance. I'm surprised I held a lead 3/4 of the way down the line, I expected to be lit up worse than Charlee Sheen.
It was all balanced out because of the time I beat a 944 in my mini-van. But that's another story.
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When it comes to fixing drains on batteries on cars, it's fairly straight foreward if you use a lot of patience and are methodical. It's fairly easy to get frustrated, but it does help to go back to the beginning and try again.
You can think of the flow of electricity through the car like the flow of water. It leaves the battery (when car is off) at a certain pressure (volts) and flows at a certain rate (amps) through a restrictor (load, ie light bulb, electric motor, etc) and then back to the battery. Using an amp-meter capable of handleing at least 20amps (it'll need to be an in-line, where you connect it inside the circuit, or path, the electricity flows in, clamp-on amp meters are for AC, or alternating current, while cars are DC, for direct current) to see which paths the power is taking when your car is turned off. I know I'm going completely back to basics, but I have no idea what you already know.
Keep in mind you may have gotten another dead battery, it is wallmart.
First, disconnect the negative terminal of your battery, when it has a FULL charge in it. Breifly touch the terminal to the battery clamp, and see if it sparks much. If it does, more then a 9V battery with a screwdriver across it, then you may have too much current flowing to measure with a common meter, and you could damage it. If there is little or no spark, then connect the meter between the battery post and the clamp. That will tell you how much power is flowing while the car is off. If you have more then around 150ma (milli-amps), or 0.15 amps (same thing, which is about what all my electronic toys such as alarms and stereo memory backups, clocks, etc use when off) then something is pulling enough power to make your battery go dead in a reasonable amount of time.
Once you've verified that power is being drawn at a decently large rate while the car is off, you can start to isolate where it is being drawn from. You can connect your meter in-line with any circuit path in the car to see if the problem lies there. By removing any fuse, or one end of a fuseable link, and connecting the meter where the fuse was, or between the end of the link you removed and the place it plugs in to, or where each end of the link went if you removed the entire thing. I just don't like man-handling 30+ year old wires more then I have to.
You can keep checking each section of wiring that recieves power while the car is off in this manner, until you find the branch(s) using power. You can then disconnect devices fed by that branch until you un-hook one that stops the current draw. If you unhook one that lowers the current draw, then you've found one problem, but there's more out there. Last time this happened to me, it was my power antanna, very weird, but now fixed.
Good luck, if you have any questions or want/need clarification or to just flat out ask WTF did I say, I'll be around.
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I agree with johnc and navithan, you should be able to do both with 600. If you want to go really far, try a new fuel management controller such as megasquirt. You can eliminate the afm and seriously free up your intake, as well as tune your A/F ratios perfectly for better power. The complete setup should be around 500 with megasquirt, TPS, and wide-band O2.
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The restrictor idea was only for people with very large cams, as well as irregular and low vacume at idle. The idea being smooth out the changes (and at the same time make the map sensor less responsive through the entire range, while tuning and AE enrichment can be used to make up for much of it, it's still not perfect) in manifold pressure, averaging them out a bit.
Your bucking is most likely not caused by a poor (uneven, yet accurate) vacume signal going to the MAP sensor. You are most likely having a miss-fire, or megasquirt is missing an ignition event, and skipping injecting fuel once, or twice, or more. You didn't say how you were firing spark, or triggering megasquirt, so your exact set up may not be perfectly in line with what I said. An osciliscope on the post processed line (where the megasquirt cpu sees the trigger signal) should show you the even-ness of the ignition signal and if it's dropping any or seeing spikes. For the vast majority of people, an osciliscope is out of reach ($$$ and PITA technical know-how), so try other things first.
Also, keep a close eye on how long your injectors are firing, and if anything else is going on, such as AE, warm up enrichment, etc. You may want to try setting all values to 100%, except for your VE table, and spark table (if using megasquirt for timing) and see if it's still happening. Setting your spark table to all 10s (again, if using megasquirt for timing) may help eliminate one possibility.
If you can duplicate the problem while not moving, check the timing, fuel pressure, etc. If you have a wide-band O2, use that to log (at the highest sample rate) exactly what the fuel injectors are doing.
Good luck! Intermittant problems are a major pain, but they teach you a LOT when you DIY.
Can't get intake manifold off!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Okay, I'll get all the heatshields off and get under there with a mirror and flashlight. It wasn't clear at all from the downloadable FSM from carfiche that there were any intake bolts under the intake.
Thanks so much, I'll get on it AM tomorrow.