Dassan80z

I have a 1983 l28 + Auto Trans, have stolen fuel rail/injectors and a few other small parts. Good solid motor and trans with 123k miles. Would sell out right for cheap enough, but would really like to trade for a rust free hatch with good glass and seals for a 80 2 seater. Also looking for the spoiler, airdam, and a armor coated header with 02 bung. Might be interested in other zx parts as well. Also have tons of other parts to barter with as well. Located in Lexington South Carolina. -Rich 803-609-6070

Looking to buy a set of XXR 522s preferably 16" or 17" 8.5-9" fronts -6 , 9-9.5" rear -19 Would also consider some other wheels, with zero offset, but would like some lip for a buck. -Rich

I went through the entire ignition system before finding that the main cause was the injector pigtails. Everything is perfect with the ignition. It even got a blaster coil out of it. . Going to the body shop monday, I'll be sorting a few things out. Might go custom fuel rail. Def goin with new injectors and pig tails!

Gut the interior, Have it soda blasted, and buy a stud gun to pull out the dents, fiberglass it all nice and smooth, sand and prime the whole car. Then while you're piecing the interior back together you can mod it before deciding on paint. It think BrandyWine would be a nice color for it.

Found a few grounds that had issues, got those straight. PCV was seized. And have issues with corrosion/clips on the injectors. Is there any good swaps out there for the injectors and pigtails, like off a supra? Or should I just go back stock bosch with ev1s. Might go turbo down the rd.

The original compressor was seized. But the belt and tensioner were not on it when I bought the car. So I swapped good working ones over from my 83 parts car. Have looked at replacing the pig tails with ev1s but cleaning them should do for now. Dont think this is the main problem tho.....

Yo. Didn't want to start a thread about this, but I spent all day today scratching my head. 80 280zx na I replaced the ac compressor on my car, and then started it and it ran like ****, which was amazing since it has run perfect since the day I got it. It misfires and runs like crap at idle and through all the gears. I tested the coil, it passed but was leaking so I replaced it with an 8202 msd. This still did not fix the problem. I went through the entire ignition test procedure and everything checked out to be correct. Though behind the ICM was badly corroded, so I cleaned it, and greased all the connectors making sure they were tight. the cap, rotor and wires are all good. pick up coil around 375 ohms, inside of dist is slightly dirty. The sensor next to the dist that controls the injector fan, it's lead is broken off, has been that way. I can ground it before driving far tho, so not too much of a problem. I was thinking the ICM was at fault, but could not find a test for the module itself. Problem still there. I started wiggling injector connectors and wiring, and got it to get worse, but never better. Took the stethoscope to the injectors and found two that weren't pulsing until i massaged the wires into the right spot. They all have corrosion in them and the boots are dryrotted. I packed them with dielectric grease with no change, I will go get some cleaner and go over them and re grease them tomorrow. But still there is a dead miss somewhere not related to the injectors. It's just very akward that changing an a/c compressor would spark up a problem like this..... I didn't unplug anything except the one wire to the compressor and have went over anything i could have "knocked loose" in the process and then some. It was running prefect, like a sewing machine before. Any suggestions as to where else to look would help. Like afm related, or whatever. No vacuum leaks, everything is getting proper voltage, and has proper resistance so far. I have faith it will be fixed before the weekend is over. Can't be anything too serious.

That's pretty cool. I'll have to keep that in mind.

I think I'm just going to trade it with cash for the correct header, or something else "Z" related.

They quoted me about $100 and said it would take a day or 2. I'm probably just going to sell it for what I paid. $150 Its 2 3/4" collector and Y-pipe. ID

Ok, what if I was to get a custom flange made for the head, and have a slight amount (say 1/2") chopped off and have it re-welded to the new flange? Would this give enough clearance, or is it not worth the effort. There is a fab shop right up the road that has built all kinds of stuff for me. I don't think it would be a problem for them. Or is anybody interested in buying this thing?

N42 block N47 head. I did some rough measurements and it looks like the header should clear the steering gear box by an inch or so, and the mount by 1/2 inch i hope. If not I will have to notch it, unless there are low profile motor mounts available. -Rich I did some research and just need somebody to help confirm this. My cylinder head is a N47, and from what I have collected, it has diamond (round) exhaust ports. So I am thinking this header will not work, it is square port. resources. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/index.htm http://datsunzgarage.com/heads/ http://www.xenonz31.com/s130/Heads.html

They are square port headers. Just kind of out of square. Hence I will be port matching them the best I can. It's the original 80 motor, I just rebuilt it .020 over. It's not a rack n pinion, just a drag link setup. I am running the stock ECU, but the 02 is non existing. There is an EGR bung I believe on the header that has been welded up. So not sure whether to tap it, or delete the egr. (suggestions) The only issue I get with the 02 eliminated is the occasional funky start up. It clears and runs great after 5 seconds or so. I will take your advice on the stud kit, but what about the spacers? So a "stock" intake/exhaust gasket should work? Thanks -Rich

Ok, so on an impulse buy I snatched up a of Hooker Super Comp header for cheap. Plan to get it powder or heat coated, and port matching it before putting it on the car. The guy had it on a 78 280z L28 N/A, He told me it should work just fine on my 80 280zx, but I might have to notch the driver side motor mount to clear one pipe. Wondering if anybody out there has been this route and might offer some advice? Also, should I got ahead and buy the motorsport auto gasket, stud and nut kit, and will I need the spacers? I think I remember him saying something about that. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PEC05 -Rich

skyline tail lights for sale http://charlotte.craigslist.org/pts/2269545637.html

I've been looking at doing something custom as well. There are a few styles of super bee tail lights that look pretty good. I used one of you pictures, and put in some lights for an example. Also the dodge duster, and 70s road runner tail lights also look like they would work. http://www.google.com/images?hl=en&biw=1024&bih=574&gbv=2&tbs=isch%3A1&sa=1&q=super+bee+tail+lights&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=

Interested in buying a set of louvers, either sides or rear window or all, and interested in a spoiler, preferably the small one piece spoiler. for a 1980 280zx. Would also be interested in a set of headlight covers, and the 80 tail lights. With the reverse light on the top, no ridges. I have an 83 zx I'm parting out and would be willing to trade any part off of it for said items. Shipped to 29073. Or picked up if close by. -Rich

tried to donate but The card you entered cannot be used for this payment. Please enter a different credit or debit card number. My cards good, something else is wrong.

Sorry I just noticed that I posted it in the wrong section. Can someone move this? And where's the donate button located?

I have a great running and driving 1983 280zx. It's an L28 Auto trans. Everything is for sale except for a few interior trim pieces, the rear body panel and tail lights, hood and bumpers, and the entire A/C system. L28 N/A $500 Auto Trans $100 Inquire on all other parts. Complete or parted doors, hatch minus glass, wiper motors, other body parts, dash parts, digital dash, center console. etc. Located in Columbia, SC. Shipping available. -Rich

Don't know if you are still looking. I'm in Columbia, SC as well. I have a 1983 280zx L28 auto, I would be willing to sell you the motor for $500. It runs great.

Very Interested in this kit. Updates?