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zeeboost last won the day on January 31 2018

zeeboost had the most liked content!

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About zeeboost

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  • Birthday 10/27/1984

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    Austin, Tx

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  1. The fact that they have a 5 lug floating rotor, along with a caliper that I'm about 99% sure is not a direct bolt on for the 240z, doesn't instill a lot of confidence that the items will fit properly. It may just be generic stock photos that they use, but that doesn't help as a selling point. I have no experience with them, but brakes are typically not an item I try to cheap out on. The stock brakes are decent in most applications, once the system has been gone through and restored (new rubber brake lines, fresh fluid, sealed system with no leaks, properly adjusted drums, good set of pads of f
  2. I have a parts car that may have what you’re looking for. If you can send me a picture of exactly what you need, I’ll check underneath it tomorrow
  3. Thanks for the heads up aux, it was just enough motivation for me to splurge a bit.
  4. You could also just do it the old fashioned way and find TDC with a piston stop. Just need some kind of pointer on your crank pulley, even if it's a makeshift one. And timing tape helps but isn't necessary. Then you'd be able to easily verify ignition timing and cam timing.
  5. I'm planning on doing something similar as your setup, and so far I have a forged piston L28et (roughly 8:1 cr) on megasquirt, spearco intercooler, and plan on running e85 since we have easy access to that stuff all around austin. I haven't run mine yet to test it out, but I honestly think you'd be fine with just a stock bottom end as long you as run a quality intercooler and e85. E85 obviously isn't necessary, but it's definitely a godsend to help keep detonation at bay. Oh and I'd highly recommend finding a p90 head. I've ran a p79 with on a turbo setup before and it worked fine, but some p
  6. Well, dogs and Zs both have a Datsun in their lineage.
  7. I thought it was a pretty good price for that piece, glad it worked out for you.
  8. Not sure if this is the same one I posted earlier, but the listing just went up last night https://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/d/jim-cook-racing-whale-tail/6476577320.html
  9. Not mine but you can try this ad: https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/pts/d/240z-260z-280z-whaletail-wing/6452838157.html
  10. If it truly is a solid chassis with uncracked dash then yes it absolutely is worth that price. I sold a 280 a few years back for that same amount, pretty much same history and same solid shell as that one, except I had a dash cap over a cracked dash, but the triple webers helped offset that. Still regret selling it bc I haven't come across one that clean since then (for under $10k anyways). Keep in mind this was several years back before the value of the s30 chassis started going up. I'd snag it while you can and don't look back.
  11. Thanks you two for the advice, I've been reading up on autobody101 as well as many other forums looking to gather ideas on how to set this up. Here's what I have so far, let me know what you think. To answer some of my earlier questions, yes I should put any electrical switches inside the booth within their own sealed setup, but I think I'll just have power to the paint booth controlled by breakers in the fuse box of the main shop. (1 breaker for lights, 1 for fans) For the lighting, looks like that'll be behind sealed plexiglass. Also I plan on sealing the concrete to help with dust con
  12. I have a 20 x 21 concrete slab that I'm working on turning into a paint booth. I've done a ton of reading on the subject over the last couple of weeks, mostly trying to find the best intake / exhaust type setup to use, but information seems to get pretty conflicting after a while. Some say to use pusher fans with a filtered vent, or puller fans with a filtered vent, many setups use both pullers and pushers for intake and exhaust. I'm not sure what all factors come into place when trying to properly design a spray booth (what type of fans to use, should one be high and the other low, are there
  13. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but since there has been considerable work done to the wiring, the factory service manual won't be able to help you much should a problem arise. Megasquirt is great when it works, and it is definitely more user-friendly than ten years ago, but it is a picky system and can be a little finicky at times. I'm sure a lot of it is user error or quality of installation, which is another thing to look out for when checking this car out. Did he crimp the wires or solder them like they should be, run shielded wiring, how well did he tune it, etc. It may be
  14. I could see doing that to a 2+2 but the lines of a coupe conflict with the abruptness of that front end.
  15. I thoroughly enjoyed reading any of his replies, and will continue to as I search through the archives. Safe to say he's taught me a majority of what I know now about Datsuns and performance / fabrication in general since I first started visiting this site back in 2001. My heart literally sank as I saw the title of this thread. He's pretty much the only forum member I planned to visit on my first trip to Cali in one of my datsuns so I could thank him personally for all the help and advice he's volunteered over the years...now I feel terrible for not doing it sooner. Geez, just so sad
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