ktm
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Posts posted by ktm
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I routed my I/C piping under the car AND I have an electric fan.
Under the car looks soooo much cleaner than in front of the engine. However, I will state that having a 1/2-inch spacer helped to align the turbo outlet with the steering shaft. If you are running a stock T03, clocking it straight down will not help - the linkage will be in the way. -
Daeron, thank you for the suggestion, but I am positive that I have not 'switched' the L/R and U/D controls. I can get the mirror to move L/R by moving the switch L/R.
I am almost 100% sure that the problem lies in the mirror/switch combo. The later cars used two motors; the 280zx used one motor and a coil/clutch combination. The switch for the 280zx jumpers three connections together when moving the mirror U/D; the Maxima switch does not, and only jumpers the correct wires to activate the second motor.
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Cozy, thanks for the help. Your wiring description is nearly identical to how I have mine wired.
After looking at the FSM again, I realized I was mistaking the coil symbol for the defroster. It makes sense now, however, I also looked more closely at the switch diagram after reading your description.
I've come to the conclusion that my switch will not work as I hoped. Your description and my review of the switch jumper diagram confirms it. The 280zx switch, when activating the up/down, ALSO activates the L/R (or motor). It jumpers all three together.
The 1994 Maxima switch does not jumper the up/down together with the L/R or motor. However, I have a work around. My switch contains the mirror defroster function. I can simply turn on the defroster to activate the coil, adjust my mirrors up/down, then turn it off. It is not as neat as having a stand alone control, but the smaller size, single switch to control two mirrors, etc. more than make up for it.
Thank you for the help.
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I was looking at that exact same IC. The core height is irrelevant, its the core thickness and the core width that matter. That particular core has 60 sq. in. of charge air surface (3 in. thickness x 20 in. long). That is MORE than enough for a T3.
Wigen, J. Soileau, the reason I was looking at the IC with the inlet/outlets pointing up/down was because I wanted them to either point up or down at the time. The IC steve linked, as well as sweetleaf, has the inlet/outlet on the driver/passenger side. I did not want the inlet/outlet both exiting on the driver/passenger side. I wanted them either pointing to the ground or the hood.
However, I went a completely different route and bought a typical IC with the inlet and outlet on opposite sides. I am running a very stealth setup and will not need to modify my front valence whatsoever. Also, I am running the inlet piping UNDER my engine.
Thanks for all the input.
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I am wiring up a pair of 280zx electric windows (with defroster) for my 240z. I am using a 1994 Maxima switch to control the mirrors. I have the defroster working (very easy).
Here is my problem. The wiring diagram from the FSM for the mirrors is incorrect as far as I can tell. The FSM shows TWO plugs with 2 wires each. However, upon opening my mirror up (after a couple hours of frustration) all the way to the mechanism, I found that the mirror has ONE motor and a wire wrapped coil with an arm that activates a clutch. There are a total of 6 wires for the mirror (2 for the defroster, 4 for the mirror controls).
Basically, the motor controls the mirror (left/right, up/down) by alternating the current. When electricity is applied to the coil and creates a magnetic field, the clutch engages and the motor controls the up/down adjustment of the mirror.
Here is the problem. The way that the mirror is wired up, all the wires carry current in both directions, depending on whether or not the mirror is adjusting left or right, up or down. However, the coil with the clutch only transmits current in ONE direction. It should only engage when the mirror is adjusting up/down.
I can not, for the life of me, figure out a way to engage the clutch while the mirror control switch is in the up/down position.
The the up/down wire and the left/right wire from the switch both tie into the same motor wire (as I wired it....I could be wrong here). The, for lack of a better term, generic power wire ties into the other motor wire.
I've gotten the up function to work, however, when I move left, the mirror moves up as well (since everything is tied together).
Can anyone shed some light on how I can get the coil to engage the clutch?
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I called you guys on Friday and left a voice mail message. I'll drop an email later today.
Thanks for the response.
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I love the sound of the L28et without the muffler when revving.
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I am nearly done with my build and only need the exhaust system built. I have gotten three quotes from three separate places for a 3" mandrel bent aluminized system for $500 to $600, including the downpipe.
Is this reasonable? If not, just where should I be going?
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Best place for silicone hoses and adapters that I have found so far: www.siliconeintakes.com
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Take the intercooler and rotate it 90 degrees and you will see how the inlet/outlet are on the same side. Most cross-flow I/Cs have the plate and bars running parallel to the inlet and outlet. The same side I/Cs have the cores running perpendicular to the inlet and outlet.
Like I said, if you rotate this one 90 degrees you can see that the inlet and outlet are on the same side.
J. Soileau, I've got Corky's book and have referenced it extensively. I am still looking at the same side intercooler similar to 240Hoke's (was going to buy his but I need more of a custom fit). I like the layout of this one with the inlets and outlets either facing up or down.
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Same side inlet and outlet. Core is positioned correctly and given the long length should do a good job at cooling. Inlet and outlet could be positioned down or up. End tanks look decent.
Thoughts?
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Last weekend I finally got my OE engine harness back into the car. I removed all superfluous wires, replaced a few chewed up ones, attached all new connectors, etc., as part of my Wolf EMS install. After chasing two bad grounds, everything related to the OE engine harness works. I also installed headlight relays as well.
This weekend I connected all of my harnesses/subharnesses for the Wolf EMS. I waited with bated breath as I turned the key to 'ON' and was elated when the Wolf ECU LED lit up and the fuel pump whirred for 5 seconds before shutting off. I was dancing in my garage for nearly 5 minutes pumping my fists.
Now all I need are fluids, an intercooler, BOV, and exhaust and I can try to turn her over.
I just needed to share with those that are more understanding. My wife just looked at me with glazed eyes and shook her head.
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I gathered through searching that a few folks installed SPAL's electric fans and some others talked about installing SPAL's electric window kit, but I did not find anything where someone had installed them.
Sooooo, has anyone installed their kit into a 240/260/280? How does it fit? Fairly straight forward install or are there a few places that require modification? How do you like them?
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I have a 1972 240z with which I am installing a 1983 L28ET and using Wolf EMS. I've taken my engine harness out for a refreshening, and at the same time removing superfluous wires. In doing this, I've run into two switches/relays that are not showing up in my wiring diagram. I've even looked for the number and color of wires going into what is shown on the diagram to no luck.
Attached are the photos. They are a little oversize for clarity.
The gray plastic switch/relay is by the wiper motor plug. The oxidized metal switch/relay is located by the driver's side headlight. Does ANYONE have any idea what they are and if I can remove them?
Thank you.
By the headlight
By the wiper motor plug
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First part I can't help you with.
Now for the second question (which has been answered ad naseum here and the answer can be found by searching), the turbo clutch will work with the 5-speed tranny. You will need the throwout collar for the turbo or 2+2 - this is IMPORTANT. The throwout collar is paired with the pressure plate. If you use the wrong collar, your clutch will either not disengage or engage fully.
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I just went junkyard diving last Thursday. I hit all the major yards in the OC and LA area: 5 Pick Your Parts (2 in OC, 2 in Long Beach, 1 in Sun Valley and 1 Ecology (Long Beach). There were a few N/A ZXs with turbo hoods, but no turbo ZXs. I found a few Z31 turbos (I was looking for a differential) but they were all 1986 (no LSD).
Your best bet is to watch Craigslist, Zcar.com classifieds and Hybridz classifieds. I found my turbo engine in the Hybridz classifieds for $550 and it included the AFM and harness. The engine and turbo were in excellent condition.
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By being patient and shopping smart, here's what I've invested so far:
- F54 Block with burned up crank -free with parts car
- Rebuilt P90 head - free with parts car
- Used V07 crank and 9mm 240 rods - $150
- New cast KA24 flattop pistons - $85
- New turbo oil pump - $65
- New water pump - $35
- MS-II Kit w/LC-1 WBO2 - $500
- EDIS setup from junkyard - $35
- Nisson gasket and seals set - $45
- New Nismo cam gear - $60
- Rebuilt damper - $110
- Timing set - $40
- Used JSK fuel rail - $60
- Intake manifold from '75 280z - $15
- 60mm throttle body - $15
I still need bearings ($110).
Machine shop estimate is around $500.
Even with $400 reserved for incidentals, that's around $2500.
So, that's a pretty cheap stroker build!
Considering the purpose of the engine, I think this is a pretty good balance.
Yes, $2500 is a good deal so far. However, I was looking at $300 to $500 to source the block and head and $300 for the crank alone (you got a deal at $150 for the crank and rods). What you, and ezzzzz have not mentioned, is head work. My $4500 includes a $2000 quote from Rebello to do the head. Sure, you could do it yourself and save some money which is the point people are making I guess. I would hate to spend $2500 to $3000 on an engine and not achieve its potential.
- F54 Block with burned up crank -free with parts car
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I was simply quoting a cost I have seen for a couple of sets of triples that required rebuilding. I have also seen new Mikuni's sell for $2000. I was simply pointing out that ezzzzzz did not mention induction and thus his budget may be a bit low.
I know when I was contemplating stroker versus turbo, my stroker build was rapidly approaching $4500+ while the turbo build (based on a horsepower to horsepower comparison) was around $2000. I don't think that stroker and 'cheap' can be used in the same sentence, unless you put the word NOT before cheap.
Cheap is relative though. I am nearly $6500 into my turbo build now. I would say that $4500 is cheap. -
Ezzzzz, you did not mention carbs......in order to achieve your goals you are looking at triples. Best to add another $500 minimum to your budget.
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Why the rush to buy the turbo tonight? Take your time, figure out what your goals are and then do some research. Sounds like you are buying whatever is available now.
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You are correct, the bolts that I purchased were the metric equivilent that was closest to an ASE grade 8. I do not remember off the top of my head what the metric indication is.
Dragonfly
10.9
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I agree with everyone else above. If you want a V8 powered Z, then you've found your car. They have done all of the hard work already and you know it runs. You can now customize it to your hearts content and make it yours.
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'72 240z. I've owned it for a little over a year now. So far I've made the following modifications:
Tokico HP Blues and Springs
Urethene Bushings
ST Sway Bars
Swapped R-180 for 3.545 Gears
L28ET Swap
Wolf V500 EMS
T03/04E 0.63 A/R 50 trim water-cooled turbo
Supra 440cc injectors
1978 280z 5-speed
60mm T/B
N-42 non-egr intake
Under the car looks soooo much cleaner than in front of the engine. However, I will state that having a 1/2-inch spacer helped to align the turbo outlet with the steering shaft. If you are running a stock T03, clocking it straight down will not help - the linkage will be in the way.
wire gauge
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
http://www.rallylights.com/other/wiring.htm