ktm
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Posts posted by ktm
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24OZ, I found this supplier of surge tanks in Australia:
http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.php?products_id=123
Very nice looking pieces.
I went to my local custom speed engineering/fabricating shop next to my office and talked to them about fabricating a tank for me. He suggested that I let him modify my gas tank, welding in baffles and changing the pick-ups to 3/8-in. supply and return with AN fittings. Cost? Around $300.
I've decided to go this route instead of the surge tank route. By the time you throw in the cost of the tank and shipping, plus the second pump, you are around $200.
I am going to use relays for my pump(s). I am going to order my relays, wires, and connectors from Waytek. The only issue I have now is what Bosch relay do I order?
I bought a used Holley Red pump for around $32 that I will no longer need. I'd be willing to let it go for around $25 plus shipping if interested.
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Your best bet to achieve a good A/F ratio with SUs is to invest in a Colortune. Other than that it is as ezzzzzzz said.
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I read about your expansion tank setup. Unfortunately it would require welding, a skill I do not possess at the moment (though I have always wanted to learn).
I have figured out my mounting location. I have a spare set of the vertical plates that go on either side of the differential. I will use on of those as a mounting bracket for a side-mount surge tank. I will then run the EFI pump where Tony mentioned and the low pressure pump near the stock location.
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Well, I certainly learned something new. I did not even think about furniture dollies.
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Believe me, I searched and searched. I found a company in Australia (what is it about Australia and cars - they have all the EMS companies and surge tank manufacturers) that produces a variety of tanks with different mounting options (bottom, top and side mounts).
The easy solution is to mount the tank in the engine bay. There is plenty of room on the passenger side and you can easily locate the EFI pump below the tank.
The problem comes from trying to mount the surge tank by the gas tank. I see a nice flat spot between the gas tank and the moustache bar where a top mounted tank could fit. However, I do not see a good place (mind you I was looking underneath the car without it being jacked up) for the EFI pump since it should be located beneath the outlet of the surge tank.
Aside from heat issues and the safety aspect, is there a reason not to mount the tank in the engine bay? Is there another good spot to locate the tank?
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It sounds like the previous owner did not take good care of the car. This would lead me to believe that it may need a good tune up. Your problem can be caused by a number of things such as fuel starvation, weak spark, bad distributor, etc. I would suggest a few things:
1) Replace the distributor cap and rotor unless you know when it was replaced. You could be getting a intermittent spark or a weak spark.
2) Check your plugs and replace if necessary. I suggest NGK plugs.
3) While the engine is running, pull a spark plug wire off a plug and listen for a change in tone. If there is a change, that cylinder is firing. If not, you know that one cylinder is not firing. This is just a trouble-shooting technique. If the plug looks fine was replaced and the distributor cap/rotor were replaced, you may be looking at new plug wires.
4) Check your valve lash and set accordingly if necessary.
5) Check your timing as well and set accordingly if necessary.
6) Your carbs have a mixture adjustment nut on the bottom. Screw them all the way up and then back them out 2-1/2 turns. This will get you close to the mixture, assuming your carbs are synched.
7) Check and replace your fuel filter unless you already have.
8) Have you checked the float bowels to make sure that the banjor fitting, screen, needle valve and float are working correctly?
9) What does your gas look like? Is it clear or colored?
10) Have you checked to make sure your carbs are functioning properly? Do the dampers have oil? Do they have the right kind of oil? Are you able to lift the piston on the bottom of the carb? Does it return with a clunk (it should)?
Finally, I see that you are in So. Cal. Pop N Wood has a pair of downdraft Webers and I have a pair of round-top SUs I could make you a deal on (I live in Irvine).
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Thanks to a poster over at Classiczcars.com:
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Pop N Wood, by no means am I slighting Hybridz. I have found through my own experience, though, that the archives here tend to be lacking for addressing stock L24 issues. I am not saying that Hybridz'ers do not appreciate a stock Z, simply that other sites may have more information, as well as members who are more knowledgeable, about the stock 240z.
Hell, I a member of the three big'uns (Zcar.com, Classiczcars.com and Hybridz.org) and I routinely search all three places for my information.
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Thanks again for the trade! I am quite stoked, as that cover looks beautiful.
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Understood. Hybridz may not be the place for many of your inquiries though. You should really check out Classiczcars.com. They cater to purists such as yourself. This site is more geared towards folks who do swaps. I am not saying that you won't find help here, but there is a wealth of information on stock cars over there, I would venture to say even more information than would be found here.
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Convert over to electronic ignition with a Crane XR700 or Petronix system and ditch the points entirely. Hell, have I got a deal for you. I pulled the distributor off my running 240z as I am dropping in a 1983 turbo. The distributor already HAS a Crane XR700 system installed.
I can sell you the complete system (optical sensor already installed, ignition box, etc.) for cheap + shipping. Drop me a PM if you are interested.
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I thought so based on a few discussions I have read, but better to ask than ASSume.
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Very nice. I gotta ask, what's with the holes in the inner fender behind the driver side tire?
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The setup looks very clean. I've been following this thread and like how you've mounted it. I'll probably do the same.
I see that you used one mounting bracket attached to the stock radiator captive nut. Where are the remainder of your supports? I you simply using the inlet piping as support as well?
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I was simply exploring options.
Gavin, it's interesting you simply cut the factory injection wires as that is what I was contemplating in this setup.I have decided to jump in with both feet and go with both fuel and spark.
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Actually, the folks over at zcar.com are not Z car purists. I believe you may be confusing zcar.com with Classiczcars.com which does cater to purists.
Zcar.com contains a bit of useful information, especially about stock and moderately modified setups. Unfortunately, it is also rampant with tons of useless, incorrect and dangerous information. You have to know what you are looking for and have some knowledge of the answer beforehand in order to get any useful information.
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You can have a sump welded onto the bottom of the 240z fuel tank. While not as effective as baffling the tank, it is still better than a stock 240z fuel tank. A final option is to track down a tank from a 1975 or 1976 280z. These gas tanks are a bolt-on swap with our 240zs and are already baffled. Later model tanks will not fit.
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The stock return will not work. If you use the stock return, chances are your fuel pressure will be high. Most folks use the stock feed line as the new return and plumb a new 3/8" feed.
Another thing you can do (I am going this route myself) is to run a surge tank. You can use a low pressure carbed pump to feed the surge tank using the existing feed line. The return line from the surge tank to the gas tank can remain the same size as well. From the surge tank to the engine, you run a larger feed and return line as well as an EFI pump.
The surge tank's primary purpose is to keep from leaning out under hard acceleration and cornering.
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I see that some EMS are able to run fuel only as a piggyback to the stock ECU which is used for ignition. One such product is Microtech's LT4 system:
http://www.microtechefi.com/microtech-products.php?product_id=2
Has anyone used such a system (not necessarily Microtech's) in conjunction with their stock ECU?
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The easiest thing is to buy one of those miniature K&N filters (like for a keychain) they have them down to 1/4" line size. And cap your flow control vavle, or the stock vent line with the filter. This allows you to keep you gastank vented through a filtered air source. Many have done it.
It's funny you should say this Tony, as this was my exact plan. I have removed the flow valve and cut the line back to the trans tunnel, right before it crosses over to the passenger side. I am going to put the mini K&N filter there.
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The problem is that the line is actually connected to a flow (directional) valve. The line from the old air cleaner would supply the air when needed to the gas tank.
It sounds like the carbon canister functions the same way.
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I understand the requirements for the fuel lines. I am going to use the stock feed line as the return line and plumb a new 3/8" feed.
On the carbeurated cars, there is an evaporative emission control system that consists of a flow guide valve, a hard line from the gas tank, a fuel line from the air cleaner and a fuel line to the crank case. It is used for controlling fuel vapors. The flow guide valve is located on the driver side. below the coil.
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such as the flow guide valve and the hard line from the gas tank? Or do I still need the flow guide valve for the line from the gas tank and simply cap off the line from the carbs?
Surge Tank Locations
in Fuel Delivery
Posted
I just purchased one from Ron Tyler.
I just need to show him da' money now.