redneck1545
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Posts posted by redneck1545
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I made some more pics describing what im thinking about doing.
Even though it is not pictured I will have a bar running from the top of the main hoop drivers side to the bottom side of the passenger side.
Keep in mind I am no expert in paint and im not a great artist.
Things im re-considering
1-instead of tying the main hoop horizontal (mid hoop) braces to the reat strut tower bar (like dan's cage) i was thinking about tying them to the strut towers themselves. more attachment points for the car to distribute loads.
Reason- its a compound notch and pretty dang tricky for a first time fabricator to get exactly right and I dont want to eat up 200 bucks worth of metal over two bars I cant get notched exactly the way I want and more attachment points for the car to distribute loads.
2-running the lower door bars through the firewall and plating and tying them into the front strut towers as well to provide more forward support for the front hoop
Things I want to know-
If I made the front bar as pictured would it pose a safety hazard? The lower door bar will not connect at the upper most part of the vertical bar where the horizontal bar connects in an effort to get the horizontal bar as high as possible and keep the lower door bar as low as possible and thats the "leverage part im worried about, not to mention the front hoop would be nothing more than straight bars notched and welded at 90 degree angles.
Keep the ideas coming as im not wanting to waste anymore metal until I get some finalized opinions.
If I have to have the front hoop made can I get a regular tubing bender to do the job?
I got my main hoop mandrel bent and that was the reason for the difficulty in finding someone to do it for me.
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Nobody except Ross from Modern Motorsports sells this particular spacer.
I have spoken with a few machine shops in the area of which a few seemed intrested in machining these parts for me but prices vary widely depending on order volume and such.
If I get a set machined it will be for personal use, i havent thought about trying to gain intrest for anyone else needing these things.
If you and a few others express intrest I could possibly look into getting a few sets machined up and shipped out.
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Yea thats the route I'm trying to avoid for the very same reasons!!!
I actually have the specs for these parts now and I have contacted several machine shops
who have very reasonable prices for this type of spacer and may still go that route but who knows.
But im definitely intrested in your set if the price is right!
pm with pics and prices!
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I dont think I can do the front main hoop design as it would require me to take the car to an overpriced race shop (once again) and be charged for work not completed. ie- they bent my main hoop, quoted me 150 for the hoop then when i show up to pick the car up an pay they have a 400 dollar bill waiting on me because I they "had" to build boxes to mount the main hoop to. They ended up not welding the bar to the boxes afterall but still charged 400 for the work.
So I'm trying to take things in my own hands and have had problems finding reasonably priced and honest shop around the area to properly bend this thick tubing for me.
Since the main hoop is not an option currently I think I will just add the vertical bars and the horizontal bars as pictured ( at the door jambs of course).
Is it really that big of a difference between one mini front hoop and one created from straight tubing to make the front hoop?
If so I probably will eat the extra cost of having one made in the intrest of safety.
Thanks again
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It is the standard hub adapter for the 5-lug swap using the z31 hubs off of a 87 (i believe) 300zx.
its about 35mm thick
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I need the part anodized red in the below picture.
Its for a vented 4X4 caliper 5-lug swap.
Let me know what you have!
Thanks
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I honestly cant tell where its bent bad enough to be making that significant of an impact on wheel placement within the wheel well.
My suggestion is to take a plumb bob and determine if the car is "square" at the suspension points. There is plenty of info out there on how exactly to go about this process.
In any case its always a good idea to make sure the car is not in need of frame repair in the case of post accidental issues.
Depending on sentimental value and purchase price you might have a better shot and looking for a different chassis before you tie up a whole bunch of funds in a project that will never drive as well as one that hasnt been wrecked so badly.
But in any case check everything you can before scrapping the project. all suspension points, ie- not just the subframe, you need to look at strut housings, strut towers, aft LCA mounting points (not the ones on the subframe) and make sure none of these parts are causing the issue.
Hope this helps
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So this is what im thinking...
I know I suck at drawing in paint but the idea would be to plate in the floor to the rocker and then put a plate up under the dash. Attach a vertical bar (in red) running from the floor plate to the dash plate.
Then take the two door bars (yellow) and attach them to the vertical bar. For added side impact strength I would run a high horizontal bar across the underside of the dash (blue) connecting the two vertical bars.
I know it looks like the door bars are an equal "X" but I want to copy dan's design and incorporate the low front bar to make it easier to get in and out of the car.
My only worry is that the bottom bar will not have any side resistance in the event of a low frontal impact, or the attachment points on the dash will not be strong enough to properly distribute the load through the chassis. Is this concern warranted and should I rethink my approach to attaching these door bars? Or should my idea sufice?
Suggestions and solutions are welcome!
Thanks
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Thank you John and Jon. Thats some really good advice! I think I'll have to end up doing a hybrid of what dan has.
I just found out that he has vertical bars running forward of the firewall and that has other bars that tie into the subframe and strut tower.
I dont know if I wanna do all that considering has basically has a tube front end. What do you guys think about building vertical boxes for the floor and then attatching a vertical bar inside the cabin to the box, then attaching both door bars high and low to the vertical bar and have a horizontal bar running under the dash to the other vertical bar??? Basically what Jon has pictured with the miata cage without the halo or a pillar bars. basically a mini hoop made from straight bars i guess. Would that be safe??? I'm pretty much thinking the same design jon has except inside the cabin without tying into the front frame rails.
I'll try to get pics up of what im talking about tomorrow sometime.
I just think my idea would have no bottom side support as the vertical bar would act as an arm and have leverage in the case of a low frontal side impact.
My main concern is to attach the door bars in such a way that they wont rip through the floor should a roll over or side impact occur but also not have the extra mini front hoop, or halo, or a pillar down bars.
is this possible? I've seen people do this type of install with 6 point cages but considering im not going to be racing in any particular class I really dont care to "adhere" to rules but im smart enough to know "rules" are there for a reason and are usually the safest option. I just want to avoid what was mentioned above with the fender bender brain blender halo bars!!!
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I'll look into that option. Got any pics of what your describing?
Going back to the issue of mounting, which option would be better? vertical boxes or cambered(angled) boxes or plates?
I was actually you'd be the one to chime in on this subject!
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Im copying 74_5.0_l's cage design and need more advice and pictures on the mounting plates for the door bars to the front floorpan/firewall
Should I build boxes just like the typical roll bar boxes and then mount the angled door bar to it or should I just plate the floor to the rocker and then mount the bar straight to that?
Everyone I've seen with boxes for the front mounts has down bars and a halo or something similar. I dont want to build a full cage since this will be a street car mostly.
Everyone that just has a plate for these bars are constantly bombarded with comments that predict the door bar punching through the floor in the event of a crash.
So Whats the right thing to do? build boxes in the vertical plane and attatch an angled bar so as to achieve some shearing forces or build a box canted at the same angle as the bar so as to achieve direct force in the event of a crash?
Orrrrr just plate the thing like crazy and tie the plate into the rockers???
Ideas?
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I need a set of camber plates and top hats from TTT.
I'd also be intrested in some of the LCA's and tension control rods.
Let me know what ya got!
Thanks
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Cant really tell what part of the subframe this is or how bad its bent from the picture posted.
My thoughts are you have something more than a bent subframe if your wheel is that bad off of center. Bad control arm, multiple bends in subframe, bad bushings, etc.
Take some more pics
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Take it to a starter rebuild place and pay 60 bucks to get it rebuilt.
Cheaper than a whole new starter or a rebuild one from autozone or wherever you choose to shop.
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Ill be making one pretty soon.
Just find a sheet metal fabricator or do it yourself using a sheet metal roller.
Orrrr buy the one from MSA for about 250.00 and make it look stock.
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this is true...I've been combing this site for about 8 years now and im just getting into the metal fabricating side of things haha
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Doubt it. Depending on what v8 swap your using depends on fitment but for the most part shorty (center dump) headers are the norm.
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Save yourself some time and money and buy a ls(x) setup with a t56 and call it a day.
With a crate motor your buying "brand new" 60's-70's technology. They are not doing much more research on those motors as the focus has shifted to the all aluminium motors such as the ls engines.
I personally have a pre 86' SBC with about 400hp that I built for around 2k including all the machine shop work. I mated my pre 86' SBC to a t-56 and yes you need the adapter flywheel. These transmission are hard to find below 900bucks at best. Add in the $400 flywheel and you've got about 1300 bucks invested in a transmission. I've been piecing my car together now for about 6 years and I'm just getting to the point where I'm almost done with the metal fabrication side of things. I scoured craigslist and the classifieds religiously to find steals and deals to invest minimal amounts of money. I found my t-56 for $350 and a fidanza flywheel (the nicest one you can buy at half the weight of a centerforce) with a brand new clutch for $125. Now not saying those are once in a lifetime deals but keep in mind i searched multiple times a week on multiple websites to find these deals and then pounced on them like a dog in heat. haha
All that power has got to go somewhere like a rear end right? Most go with a typical r-200 with cv's. I chose to go with an infinity Q-45 rear end and the techno toy tuning swap which is about $1300 bucks. Dont pay top dollar for not top performance, in my opinion buying a crate motor is like buying a brand new car; as soon as you sign the paper its worth half as much.
Point being is everyone here has "number built" a car on paper and the reality usually is nothing further from the projected cost of the build. There is a thread dedicated just to that subject actually. Only reason I went with a SBC is because I already had built a motor. The 1-piece rear main seal engine (newer than '1986) do not need the special adapter flywheel and you can find parts from jukyards for relatively cheap. But if your going to be pricing a setup from the start and not have anything on hand my personal suggestion is to find a complete LS/T-56 setup and you will have one of the most enjoyable and reliable setups on the face of the planet.
You usually can find compelte setups with ECU's and harnesses for less than 3k depending on mileage. Much better option in my mind considering your getting a complete motor and tranny that will take the abuse for about half the price of your crate motor.
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That should pretty much cover it man...
Thank you VERY much!
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Yea the pic is off the brake options thread you posted a while back lol.
And thanks for the first measurement haha.
I know the thickness is 35mm I guess im just needing the center bore diamter and I can overlay the bolt pattern on top of the 6" blank when it comes time to drill the holes.
Thanks again.
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Are you using vented rotors???
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That would be greatly appreciated 280zcar!
I found your thread a while ago and have been following it since its creation haha. Im sure ill be contacting you sometime about your wheels and fitment issues.
My setup will be slightly different as I'll be going with coilovers but I absolutely love your setup!
If you can post the dimensions on here I can get someone to machine them up. If you know the material and type of metal too thatd be greatly appreciated as well.
I've contacted silvermine about this very issue but they need dimensions to do anything. I'm thinking if im going to all that effort I can just buy some T6061 aluminium round stock and set it up on the lathe for a while.
Thank you very much
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This is what I'm looking for.
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I'm planning on the typical 5 lug swap using the z31 pentagon hubs with the spacer for the rotor and 4x4 calipers. The only person I have found that sells that spacer that goes in between the rotor and hub is Ross at Modern Motorsports.
Does anyone else make or sell this part?
If anyone has bought this part from anyone other than ross that could point me in the right direction I'd greatly appreaciate it.
Roll Cage
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted · Edited by redneck1545
Ask and you shall receive!
And thanks!!!
why o why couldn't I just have stopped with some subframe connectors, new floor pans and did a normal v8 swap??!?!?!?
This has turned into an all out teardown, strip, sandblast, seamweld, metal fab, rebuild!!!
Dear wallet - I appologize in advance.