TwinTurbo

I left all power and grounds to the instrument cluster in tact, and just cut the tach signal wire about 6" from the connector on the back of the cluster and wired in the signal from my distributor. Good luck!

That's odd, I haven't gotten any email notifications since the last time I posted here.. turdlecharge - no subframe connectors, have a cage, but haven't decided if I want to put it in yet, no track times but do have bad dyno #'s, DR's are hit and miss weather they hook or not.. It will be interesting to see how they perform when I get my issues sorted out. happynukes - Really? I'm a shade over 6'1" and there is a lot of room.. Maybe the 2+0 have less driver room? I find in most cars having the seat all the way back is not enough, yet I can't drive the Z with the seat all the way back.. It has to be a few notches forward.. Firion_13 - Love the Megasquirt so far, although I am chasing down a problem that some other turbo V8 guys share with me, and the only 2 things we all have in common is the megasquirt and forced induction.. It requires a lot of reading, and re-reading until it all sinks in.. Going EFI was a great idea.. With a wideband, tuning is a joke.. Wiring was very simple once I had the wiring diagrams for the 300.. Yes, that little white blob is the trim pot, you shouldn't have to turn it very far to get the tach to read correctly.. As far as wiring, I followed the traces on the back of the gauge cluster to the connector and hooked a wire from there to the tach signal from the distributor. Cheers,

Thanks, I painted the engine bay yellow because it was easier to do before the engine was in.. I did plan on painting the rest yellow, but now I'm starting to have second thoughts.. Kind of in limbo right now about colour.. Cheers,

He he, that wouldn't get me out of the driveway.. Now if I had 100 people send me 0.63 cents, we'd be in business..

These are the only videos I have of the car in action currently.. They're last years vids with street tires.. Cheers,

Firion_13 - All the trim pot on the back of the gauge basically does is offset the voltage going to the meter to calibrate it.. Well, got my headgaskets under control (blew both of them to peices a month ago.. lol) Bought a set of Felpro multi layer steel gaskets.. The engine will melt and die before these give.. Good or goblin, who cares, I'm tired of changing them! lol Got a few tries at the dyno when it was here a few weeks ago.. Unfortunatly I was having issues at full boost.. The dyno loads the engine probably 50% more than it would normally driving on the highway.. I was having my spark blow out at full boost.. You can see it at about 5000 rpm it starts going stupid.. Turns out I was drinking too much the last time I installed my spark plugs.. 1 gapped at .031, 5 at .037 and 1 at .047!!!! I think the one gapped at .047 was probably a plug I broke while installing it and grabbed another and put it in its' place.. For anyone who doesn't know, anything over .032 is very very bad for a boosted engine.. Video of both sessions http://camaro.ath.cx/300zx/dyno/300zx_dyno_1.wmv http://camaro.ath.cx/300zx/dyno/300zx_dyno_2.wmv Thinking hard of taking it back to the dyno before the snow flies to see if the new plugs gapped at .022 will straighten stuff out.. It is a 4 hour drive though, so I may just wait till spring when they come back to the city for a day.. The car works fine on the highway, but again, it doesn't get loaded like it does on the dyno.. Cheers,

Had some issues and never made the races.. Portable chassis dyno coming to town this Sunday and I'm hoping to get the car preped and ready to go.. Cheers,

Hoping to actually make the races next weekend, but I have quite a bit of work to do before then.. I will try though... spdkilz02 - Yes, bought them through summit.. Cheers,

It's been a while, so I guess I'll update.. Got the Speedo reading perfect, which is a pretty good considering the number of gear combinations that could have been inside my transmission.. Got the car weighed.. It came in at a beefy 3395, which is actually 10lbs LESS than the average 2+2, non turbo, 5 speed.. The autos are 40 - 50lbs heavier again.. My Z28 weighed the same amount before I tore it down.. Installed a set of these: Very awesome.. Have them set on the hardest settings all around, but she still squats hard when I get on it.. Guess that may have something to do with these... (Happy birthday to me! Present from the wife) Oh yea, picked up a wing off a Twin Turbo as well.. I have my water injection set up, but am still working some bugs out and trying to source some Methanol to try.. Also got the Greddy EBC installed and boy what a handy unit.. Currently have low boost at 10 and high at 13.. Turning it off nets the stock 6lbs.. Don't want to go too far into the teens without some water and/or methonal to stave off detonation.. That's all for now... Cheers,

BRAAP - Figured you might be interested in that little bit of info.. Was going to send it along in a PM as well.. sweetride2go - Thanks.. Made my log manifolds from some stainless tubing.. Want to make individual runner headers, but that's a lot of reworking.. Some day.. Cheers,

Decided that I wanted the stock dash to work instead of trying to stuff a 5" monster tach, 5" monster speedo, 2-5/8 fuel level gauge and assorted lights in that area.. Took the tach and speedo out of the dash and they both had a trim pot on the back side.. (score! thought I'd have to add one) Built a square wave generator with a 555 timer and was able to set the tach to my Autometer tach.. Trim pot Tachs and circuit.. Also played with a hall effect sensor I picked up at Princess Auto and the stock speedo.. The speedo's pot does not have as big of an adjustment range as the tach, so I may have to do some fudging when I get it hooked to the trans... Other than that, still waiting for the boost controller and MSD 6A.. Later,

First time I've cleaned the car since I bought it I think.. heh heh.. Had it out today a few times.. It ate my MSD ignition module a couple weeks ago and the stock one I have in there now sucks.. Sputters, bogs, etc.. Ahh well, we'll fix that.. Oh, and shaved the ponies off the center caps too.. Maybe that'll make it work better.. Also have one of these on the way too.. My engine has been together waaay too long.. Kevin - Right now I'm running an off-the-shelf Performer RPM cam from Edelbrock.. It was the only thing I could get quickly with a wide LSA at the time.. Eventually want a custom turbo roller, but that'll have to wait.. Cheers,

Thanks guys, it's still a work in progress, but it's getting there.. The new turbos are T3/T4 hybrids with a .82 exhaust and .70 compressor housing.. These turbos should be able to support about 1000hp, not saying that I'll make it there though.. Once the engine is broken in and my water injection setup is on, I'll start cranking the boost until I get close to maxxing my injectors and WI setup.. Then back it off a little.. Cheers,

Yea, at one point the timing was running really retarded, and I was unaware.. Caused the engine and exhaust to run extremely hot.. As for the intake, I have an LT1 intake setup, but don't feel like converting it over to use a distributor.. I keep a constant eye out for the Holley Stealth ram setup on ebay and other sites.. That's the end goal.. Cheers,

Welp, she's back together agian.. Had it out for a couple hours yesterday just poking around.. Running at around 6lbs of boost and it is working well.. Hasn't see full throttle yet as I'm still breaking the bottom end in, but at half pedal and 6lbs it spins a lot.. Hard to gauge as the road is cold and salt covered so traction is just a pipe dream.. Everyone will be happy to know that this version has a set of forged pistons in it so hopefully I can last the summer without tearing the engine down.. Here is a pic of the new turbo vs old turbo.. Cheers,

Sorry if this is obvious, but I'm curious if the ring and pinion out of any short nose R200 will fit in my N/A 90 300zx short nose R200 case? Something like the 3.36's from the 350Z, or the 3.545's from the 1989-1996 Q45's.. I do realize that to use a 10mm R&P set will require spacers, but as far as other dimensions and considerations, is it a direct swap? Thanks!

Welp, I figured out why the car hasn't been working that well... and As you can see, the second cam lobe is almost completely wore off and the lifter is concave, rather than flat.. This resulted in the exhaust valve not opening and causing my piston to ♥♥♥♥ the bed also.. Explains the lack of power.. Not sure what happened to the cam, but whatever... Just glad to finally figure out why it's been working so bad.. Got it all back together on the weekend.. Only about 30 kilometers on it and it's seen 10psi blasts quite frequently.. Should maybe let the piston rings seat before I beat on it too much more.. Still have much tuning to do, especially now that I have a different cam in there.. The other problem is that the car leaves two black marks behind it and smokes.. Will investigate this further... Also been working on the hood... It's not quite finished, but good enough for some primer anyways... And I guess this is the current state of things.. I had the intercooler replaced with a straight peice of pipe to make sure that the intercooler wasn't causing a pressure drop, but has since been put back in and is working well.. Anyhow, till next explosion.. Good video footage to come.. Cheers,

Devilbis Plus gravity feed, 1.3 fluid tip.. Very nice gun.. Devilbis JGA-503 syphon feed - Second best syphon feed gun I've ever used.. Devilbis JGA-510 syphon feed - Best syphone feed gun I've used. SATA HVLP and RP gravity fed guns, not sure of model numbers, but they were quite a bit nicer than the Devilbis units.. Really liked the digital pressure gauge in the handles.. They were pretty high end guns, right around 1k each.. Cheers,

Heeeeeey, now that is interesting.. I'm going to have to look into this and see how pricey a set of gears is.. Thanks for the heads up!! Cheers,

I have the car 95% back together.. Just have to put 6 bolts back into the exhaust and fill with coolant and see if the POS over heats still.. I'm hoping that this will last till I can get a new block and maybe a good rotating assembly.. This short block is stock except for the cast flatops, which are nothing special.. I've been thinking hard on an aftermarket block, but I think I'm too cheap to spend a couple K on just a block.. I don't even want to spend 2k on a block, some rods and pistons.. ha ha.. Don't like spending money on something that isn't going to make me go faster.. Cheers,

Well, think I found out why my car was overheating and pressurizing the coolant system.. The hole that the threads pulled out of had a raised area all around it and was evident in the gasket.. I'm thinking that the last time I torqued it down that it distorted the block and was causing a leaking situation under mainly boost conditions.. Anyways, I managed to file it down and install a heli-coil.. The heads are bolted back on, but that's it.. Going to pick up another block and start getting it machined.. This one is garbage.. Cheers,

Heh, it gets really frustrating at times.. 1 step forward, 5 steps back.. Hard to make any progress this way.. Oh well, goes with the territory I guess.. Cheers,

You don't want to know.. I have the motor stripped down to the bare block chasing a heating problem causing my upper rad hose to blow off.. /sigh.. Went to torque the heads back on and a bolt pulled the threads out at only 40 ft-lbs.. Just picked up a heli-coil today, may get it put in this weekend.. Cheers,

I thought about polishing them, but that's waaaaay too much work.. I think the offset on these rims is +24, but don't quote me on that.. Thanks,

DavyZ - The rims are 17 x 8's and were a good price.. I plan on running the MT 275 ET Drag radials on them.. Scottie-GNZ - The engine N/A pulls all the way to 6500. The problem is that the turbines are so restrictive that at 5300 RPM the engine just cannot push the amount of air it needs to keep going up the rpm range through the turbos.. Other people that have similar setups have similar results.. Cheers,