Tim240z

I believe it is the 4L60E. Tied into the engines computer for shift points and lockup.

Found a 71 240 for sale locally for $850. Claims no rust and runs. Located in the Los Angeles area. It's in the LA edition of the 'Recycler'. If anyone is interested, I will post the details....loks like a good candidate for a transplant (V8). I would jump on it, but with 2 Zs already and my truck I will be in divorce court in no time. Tim

Pete, That tranny is definitely NICE, but very heavy and expensive, because the stand alone wiring harness that you have to run with it has to be custom programmed to the specs of the vehicle and the wiring and computer alone is over $1500.00 from Jet performance products Hey 383 240Z, I noticed that you commented on their prices, but the 700R4 high performance unit is very reasonable, considering what they promise it can do...Does the company stand behind their product? and do they deliver what they promise? Do you have any experience or have you heard anything about them? Hey Mike, Was your tranny new or from a bone yard? Maybe it was abused before you got it!! These trannys are used by many hot rod folks with good results? Thanks, Tim [i closed this topic here. It's copied to the "drivetrain" forum and open for replies there. It makes it easier for people to search if we keep stuff in the most logical forum selections. But I realize this was Chevy specific too. Pete] [ August 11, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ]

Pete, That tranny is definitely NICE, but very heavy and expensive, because the stand alone wiring harness that you have to run with it has to be custom programmed to the specs of the vehicle and the wiring and computer alone is over $1500.00 from Jet performance products Hey 383 240Z, I noticed that you commented on their prices, but the 700R4 high performance unit is very reasonable, considering what they promise it can do...Does the company stand behind their product? and do they deliver what they promise? Do you have any experience or have you heard anything about them? Hey Mike, Was your tranny new or from a bone yard? Maybe it was abused before you got it!! These trannys are used by many hot rod folks with good results? Thanks, Tim

RadTad, My plan is to make over 600HP on the flywheel, and I was also looking at the T56, but I felt that an auto box would feed the power much smoother than a manual (unless I slip the clutch a bit). I decided to get a built 700R4 (4L60), which can handle up to 600 HP no problem. Also, it is much less than even a used T56 at $1400.00. That's complete with my choice of stall converter (I will get a 2400rpm stall), and there's no need to have a bellhousing protection blanket to stop pieces of blown up clutch from finding it's place in my legs. If you want to look at the site that I found the autobox, here it is....If any of you guys have any info on this company, let me know, 'cause it's a hell of a long way to have to ship the unit back if there's any problems. They seem reputable, but who knows for sure? Transmission Center web site Tim

RadTad, My plan is to make over 600HP on the flywheel, and I was also looking at the T56, but I felt that an auto box would feed the power much smoother than a manual (unless I slip the clutch a bit). I decided to get a built 700R4 (4L60), which can handle up to 600 HP no problem. Also, it is much less than even a used T56 at $1400.00. That's complete with my choice of stall converter (I will get a 2400rpm stall), and there's no need to have a bellhousing protection blanket to stop pieces of blown up clutch from finding it's place in my legs. If you want to look at the site that I found the autobox, here it is....If any of you guys have any info on this company, let me know, 'cause it's a hell of a long way to have to ship the unit back if there's any problems. They seem reputable, but who knows for sure? Transmission Center web site Tim

Ross, The spring goes on (around) the cable, forward of the connection to the carb, so that when you press the gas pedal, the spring collapses a little before the cable begins to pull. As for the amount of travel on the carb linkage, you can make a bracket with the appropriate amount of travel, or just buy the correct linkage. PAW or Summit carry them. The correct adjustment is made by connecting everything and holding down the lock mechanism on the TV cable, then turn the throttle linkage to WOT, then locking the mechanism. When you then release the throttle, the cable should remain somewhat taught. If not then the linkage isn't providing the correct ratio. The spring just lets the revs climb a bit higher before the TV cable begins to pull, thereby increasing the shift point. If you have a shift kit, then the spring is moot. Tim

Jason, In answer to the trans cooler question.... In my opinion, you would be better off using an after market cooler, mounted in front of the radiator (you can never have too much cooling for the transmission), but if you want use the in radiator cooler, then just get some trans cooler hard line from the parts store and bend it to shape. Grab the fittings from a junk yard and slide them on to the lines and then flare the lines on each side. If you don't own a flaring tool, get one from Summit or a good quality supplier (the ones at the chain parts stores are crappy...made in Taiwan or China...they are very poor quality and you won't be happy). You can expect to pay about $30 - $40 for a good set, as opposed to the $8 at Pep Boys or NAPA. Make sure you check which side is out and which is in on the transmission. I think top is out . Good luck with your project. As for the TV cable hookup...a good trick shown to me by Gene at AutoRite transmissions in Burbank CA (He has had articles issued in the hot rod magazines), was to put a spring on the cable, forward of where it mounts to the carb. This increases the shift point. Works great!! I used this with my 200R4, but it should also work on the 700R4. Tim

Man, Someone is bidding the hell out of those turbos on e-bay (after I hit $500 and was automatically outbid, I gave up). Looks like a nice setup! Although those manifolds look awfully restrictive! Tim

Thanks for all the information and sources of information, guys. I am planning on giving this project the go-ahead. I will probably spend a week or so calling around to get some information from some or all of these sources listed in these posts, and I will take lots of pictures and let you guys know how it's going. If anyone at all is interested in this project, let me know and I will make double of any specialized fabricated pieces which I will have to make (mainifolds ect) so I can get them copied as necessary without tearing the car apart. As it stands now: The car is bear shell, except for rear suspension (so I can pick up the car at the front and move it around). I have a sbc (complete but in need of building for the turbo setup) which I will use for a mockup dummy to fabricate all the necessary pieces. I estimate that by Xmas, I will have the turbos set up, if only as a mockup, anyway. I am still undecided as to whether I should use a TH400 (which I have already), or order a 600HP capable 700R4 (4L60), or get a T56 ($2000.00 used complete, or $3500.00 new complete from Chevrolet). I figure that with a hot cam, the overdrive for the second/third choice will be unnecessary (as the low revs will bring the engine off the torque peak and will probably bog down), and I am not going to be using this as a daily driver, but on the other hand, the overdrive might be nice?!?!? Any suggestions or comments? Tim

Thanks for the comments guys. I was beginning to get a little concerned about this project and was contemplating just slapping together a 500hp N/A V8, but I keep thinking about the turbos.....Can't help but think it would be a fun project. Since I have a second 73 240 to buzz around with in the mean time, I will take my time and fab up a TT setup....At this point the HP potential is unimportant, this will end up being a feasibility study. Once I shoehorn everything in, I will worry about HP. I am going to stick with the Carb setup for now. Tim [ August 06, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

Thanks for the input guys, It is nice to hear both sides of the story. I think I will call AZ -Z for myself and get the scoop.....Again thanks for the unemotional response, all the things that I have read before have been pretty charged. Tim

I have looked at the Arizona Z web site, and I like their glass body parts, especially the Pantera hatch and front fenders and hood. I did a search and have found some unflattering comments on Arizona Z, both quality issues and customer service. Are there any other places to get these kind of parts, esp. the Pantera hatch? I would like to find a place in So.Cal. so that I can pick up and not get ripped a new one for shipping. Is the Arizona Z stuff that bad? Does anyone have anything good to say about them? Thanks for the info.... Tim

James, Obviously compression has something to do with the equation, but you'll find that most of your power gains come from the top end - heads, cam, and inlet, and headers are of course a given. Put your money towards your heads, 'cause that is where you will realise the most power gains. The setup on my truck, mentioned above, cost me less than $1500.00 and puts out in the range of 375 hp. Used an L82 corvette cam grind and a HEI distributer. Works really nicely. A stock bottom end will handle it as long as you don't RPM the engine. The power comes in early, so there is no need to rev the hell out of it. Tim

Oh, as for the transmission, if you're not running serious HP, then the 200R4 is a good choice. It is the same overall size as the TH 350 and has a nice deep overdrive. The torque converter locks in 4th,and although the lock up is electronically controlled, there is a simple wiring exercise, which will lock it up as soon as it shifts to 4th. I have an article somewhere, written by Gene of Autorite Transmissions in Burbank, CA on how to cross the wires. (If you are interested, I can find you the article or get you Gene's number.)These transmissions came on a bunch of Chevys and Buicks and have a universal bell housing bolt pattern, so will bolt up to just about any GM small block. They are easier to find at junk yards than the 700R4, because all the Cabbies and hot rod dudes snatch them up. Tim

James, Although they aren't aluminum, the Chevy Vortec cast iron heads are the best bang for the buck. They are less than $500 for the pair from places like Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet, or Jim Pace etc. They flow better than the LT1 Al heads or even the ZZ4 heads. They have a different inlet bolt pattern, so you will have to get a new inlet (Edelbrock makes the RPM Performer and from either of the two places, they are only around $115). They have a 64cc combustion chamber, and if you want to run a hot cam you can order the upgraded heads for about $650. In a recent article, these heads with the above intake made 409hp, with only 9.4:1 compression! (see Sept Issue of Chevy High Performance.) I am running these heads on my '71 Chevy truck and am very pleased with them. Tim

Thanks for all the input guys. The reason I want to try the TT setup is because it's different. I have built several NA 500+ hp sbc engines, and want to do a forced induction system. I looked at supercharging, but all that stuff is off the shelf bolt on...that's no fun! My only real concern is the strength of the R200. Has anyone out there tried mating up a rear end from a 5 or 7 series BMW? I know that they are plenty strong! I have a good seasoned 4 bolt block from an old truck (early '70s), and will put in a Scat steel crank and good rods and pistons. I also already have a set of HP GM heads and a 750 Holley. The only other problem may be setting up a system that increases fuel pressure as the boost increases, so that the pressure of the air charge doesn't push the fuel back to the tank. The needle and seat will only take 8 or 9 lbs of fuel pressure. As soon as the boost gets to about 6 or 7 lbs, it will begin to lean out the mixture...and that spells problems. Does anyone know of an electrically adjustable fuel pressure regulator? thanks again, Tim

Thanks for the input. My Dad set the South African land speed record with a 'knight rider' generation trans am a few years back (238 mph over a 1KM run) with a 427 twin turbo carburetted engine, so he has some tips for me, but I guess I will have to do all the custom fabricating if nothing is out there already. My main concerns are: Will the chassis and rear end handle 650+ hp? Tim

Hi All, New login to this site, so hopefully you guys can provide some advise: I am looking to build up a twin turbo 350 sbc to put into my 73 240. The vehicle is completely stripped to bare body now and I have an engine to use as a fitting dummy for now. this is what I want to do: Get a couple of turbos from a 900 SAAB or something similar. I will make up some manifolds and will run a 750 double pumper. This will be mated to a 700R4 which is guaranteed to 600hp. With the 150hp nitrous kit which I have, the combination should be good for 500 to 550 hp at the back wheels. has anyone tackled this before or have any comments one way or another. Also, will the 200 diff from a turbo 280 be able to handle the torque and horsepower? Thanks Tim