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Posts posted by MAG58
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They still have problems with anything that says Lucas on it....
You know why the British drink warm beer, right? Because Lucas made the refrigerator!
Anyway, I feel if they did come with a manual, it's going to be super rare, I looked at this motor once and I couldn't find one.
However, the transmission does look like it has a removable bell-housing, this is from an XJ8
And I don't think that an all alloy SBC would be cheaper. Alloy blocks aren't cheap. MAYBE an LS1, but I've seen these motors go for pretty cheap on eBay.
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I'm really excited for this, pics are a must, this conversion looks very promising!
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A good stand alone is a great tool, the rest of the rubbish can go
The man makes complete sense.
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http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/waterinjection.html#calc
Again, from looking at this, 6 120cc injectors would support 1000hp, the big limiting factor is you'd have to use two pumps
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Hmm... I gotta find my calculator for determining the correct amount of H20/Meth to spray, you'll be surprised to know it's quite a bunch.
Not to say your idea is wrong, actually I'm very in favor of it since from the design you talk about it seems to be a very good atomizing implementation, just they may not be as small of injectors as you think...
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Paul, let me know how many you're still short when everyone has their stuff. I've probably got a box of them at my folk's house... Just gotta find it..
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A feat that I will probably never be able to duplicate...
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Your idea would be great, the problem with headlight squirters is that they're designed to spray into a non-pressurized environment. You're talking major flow going into twice the pressure it was designed for (1bar+), it just seems a little risky to trust a squirter on a multiple thousand dollar engine build. Just me. Provided you can get a pump to flow enough, panzerace, you'll be good to go.
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I had that problem hoov, turned out it was my master, it didn't allow all the fluid to bleed off the rear system.
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Only Miami could produce that kind of.... thing.
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That would be a sweet Idea. I think the problem with the idea of using a headlight squirter is that it simply cant flow that much at the required pressure to be useful. If you look at real meth pumps they dwarf most window squirter pumps. Not to mention the gauge wire they run
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My local true value has all the nissan key blanks, oddly enough. There's LH & RH keys along with a barrage of slot widths to accompany them. I just took it in and matched it up to the corresponding blank.
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Take a (22?)mm wrench and unbolt the bolts from the top.
Should be under the trusses next to the strut towers.
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Go to the eye doctor please. I had the same thing, they wash out your eyes and all is good. Blindness is a bad thing.
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Lapping refers to "hand seating" the valves if you will. A lapping compound (basically grease with some grit mixed in) is applied to either the seat or the valve, then the valve is inserted and spun against the face. In doing so, the lapping compound makes a small 'cut' if you will on both the valve face and seat ensuring that both have 360 degrees of contact and the best possible sealing.
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You could use Carbon Fiber... That would be hot.
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This is what happens when we get such reliable cars!
But seriously, It is sad. Unfortunately, Like jeff said, auto parts is a business (and a big one at that) and it's much more lucrative for them to prop up all the SUV's coming out of Detroit rust city than it is to help us Z owners out.
Different strokes for different folks I guess. Good taste is a rarity these days
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If they were lapped, they should already be properly seated. When you start to get lots of popping back through the intake or backfiring, I can tell you they're not properly seated.
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The biggest thing to get over when you first start polishing is dealing with going at the right speed and not using too much polishing compound. You want to move slow enough to be effective, but not so slow you build up alot of heat in what you're polishing. Using polishing compounds are correct, but getting too much just causes black smears and takes you twice as long.
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I can totally agree with that. The needen't be compared. It's like comparing a turbine to a piston airplane. Completely different beast.
But I'd like to clarify a few common mis-conceptions:
They're not as un-reliable as many think. I've seen and driven rotaries with 200k+ and they still all post 130+ per face on both rotors. It's treating them like a rotary that makes them live. Treating them like a piston engine and they die fast. People think that it's louzy that a full bore, 13B, PP rotary that sees over 10K (I don't care how you want to compare engine speeds, that's truckin') wont last over 20,000 miles. Find me a comparable 2ish Liter 4 cyl (comparable power from NA and equal combustion events per revolution) that sees speeds over 8k regularly puts out 300hp on pump gas (rotaries either have 8.5 or 9:1 cr) with big ol' cams that does see that kind of engine life and I will be surprised.
Rotary power curves are different too. They're less parabolic, and tend to make all their power at the top end, where they like to sit. Remember, the factory quoted torque curves for the 1991 Prototype cars placed the 787B 4 rotor at the top of the list. It made more torque than all the 3.5L V12 cars and more power to boot. (600+ hp at 7500 with 10.0:1 CR aint bad for a 2.6L NA motor in my book)
The only thing rotaries fall short on is oil consumption. Again, treating this motor like a 4 stroke piston engine kills it. Allowing a bit of 2 stroke oil in the motor to keep the apex seals safe means a little worse emissions but a much longer lived rotary. Beyond that, it's all about preference, and if I had the money, I'd put a 3 or 4 rotor in a Z in a heart beat. The 2 rotor weighs just over 200lbs. That's a power-to-weight ratio I can get behind.
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I feel you all believe that this is going to be an all out balls to the wall, slobbering monster. I'm just trying to get a head the L28 for cheaper than the price it takes to do a full port and polish on a standard L head. Then it would be economical enough to consider. If that's the case, all that money you had to dump putting a different motor in there could be used for useful things, like turbo's and bottom end
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All that aside, I'll have updates when the engine is running, and probably a how-to. There are too many people here who feel this is a sensitive subject to just be gradual about it. That said, The DOHC L is going into a different project (just you wait) Because I'm attempting to put the whole M104 in my 240Z, it's just too pretty to say no!.
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This turbo, however looks like it's electronically controlled, and if you had the computer to run it, you could end up having a turbo setup with crazy fast spool and awesome response and still put out big numbers. I'm excited.
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I think they can be compared, eccentric shaft speed vs. crank speed, because pistons move at vastly different speed than the crankshaft, and equally rotor speed is different than the eccentric shaft. Just because a big name magazine says that the rotor spins once for every 3 eccentric shaft revolutions doesn't mean it's still not spinning that RPM. That's not what they're saying either. Would you have a piston speed gauge in your car as opposed to a tach? I doubt it, and if you do I'd like to see it. If you want to compare the two, compare rotor speed to apex seal tip speed and compare eccentric shaft speed to crankshaft speed. There's no need to get hostile.
I don't understand why when some engine or idea goes against accepted norms that have been around for a while they get all indignant and defensive. What makes everyone think they've been doing it right for all this time? If you quote wins, they've only been winning against themselves...
Is a cam what I need?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Man makes sense. I usually don't like the American V8, but it's very hard to ignore the results. Americans have been going fast in a straight line for years, and they've become good at it. I know if I was making a drag car that's the route I'd be taking. Any more, it would be equally as easy to toss a SBC with a worked over auto as it would be to toss in a high strung L6.