piper5177

It's actually the tunnel at Williams between Reddy and Dianna. The houses are on Thornton which is right between the Bayview and HP. I am a commercial plumbing estimator and one of my clients has their office right there. I had seen the tunnel a bunch of times and wanted to shoot it. I know the graffiti you are talking about, I used to drop a co-worker off down my there a while back and he would always kid me about being in the neighborhood. I've been looking for a spot to shoot my car with the new wheels, maybe that would work. I have a little bit of a drive to get up there though. I live in Santa Clara but my office is in South San Fran. zguy, have you tried tone mapping software like Photomatix? It makes HDR look really good. Are the shots of the Civic done in camera?

Not necessarily an accident, I was hoping a train was going to come by while I was doing it and grabbed one shot while it was going through. I wasn't sure if I was goingt to leave the exposure in the group but decided to do it after I saw the result.

Fast computer with lots of memory so it only takes a couple minutes. Wow, that guy Val takes some amazing stuff! If I only had the time to shoot more...someday.

Here is an 11 exposure HDR I took of the lone Cypress in Carmel. I try to keep my HDR stuff looking fairly realistic and not washed out. I was able to keep the highlights and the dark spots in this one. I have a D50 so it has to all be done manually. The second shot is in Hunter's Point San Francisco. It was shot at noon and the tunnel would have been completely black with the houses blown out, but with 11 shots I got the full light range and tweaked it to look like it did when I shot it. The train snuck into one of my under exposed shots and I decided to leave it in and thought it came out pretty well. With the new baby I haven't had a lot of time to get out shooting, but I just got a new Nikon VR zoom lens and am itching to play with it.

I am running that setup with triple Webers and a Schneider stage 3 cam with an E31 head. I am running through a 79 five speed and r200 diff and get around 165 to the wheels on 91 octane. I can squeeze another 10-15 HP with more aggressive timing on 110. My limitation is the head flow. With a good port and polish, big valves, a stage IV or V and dyno tuning 190 at the wheels should be doable. For the street I don't know if revving that high to get that power is going to benefit you though, not to mention the cost of the head work to get there. My setup works pretty well for canyon/mountain driving and autox. I keep up with my buddy's 1993 Carrera on everything but the freeway and I can take him when the road gets crooked, but that may just be driver ability.

My bad...I should read more thoroughly instead of scanning sometimes.

I believe that is the cam Tony D was talking about. It's got a longer duration than any of the ones on the table. I don't know the exact specs on it but I'm sure Tony does.

Damn....and I actually like the way that ZX looks! Does it pass emmissions?

Hmmm, my mom has an S80 T6 twin turbo....."Yeah mom, that Nissan L6 has always been in your Volvo. Oh Nissan bought them out years ago.... :flamedevi "

If anyone has this setup and is willing to part with it send me a PM. That is some oldschool sweetness that I would be willing to pay for. Looks like the brake system gets a little relocation and new vacuum ports.

Don't let Tony D see that!

I have personally experienced mismatching the cam towers when I had two heads apart and got one tower from a different head mixed up (they were marked similarly) and they were slightly off, just enough to produce friction instead of the cam spinning freely. I didn't even think of installing it this way because I am sure it would have ruined the head. As I said above, I can theoretically see using a full set of towers on a different head because the mating surfaces on both the head and the towers should be even. The towers are definitely a matched set. I have also reused a used cam and rockers from a different head on a new head without resurfacing and the new path of wear for the rockers on the cam was different between the two heads. Since there is a ridge between the old wear pattern and the new wear pattern there was increased wear on the small section that had more metal on it. Both the cam and the rockers wore unevenly until an even surface was created. There was definitely more metal lost because of this and the valves were slightly out of adjustment once it wore down. I am not saying my way is gospel but from everything I have seen others do, done, or read it is the "proper" way to do it.

You can do it without resurfacing, but the cam and rockers will wear much faster. If you don't mind adjusting your valves often or the possibility of flattening a cam lobe then don't worry about resurfacing. For the small amount of money and elbow grease you are better off having them resurfaced. Also, if you are going through the trouble just get the hotter cam grind. The lash pads are assuming the top of the head hasn't been messed with. I know machinists who would cringe at the thought of switching cam towers from different heads. The cam towers are machined to line up perfectly for the oil races on a given head and if they don't there is a lot of friction and heat build up on the cam (i.e. bad for the engine). I guess if you are using all of the cam towers they should line up, I would never mix and match them. Maybe I am anal about contact surfaces on a head but I'd rather do it right than just throw it together. I've tried that method before and seen cams with flat lobes after 10,000 miles (though it was a CFC stamp cam and not a Japan stamp cam)

The difference is not worth the effort since everything needs resurfacing if it's not new. You can't swap the cam towers since they are machined for the particular head they are on and won't line up exactly. If you are going to do it, the cam will need to be resurfaced anyway unless it is brand new because it will have different wear patterns. Your best bet is to have it reground with not more than a .460" lift if you are using stock springs and get a longer duration of say 270 degrees if it still has enough metal. That will give you a decent boost especially over the stock 280 cam. Make sure you get new lash pads, probably .17" or .18" thickness for a 270 degree cam and have your rockers resurfaced.

Yeah, a cam is going to make a huge difference. I have almost identical numbers and I am running an L26 block bored 30 over with Crane fireball, 2 1/2" exhaust, triple Webers, .460" lift 270/280 duration cam and forged flat tops, with a 6200 RPM power peak. My limiting factor is the lack of flow on my E31 head since I am running the stock valves. I have an E88 head with 44 mm intake and 38mm exhaust vavles that I am going to port and setup for 8000 RPMs to get a power boost. You'll get a bunch more out of a three liter especially if set up to rev higher.

What is your setup?

Me Just a couple of mine. I have a few hundred favorites but I'll spare you guys.

Does anyone know the cfm numbers at 25" or 28" on an unmolested E31 head with stock valves? I have one I am using for my street setup with a .460" lift 270/280 duration cam. I am hoping for 115 cfm with this setup for street use on pump gas, but does anyone know it will flow that much with that lift?

http://www.rotecradialengines.com/0RotecR2800/R2800.htm Here's what it sounds like (link on page)...not that good for a bike if you ask me, but at 110 HP better than an Evolution V-twin. The RC-51 motor with some work would hand it it's ass. Unique to say the least though.

Forrest, thanks. I've been looking for that for a long time! I hope they are going to translate the whole thing.

Know it's a Fiero because the VIN is for an 86 Fiero SE

I hate camo, but that looks sweet!

That is the baddest 1986 Fiero SE on the planet! $31,000.00 for a replica and still didn't get it?

They don't weld on more metal, there is enough metal on the cam to grind it to new specs (in most cases). You make up for the lost metal with the adjusters on the tappets. Isky uses CWC billits for their cores too so they are going to be softer than a Nissan "Japan" cam.

Where was this deal when I did my rebuild? I would have been all over this. I have too much time and money into what I have now to do this.