C Pierre

Quite the production ....... in more ways than one. Congratulations.

Wonderful work!! You may have been quiet, but it looks like you were also busy. Nice to see you went through with making the shift gate.

Jim, Thank you for the head's up on this. I found Richard's contact info on the Phoenix Craigslist as you mention and picked up a shifter (a very helpful guy). Gary

I'm really interested in how your transmission mount worked out with the Corvette bellhousing.

You didn't take any pictures, did you? I have a 75 327 presently with a turbo 350 auto and am planning a swap to manual. Just about finished collecting the parts to do the same as your Z. Gary

Thanks, you are practically a partner in my car by now. I have been watching Ebay off and on for a couple of months for Nardi wheels and adapters. My heart is set on the same Anni 60 that espeery is using and I have a Ferrari horn button ready. Unfortunately I just spent my steering wheel money on a transmission, so I have more time to look around. I may yet take you up on your offer. Gary

Your instrument cluster came out really nice! Can I ask which steering wheel adapter you used (and are you happy with it)? Gary

On the second outing this year after a suspension refresh I took in a local classic car show. I was hoping to see any other Zs in the area, but the closest I got was a 1991 Nissan Figaro. I talked to a lot of people who used to have Zs though and the day ended on a high note. Stony, your car looks killer .... what were they thinking!

I have an early Autobooks 240z manual that shows the MC the same as in my car. The 280z FSM for the car shows the reservoirs reversed. post Sept 1971 I hope that's the only difference ..... but I've been wrong before. I won't be racing, so I'm trying out the stock MC first and upgrade to a larger one later, if needed.

Finishing some upgrades to a 1975 280z and I have been reading up on the brake master the past few days. I have (almost) installed a MM rear disc package and went to remove the check valve in the rear line at the MC. Something didn't look right as the MC installed does not agree with the 1975 FSM diagram.. Correct me if I'm wrong, but it looks like a 240Z MC. Is there any problem using this in a 280z? The rear reservoir is hooked up to the rear brakes and they seemed to work OK last summer (when it was last on the road).

Looks like a great deal! A lot of work went into that car.

Since my boots were shot I tried heat, but the jam nuts still wouldn't budge. I had left the moustache bar nuts behind as I didn't want to try heat next to the fuel tank (I was going to leave the old bushings in if I didn't get the nuts off eventually). I agree though, the torch works great and had .......... up to the front end. 1975 280z where most hard jobs go without stress, but some of those simple ones

I used my new best friend today. This 3 foot pipe worked wonders on several problem nuts and bolts. I tried for a week to loosen the jam nuts to carry on working on the front suspension with no luck. I cut the end off of a 22mm wrench and fit it in the pipe -Voila! Along with a ratchet breaker bar, the moustache bar/differential nuts are now loose and I got the knuckle bar removed from the strut. 2012 fits and starts suspension restoration

I have to replace the steering rack boots on my 75 280Z (once I manage to get the outer tie rods off). I have searched and noticed some of the aftermarket boots don't fit that well. Has anyone used the Motorsport boots? Motorsport Auto On the other hand, are the OEM parts worth the (2X +) price for fit, quality and/or ease of installation? That last feature is becoming more important What started out as a rear brake conversion is now a suspension updating.

Hi Joe, I'm no Ferrari expert, but I don't think there were any factory 250 GTO Spyders, just some conversions of other Ferraris re-bodied. For my car, I found out details from some of the Ferrari forums around. There are some pictures of one of the Spyder replicas at Ferrarichat that you can see here (you have to register for the forum to see the pictures, but I found it worth it): 250 GTE/GTO Most of the Ferrari boards don't have a high opinion of replicas, but there are photos and information to be found. I've gotten Ferrari parts and replica parts from Ebay from time to time and reading through this thread on 250 GTOs right here is a gold mine of information.

What a gorgeous detail for your car! Did they start out as standard Dayton swept ear caps and did you have to do the logo as a CAD file?

I just went through this with my 75 280Z in my garage. Some came away with the hammer and wrench, but on a couple I eventually tried almost all of the penetrants, heat and/or freezing. The one that seemed to work was acetone and ATF. homeade brew I'm using it on the rest of the suspension and it seems to work really well. Be careful using it with heat, though, as it's flammable. CP super mechanic I'm not; I still had to cut off one nut

I had to replace most of the parking brake assembly on my '75 280Z. Thanks to 1 tuff z here I got all the parts I needed (and newly plated, too) except for the return spring (part number 36515-E4100) Appears to be unavailable from Nissan in Canada or the USA. Anyone have one laying around?

PM sent

Probably superfluous by now, but I'm in the middle of the conversion and took some measurements. +/- tape measurements All MM parts with 240SX caliper, but no brake lines installed. CP

This old thread video recommendation talks about a video (now available on DVD) SRSuspensions from ZTherapy. ZTherapy It's a bit more than the bushing change, but for someone like me new to the Z, pretty helpful. Your mileage may vary.

Thanks and I was prepared to go that route except I had the MM lines already. Ross got back to me and having the install instructions make all the difference. For anyone searching this in the future because of missing instructions: Modern Motorsports Rear CNC Custom Stainless DOT line install. The longer line is the passenger side line and goes direct from the caliper to the T fitting junction under your car. You need one additional 20" long male male metric M10x1.0 Japanese (not Euro) hard line , not included, ~$3 or so and a stocked item at any auto parts shop, this is installed on drivers side into the T junction and then to the shorter supplied braided line and then direct to the caliper. Do not snug down your outer line clamps near edge of inner fenderwell until you have the caliper and brake line all mounted up as you'll find the angle of the brake line/outer clamp will find it's own comfortable geometry and can then be snugged up. The 20" hardline item is not included as it would require a much larger shipping box for which the extra shipping volume etc would incur costs far greater than the cheap and easily available parts costs. As well, swapping ebrake cables left to right and right to left improves your geometry.

Does anybody have the install instructions for the Modern Motorsports rear brake package alluded to in this old post? From ancient times I sent an e-mail to Ross through the MM website last week, but no response so far. I have searched and found a couple of work-arounds for the SS brake lines, but the photo links are broken. The two fine on-line builds are quite clear on everything except the brake lines. I'm not a rocket scientist and the brakes are not a system where I want to wing it (bad things seem to happen when I do that).

Glad you had a good time in Calif. and Tenn. Resurrecting one of your old posts to ask: Are you still using the Arizona Z rear brakes? I am in the chicken and egg situation with mine. I now have the Modern Motorsport rear brake kit using the 240SX calipers. I plan to get Dayton wire wheels like you, but can't measure as the brake set up is not installed. I don't want to install them yet, since the 14 inch wheels I have now won't fit after (making it a little hard to drive). I've downloaded the Dayton template from another of your posts, but there is a lot of info to fill in. Did you go through the exercise before changing the rear brakes? CP PS Do you still have your MS Word project manual available?

As I mentioned in a post above, I bought a car with the 250 GTO body. It's a 1975 280Z with an Alpha kit (I think) and was converted in 1992. Not doing it the right way like everyone else here and building it myself - I'm doing it backwards. I keep finding things that need fixing and most of the time have to mentally reverse-engineer how the original builder went about it and learn as I go. I have the JTR manual that was used for the V8 upgrade, but not the one that came with the fiberglass body. Once the "need to fix now" items are done, things I would like to do: - rear disc brake conversion - 15 inch Dayton wire wheels to replace the wire hub caps (and tires to go with them $$$) - re-do the head light covers (cracking) and a proper metal trim - replace the turbo 350 transmission with a good manual one (way down the list) Present dilema - window roller was found broken on the driver's side. I have the new part, but can't get the stainless steel trim off the door (the roller attaches to this trim). Classic Z Car thread The FSM says the outer trim (with the window squeegee) can be pried off with a screw driver, but that's for a stock S30. Trying that, the inner part comes off, but the outer part seems glued to the fiberglass skin on the door. Before I wreck it, does the installation of this window trim on the 250 GTO door skin call for an adhesive? CP