Robftw
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Posts posted by Robftw
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Darn, all i have a set of is 15x10's
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Sent you a text
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Sent you a pm
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Looking for a fiberglass dash. Im located In buffalo ny. 14219
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Basically, i need a car with good paint and no rust.
Interior can be stripped / ratty i do not care
No Engine, Trans, differential are needed. Hell, you can even keep the wheels.Email or Pm me, rob_owsian@hotmail.com
Please include lots of photos and your location -
This is kind of confusing
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Quick question. I'm in the process of rebuilding a 260. The radiator that's in it is not stock and the front rails have been notched to accommodate it. I'm going to repair the notches and was wondering if this radiator, even though it's labeled for a 280, would work? I have found that there are a lot of parts that are interchangeable between models and this might be one of them.
Second question, am I missing the smaller coolant lines or is there a mod that's been done?
the smaller lines are for the automatic transmission. It's a built in cooler. I have an external one so I did not purchase a radiator with them.
as for the frame yes this rad should fit. The actual body has about 3/4 space between the frame rails. The bracket is the only thing that needs to be trimmed
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I've got this thing all setup in my car now WITH OUT a fan it runs about 200 at idle and drops to 170 moving.
I have a 160* t stat too.
I'm assuming with the fan it'll idle around 180
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It'll be a really tight squeeze and the extra weight up front will affect drive ability.
As mentioned above the oil pan will hang low and you'll need custom headers.
In my opinion you should just get a 400 block and make a 427 or 434 you'll save yourself ALOT of heartache.
Read this book, it is very informative http://www.amazon.com/Build-Big-Inch-Chevy-Blocks-Design/dp/1934709662
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Came in the other day,
Side by side:
These aren't perfect fits, you need to trim them down
Seems like an okay feature for the rare chance someone has completely cut up the front end of their car / tube chassis
easy enough to lay the old one on top and trace out the new pattern
I still did not install this, i am waiting for my racing transmission and then i will put it in the car along with the motor. I don't want to damage this.
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So i have a 396 sbc that makes around 550hp N/A so i believe i have a good candidate for radiator testing as *most* of you guys here don't have real high horse power v8's the car is nitrous ready but i won't be testing the bottle on it for the time being.
I purchased a budget ebay 3 row aluminum radiator (item #370627106773) and will be testing it out over the next couple weeks before it gets real cold, i'll tell you guys how well it works and how i feel about it, for $150 i think the small investment is worth it.
In the event that it fails catastrophically i'll get another slightly better one from ebay until i find one i'm comfortable with, hopefully it can be added to a sticky to help guys figure out where to get a good cheap radiator as JTR nolonger stocks one. -
I think the simplest way would be a spacer that changes the bolt pattern.
if youre running a skinny front wheel a 1" spacer with a new bolt pattern wouldn't hurt anything.
Ive used 1.5" spacers before on my rear tires for a season and had no problems.
I currently use 1.5" spacers on my lifted jeep. I take it offroading / mudding weekly and have not had an issue.
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I have a 550hp 396 small block I'd be willing to sell. But its not an ls motor.
its a 350 base bored and stroked. Pm me if interested in the details
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I had a 2600 stall on my 300hp/tq motor with a 700r4 it would break the tires free around 1900 using the foot brake.
14xx rpm is about right for that low of a stall, if that transmission has a lockup you should just go with a 3000, but make sure you have a transmission cooler -
Bump the Zforce guy still hasn't gotten back to me
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Just get a 700r4, its the same as a 4l60
All you need is a kickdown cable and it'll run -
I've never done it that way before, the coil could bind.
Are they dual valve springs? Just take the smaller one out if you have the tools and keep it under 2500 rpm
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For the valves take them to the machine shop and show them your parts, they will most likely measure it for free and let you know what size you need.
You should get some 1.3 rockers for break in if you don't feel like removing springs during initial start up -
Looking to buy a cowl hood in about 2 weeks time.
I need about 3" clearance
shipped to 14219
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Run a single pattern cam, they always. ALWAYS will make more torque and have a much better curve in relation to horse power.
Try this:
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 254Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 254Duration at 050 inch Lift: 254 int./254 exh.Advertised Intake Duration: 288Advertised Exhaust Duration: 288Advertised Duration: 288 int./288 exh.Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 in.Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 in.Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.525 int./0.525 exh.Lobe Separation (degrees): 108
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-201035/overview/
this was my old 355, it was a really modest build with a 700r4 powering the car, this is the type of curve you should see
This is a wheel horsepower dyno, so assume an additional 70 hp to the crank, the cam was 270 duration and .485 lift -
As long as you get the correct wipe pattern on the rocker arm the lash pad size doesn't matter
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I would call and ask what the deal is, and for a camshaft I would use it.
.05 on a cam is tolerable, I believe thats within factory specs
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76' no sensors near that area
Parts car body panels
in Parts Wanted
Posted
I've got a pair of fiberglass quarter panels, if you're interested.