Robftw
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Posts posted by Robftw
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Looks like IMSA 3pc tail, wide body rear fenders and one of those msa front bumpers.. I think they are called "type 1, 2" styles
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Sent pm's
Sorry r180s wont work for me, new motor is over 400hp/500tq at the wheels
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Shipped to 14219
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Saved 500$ going with an eagle crank, its .10 undersize on the rods.. factory regrind.
Machine shop checked it out and saw no flaws, I'm happy.
I might switch my rods over to scat I beams because the h beams are bigger in an already really tight fit.. we'll see in the next few weeks what happens.
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93 is 4.35 here.
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When I ran my car with a t56 I just used a wilwood mc, and oem everything else for the setup.. used a braided steel hosr for the hydraulic line. It is WAY cheaper too.
It worked great for 2yrs before I went auto, just a suggestion
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I was roasting tires with my t56 3.545 setup. 255 wide streets.
That problem solved itself with better tire, for 17's I would get some nt05r made by nitto.
Drive ability with a manual and that rear end is up to the owner, I never had a problem.
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Use dry Ice, let it sit 20 mins and hammer away!
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Robftw:
Which block, GM or aftermarket?
Piston manufacturer?
Rod manufacturer?
Crank manufacturer?
Cam manufacturer?
Hydraulic or Solid Roller Cam?
Rocker Arm Ratio?
What block machining?
Just curious!
Gm
Je
Scat
Acat
Lunati
Hydraulic flat tappet
1.5
.030 overbore and I will clearance it myself
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Try some gasket maker, they make one brand thats basically in a caulk gun tube. Ill get the name of it tomorrow.. I think it was firestonebfirestone branded. It should stick
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Valve train photo, part numbers if anyone is interested.
73925-16 Springs
75794-16 Retainers
77048-16 Locks
78518-16 Seals
86731-16 Locators
#73925 Dual Valve Spring
1.306" O.D.
0.676" I.D.
153 lbs. @ 1.810" Seat Load
400 lbs. @ 1.150" Open Load
0.660" Maximum Valve Lift
Pushrod guides are 5/16 raised made by allstar performance. They are 18$ on summit.
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7000R4 cost 2 or 3 times as much to build, 1-2 shift is really crappy ratio and take about 70hp to operate.
They also don't really hold up over 500hp.. i already blew one up.
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Th350 most likely.
Probably 4.11 if I can find a set for cheap. My friend just sold the ones he had. If not ill settle for a 3.90
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Ill try and keep this updated as parts arrive.
Currently waiting on the rotating assembly, scat 1-40900-Bi
4340 3.875 stroke 6" H-beam rods and forged pistons 11.4:1 compression
Heads are world products sportsman II built to hell with a complete lunati valvetrain max lift is .660
Hedman headers
Msd 8691? I think pro billet dizzy
Edelbrock tunnelram with dual 1403 carbs and enderle scoop
(Carbs will probably be swapped for holley 450s)
Cam is .241/.249 @.50 and .525 /.541 lift 110lsa 106lcl
Block is arp studded through out
Block Is a 4bolt main 010 high nickle content
Pic is of mockup, tracing out gaskets and removing paint for good sealing
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Also I highly recommend a transmission cooler. 700s run hot
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I loved my 700r4, if you have a th350 with a longnose tailshaft (9") you can just swap trannys and keep the same driveshaft
You will need to give 12v to the lockup on the 700r4 and get a stall converter. If you want a nice dd get an 1800.
If youd like to get a few quick launches yet still be dd able get a 2600. Thats what I used.
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Few things
* my jtr manual is on loan
* sold my 700r4 driveshaft before measuring It
* the th350 is a 6" tailshaft
* my motor, differential, and trans are removed from the car.
Could someone please post up how long your driveshaft is for me. I currently have no way to measure mine.. ill be shopping around for quotes shortly.
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Actually, now that I think of it.. I used to have an isky 280 mega cam. That was in my 355.
I loved that thing, I had iron heads at the time 10:1
Here is the dyno, 700r4 transmission and a 2600 stall.
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You should probably 10.5 compression with those cams, if its mostly street / autox go for high low-mid hp/tq.
Your car is limited to 5500 which makes all 3 of those cams useless, you're only getting half the potential out of them.
The car will drive like crap on thw street until you reach the optimal rpm for each cam.
Try for .460 to .480 lift and around .215 to .225 duration at .50
You'll enjoy it much more
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77 280z, part below the tail lights.
Mine is extremely mangled.
Shipped to 14219
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Are you looking for a complete dressed motor? You can reuse your alternator, starter, and waterpump that will save you money.
I'm looking at longblocks, not complete motors.
You said you wanted polished / chrome parts. Which implies you would be buying a new intake manifold and valve covers anyways.
As for your power goals. Build it yourself. Find a machine shop and get a bare block that has been magnafluxed, bored, honed, and line honed. Have them install cam bearings.
I got my block for free and paid 350$ for the service.
I had my heads rebuilt with new valves, seats, springs etc etc from lunati for 600$
I spent 200 on an intake, 550$ on a carb
Flexplate and balancer were 100$ paired
Crank was 600, rods were 300, and my pistons were 300
Oilpan was 60$ (I think) from kmj, and my msd dizzy was 350$
Lunati cam was 125 I think
Thats ~3600$ after misc gaskets. I reused a few parts too. (Alternator, dizzy, starter, valve covers)
It made 525hp and 647tq at 6200 rpm.
This was my first build and I sold it to my boss, its currently in his circle track car and has the piss beaten out of it nightly.
All you need is hand tools and a good torque wrench
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Well, most any v8 ia going to be 5500-6000 rpm redline with cast internals.. lots of variables with rod / piston / crank but I wont get into that aspect.
If you're more worried about appearance just invest in a dress up kit..
You can spend 6grand on a speedshop motor... or 3k on a crate engine and then invest 3-500$ in fancy chrome
Wtb 4.11 - 3.90 or 4.37 longnose r200
in Parts Wanted
Posted
Already have a 3.545, changing transmission gears so I need (at minimum) a 3.90
Ideally 4.11 is where I want to be cause of a cuatom stall converter