Team Zleep
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Posts posted by Team Zleep
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You could get a set of sport springs, then run camber plates (you won't have much, if at all camber adjustment) to drop the height another 1.5in. while retaining shock travel.
Thread about the plates:
http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/118307-new-bolt-in-camber-top-mounts-on-the-market/page-3
I did just the fronts on my 280z, and swapped the short caps to the rear of the car. I'm on tokiko gray springs and kyb's. I have more than about 2 inches or so of travel before the bumpstops (they take up a bit of room, they're uncut). I don't rub, don't bottom out, nothing. That combined with poly bushings makes for a tight little car. I sit at just under 6in. rocker to ground front, just under 7in. out back on the rocker.
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Thank you for the answer John! I guess I'll stay where it is . . . Thanks for the ofer TeamZ, don't toss them out just yet!
On a side note I went with 175 front / 200 rear springs with the ground controls and they seem a bit on the stiff side to me in a quick ride around. Next teir down maintaining about the same front / rear ratio would be to get a set of 160's for the front and move the 175's to the rear. Is that too soft?
No track work, just built it to enjoy around town and such.
Oh, no worries! They'll just be sitting on the bench in the garage. If you ever need em, just shoot me a pm! Free.99.
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I'll have a set of 280z rear isolators out of my car this weekend. You can have them.
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I use run cool louvers on my non-vented hood. Worked like a charm.
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Here's a few of mine. It's come a long way, and is far from finished.
Spoiler has been removed. Wasn't happy with the space between the hatch/spoiler, and I don't want to drill into my newish rust-free hatch.
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My KYB's and old (gray) Tokiko springs work GREAT.
Just install them properly and run bump stops. It's firm, handles great (everything else is poly or new), and isn't too jarring of a ride. For the price, it works fine.
My vote is KYB's (with good bump stops) and cut springs for your budget. Had that on my first Z as well... Was fine. Coil bind sucks, btw.
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POR-15 anybody???
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itd be nicer if you could put more than 2 wheels on the car...
none fit the s30...
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Try a set of speed bleeders. http://www.speedbleeder.com/
Totally changes the level of effort to bleed the brakes.
it's like the holy grail of brake bleeding!!!!!!
what's your experience with them??? im buying a set A.S.A.P!
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i did new rotors and the smaller 4x4 calipers.
just as Z-ya said... 7/8 MC, adjusting the rear drums, and a good system bleeding, and my breakes are freakin awesome!!
i've never really had a problem with them, and ive been mashing on them hard for the past... 2 years or so. i'd trust it with a track day.
well i need to bleed them again...ugh.
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believe it or not, that weight was there...from the factory.
it was from what i hear a "quick fix" for a vibration problem in some cars... not all of them. either they were lazy, or didn't have the time to properly fix it, and just slapped it on all of them.
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okay... minutes later...hehe.
i used to have bushings at the bottom of the xmember... but i was having vibration problems, and i tried putting the weight back on, and it helped out a lot... so they arent there.
and the washer that's leaning, i was gonna bend it to go with the xmember, or just hammer the xmember... but it hasn't effected anything. it worked out great, and was a really cheap soultion to my broken diff mount. no more "clunk" for me!!!
lol... notice the little red on the tranny.... just guess...hehe.
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alrighty! ill get to it, and get them up asap!
probably within the next few hours!
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another good thing to do (and is cheap) is what i did.
i bought some sway bar bushings (from autozone...the longest i could find), they were like $14.00.
then i removed the old mount entirely, and drilled the 2 holes corresponding to the holes in the diffy, and then slapped a bushing between the diff and the x-member. i used the washers that came with it to make sure it was the same height as the stock mount.
and bam, poly diff mount.
ill try to get some pics up, its raining hard at the moment.
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dude, you should be fine... enjoy it!!
oh yeah... what did you do for your return line for the oil? im getting ready for another n/a-turbo swap, and im looking for an alternative to pulling my oil pan...in car. ive done it twice.. and its a pita... but ill do it again if theres no other good way.
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it was wired into the "on" postiton on the ign. it was also a resistor in there... i forgot what size, but it was cheap from radioshack, so i didnt fry the csv (you dont really need it... but i did it anyways...) i eidnt even have it hooked up to the cvs wires, i just cut the connector off, isolated the old wires on the harness... and used the clip with the 2 wires...one to the power, and the other ground.
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the cold start valve is right behind the throttle body on the intake. it has a 2prong clip like a notmal fuel injector. I ran the hobbs switch on the power side of the csv, so when i hit 3psi, it completed the power to the csv. the other wire just grounds it.
so yes... there were 7 injectors.
tonyD informed me in a very good email that this setup makes good for 8~9psi, and i think less during the winter.
the csv is on the left, hobbs switch on the right.
and the csv is located where that blockoff plate to the right is.
hope that explains a lot!
*edit*
pyro, i had a stock n42 block... dished.
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i forgot to add that i had stock compression aswell... n42/p79.
and yes mull, you win...lol.
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i had my 79 setup like that... it worked out beautiful, at like 8~9psi, no intercooler.
-hobbs switch on the csv, set at 3psi.
-locked mechanical advance (set at 19~20deg. at idle)
-didnt really mess with the afm, as it cuts out by 3500ish rpms, and the 7th injector took care of the rest.
i should have upped the fuel pressure, but the plugs were nice and brown, so i figured whatever...
worked like a champ! and then sold it only to do it again in an s30..!
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dude!!! show some pics...ive been wanting to do that for some time now...
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she looks happy.
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what mirrors are those?
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just one enkei 92... 16x8?
i picked up 3 of them, and i loooove the way they look, but im missing one.
either one 16x8, or 2 15x7's...i could do that too.
i really like the lip on the 16x8's, itll look great with some camber whenever i get the car lower to the ground.
does anyone know where i can even begin to look? ive checked most zcar websites, and ebay, etc.
thanks!
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ouch!
but theres something learned... always check for the seal on the old filter!!!
Seat swap list for s30's
in Interior
Posted
I just finished installing NB miata cloth seats in my 75 tonight...
These bad boys:
Just a picture for reference. Got them for $75 from craigslist.. Really clean.
I had to use a 1in. spacer with the stock Z rails on the passenger side, and oval the mounting holes, but on the driver's side, I tried bending the ears on the Miata seat... and what do you know. Bolted right in. I opened up the holes on the miata seat bracket but realized I probably didn't need to do that, as the miata holes are larger. I cut off the alignment pins (could have opened the hole on the stock Z rails... Would have worked too) and the bracket that held on the seat belt and it cleared the cat hump no problem. I'll get some pictures of them in the car this weekend after I swap the miata rail back on the passenger seat. They move you up a tad, but any tall guys (I'm 5'9") could just do the seatoctomy.
If anyone wants some no joke mint 280z seats with rails, they'll be up in the classifieds this weekend.
The support is a great compromise of holding you in and still being able to daily drive comfortably. Best decision I've made for the Z so far.