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nix240z

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Everything posted by nix240z

  1. advanceauto online has beck/arnley inner, outer and seals. I ordered some a few weeks ago.
  2. Thanks...... I had a few hrs today to work on some small parts.. First I refurbished the side markers, including plating the body clips, new wire connection, polished the original lenses, screws and trim. They look brand new.. Then I plated the Radiator hose clamps. I also plated 280zx turbo cv bolts, nuts and washers.
  3. I am looking for the front side marker lights in amber color for 280z 75-78 with the fully enclosed rear rubber seal/ boot. I need the inside and outside of the main light housing to look like new condition with zero rust or corrosion. It is ok if the wire has been cut, All I need is about 6" of wire. The lens and trim do not need to be perfect just the main metal light housing inside and out.. Let me know what you have. looks like these.... thx Steve
  4. I just measured my 280z stub axle and it is 1.09in O.D, so you have the right axle.... I ordered from Joe at Chequered Flag some 280zx turbo flanges.
  5. Since the pics are gone, I am posting pics of the way I did my boots. pipe cutter #3 from harbor tool $20.. go slow and dont let the pipe cutter walk on you. You might get a small grove on the axle side from the cutter but this will be ok. Boot band cut in half. NOTE: I used a small Dremel cutting tool to mark the exact location of the parts as they came off the shaft, so i would know the location as they go back on. My cv's did not have a c-clip, the end was just pressed on. I used a 6" 3 jaw gear puller to remove the end install the new boots and reinstall the parts the same way as they came off. I used a 28mm socket to tap the end back on. On the shaft there is three places that the shaft was mashed down to hold the end in place. I just used a small chisel and mashed them back further after end was installed. Pack boots with grease and put the Boot end back on. At this point I installed a 4 1/2" worm clamp around the metal boot. This helps protect the metal as you start hammering the lip over and also keeps the band from wanting to bow out. I also put electrical tape around the boot to also protect the metal while tapping the lip over. At this point the lip is almost all the way around after tapping it. Small light taps will get the job done. At this point I used some aluminum stock I had to tap the lip the rest of the way down. I did so tapping and moving along the ridge. You could use a socket and get the same result. completed boots...
  6. Rebooted and repacked the 280zx turbo cv's. Waiting on the band tool in the mail, so I can finish the job. I even was able to duplicate the factory band on the metal boot...
  7. Thanks, its at a point now I just cant help myself... This weekend I painted the new brake calipers, gunmetal gray, also replated the new bolts. Finished the coilovers, replated the locking nuts for the struts and replaced the insulators. I also replated the 8 bolts on the R200 cover. Ground control coilovers with Tokico Illumina Shocks and new insulators all four corners..... painted the new calipers and replated the bolts...
  8. Ready for all new bearings and seals, upgraded to the 280z rear stub axles and plated the back plate. I will be painting the housings later today.
  9. not much going on with the car for the past few weeks, have been working 60+hrs a week. But I did get some new parts in from Dave at Arizona Z car....
  10. Complete set of 25 insulators is $150 plus $6 shipping inside the US for only a few sets then norm at zeddsaver.com will be selling the sets at $170 plus shipping. there are 2 smaller type insulators for the brake lines and flow guide valve that is not shown on the picture you posted. Send me a Pm on the insulators you need... I will see what I can do, I have samples and blems. I do have some blems that once installed on the car, the blem will not be seen. Steve
  11. those are mine that I make...I have the complete sets for the 70-73 240z. steve Each 240z fuel and brake line insulator was reproduced in a urethane plastic on a milling machine, which made for a very high quality master insulator. Each insulator is then cast in a two part high quality silicone mold. The insulators are cast in a urethane rubber with a shore hardness of 70A. The urethane has been degassed in a vacuum chamber, then cast and cured in a pressure pot for 24hrs. After curing for 24hrs the insulator have been heated to 150deg for 8 hrs for post-curing. It takes two day to make one complete set of insulators. 70-72 has 15 large insulators, 6 brake line insulators and 4 flow guide valve insulators. 73 have 14 large insulators, 6 brake line insulators and 4 flow guide valve insulators.
  12. No not at this time, I will add a post under the Vendors forum and post pics and write up of insulators for sale. 1tuffz(David) has seen a sample of the insulators and helped choose the correct hardness of the insulators, along with norm at zeddsaver.com. Zeddsaver.com will be selling the insulators via his website.
  13. Working on the coilovers... after pulling the spindle pins, everything else seems like a cake walk. I told my wife, if someone offered me $300 to remove their spindle pins I would pass.
  14. The lead is over the seams which will need to be cut out near windshield and rear hatch, just heat with torch and lead will melt away. On the spot welds, the way I did it was to drill small pilot holes for the spot welds, them I removed the spotwelds from the top on my car. On the donor car, I had the junk yard cut the roof off the car a few inches past what I needed. On the donor roof I drilled the spot welds out from under the roof so the donor roof was complete with only small pilot holes and I used these to reweld roof on and used 3M seam sealer along the rails. This is why you dont just cut roof off at pillars and weld on...multi layers. that would be 4 including roof.. original roof spot welds cut out from top. lead can be seen in this pic. spot welds cut out from underside of donor roof, will have to trim some areas to get to backside of spot welds as shown here. End result of a correct roof replacement.
  15. two pics of roof skin removed.... Do it the right way and cut out spot welds on both roofs. Take a torch and heat up the rear pillars and melt away the body lead that is in this area. Eastwood sells a Body lead kit for the new seams once new skin is on. Do it this way and you will be very happy with the out come.
  16. spindle pins out.... after 2 broken pullers( 3/4" pullers), stripped threads on pins x 2, stripped the threads on one puller (3/4 threads), snapped one 3/4" rod, welded one puller to spindle, cut one spindle and burned out bushing, 12 ton press and 8 hrs later then are out!!!! VICTORY. Ready to install Arizona Z car Control arms after I do the coilovers...
  17. Replace roof, 240z, 260z or 280z will work. Roof Skin has about 80+ spot welds... This might help. http://trueweb.tripod.com/Zcar/ here is a pic of my new(used 280z) roof after I replaced a sunroof...
  18. work is picking up and a vegas trip has not left me with much time to work on the car... Finished making all the molds for all the fuel line and brake line insulators and installed them on the car. installed NOS taillights and gaskets and new plate light... nothing like a set of new taillights, they look nice...
  19. The fuel pump is a NOS Nissan factory fuel pump with mounting bracket, hoses, clamps, fuse connector for behind the dash. The pump is for the 73's that had vapor lock problems. Back from a Vegas trip and ready to work on the car again....
  20. milling machine and a cast of the original that was in bad shape...cast in a hard urethane plastic...
  21. steering rack expansion reservoir prototype test fit on the car ... On most 70-71 cars this piece is long gone, the hole on the rack is a 10mm x1.0..... On later cars the hole is only 8mm and do not have this piece from the factory... I believe just a 8mm bolt in hole.
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