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jzd14

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Everything posted by jzd14

  1. hey guys, i need some advice and insight before i buy an autometer tach i've been looking at the 5" ones and looking at the mounting dimensions for them and i can't figure out how i would mount the thing in the dash? i know a lot of you guys have gone to autometer guages in your car: what type of tach did u get (model #, description) how did you mount it (in dash or elsewhere, glued in, etc.) i'm mostly interested in getting a tach that i can mount so it will blend in with my dash and the rest of my stock guages however, i'm open to all mounting options right now thx -scott by the way, i have a 240z...that probably makes a difference b/c of dash design
  2. WOW!!! I just did pete paraska's headlight relay mod - it's absolutely AMAZING how bright my lights are now thx guys for the info it looks like as far as reflectors go, i should prolly try either cibie or h4 lights - thx again for the info there do you guys have any experience with driving lights though (on your z or any other vehicle)...no one has chimed in on that yet SPIIRIT-I looked in my Haynes manual to see what it said about aiming headlights it said pretty much what u described but it said to do it with the "main beams" not the high beams is that just a generic thing that Haynes puts in all their manuals (not datsun specific?) or is there something else going on just trying to make sense of it all thx
  3. hey guys, my headlights suck!!!! I have a '73z and i converted the stock halogen headlights to h4 using a housing from a company called eurolite I have a GM 100amp alternator on my car and i bought some PIAA 135/125w xenon bulbs My headlights are still pretty dim though, and when i aim the headlights so the low beams are aimed correctly, then i turn on the high beams and they're pointing at the sky If i aim the high beams correctly, then the low beams are nowhere near correct I think these reflectors are to blame Has anybody ever used these eurolite headlamps? What did u think of them? I want to know what you guys have done to make your healights brighter I'm not just looking for brighter, but i also want an excellent beam pattern (for high and low beams ) Has anybody here used a different brand h4 conversion that has worked well? Also, any insight into the new HID conversion kits will help: Are they any good? WHat's this 2nd generation HID i've heard about? Are they worth the high $? Lastly, I also want a good pair of driving lights (i don't care what shape they are- oval or round or rectangular) I will be doing a lot of at night highway driving and want to be able to see EVERYTHING that may happen in front of and to the side of me Has anyone had any luck with a certain brand or type of driving light? I've looked at hella and PIAA but there seems to be just too many to choose from, and not enough info on them Hella has a really nice website that shows beam patterns and brightnesses for a few of their products but i can't seem to find those same driving lights anywhere for sale Your help is EXTREMELY appreciated Thanks very much, sorry for the length -Dutch
  4. hey guys, my headlights suck!!!! I have a '73z and i converted the stock halogen headlights to h4 using a housing from a company called eurolite I have a GM 100amp alternator on my car and i bought some PIAA 135/125w xenon bulbs My headlights are still pretty dim though, and when i aim the headlights so the low beams are aimed correctly, then i turn on the high beams and they're pointing at the sky If i aim the high beams correctly, then the low beams are nowhere near correct I think these reflectors are to blame Has anybody ever used these eurolite headlamps? What did u think of them? I want to know what you guys have done to make your healights brighter I'm not just looking for brighter, but i also want an excellent beam pattern (for high and low beams ) Has anybody here used a different brand h4 conversion that has worked well? Also, any insight into the new HID conversion kits will help: Are they any good? WHat's this 2nd generation HID i've heard about? Are they worth the high $? Lastly, I also want a good pair of driving lights (i don't care what shape they are- oval or round or rectangular) I will be doing a lot of at night highway driving and want to be able to see EVERYTHING that may happen in front of and to the side of me Has anyone had any luck with a certain brand or type of driving light? I've looked at hella and PIAA but there seems to be just too many to choose from, and not enough info on them Hella has a really nice website that shows beam patterns and brightnesses for a few of their products but i can't seem to find those same driving lights anywhere for sale Your help is EXTREMELY appreciated Thanks very much, sorry for the length -Dutch
  5. speeder- so i should bypass the 15000 ohm 1/2 watt resistor that JTR told me to put in line with the voltage sensing wire? i'm just curious, but why does JTR even make you put that resistor in? thx
  6. ok, i finally got the msd working with my pertronix...i had to ask around for a page convienently missing out of my msd instruction manual anyhow, i have a 280z tach in my 240z (i installed it like JTR said to, even with the resistor) the voltage sensing wire from it is currently plugged into the tach port on the msd i bought the tach adapter #8910 and wired it in and now my tach works for only 1-3seconds when i first start up the car it seems to be that the longer the car sits there without running, the longer the tach will work when i start it up...the max seems to be about 3 seconds though then the needle drops off i tried using the supplied diode and that didn't allow the tach to work at all i know others of you have had these same problems i'm looking for tips on what i should do to get this thing working...i will entertain any ideas i'm not ready to go the autometer route yet though, i want to exhaust all possibilities of getting this tach to work first thx
  7. i have a 240z with aftermarket springs and it's really low i want to keep the springs i have but raise the car up a bit i think i have heard before of some sort of spacers that came on the 280z near the top of the shock tower that can be used on the 240z does anyone know anything about this or have any other ideas of what i can do to raise my car up a little i don't need to much more height, just enough to stop scraping the exhaust pipe thx
  8. i looked through my MSD manual and it turns out that i have an earlier edition that doesn't have the page about hooking it up to a pertronix ignitor if anyone has this page could they please email it to me at jzd14@yahoo.com i would greatly appreciate it, thx also, where can i get the tach adapter that i'd need to make my tach work? -scott
  9. i looked through my MSD manual and it turns out that i have an earlier edition that doesn't have the page about hooking it up to a pertronix ignitor if anyone has this page could they please email it to me at jzd14@yahoo.com i would greatly appreciate it, thx also, where can i get the tach adapter that i'd need to make my tach work? -scott
  10. i need some help, anyone's advice is appreciated: i have a 240z with the an L28 from a 280z in it instead of having points, i have a pertronix 'ignitor' that converts it to a magnetic pickup i hooked up my MSD 6A over the weekend exactly like the manual said and i ended up frying my pertronix (i think it died the first time i tried to start it) i had an extra distributor with points so i through that in, hooked it up to the MSD, and now it runs fine i have the ignition wires (green-white and black-white) running through the ballast resistor so i don't know where the problem is my question: what do i need to do to get the MSD to run with the pertronix also, a couple months ago, i took my 240z tach out and replaced its "guts" with the "guts" of a 280 tach (per JTR) it ran fine with the voltage sensing wire hooked up to the negative side of the coil when i hooked up my MSD, i put the voltage sensing wire on the tach terminal of the MSD - now the tach doesn't work at all what do i need to do to get the tach to work? i had the idea that maybe i can just hook the voltage sensing wire back up to the negative side of the coil, but i'm not sure how the MSD operates to know whether that will work or possibly fry the tach thx for taking the time to read this, your replies will be greatly appreciated
  11. i need some help, anyone's advice is appreciated: i have a 240z with the an L28 from a 280z in it instead of having points, i have a pertronix 'ignitor' that converts it to a magnetic pickup i hooked up my MSD 6A over the weekend exactly like the manual said and i ended up frying my pertronix (i think it died the first time i tried to start it) i had an extra distributor with points so i through that in, hooked it up to the MSD, and now it runs fine i have the ignition wires (green-white and black-white) running through the ballast resistor so i don't know where the problem is my question: what do i need to do to get the MSD to run with the pertronix also, a couple months ago, i took my 240z tach out and replaced its "guts" with the "guts" of a 280 tach (per JTR) it ran fine with the voltage sensing wire hooked up to the negative side of the coil when i hooked up my MSD, i put the voltage sensing wire on the tach terminal of the MSD - now the tach doesn't work at all what do i need to do to get the tach to work? i had the idea that maybe i can just hook the voltage sensing wire back up to the negative side of the coil, but i'm not sure how the MSD operates to know whether that will work or possibly fry the tach thx for taking the time to read this, your replies will be greatly appreciated
  12. well, it's time for me to weather-proof my 240z, but first i need your guys help i already know about the nissan weatherstripping (way to expensive), my questions are more for the aftermarket sources i've been looking at the weatherstripping kits in MSA and Victory British and the other aftermarket places and have some questions for you guys who have purchased these first of all, these aren't the Precision kit in disguise, right? I've heard a lot of bad stuff about them and wouldn't want to get stuck with their product second, how did u like the kit? did any of the pieces leak? hard to install? did the pieces fit correctly? was the door weatherstriipping hard (so u'd have to slam the door) or soft? can u get the one piece left and right door weatherstripping through these kits (i've heard the one piece is better then the two piece? i just need the general info please your answers will extremely helpful thx in advance!
  13. thx guys... going the newer nissan route does seem tempting, but i was thinking of going with the GM alternator for the high amperage and the fact that i could probably find one cheaper does anyone have anymore information on the GM alt. swap...your insight would be much appreciated
  14. i have a '73z with an L28 from a 280z. i've heard that putting a GM alternator on would not be too difficult my questions are these: -what year and model GM alternator should i get (want at least 100amps) -what needs to be modified (brackets?, how?) -what aspects of the wiring will i need to change and how do i change them? -what is a fair price for a reman alternator and any suggestions on a good source for them? thx in advance for the help
  15. auxiliary- thx very much, that's exactly what i was looking for the diagram is very helpful now, does anybody have an idea why gas might be spewing out when i take the gas cap off?
  16. hey guys- i need to take my whole fuel system apart, flush it all out, and replace ALL the fuel lines it would be nice to know all the fuel hose sizes and approx. lengths before i get started cuz i won't have too much time to have the car sitting apart do any of u guys know this information for all the rubber lines from the gas tank to the fuel pump (including the ones to the fuel expansion tank): fuel line IDs and ODs approximate total lengths of each i will need a good source to get all these at (good brands too)? on a side note: my car has been sitting in my garage for about a week and it hasn't even gotten to be over 80 degrees the whole week when i went to take off the gas cap, gas came spewing out of the tank all over me and the ground it did it again when i took the cap off this afternoon and it hadn't even been run in between times do u guys know why it would be doing this? any ideas would be helpful thx
  17. jzd14

    tranny swap

    hey guys, i just wanted to pick your brains on a subject: i have a 73z with an L28 in it and a four speed currently i have a five speed that i want to stick in over christmas break my car is also lowered about 2 inches from stock and i'm wondering if i'll be able to just drop out the tranny and put the new one in without taking the engine out, or am i going to have to take the engine out? which one is easier? also, if i do have to take the engine out...would i be able to take it out with the intake manifold and the exhaust header still bolted to the block if i disconnect the header from the tailpipe? thx everyone
  18. thx for the ideas guys i don't have air conditioning on my car, so that's definitely not the problem i just replaced the belt too and the squealing is still there, so that's not the problem either the head gasket sounds like a good possibility though when i put the new four barrel on my car, i wasn't exactly sure how to hook up the various ventilation hoses from the engine i ended up hooking up the port on the top of the valve cover (the one that's suppost to get fresh air from the air filter) to the intake manifold i just discovered that was totally wrong i figure maybe some gas or something might have gotten into the valve cover and upset something so i think that will be the next place i look thx again i'll keep u all posted
  19. Bill thx for the idea i'm pretty sure it's not the fan clutch though i took that assembly off the car then started it up and it still made the same noise as for the idler pully, i've replaced that too
  20. ok...here's my dilemma i have a 240z with a L28 in it when i start the car, everything seems good however, when the engine temp has risen about halfway to its normal operating temp, a loud squealing noise becomes apparent from the front of the engine somewhere i've replaced the alternator, fuel pump, and water pump (all things i needed to do anyway) but the noise is still there i have no idea what else it could be i did just install a brand new edelbrock carburator on my car but i seriously doubt that it is the problem especially since the noise seems to be coming from the front do u guys have any ideas??? on a seperate note...i thought i heard somewhere that the early stock oil pumps are prone to failure is this true? and if so, what's a good replacement for it thx a bunch
  21. hey guys...thx for the help so far this stupid thing is still giving me problems though i think what i'm going to do is take the caliper off and see if i can shoot some air through it with my compressor...to make sure there's a passage through the caliper if no air comes out the bleeder, then i guess i'll just go to napa and get another one thx again for the ideas though
  22. the master cylinder bled fine...and i know fluid is getting into the caliper because stroking the brake pedal causes the pistons to move a little bit...nothing is coming out of the bleeder though
  23. the bleeder screws are on the top of the calipers...and the master cylinder bled fine...i'm not quite sure what u mean by pressure though...pressure where?...there is some pressure in the brake pedal but no where near enough to stop the car...and the pedal pressure could just be because i bled the back brakes first (they worked fine)
  24. actually...that was the first problem i had when putting the brake lines on the toyota calipers...the brake line wasn't sealing to the caliper...brake fluid kept leaking out when i'd stroke the pedal i had to file down the caliper a little where the washer seals against it and then get new washers to put it back together with all the copper washers are on there now though and everything is tightened well i know brake fluid is getting into the caliper because when i pump the brake pedal, the pistons in the caliper move a little i just can't get anything to come out of the bleeder any other thoughts?
  25. yeah...i thought that might have been the problem too...but it didn't help any other thoughts?
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