Z48LT-1

Ansel, Have you received the Summit oil pan and pickup yet? Did you order the G3503X? Any comments about fit/quality? You see, I have a similar situation but the engine is far from being run. It's a '95 Carprice LT1 that I got off ebay. I noticed some wrinkles in the sides of the oil pan that I figure got there from the pounding the oil pan got by the engine coming cross country (it was resting on the oil pan sump and a stack of 2x4s under the front of the pan). I was going to ignore it until you related your tale of woe, so I figure I owe you. Next time you're in San Antonio, the beer's on me. Now to hijack the thread since the rest of this is all about me. The Summit oil pan says it's for up to '95 but it has a dipstick provision. My LT1 has a block mounted dipstick so I assume simply plugging the one in the pan will be OK (maybe I'll just run two dipsticks so I can brag about dual dipsticks in my sig...), and I recognize this pan won't have the oil level sensor boss, which I'm fine living without. But the question is, is the LT1 oil pan different from Gen 1 SBCs in any significant way? Anyone know?

Cameron, Do a forum search on LS1 Fuel tanks and you'll see several members have used the original fbody tank in their z's. You need to wipe out the spare tire well so you'll have to decide if it's worth it. Gives you the oem pump, regulator, fuel return, fuel level sender, etc., including the original push-on fuel fittings, etc. Could save a ton of adaptation, etc. It appears from the photos that the tank wasn't damaged (actually, I think I'm looking at some sort of sheet metal surround on the tank because the tank itself is black plastic). Best of luck with the project. Gary

Agree with sack face, although I'd'a said "Buick". It sounds like you've got passion about the little V-8, and isn't that what being a car guy is all about?

Rob, Dremel makes a fairly powerful rotary tool (XPR 400 series) that accepts a right angle drive attachment (#575) which can use 1-1/2" diameter fiberglass cutoff wheels (#476) which can be v. handy to get into some tight spaces and will eventually go through just about anything, although you may find buying the wheels in bulk a savings. Having steady hands and a deft touch helps, but it sounds like you've got that down with the 4-1/2" angle grinder. The Dremel combination is like a miniature version of the bigger tool, and is almost ideally suited for sheet metal. Hmm. Glancing at the UK version of the Dremel site, it appears the most appropriate model is the 400 Digital... The 575 angle attachment is listed, but not the 476 cutoff wheels. There are numerous wheels available, including some that are extremely thin which shatter at the slightest hand tremor. Best of luck! -- Gary

I wonder whether the original model was intended for an RHD audience? I'd be inclined to put the stripe on the driver's side. Don't think it would matter if the lettering went front-to-back instead of back-to-front. Just like belly buttons, everyone's got an opinion, and they're all worth exactly what they cost you.

Many thanks, wheelman. Turns out a guy's parting out a '99 Camaro SS as we speak and I'm on my way to check out his fuel tank in about :15 (he agreed to sell me the tank and pump module for the $100 he quoted me for just the pump module). I found the thread you spoke of and it looks like the LS-1 tank is going to work out a treat (may have to raise my trunk floor a couple inches but that doesn't bother me for all the other benefits of this deal.) I intend to use Caprice fuel lines as they've got the right push-on connectors at both ends and I think it'll be a fairly painless install (some $80 from the local Chevy dealer for both feed and return, but it appears I need another kit to do the fuel pump-to-filter piece). I appreciate the good will despite not having a Datsun/Nissan Z car. I chose the "Z48" moniker because my first hot car was a '69 Camaro Z28 and I hope to make the '48 Aerosedan into a decent replacement. The other LT-1 forums I found weren't into adaptation like HybridZ is and I think it's way cool this wealth of knowledge and experience is so readily accessible. FWIW I'm using the Patriot 8019 block hugger headers which interfere with the knock sensors so I'm using the Telorvik knock sensor brackets to relocate them. Gonna delete EGR, AIR, canister purge, and most of the "info" sensors from the stock harness. I will be needing one of the ECM connectors (blue one, iirc) as it came damaged, and if anyone knows where these can be sourced I'd appreciate some info. I lucked out because the original front accessory drive looks like it's gonna clear after I hammerize the spring mount tower on the passenger side Mustang II front suspension setup to get a/c compressor breathing room (I did have to get tubular upper a-arms...). Anyway, thanks again. -- Gary

Hey, all, complete Newbie here. Engine is a '95 Caprice LT-1. It's going in a '48 Chevy, but please ignore that for now. Trying to suss out the fuel system. Contemplating a late model GM tank that'll fit and accept an OEM fuel pump/sender/return/etc module. Have a chance to get a '99 Camaro LS-1 module for $100. Any advice about what GM fuel pumps are up to the task? Where to look for specifications/part numbers, etc? How much pressure/lph (gph?) do I need, and is that all I have to worry about? Is there such a thing as too much? Any help greatly appreciated. There are some genuine geniuses/artists/craftspersons here and I am in awe of what you've done. Best, Gary