Regulatori

Do you mean my motor setup? It's a 3.1 stroker, triple Mikuni 44s, mild cr, and a mild cam. The car is in the shop right now and figured it would be a good time to add a new header (I currently have a rusty MSA) while the new exhaust is being put on. I'm also going to be doing headwork (maybe bigger valves), and a hotter cam in the next few months.

Mainly the price. I've heard they run around $600 or so (MSA doesn't have a price listed) and that's almost twice the price of the Nissan header.

I'm having a heck of time trying to find one. I ordered one from nismoparts.com only to have them email me back saying it's out of stock, courtesyparts.com is out of them, and I've tried contacting Rebello but to no avail (don't respond to emails). I'm either looking for a 1-5/8" or 1-3/4" (haven't fully made my mind) in chrome. Any suggestions?

I found a hub made by the Japanese company Works Bell from a company A-Spec tuning. The hub is for a ZX and costs $60. I noticed that the Momo hubs are the same part number for all of the Z models so I'm pretty sure this will be the same with Nardi. If you want to order one, contact A-Spec at 626-618-1100 extension #115. The part number is #601. I'll post when I get it and let everyone know the results.

Is the later S130 hub the same as the S30? I found a company that sells a Works Bell Nardi hub adapter for S130s.

thanks for the replies. I should have been a bit more detailed though. I bought the car after it was sitting for awhile...and the MSA header is in pretty bad shape (rusted, small leak, etc..) I'm also going to be doing some work to the engine early next year...I'm going with a lot more aggressive cam and headwork. So the header I purchase now is going to something to replace the piece of crap now and also go well with the upcoming setup. The exhaust tubing is rusty too so I figured might as well replace everything at once (header and exhaust). I'm kind of set on the Nissan racing header because it has large primaries and still only costs $350...I was just seeing if there were any other options.

I have a mildly tuned 3.1 stroker (high 9s cr, mild cam, triple Mikuni 44s, no headwork) with an old MSA header in my 240z. I was wanting to go with the Nissan Competition 1-3/4" header but after ordering it from nissanparts.com, I find out it's no longer available. I've tried emailing Rebello but I haven't heard back from them. Does anyone know of another online dealer that carries this header? Do I have any other options? I did a search and people here told another member with a 3.1 stroker to go with 1-5/8" primaries. I have plenty of mid range already but the engine definitely dies in the higher revs...so I'm thinking the 1-3/4" might better. I would like to spend less than $500 if possible...the Stahl's are nice but I just don't have the cash for one. Thanks

I'm overseas (Iraq) and don't have access to my Z. I was wondering what the dimensions of a stock Z steering wheel is....I'm looking at ordering a Nardi steering wheel and they come in either 330 or 360mm. Is there any real benefit to going with a smaller/larger wheel? Also, where can I buy a Nardi hub for a 240Z? I did a search but the last thread was a few years old and I couldn't find any info on the sites listed. And lastly, who has the best deal on Nardi wheels? I'm looking at maybe a Sport or a Classic. Thanks

Thanks for all of the help! One question though...I was looking at the Arizona Z car coilovers and was a bit confused. It seems you need a lot of cutting/modifications just to install the coilovers....which totally defeats the purpose of me buying pre-sectioned coilovers (my whole point to buying pre-made coilovers was to AVOID having to do the cutting/modifying of the strut body...and it looks like you need to do a bunch of that just to install the coilover). I guess that I'm just spoiled with my previous cars (VWs, Porsches, Hondas, etc..) where you could just buy a complete aluminum bodied bolt-in coilover setup for $1000-1500 that you could just install yourself with minimum hand tools in a few hours.

I have a 73 240Z that's my daily driver and I want to get a coilover setup that has shorter overall height (so I can go lower and still have spring travel). I know you can take your strut tubes into a shop and have them sectioned but I can't do this because... -it's my daily driver and most of the shops I've dealt with in the past tend to take much longer than they say. -I'm too afraid I'll mess up on the length and then have to spend a bunch of time trying to hunt down stock strut tubes (which again I don't have the time for). So what companes sell either pre-shortened strut tubes for 240Zs or complete coilover kits (that have shorter tubes then stock)? I have a bunch of Japanese Z magazines (Hyper Rev) back home that shows tons of different Japanese brand complete coilover kits for Zs but I can't find a place that sells any of them in the states (I'm currently in Iraq so I can't exactly go home and check the magazine for brand names). I'm willing to spend some money (like under $1500 hopefully).

I used to read my dad's old Road and Track magazines (starting from the 50s) and just fell in love with all of the classics Japanese and European sports cars. I always loved the Zs but I could never find a decently priced one that didn't have rust. In that time I ended up owning a Honda Civic, Porsche 911SC, and even a Datsun B210. One of my dad's friends had a really nice Z that I bugged for a couple years to sell....but he wouldn't budge until years later. The car is 73, 280Z block swap with 3.1 stroker, triple Mikuni 44s, cam, header, 280 rear end/transmission, adjustable Tokico's/springs, and the car had a full restoration 5 years ago (no rust, shaved trim/badges, new paint, etc..) The car looks and runs great..interior looks almost new, only a few chips in paint, etc.. Guess how much my dad's friend sold it to me? $500. I think he hooked me up because I'm in the military but it was an awesome deal nonetheless. All of my friends hate me for it.

I want to buy a high quality g-nose for my 73Z (like something from Marugen Shoukai) and I can't seem to get ahold of Shouri Motorsports (PM, emails, webpage). Does anyone have a contact email or know of where I can get a high quality Japanese G-nose? Is Marugen Shoukai the only company that offers anything decent? I've heard too many horror stories with the cheaper kits so I'm willing to spend the money. I'm currently in Iraq (3/1 Marines near Kharma if you're curious) and I would like to purchase one when I get back. This probably goes in the vendor section but I figured this forum might get more replies/views. My internet access is really limited so I decided to ask in one of the busier forums. Thanks.

I had a 1980 Porsche 911SC for 3 years and my father owns a 72 911E...so I can help you out. Like the member said above, the 2.7 cars from 74-77 were the only 911s that had issues...that was due to improper cooling and pulling head studs. As for the 3.0s in the SC, they are almost bulletproof if the owner took care of it. It's common to hear about 3.0 and 3.2s doing 200K+ miles without a rebuild. The only two issues with the 3.0s is upgrading the chain tensioners and installing a pop-off valve in the airbox....most owners have already done both. I had my SC for 3 years and spent less than $150 on total parts (needed to replace a plug wire). The biggest thing with these cars is try to buy from an enthusiasts that has the proper paperwork/reciepts. These cars like to be run so it's actually better to buy from someone that drives the car instead of keeps it as a garage queen....911s that sit tend to have issues. But like I said before, these cars are VERY reliable....hell, I daily drove mine everyday, rain or shine (in Seattle). I couldn't daily drive my dad's car but the SC's are quite comfortable....comfy seats, good sound deadening, electric windows, good low end torque with a 5th gear which makes freeway driving painless (you can leave it in 5th and you'll still have plenty of grunt for passing.) As for the cars being unpredictable...that's more of a concern with the older models. My dad's 72 is twitchy and the tail likes to come around but that's mostly due to tires. My 80 was a totally different beast...yeah, it's a bit tricky in the pouring rain if you decide to give it too much gas in a corner but other than it's pretty docile. Just take it slow at first and learn the characteristics of the car...you'll learn how the car reacts and see the point in which the rear end breaks loose. I was 21 when I had mine (paid for it myself) and it was my first rwd car...and I only looped it a few times doing stupid stuff. haha You really have to drive hard to get into trouble with an SC....it's one of those cars you could hand the keys to your wife/gf and they wouldn't get in any trouble with it if they drove it like a normal passenger car.

I'm in the Marine Corps (Camp Pendleton Ca)

This is my first post so don't tear me up too much. I recently purchased a 1973 240Z and I was told by a member here (Auxilery) that this is one of the better informative Z sites on the web. This is my first Z but not my first Datsun (had a B210) nor my first sport coupe (had a Porsche 911SC)....I definitely have some learning to do. Here is the specs... 1973 240Z, 3.1 stroker (280Z block with diesel crank setup), 44mm tripple Mikuni's, lightenend flywheel, mild camshaft (270ish), 5 speed and rear end from a 280Z, Tokico adjustables/spring, and a bunch of other misc stuff. The car has fresh paint and no rust (full on body restoration 5 years ago)....and the interior looks perfect! Guess how much I paid? $500 (clean title too) It was a family friend and the guy hooked me up on a screaming deal....I was ready to pay 10X that much. Here is a pic....