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dave_hl

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About dave_hl

  • Birthday 09/16/1987

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  1. nup haven't tried bleeding it, never bled any hydrolics before but i've read a bit about it a while ago so i'll learn how and give it a shot... if that fails to fix the problem then i'll start replacing things. thanks for the help guys.
  2. yeah i'd say replacing both of those would most probably fix it but im hoping its not that major. Yeah thats not a bad theory that the heat could cause loss of seal... i was also thinking the fluid may thin having some sort of effect. perhaps when i pushed in the slave/operating cylinder i damaged a seal. anyone else have any thoughts/things i could try before i go replacing both slave and master cylinders?
  3. I was under the car a few days (1980 280zx) ago and cleaning an oil leak. For who knows what reason i pushed the piston for the clutch slave cylinder in. Not thinking it would actaully push in i went "oops" and pulled it back out. There is now more play in the clutch then there used to be and i think its easier to push the clutch in. It seemed to disengage fine and drive ok but over the course of a 30 minute drive stopping and starting the clutch would disengage less and less each time i pushed the pedal in until it was almost impossible to get it into first (even when reveing quickly in neutral first). It's got me boggled, i can't think why it would act differently after the cars warm, have i screwed the slave cylinder perhaps? help appreciated. cheers. dave.
  4. Now for sale on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=120266694119&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
  5. here are some pics for those interested in buying. It's a bit dirty and got a bit of white splattered paint on a bit of it, dunno how it got there but was there when i bought the car. Obviously it would need respraying for your car anyway. You can sort of see in 'spoiler2.jpg' that its not a perfect surface on the main top bit. its not perfectly straight. could almost use a bit of a level with bog or some glass resin before respraying. But it's not too bad, could just keep it as is and would look fine. Don't wanna hijack thread, Contact me through PM for more details etc.
  6. Well i've had another guy from this forum from QLD PM me about buying it too, so i'll just post a couple more pics up so you can both have a look and one of you might want it. I'm about to go away for tonight and saturday so i'll take some pics and upload to here on sunday.
  7. G'day, old thread but thought i'd post some pics of my zed as i have this front end. I've seen another 280zx in Melbourne with it as well so its possibly sold here, im not sure. Was on the car when i bought it. I'm not a hugggge fan of it but i like it a lot better then some out there. I'm tossing up ideas of remodeling it a little to make it fit the curves and sleek design of the car better. possibly cut out the bottom lip a bit so it doesn't scrape on everything too much when i put some nice low springs in it. (p.s. please ignore the number plates wankyness, it was the previous owners reg)
  8. This is my 280's old rear spoiler. attaches with 3 screws into the hatch + adhesive along the vertical. Was on the car when i bought it, but im not a huge fan of rear spoilers on zeds, so it's now removed and for sale if anyone here is in Melbourne, Australia. (PM me)
  9. yeah i removed the compressor last night, the pulley on it is quite easy to turn though so i can't imagine it wasting much power, if any. Just weighed it then though and its 9kg, just lowered it down onto the ground under the car. I'll pull the condensor today and all the hoses and perhaps some of the other a/c crap in the engine bay. I'm tempted to also pull all the cruise control components seeing as it doesn't work.. but i think i might just be in a bit of a destructive mood and i should probably stop. I am a fan of a minimalistic looking engine bay though.
  10. G'day, just been pulling out my a/c system our of my 280zx and noticed that the crank angle sensor is not even plugged in. I don't know a whole lot about it but from what i understand it's for ignition timing etc and the car shouldn't even run without it. Yet the car runs perfectly fine. I am running a Wolf 2D ecu, would this have anything to do with its disconnection? Also, While i'm in the electrical thread; my cruise control doesn't work (i'm tempted to pull the whole thing) and the whole system looks really quite complicated hence i assume not an easy fix, or, is there something i can check which its often the fault? thanks. Dave.
  11. Yeah I don't plan on fixing it, i prefer cruising round with the windows down in summer anyway. Sorry for going off topic a bit... whatever the topic of this thread is, but One concern I have is i assume if i pulled the condenser, compressor, drier etc which are all in the engine bay this would not effect the heating system, but if i was to attack the cooling and blower unit in the dash would this effect the heating system? From what i've read in my haynes, it sounds like the heating and a/c use the same blower fan/unit. If there's not much weight from the a/c in the dash then i may as well not bother removing.. i'll just get the stuff in the engine bay. Or does the evaporator have a lot of that 60+ pounds in it? thanks dave.
  12. G'day, this is my 1980 280zx. had it for about 2 years, goes nicely, just putting a new radiator in it at the moment and considering pulling out the whole a/c system while i'm in there seeing as it doesn't work anyway. Would any of you be able to tell me the sort of weight a complete air conditioning system would be? (compressor, condenser etc). Not sure if its really worth pulling out for the amount of weight reduction i would get, but the engine is also waisting a little of power turning the compressor (is this negligible?) thanks. dave.
  13. thanks guys. i just installed it then. i just ended up cutting the high beam button back a bit so it was harder to press. and fiddled with those spring things a bit more. pretty much back to normal... now for a tune...
  14. the 2 notches at the bottom? do you mean in the holes in the removable stick where the llittle springs are? or how do you mean? thanks.
  15. I am in the process of putting back together the headlight/indicator stick as i had to fix one of the contacts because the high beams were stuck on and normal beam wouldn't work. I found the post talking about that problem but it was old as so just came to ask if anyone knows how to get the stick back in. There are 2 small metal cylinders/ball bearings which have to go in there somehow so it can be puhsed forwards for high beams and back for normals, but they just popped ouit when i removed it in the first place so i dont know how to put them back in or exactly where they go. If anyone has ever looked around in there or can help I would be grateful. I have tried slotting the 2 metal things up in the spings in the lever and also in other spots but it then doesn't allow the headlight stick to be pushed back and forth. Kinda hard to explain, but if anyone knows what it looks like in there they might understand. cheers. dave.
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