John Greenslade

A simplistic question. I completed a frame up restoration of a 70 240z for my son (looks great = candy apple red with new MSA 17" mags) only to have the car in an accident the first time he drove it. Rr-restored and first drive realized the transmission was now blown. Installed a re-built 280Z 5 speed but can't find the type of transmission fluid usewd in the 280. Local Nissan store is closed for x-mas. I assume it is a 76 eara 280-Z tranny. As I said a simple question although not one I could get answered by local autoparts store (there manuals did not go back that far). Also reviewed my 240z manual and found no reference to transmission oil other than capacity, Yet each autoparts store I went to asjked for specifications

I have finally (3 Years) just about completed frame up rebuild (looks great) of a 1970 240z I have two electrical issues to resolve. I have tailights but turn signal not working. The headlight low beams work but driver side high beam has power but no illumination. I tryed new halogen beam - same problem. Figured probably a ground or connection issue. The 3 point connector from the main harness to the wiring to the metal assembly that the headlight plugs into was badly corroded at the main harness side. Tryed to clean and one of the prongs snapped. Tryed re-wiring the connection with single point connectors. Now high and low beam have no illumination. My questions are (a) where can you get the stock 3-point plastic connectors (have tryed local (Vancouver automotive suppliers with no luck so far) and ( if can't find replacement what is an alternative connection technique. Have downloaded P parasaka headlight relay but need to get these connections restored first.

Relatively minor question in final stage rebuild. After three years of work I am almost completely redone frame up restoration. Notwithstanding my efforts to label and store all parts and match all bolts I have lost the bolts to the starter motor. They appear to be 10mm bolt but not clear on thread size or length. Does any one know if these are unique (like water pump bolts etc.) or the correct size. Thanks

Got my dashboard and centre console back from Dash Board Restorations n Australia. It is perfect. Not inexpensive at US$600 for all work plus shipping and customs but it is better than new.

shop is called Abington Motors/Lancaster Restoration

Thanks again Racerx, I will discuss with the retoration shop. I thought it was a good reference for the restoration shop that they wanted to bring in expert help in an area rather than do an imperfect job. A friend that referred them to me had them restore his austin Healey and they did a great job. They will also let you go into their shop and do as much work on the car yourself as you want under their direction.

Thanks Racerx. Have given the particulars to paint shop.

I took my 1970 240Z to a local restoration shop that was recommended by an associate to do a check of my body repairs and then paint. Main item of concern was to check front frame rail alignment and to build new subframe connector box and install T/C connectors. They don't feel comfortable doing the T/C connectors and think one rail needs adjustment. Any suggestions for a frame shop in the Vancouver British Columbia area that does good work for a reasonable price.

240Z has a two piece black textured rear valance that fits around rear tailights. The restoration manual gives a paint mixture for refinishing this that includes adding I believe Ditzler suede filler. Is this a standard product that one can purchase at any automotive paint supplier. I tried to locate with an internet search without success.

Has anyone used the services of ZTherapy in Salem Oregon to have there SU's overhauled. Am thinking of sending mine (70 240) to them for refurbishment

I shipped mine to Dashboard restorations in Brisbane Australia. expect it back next week. Shipped through a firm in vancovuer Washington. They completely strip and restore to original quality. Total cost from vancovuer Washington, including freight, cistoms, restoration is US$600

I am currrently looking at new seats for 1970 240Z. and have been considering Corbeau VX 2000. Car will be strictly pleasure daily driver for my son. Has anyone any experience with Corbeau seats and this model in particular.

Am in the process of stripping engine from 70 240Z - approx 150,000 original miles - engine was rebuilt at 80,000. I took head off last night. No visible problems with head. Anyway propose to have it reconditioned now while everything is apart. The timing chain cam sprocket was at number 2 position. While the chain and sprocket look fine I am wondering if I should change it now while I am rebuilding everything else. So far the mechanical condition of drive train is excellent as compared to the rusted-out condition of suspension, frame and floor.

I purchased new springs and Tokico shocks earlier this year and finally compelted a refinish of front suspension and was assembling on weekend. The shock fit perfectly in the strut but the springs were not compressed when I assembled. I added polyurethane spacers I had from rear struts above the strut bearing, compressed springs and reassembled. Everything seems OK. My question, before I install assembly into body - Would I be better to use a second strut bearing (I have an extra set) rather than the poly spacer or does it make no difference?

I am currently completing rebuild of front suspension on 70 240Z. I bought new front control arms and burned out centre bushing with intent of putting in new poly bushing from energy suspension. The diameter of the Energy suspension bushing is the same as the outer diameter of the metal shell on the original bushings so I had outer shell pressed out and installed the energy suspension poly bushing. Afterwards, as all good engineers, I read the energy suspension bushing instructions which said you should leave in the original metal shells. My question (a) how would you get the damn bushing in with the shell in place and therefore ( are these instructions correct. I have attached control arm to cross member and am about to complete the front strut rebuild and then put wheels back under car - so it would be easy now to correct problem if I did it wrong.

On all my new cars there is a FM (i believe) I believe signal that prevents the car being started without the key. Does anyone sell this aftermarket that could be installed on a 70 240 Z.

Thanks for all the thoughts. Shaved a bit off outer edge of each bushing and was able to squeeze on. Got the spindle pin through one side but having minor problem lining up the other side. One of those items where a second set of hands is helpful. Anyway gave up cursing and decided to finish tonight. Next step compress new springs and assemble spring strut assembly and then install. Hopefully the balance of the bushings are easier.

The inner metal sleeves on the control arms are a major pain to remove but I did. The new bushing fits fine in the control arm but the bushings have an outer rim that extents beyond the control arm about an 1/8 th of an inch. The energy suspension bushings system requires 4 bushings for each outer control arm. Two insert from the outer side of the outer control arm and have an outer poly washer and metal washer that are compressed by the end nuts on the spindle pin. The two inner bushings on the outer control arm are compressed agains the strut tower. It is this compression against the strut tower I am having difficulty achieving. Need to get my digital camera active and figure out how to post pictures to enhance explanations.

I have everything out of the vehicle - body is stripped to a shell. I have done substantial rust repair and am now tackling mechanical etc. Accordingly don't need jack. The putty knife is a great suggestion. Cursing didn't seem to help so will try putty knife and crow bar. Thanks

I am trying to re-asemble my rear control arms to the strut tower with the energy suspension polyurethane bushings. I got the drivers side together somehow but am having problem with passenger side. The strut tower spcing , where spindle pin goes through, is approx 5 3/8 inches wide. The control arm opening is about 5.5" but when you put the bushings in the control arm the opening is reduced to 5 1/4 inches. How do you compress the bushing that 1/8 inch to do the assembly. Trust this makes sense. On the passenger side I managed to use a a large clamp to compress one side and somehow got lucky and got it to mesh. No such luck on drivers side. I presume there is an easier way. I have only installed the inner bushings on the control arm and think it is easier to install outer bushing and inner metal sleeve after the control arm and strut tower are meshed; then put spindle pin through unit. I tryed compressing the bushings in the control arm with a clamp overnight in the hope that once the clamp was removed the bushing would stay compressed long enough to install but no such luck.

Am rebuilding 70 240z. Have substantially refurbished rear suspension. I had new bearings installed in the stub axle and strut tower by Nissan dealer, but they did not have new axle nuts so returned without final assembly. When I got new nuts and torqued to the recommended +200 foot pounds the passenger side axle rotated "freely" but the drivers side was frozen. i assumed since I had changed strut towers to a later model in better condition that the sleeve from my existing stub axle was the wrong length. I took back to Nissan to disassemble and measure strut dimension so I could order appropriate sleeve (the only place that seems to have these is Victoria British). Anyway the Dealer reassembled at 175 foot pounds and say it is OK (at the recommended +200 it freezes). My question is will the lower torque make any difference. I'd rather deal with this now then have a problem 6 months from now when I have hopefully finished the rebuilt.

I assumed the axle would not spin freely if the sleeve was too short, not to long. Doubt the dealer will put anything in writing.

I suspect even if you seal this well that there will be some form of galvanic corrosion resulting from the difference in electrical potential between the steel and the foam (which will invariably have some moisture content). similar to what happens between two different types of metal. If you wanted to avoid problem you could probably coat metal with POR 15 if you have a way to spray in applicable areas, and then foam.

There is (was) a nylon fitting at the top of my 1970 240Z rack and pinion steering assembly that the rebuild manual says to be carefull not to break during disassembly. Apparently someone beat me to it and it was already broken. I don't see in either the MSA or Victoria British catalog a replacement. Can this nylon insert just be replaced with a bolt or is there another source or solution.

I installed new Tokico shocks and springs in my shock towers last night and have what may be a dumb question. There does not seem to be anything holding the shock cartridge stable in the shock tower. I added some oil to the tower as suggested in my rebuild book, screwed in the new "Gland packing nut", depressed the coil spring and reassembled the strut tower. The spring doesn't seem "tight" and I am curious what prevents the entire shock cartridge from moving instead of just the plunger. I am assuming when I reinstall the shock tower in the car that the weight of the vehicle will compress the spring and shock, but as the cartidge is not held firmly in vertical place will it not move up and down - slamming into the tower base- as one goes over bumps. The original 240 set-up shows a shock bearing, o-rings, and other items that would hold everything firm. I am assuming the use of the new cartridge eliminates the need for these items - they weren't in the cartridges I removed- but it still seems to me there will be play in the cartridge inside the shcok tower. Trust this makes sense.