John Greenslade

I need to clean up the threads on by stub axle, damaged an upper thread while removing and having difficulty starting new nut. I know a 1 1/16th" socket fits the nut but does anyone know the thread size for running a die over the threads. I assume it is metric

Mike, has anyone posted pictures of your rear disk upgrade yet. I ahve the components and will probably install sometime next month but would like to see a completed setup thanks

You can get them from Tabco in Ohio. Phone nu,ber 1-800-782-5226. I did the drivers side and have decided to change passenger side also and have just ordered. If you change you will also have to order the "Rear Quarter Lower Front Section" - basically the front of rear fender that attaches to the rocker.

I recently replaced the drivers side rocker panel. As a first time novice it took me two weekends, but fits perfect. I only have minor damage at the front of passenger side rocker and some damage under rocker (same as on drivers side where I cut and welded repair section). My time saving thought is to cut out affected area, repair inner damage and then reweld the repaired cut out section back in. Any comments.

I spoke with the shop I had strip the undercoating on my 240Z about glass beading the suspension components, half-shafts and differential prior to finishing (powder for some, primer and paint for others) and he advises he uses garnet to strip as opposed to glass beads. Says it makes a better finish for coating as is more abrasive. Any comments and how does one protect differential from getting garnet dust in bearings. I am still blowing out garnet from my body passages.

I spoke with the shop I had strip the undercoating on my 240Z about glass beading the suspension components, half-shafts and differential prior to finishing (powder for some, primer and paint for others) and he advises he uses garnet to strip as opposed to glass beads. Says it makes a better finish for coating as is more abrasive. Any comments and how does one protect differential from getting garnet dust in bearings. I am still blowing out garnet from my body passages.

I now have all my rear suspension completely stripped and am taking components out to be beaded blasted and powder coated. My question is what to do with differential and half shafts. I assume I can have bead blasted but that the heat of powder coating would be problematic. What does everyone suggest - bead blast and then primer or POR15?

Denny 411, I attended at Wal Mart in Canada and was advised that they usually have the product but none in stock. Salesman didn't know the name of product just that they normally had and check back in a month. Tryed to order over the Walmart website but got no matches for the product description. Do you know what the specific name and brand are of the product. Thanks again for the tip.

Thanks for the tip. I'll try it this weekend.

I spoke with one of the reps of Rhino lining truck bed spray on liners about coating the undercarriage of my 240 before rebuilting. Problem is I don't have on rotisserie and they have to have it flipped to spray. The local Body supply shop - White and Peters- have a similar (?)polyurethane product put out by Morton which I beleive is a division of US Chemicals. Has anyone used this or a similar product. Any suggestions. I have already covered the stripped (walnut shelled) undercarriage with a catalyzed polyurethane primer so don't think I could use POR15.

I spoke with one of the reps of Rhino lining truck bed spray on liners about coating the undercarriage of my 240 before rebuilting. Problem is I don't have on rotisserie and they have to have it flipped to spray. The local Body supply shop - White and Peters- have a similar (?)polyurethane product put out by Morton which I beleive is a division of US Chemicals. Has anyone used this or a similar product. Any suggestions. I have already covered the stripped (walnut shelled) undercarriage with a catalyzed polyurethane primer so don't think I could use POR15.

I had the entire undercarriage and paint (interior and exterior) stripped with walnut shells. I had all previously stripped all components, mechanical, fenders, doors, harch, glass, interior, dash board, etc.,so there was only the unibody shell left. The stripping was more expensive than I originally thought but it certainly made continued body repair easier. Also with everthing stripped I discovered several areas that need repair that were previously masked.

Try http://web.ctsolutions.com/zeddfind/ they have floor pans and rails. Or check out pparaska site he has plans to make floor rails. Also, motorsport auto www.zparts.com and get catalogue. For rockers and rear fenders tabco - no website.

Check out Tabco. Their in Chesterland Ohio. Their catalogue isn't on-line. I have bought rear fender and rocker panels from them. The fits was excellent (and I'm an absolute novice) ,the price was excellent and they shipped same day by UPS. Telephone number is 216-320-0140; fax 216-320-0142 and e-mail info@tabcobodyparts.com

400 ci 280z. When I replaced the frame rails I supported the front end by placing jack stands under the front radiator cross members. With all mechanical components out of the car there was lots of rigidity just from the inner fender support system. I also put jack stands under rear frame sections. Also, because I always worry about stability when crawling arount car I had the rear end held lightly with a chain hoist hung from a 6x6 across beams in my garage and also supported under the floor pans near transmission tunnel with 2 hydraulic jacks.

OK, I am doing my first ever body work (MIG welder works great - my first attempt at welding light metal)and a frame up restoration. I previously stripped every mechanical component, doors, windows, interior, dash etc until only had a shell. I replaced both floor pans and welded in new frame rails. I had the undercarriage stripped with walnut shells, repaired minor undercarriage and strut tower damage. I have just rebuild the inner rocker panel sill and coated with POR 15. Last night I spot welded a new rocker panel on the drivers side and this weekend hope to replace the drivers side inner wheel well and rear fender panel. I have ordered a new front fender panel for the passenger side and will restore minor damage on the passenger side next week. Next step is to rebuilt rear suspension, reinstall rear suspension, diferrential and then temporarily install front wheels to have towed to alignment shop to make sure i didn't screw up the front frame rail position. Finally my question. I have coated the undercarriage with a high quality catalyzed primer. What should I do next to prevent future rust problems. Also, I propose to have the various suspension components and hangers bead polished and powder coated. What finishes work on the diff, transmission, and drive shafts. Thanks John G

Gentlemen, thanks for the comments. I checked the paint labels and no cyanates disclosed so charcoal filter should work with necessary ventilation precautions.

Plan on spraying primer over clean metal today. I got a high quality polyurethane primer (needs catalyst) yesterday and purchased a respirator that the body shop supply store said is what they normally sell. It is a charcoal and gauze filter type. I notice in some of the shops that they are using full air mask to spray. Is thnis necessary or is the charcoal and gauze adequate. I will be doing in a reasonably well ventilated garage. All other paint work will be done professionally but need to get the bare metal covered now. Thanks. Still trying to decide on spray gun. Probably will go with siphon variety on basis of cost

I had my 1970 240Z stripped with walnut shells today, amazing the additional rust damage that showed up. Anyway I have picked up some polyurethane base primer and propose to apply tomorrow some time (my first attempt at automotive spray painting -reading my restoratoin manual several times tonight. I intend to buy a spray gun. Canadian tire has two models of Campbell Hauser guns, one is CDN$139 the other is a professional model for CDN$189. Plan on renting a compressor for now. Any comments on the quality of these guns or other suggestions. Also thought of going by the local tool store (Summit tools) seem to recall them have different models for CDN$60-80. Checked the local rental store and while they had a compressor that could deliver 60psi the spray guns appeared in really poor shape.

I am proposing to change my brake lines for my 1970 240Z to the stainless lines from Classic Tube. Does anyone know a supplier for the fuel lines or do you have to have custom fabricated

I am ready to start disassembly of my struts in order to have strut towers beaded and then powder coated. Also, need new cartridges and am considering converting rear brakes to disc. As I don't anticiapte doing this regularly is it easier and cheaper just to take to a shop to have disassembled. Any spring compressors I have seen either are only for cartridge replacement and not srping removal or appear to cost about US$240 plus shipping and duty. Any suggestions. I have to take strut to machine shop to remove remains of spindle pin. Tryed dones of heat with my acetylene torch to no avail.] Thanks John G

Thanks. I'll measure and try later in the week when I can get to a supply store. Thanks, john G

I have started to rebuilf rear suspension. Still Have one spindle pin to remove - will have to take to a shop with a press as heat and hammer didn't budge. I ordered Energy Suspension kit but it requires you to use the metal shell in the moustache bar. Took out the rubber bushing to discover the metal shell was almost rusted away. I don't see these listed with MSA does anyone else carry or do I have to find a new moustache bar and if so who stocks these. Thanks for the help guys. John G

Mike, thanks for the response and the website address. Other than teh border crossing time now your only a short drive from my place in West Vancouver. Can usually convince my wife to go down for the day and shop. Need to find a source of US$ this CDN peso sucks.

I managed to pound out the spindle pin from the passenger side control arm but couln't budge the drivers side. I managed to separate the control arm by cutting the spindle pin with a thin cutting wheel. I then was able to remove remnant from control arm. However still couldn't get the remains of the pin to move in the strut assembly side. I then drilled a 1/4 inch hole in center of spindle pin so I could apply more force with a punch and small sledge hammer without punch slipping. Still no success. I now have three choices (a) give up and take to a machine shop and see if they can press out ( buy a new strut assembly (not likely) or © has anyone tryed drilling out the majority of the diameter of the pin and then trying to pund out the remainder? Any other thoughts. Also, as a result of my efforts I managed to damage the backing plate on the strut side of the brake drum. It may not matter because I am thinking of changing to discs. Two questions, does anyone stock the backing plates and second as this will only be a street car do you recommend the MSA package or the Toyota conversion. I looked at the Arizona z site but presume that if you use their product you should change front and rear. Are the Arizona Z products suitable for street use or are they just for racing (ignoring the fact I may have to mortgage the house to buy. Thanks, John G