John Greenslade

when you say the whole kit what are you referring to the Hperflex master kit from Suspension restoration?

I have now disassemled the rear end of my '70 240Z. I am about to order new bushings and Spindle pins. I note in the MSA catalogue that they have urethane bushings for the control arms. I was going to order the spindle pins from MSA and the Energy Suspension bushings from Suspension restoration. Does anyone know if the mSA urethane bushings are comparable to the Energy Suspension bushings. it would obviously be easier to order from one supplier. Also, it seems that the control arm bushing at the differential side should be urethane but the spindle pin bushings appear to only be rubber. Am I correct and is there a reason you don't use urethane for the the spindle pin. Thanks to the subscriber who recommended using a propane torch to remove the spindle bushings. I took the first one out using a hack saw and chisel and then remembered the Hybridz comment about propane torch. The first one took be an hour. The second one fell out after heating for 2-3 minutes with my benzomatic torch. Thanks, john G

I pulled the differential and rear struts today and will start rebuilding next week. However, as I removed the rear assembly I realized I hadn't completely disassembled the emergency brake. Is there an easy way to remove the clips that hold the rear emergency brake line at the back of the transmission tunnel. I can't get the clips to budge.

I pulled the differential and rear struts today and will start rebuilding next week. However, as I removed I realized I hadn't completely disassembled the emergency brake. Is there an easy way to remove the clips that hold the rear emergency brake line at the back of the transmission tunnel. I can't get the clips to budge.

I ordered a new rocker (outer sill) from tabco(?). Looks great but then realized that my inner rocker (inner sill) also has damage at the rear. Does anybody make the inner sill or do you just have to fabricate.

I have now spot welded floor pans and front frame rails in place on my 70 240z. I tried to measure the frame rail cross dimensions from the factory manual to check that rails were square and that front cross member was in right place but didn't have any success (i'm a novice at this so maybe I was doing incorrectly). I left part of the passenger side rail in place as a guide and on drivers side welded to the exact spot the original rail was cut out of. My main concern is on the passenger side rail that the stabilizer bar and the cross member are square to the driver side rail. Does anyone know what a reasonable margin of error is. I.e. if everything is within a 1/4" is that adequate. I am thinking of having towed to a frame shop to double check before I weld the rails to the inner fender. Any comments.

Have any of you tryed the Energy Suspension products available from www.suspension.com site. Any comments on quality and performance. I will be finished body and frame work in the next month and want to start restoring (updating) the suspension and steering next. Hope to order a rollcage tomorrow. Also, in the near future plan on changing seats and starting the interior restoration. Any comments on compatible leather seats for a 70 240z. Originally thought I would just have originals restored but seems to be a lot of discussion on using newer vehicle seats.

I am presently restoring my 240Z for my son when he turns 16. I am concerned about the amount of power for a young driver and the lack of any real protection in the event of an accident. Accordingly I have been thinking I should add a roll bar or roll cage. However, I am also concerned that if I put in a full cage (a) he may think he's indestructible and ( its a bit of a pain for passengers to get in and out. Any thoughts. Also, any sources for product or design for a built oneself. Thanks

I am restoring a 1970 240z. It was restored professionally in 1987 and when I started project was horrified to see that the Professional restoration shop had merely masked the floor board damage rather than repair. Also frame rails had some badly welded section but nothing had been done to arrest continued rusting. I now have installed new floor boards from Rust Doctors in New Jersey and am in the process of installing frame rails (again from rust doctors) once completed I have a rear fender and inner wheel well to replace - got perfect match with new USA steel from Tabco in Ohio - cost including shipping from Ohio to Vancouver canada -CDN$175 - great deal. I recently downloaded a schematic from Peter Paraska of the frame dimensions of a 1973 240Z. They were very helpful in determining reference points form datsun on the front rails and related components however in measuring my 1970 I believe the dimensions are slightly different. Does anyone have a comparable frame schematic for a 1970 240Z. John G