slowride

Ive been offered $5800 for my motor, trans, sds, ITB's and headers. I already have a VQ with 5,000 miles on it. I think I am going to dump money into the VQ, instead of the L series. I only paid $2800 including a load of parts and brand new weather stripping, so I guess I did ok. Thanks for all the help!! I'll be on the VQ forums for now.

My 78 has been keeping me busy, and not having the space to work on the car is a bummer as well. I just got over a few hurdles and will be going full throttle on my vq swap.

Hello, So it looks like I dont even have a stroker. P3040 Crank from a 280zx N42 Head 107.88 thick 86.5mm bore P86 100 or P86100 puistons with a small circle pop out (dome) Have to double check but has a 79.5 stroke of .5 mm Crane Cam 168-0012 168-17-03 That is what my mechanic sent me. What a disappointment !!

hey there the diff isnt finned I honestly cant remember if I have the axles or not, I have soo many parts in storage.

Love the stance! What are the specs of your front CCW wheels? Front offset? Rear offset? Beautiful dat!

thanks for all the detailed and informative reply's everyone!! I am reading through the manual as we speak and learning about the SDS. I called SDS and they have been more than helpful as well. I will still be posting more details for my motor here as we figure it out and whether or not I have a stroker.

I have a EM-5D which does not control my ignition. From my understanding the SDS does not allow maps ( or the one that I have does not), its basically one setting for your whole powerband, and with mysetup its not working. Racing Greed told me that its either I have good cruising AFR or WOT afrs; its either one or the other. If I upgrade to SDS coils, I will not be able to properly tune my ITB's because SDS does not support tuning by TPS value? Knocking at lower RPMs and pinging was also heard. Racing Greed's answer is the exact same answer that another reputable tuner shop here in BC has told me last year, when I had the car dyno'd. Racing Greed also told me if I want to have a good tune with my ITB's that the Haltech will allow me to tune via TPS value and Alpha N tuning? Which my SDS cannot do, according to them. I am still in the process of getting the rest of the info that you guys requested. When you guys look at my AFR's from that dyno pull what does it tell you? My AFR's are no where near you guys say they have to be at higher RPM..so how do I correct this? It seems that I need a standalone with adjustability to add or remove fuel and spark at certian RPMS to tune out this and correct this? I am seeing AFR's between 9 and 10 at higher RPM....

I am using a stock distributor with a MSD blaster coil How would I go about tuning the fuel maps? Racing Greed told me that with my setup, I can either have cruisng setup or WOT, not both. Currently my cruising is good, but when WOT, my AFR's are way too high. I am trying to figure this out and have come here to try and seek some answers. Please stop posting how I need more info when I have posted that I am getting all the info requested and and posting it as I find out. I appreciate the help, but please read what I have posted before telling me that you need more info. For the fifth time, I am getting all the info that people have requested on the site!!!!!

hmm well this is the second tuning shop that has told me this so is it just them? or are they right? they are telling me my SDS cannot control my ignition. both tuning shops have told me the exact same thing! frustrating? **** yes i just spoke with SDS, and I can convert my car to coil ignition system and control my ignition? my current sds has no system to modify my ignition.

i am not sure that I have a stroker,, I was told it was one by the PO. I am going to find out by the weeks end ! If you read my post, you would have found out that I attempted to get it tuned, but with my SDS the tuner was unable to tune my ignition. With my current setup, I am unable to properly tune it.

had the car dynod today...on 94 octane car made 150 @ wheels, roughly 225 at crank....on a mustang dyno. here in BC @ racing greed., so I have a N42 head,, I can see the stamp on the head. motor was knocking at idle/ low rpm but seems to go away as rpms go higher.. Head is being pulled to inspect pistons and pull a rod and measure. Inspecting head to see just how good the port and polish job is! Oil pan is being pulled to fix leak and install new gasket, we will be inspecting crank to see any stamping to determine what I have. We are going to measure cams and determine what cams are in the head. Injectors are being sent out to test flow and determine CC. Still have to check timing. Tuning shop reccomends I dump the sds and get a haltech so they can tweak my ignition, they told me with current SDS they have no way to change ignition and properly tune car. As i mentioned before my AFR's are way too high. Apparently at cruising speed everything is good, but at WOT I am running so rich that I am depleating all the oil in my cylinders and risk running them dry? once we pull the head and inspect crank I'll report back what I have found and what my stroker is comprised of... I am all ears for comments and your views on everything...

thanks for all the advice, I hear you guys loud and clear as i said, I bought this project car not running and am just trying to get all the kinks out. Again thanks for all the advice, once I get all the info you guys requested I will post it here. I am in the process of figuring out what crank, rods, pistons, head, and head gasket are currently on the motor. Thanks

hey guys ill get you the head info tomorrow, the car is at a shop right now the motor has a very big cam,,idles at 950rpm very loupy the hesitation and the comments of "i cant give you a proper tune with your current setup without you running race gas " has started me on this quest to determine what I actually have in the motor and to get it running properly. my car has a gauge that measures fuel pressure, I believe it was at 40 or 50psi when the car is running. I know I have an external holley pump and a JSK fuel rail. I'll find the block casting number, what kinda injectors I have and timing tomorrow. I want to ensure my car is going to run right and make as much power as possible with my setup. Id like to see 300hp, but I wont even get close until I have it running properly. What would most of you do? Just retard the timing till proper AFR and no pinging call it a day?

sds

i am having mechanic dig into the motor this week.... I never did run race gas, I just used 94 and didnt full throttle it, although I barely drove it last summer due to this. I wanted to get it running properly before enjoying her. I know the car hesitates when at WOT and didnt seem to pull all that hard. I dont have the dyno sheet, its in a box somewhere in my storage. I do remember the AFRs being awfully high at WOT, I'll get you guys some more info like what head I have on it, pistons, rods, length of stroke. I know head was ported and polished.(PO told me) Do I need to send pistons and head off to machine shop to determine CC's of each cylinder? Or is that something any mechanic can do? Can i identify the crank by just pulling the oil pan? The piston positive deck height is the amount that the piston sits above the block when the crack is at TDC? If the piston is flush with block or it is up 1MM this will help determine what piston I have correct? Is 10 to 1 compression too high for a street car? My thoughts are to figure out what I have and get the car running good, then install ITBs and back to dyno to get it tuned properly. Thanks for all the advice and direction, I appreciate it. Yea I know the wiring looks a lil rough it was all taped up and we are going to be cleaning it up after addressing all these issues.