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tir33d last won the day on July 17

tir33d had the most liked content!

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About tir33d

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  1. I use 5kg springs in rear. Very soft and I have quite a bit of droop. I have been watching a heap of the videos ole mate did with his carbon 240z. Now having a go learning carbon. If all goes to plan I might make a fuel cell to sit right behind rear towers and mount my wing off the cross between the towers. Then I have a bucket load of space under there and we may go to a double wishbone style set up, or at least some sort of locator behind diff. can’t wait to cut all that metal out. Carbon Skin is 2kg
  2. So, I guess it worked , I am able to get a bit of camber and a bit of toe equal on both sides. Easier to control on throttle oversteer now. Here is how I spent my weekend
  3. So I have been unfortunate enough to be able to break almost all components in the rear. my rear end now consists of a independent nine inch, billet axle and stubs with Porsche race cv’s. All hanging in a modified 280zx subframe. Yes I still break stuff. this day I found the left was separating itself out near the hub. We replated the whole lot, on the left, but replaced the right with a arm from a 280z 1979, (told they were identical - and look identical, bar the brake mount) strengthened as well. When reassembly we had to remanufacture a dog one for the right rear brake. Now although these rear arms arm similar. I am having terrible issues with camber and toe. The right side is positive camber, even with adjustable eccentric bushes I cannot go negative. Car is crazy fast, really pushing the limits on standard suspension points, want to try a R33 style rear but it just takes up to much space. We are gonna try removing the mounts and add 3 hein joints. I could scare you with some of the measurements of my set up
  4. Always evolving. Stay tuned for some rear end work. I have found I have slight differences in my rear trailing arms. Even with the adjustable eccentric bushes I am unable to get any neg camber or toe on my right rear. Rather than reinvent the wheel, or add a new subframe we are gonna work on the mounts. The 9 inch rear cost me way to much to start from scratch.....
  5. https://youtu.be/vj48VGalIDg I might just leave this here
  6. Further updates... now independent 9 inch and Quaife sequential. and I went racing. In Australia we call this sport sedans. You can race anything, as long as 6 litre capacity and engine in mid to front. Most guys in this video are tube chassis running SB2 chev.
  7. If someone technically smarter than me can add that vid it would be appreciated
  8. Having major issues re-integrating on this site. Cannot seem to get my computer to access and finish uploading from photobucket. Anyway, if you have a look on youtube for user name LS1280zx and search for hillclimb crash, you will see the demise of my old car. New car started as a spare parts car, bought for $300 for its r200 diff and power steering rack. As it turned out, this car had some serious rust (which has all been cut out and repaired) but not in crucial areas. Since you are never meant to test your rollcage - and I did, I decided to overengineer a lot of the car. Both front and rear strut towers were strengthen with 3mm plate and the rollcage now extends to towers. Extra bars, extra triangles, got rid of tartga tops and welded up. Taught myself to fibreglass, made my own moulds, created my own car. So whole front end including doors are now fibreglass, bonnet and doors have extra layer of Kevlar to prevent shatter in case of accident. Overall weight is now 1200kg wet. Still a bit of a fat pig. Car runs 295/30R18 tyres all round, still has LS1, although with some trick 5.3 litre heads with 6.0 litre valves installed. About 550hp at motor. Car took forever to rebuild, now slowly getting back into racing it. Really need some setup work now.
  9. why cant I post pics or vids? oh yeah, hi! im back
  10. Dry sump arrived today. More bloody work. Going to have to reconfigure my engine mount as I was using the front holes of the block where the pump now mounts to. Kit came with good gear but not quite complete and no instructions. Need to make a block of plate for standard oil intake where the standard pump goes into. Considering the sump and pump are a fixed unit I was surprised not to see hoses pre made for sump to pump (others I can understand). Hopefully I can remanufacture my engine mount so I clear the pump and can also leave my exhaust intact. I have only just received word today that my expensive extractors/headers have finished being HPC coated. Would be a shame to have to modify a pipe or two (this side is all individual pipes). Now we start the process of fitting everything off and installing. Hoping for two weeks - but I don't need the car till mid november. Looking at all this nice gear I am tempted to clean up my engine bay before reinstalling. Also have to re-route brake lines and install bias valve. I will take some photos tomorrow.
  11. A simple method is a gravity bleed, Crack the nipple and let the line furthest from cylinder and let it drip for a while, do the same with others one at a time till you get all four done. Otherwise if its due to air around the nipple you can get a air powered suction bleeder. I always plan to waste a bottle of fluid in the process, take your time. I notice you don't have a return line back to your tank, my 280zx had a return line which is now plumbed to the valve on the rocker (I don't understand how, or what conditions it works under - I believe its a purge type system for the fuel tank)
  12. Funnily enough they claim there is a 5-7 hp gain by not leaving your bottom end rinsing through oil. Faster........... well its kind of coming down to how big your balls are now, braking is becoming really late and speed excessive. Was almost more fun with less power. But its ok I am taking hormones so I can man up some more.
  13. Progress...Kind of. I hear that today my dry sump setup started its journey from the states to Australia. Ended up with a ARE 4 stage dry sump. Going to eliminate the standard oil pump as this pump of the dry setup will do the job. 2.5 gallon tank with heater and all accessory drive gear. Already shelled out $4500 - will spend probably near on $1000 more on fittings and lines. Ended up using my othe $1000 motor but did some work. It appears the motor was a "piston slap" motor that holden has re-ringed (there were numbers written on the pistons). I spent a bit of money but nothing silly as funds have gone towards the dry sump. New crank bearings, cam bearings, lifters, cam (a little smaller lift - 232/232 @.600) and a set of heads that have stainless valves and a bit of hand porting to clean things up a little. ARP head bolts and crank bolts. Motor @ $3000. Motor is currently sitting cling wrapped at the mechanics waiting for sump pan, once we have that we will re-install and fix the tune. Might even dyno it again to get a number. Think we should get about 420hp at the rears. Should be going again in 2-3 weeks.
  14. Being constructive here ok. Yes your rear frame inprovements are good, although the system of offset bolts can slip under extreme forces such as track work with a good quality setup and slicks. My advice is that if you know that is how the car will sit for life you should mark the points and make them solid. I have coilovers in my work ute / toy and also my racetoy (280zx) As I have found with most adjustable component parts, once you find your setting you rarely move it again. (ie. you get minimum camber and you lock it and leave it. Unfortunately I could not even consider being that low anywhere near where I want to use my car. Would literally drag the exhaust everywhere and get stuck see-sawing ontop of mounds. On the tyre thing - I do own a shop and I do know the specs. That wheel and tyre combination honestly would be doing bugger all for you. The stretch you have leaves very little working area on the tyre. Is it due to the space under the guard on the outside or is it because of the massive camber that you can only run such a small tyre? Your car with that rim is really itching for a wider tyre and some ZG flares. I like low and fat, definetly low, just wish you could make it fat............
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