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About tir33d

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  1. Further updates... now independent 9 inch and Quaife sequential. and I went racing. In Australia we call this sport sedans. You can race anything, as long as 6 litre capacity and engine in mid to front. Most guys in this video are tube chassis running SB2 chev.
  2. If someone technically smarter than me can add that vid it would be appreciated
  3. Having major issues re-integrating on this site. Cannot seem to get my computer to access and finish uploading from photobucket. Anyway, if you have a look on youtube for user name LS1280zx and search for hillclimb crash, you will see the demise of my old car. New car started as a spare parts car, bought for $300 for its r200 diff and power steering rack. As it turned out, this car had some serious rust (which has all been cut out and repaired) but not in crucial areas. Since you are never meant to test your rollcage - and I did, I decided to overengineer a lot of the car. Both front and rear strut towers were strengthen with 3mm plate and the rollcage now extends to towers. Extra bars, extra triangles, got rid of tartga tops and welded up. Taught myself to fibreglass, made my own moulds, created my own car. So whole front end including doors are now fibreglass, bonnet and doors have extra layer of Kevlar to prevent shatter in case of accident. Overall weight is now 1200kg wet. Still a bit of a fat pig. Car runs 295/30R18 tyres all round, still has LS1, although with some trick 5.3 litre heads with 6.0 litre valves installed. About 550hp at motor. Car took forever to rebuild, now slowly getting back into racing it. Really need some setup work now.
  4. why cant I post pics or vids? oh yeah, hi! im back
  5. Dry sump arrived today. More bloody work. Going to have to reconfigure my engine mount as I was using the front holes of the block where the pump now mounts to. Kit came with good gear but not quite complete and no instructions. Need to make a block of plate for standard oil intake where the standard pump goes into. Considering the sump and pump are a fixed unit I was surprised not to see hoses pre made for sump to pump (others I can understand). Hopefully I can remanufacture my engine mount so I clear the pump and can also leave my exhaust intact. I have only just received word today that my expensive extractors/headers have finished being HPC coated. Would be a shame to have to modify a pipe or two (this side is all individual pipes). Now we start the process of fitting everything off and installing. Hoping for two weeks - but I don't need the car till mid november. Looking at all this nice gear I am tempted to clean up my engine bay before reinstalling. Also have to re-route brake lines and install bias valve. I will take some photos tomorrow.
  6. A simple method is a gravity bleed, Crack the nipple and let the line furthest from cylinder and let it drip for a while, do the same with others one at a time till you get all four done. Otherwise if its due to air around the nipple you can get a air powered suction bleeder. I always plan to waste a bottle of fluid in the process, take your time. I notice you don't have a return line back to your tank, my 280zx had a return line which is now plumbed to the valve on the rocker (I don't understand how, or what conditions it works under - I believe its a purge type system for the fuel tank)
  7. Funnily enough they claim there is a 5-7 hp gain by not leaving your bottom end rinsing through oil. Faster........... well its kind of coming down to how big your balls are now, braking is becoming really late and speed excessive. Was almost more fun with less power. But its ok I am taking hormones so I can man up some more.
  8. Progress...Kind of. I hear that today my dry sump setup started its journey from the states to Australia. Ended up with a ARE 4 stage dry sump. Going to eliminate the standard oil pump as this pump of the dry setup will do the job. 2.5 gallon tank with heater and all accessory drive gear. Already shelled out $4500 - will spend probably near on $1000 more on fittings and lines. Ended up using my othe $1000 motor but did some work. It appears the motor was a "piston slap" motor that holden has re-ringed (there were numbers written on the pistons). I spent a bit of money but nothing silly as funds have gone towards the dry sump. New crank bearings, cam bearings, lifters, cam (a little smaller lift - 232/232 @.600) and a set of heads that have stainless valves and a bit of hand porting to clean things up a little. ARP head bolts and crank bolts. Motor @ $3000. Motor is currently sitting cling wrapped at the mechanics waiting for sump pan, once we have that we will re-install and fix the tune. Might even dyno it again to get a number. Think we should get about 420hp at the rears. Should be going again in 2-3 weeks.
  9. Being constructive here ok. Yes your rear frame inprovements are good, although the system of offset bolts can slip under extreme forces such as track work with a good quality setup and slicks. My advice is that if you know that is how the car will sit for life you should mark the points and make them solid. I have coilovers in my work ute / toy and also my racetoy (280zx) As I have found with most adjustable component parts, once you find your setting you rarely move it again. (ie. you get minimum camber and you lock it and leave it. Unfortunately I could not even consider being that low anywhere near where I want to use my car. Would literally drag the exhaust everywhere and get stuck see-sawing ontop of mounds. On the tyre thing - I do own a shop and I do know the specs. That wheel and tyre combination honestly would be doing bugger all for you. The stretch you have leaves very little working area on the tyre. Is it due to the space under the guard on the outside or is it because of the massive camber that you can only run such a small tyre? Your car with that rim is really itching for a wider tyre and some ZG flares. I like low and fat, definetly low, just wish you could make it fat............
  10. I have Ksport front and rear coilovers. But be warned, do not order 280zx k sports coilovers as they are designed for a 240z-280z. I used the australian supplier located at Brookvale. When my coilovers arrived there was no way they were going to just bolt in. He rectified the problem and welded necessary pieces and so on for about $200 extra. Problem I seem to having with the sump - I have the moroso rear hump sump. There seems to be no aftermarket drop in windage trays for circuit racing. I happy to modify but as you say there are no definitive answers around. I was thinking to just bust off my hump and put some "an" fittings into it and buy the necessary parts for a dry sump. I know its overkill, but as mentioned previously it will eliminate one potential problem. The process of getting the car to this stage has been a long one. Certain things have been re-done (ie exhaust, fuel system) when problems have arose. If I were to dry sump now, it would possible pave the way for a bigger dollar motor rebuild if I were to blow again. I couldn't justify say $10k on a motor and not put a decent oil system into it. I just finished putting about $4k worth of brakes on this sucker as I thought the old hilux caliper conversion was know where near up to the task.
  11. Kind of looks like those chicks that you see in photos wearing size 10 jeans when they have size 18 hips. Not mad, couldn't give a ****, let me guess, have you got that plastic brembo brake caliper covers also - since it all appears to be about looks rather than the performance
  12. more about the fact you have 9 inch rims (at a guess) I own a tyre shop and I could fit those - but I wouldn't.
  13. Sorry bud, but that tyre stretching on those rims looks silly. your car would handle so much better with a narrower rim and fatter tyre.
  14. Well, it had to happen and it did. Blew the motor at my last trackday, two rod ends retrieved from the bottom of the block via one smashed up piston. Looks like my valve springs survived and thats about it. Probably have the motor out tomorrow then we will think about the process as funds are getting tighter. I have another $1000 LS1 sitting on the shelf and I think I may put a big stick in that one and give it a run. My blown motor had over 220000 kms and survived my abuse for a year. Am considering blowing $3k+ on a dry sump setup to eliminate a potential cause of my blow up. Otherwise se may just modify the moroso sump with more windage trays. Don't think I want to blow a heap of cash on building a motor yet - I seem to be able to get 400+hp atw at the moment from my $1000 jobbies.
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