GaZed

Looks like it to me. The Ar1s are nice wheels, but IIRC they only come in a 7" wide. George

Hi Dave, I did this some 12 years ago, and it was a great modification. As I recall I had to fabricate some short 90 degree brake lines at the caliper end. The Earl lines from Motorsports are what I used...no problem. The main steel brake lines needed to be rerouted. The bracket to which the clip attaches the brake line was either unbolted or cut off as you will see in the pictures. Some time was spent moving that brackets around so that it would not interfer with the wheel and half-shafts when the full weight of the car was applied to the wheels. Once installed, the new lines made a tremendous improvement. I since have heard many good thing about Goodridge teflone steel braided lines. Here are some pictures I hope they help! Best regards, George

This is a 1977 280Z. it has ROH 17x8 Snyper wheels with 255x40x17 Yokohama tires. Suspension has been lowered via coilovers. Brakes upgraded to crossdrilled vented rotors/4 piston calipers in the front and solid crossdrilled rotors/sliding piston calipers in the rear. Downside, no ebrake. George

I have had these ROH Snyper wheels for about 10 years. They are 17x8 and the tires are 255x40x17 Yokohamas. All told it moved the car a quantum jump over the OE wheels. George

Looks like a ROTA RB wheel. They are currently made in the Phillipines and the company looks very credible. George

I installed my four piston calipers from a Toyota 4Runner onto my 280Z about 9 years ago. I went with vented rotors and had them cross drilled. The stopping power is incredible! I also installed a Wilwood proportioning valve just to fine tune it. Lastly, the larger brake cylinder. For the rears crossdrilled 280ZX rotors IIRC. Apart from not having an ebrake it's a great setup George

Sorry wrong thread - never mind

I installed my four piston calipers from a Toyota 4Runner onto my 280Z about 9 years ago. The stopping power is incredible! Has anyone else gone that route? George

The Nissan service manual for a 1977 280Z states that the fuel pressure should be at 36.3 psi. This fuel pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator. Furthermore, the manual states that if the pressure in the fuel line rises over 43-64 psi due to trouble in the pressure system, a relief valve in the pump will open. My guess is that pump probably puts out about 40 psi. BEGi (Bell Engineering) makes a Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (which I understand they originally designed) that connects to the return fuel line and will bump up the fuel pressure as needed during high demand accelaration and then return to stock pressure during normal driving. I've not bought one as of yet - so I havn't put my money where my mouth is [an occasional shoe lace ... yes a few times]. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Things can be so ironic. My Z was a non - A/C and I replaced everything to make it stock A/C. In the non - A/C model the only vacuum line ran off the back of the manifold to control the door actuator that closes that big flap on the blower motor housing. Other wise it's all mechanical. I have no idea what I did with the parts. I did that about 13 years ago. I need my A/C.

In regards to cutting out the deflectors out of the plastic air vent, I did that also and sealed the two side outputs so all the air flows through the center vent. Even when everything was well sealed the air flow from the side vents was marginal at best so I decided they had to go. All the weather stripping from the top of the blower motor housing all the way to the actual vent needs to be sealed. I pulled the motor and housing out and did a direct hook up to the battery. I was expecting an anemic little motor instead it almost became airborn. Wonder if I could use a few of those things for a hovercraft? Anyway, airflow is very good all the way around. Two other culprets in this system are: 1. The two mechanically activated flaps on either side of the heater core. I took out both flaps and rebent the loop on the wire connectors so they would not slip off everytime I hit a bump. 2. The Air Intake Door Actuator must be doing it job and a cracked vacuum line either on that end or on the vacuum selector end can really cripple the system. My problem is finding a squirrel-cage...guess it's time for a junk yard trip. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Sorry, must have pressed a wrong key! 2. The air flow meter was replaced by one from a 600 series BMW. [Don't remember the exact series number, but I can look it up in my notes.] This AFM looks like it's on steroids. 3. Bore out and match the manifold intake to the larger throttle body. I think the "Big Throat" was 70 mm in diameter [could be wrong - wouldn't be the first time. I can check my notes if need be.]. 4. Headers [Ceramic coat - optional but worth every penny for longevity and heat reduction, at least in theory] for better flow 6-2 from Motor sports. 5. 2.5" diameter exhaust pipe with a twin pipe resonator + free flow muffler[great serious sound without the volume intensity]. The AFM was the last item I replaced, and it moved my shiftpoint from 3000 RPM to 4000 RPMs without breaking a sweat. That engine winds out so nicely, I never thought it was possible. Gas mileage was greatly improved 21-22 mpg in the city, about 27-28 mpg on the freeway. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

The Big Throat was made by Weber as in Weber carborators for the the 280Z. It imported into the US by Redline Inc. [interco Kit No. TB280]. I have one on my Z. The improvement is marginal if the whole intake and exhaust system is not enlarged. The stock throttle body was incredibly small, it was a wonder any air got through. The following changes were made: 1. The air box was replace by a K&N cone filter