Al Keller

Hello, I've searched this site and the HID sites and I'm still not sure I understand how to make this conversion and what to use. I'm using a G nose with covers over the light buckets. The wiring harness will be custom so it can be updated to support all the proper bits and pieces. I understand the balast,relays, transformer but... Can I convert the 7" headlamp bucket to hold the projector (like a 90mm Hella unit) with an adaptor, wire it up, seal it up and call it a day? I like the looks of 280ZForce's set up a lot. Thank a lot for your help. Al Keller

Do any of you live in or near Vancouver, Wa?? I may be moving out there for a new job! Al Keller

Hello, I'm up in the Akron/Canton area and have a good (not perfect) set of fenders (and lots of other parts) from a '72. Make you a heck of a deal to clean out my garage a little!! Al Keller Hartville, OH 330-877-9189

Do any of you live in NE Ohio? In Ohio? Al Keller

Thanks again - this is great information. I'll check the doors out tomorrow. The car will be used mostly on the street. I'm building a replica IMSA GTU car with full tube chassis, 408 sbf, C4 'vette front and rear suspension. The hood is fiberglass - if I can afford it, I'll use a 'glass hatch. Want to get as much weight as possible out of the car. Anyone know if you can use the stock window roll up, lock, etc in and 'glass door? Really appreciate your help. Al

Jon, Thingy ...... trying to baffle me with technical talk!! I'll check it out. What do you think the difference in weight is between a "loaded" 240 door and a 280 door? May not be worth screwing with. Thanks, Al

Thanks for the information. Is it possible that these are 280z doors? What's the difference? There is a "track-like" reinforcing piece fastened to the inside of the door skin. The rest is operating mechanism for the window, door handle and lock. I do have a full cage. Can 'glass doors accept the operating mechanisms? Thanks, Al

I didn't weight the doors but damn they're heavy. Have any of you worked on yours? I need functional windows, handles and locks. As always, your help is appreciated. Al Keller

That's good news. I assume they go on the inside of the glass?? Price? Payment terms? Thank you, Al

Are these still available? Thank you, Al

I should have been more explicit... It is a '72 with a full tube chassis. The floor pan runs underneath the 2"x3" main chassis rails. The suspension is C4 Corvette front and rear with coil overs. I read several threads here that helped but didn't really answer the question - If you're running 5" - 6" ground clearance on the street and the exhaust pipes need to be 3" in diameter (or equivalent in oval/rectangular) to support the engine output, will exhaust pipes under the car work or should I go straight to side pipes? Thanks very much, Al

The Z I'm building will have 5" of ground clearance from the bottom of the frame rails. From your experience, is this enough to run the exhaust under the car or do I need to use side pipes? What about the rectangular pipes? I really appreciate your help! Al Keller

Hello, If you're interested, I've got a Jeg's 10 point cage that I will not be using. I think I paid around $250. I'm in Ohio and can ship via UPS (I believe - fairly cheap). Let me know if you're interested. Al al_keller@earthlink.net

I've discovered that there are several sizes of L88 scoops available from small (like this one) to very large like the one Speedway Motors sells. I'm going to use the Speedway part because it is larger and much more aggressive-looking. It is long enough to act as an air intake at the base of the windshield an an exit for the hot air coming off the radiator if you choose to open the front of the scoop to the engine compartment. Good luck, Al Keller