Al Keller

Hello, I've searched this site and the HID sites and I'm still not sure I understand how to make this conversion and what to use. I'm using a G nose with covers over the light buckets. The wiring harness will be custom so it can be updated to support all the proper bits and pieces. I understand the balast,relays, transformer but... Can I convert the 7" headlamp bucket to hold the projector (like a 90mm Hella unit) with an adaptor, wire it up, seal it up and call it a day? I like the looks of 280ZForce's set up a lot. Thank a lot for your help. Al Keller

Do any of you live in or near Vancouver, Wa?? I may be moving out there for a new job! Al Keller

Hello, I'm up in the Akron/Canton area and have a good (not perfect) set of fenders (and lots of other parts) from a '72. Make you a heck of a deal to clean out my garage a little!! Al Keller Hartville, OH 330-877-9189

Do any of you live in NE Ohio? In Ohio? Al Keller

Thanks again - this is great information. I'll check the doors out tomorrow. The car will be used mostly on the street. I'm building a replica IMSA GTU car with full tube chassis, 408 sbf, C4 'vette front and rear suspension. The hood is fiberglass - if I can afford it, I'll use a 'glass hatch. Want to get as much weight as possible out of the car. Anyone know if you can use the stock window roll up, lock, etc in and 'glass door? Really appreciate your help. Al

Jon, Thingy ...... trying to baffle me with technical talk!! I'll check it out. What do you think the difference in weight is between a "loaded" 240 door and a 280 door? May not be worth screwing with. Thanks, Al

Thanks for the information. Is it possible that these are 280z doors? What's the difference? There is a "track-like" reinforcing piece fastened to the inside of the door skin. The rest is operating mechanism for the window, door handle and lock. I do have a full cage. Can 'glass doors accept the operating mechanisms? Thanks, Al

I didn't weight the doors but damn they're heavy. Have any of you worked on yours? I need functional windows, handles and locks. As always, your help is appreciated. Al Keller

That's good news. I assume they go on the inside of the glass?? Price? Payment terms? Thank you, Al

Are these still available? Thank you, Al

I should have been more explicit... It is a '72 with a full tube chassis. The floor pan runs underneath the 2"x3" main chassis rails. The suspension is C4 Corvette front and rear with coil overs. I read several threads here that helped but didn't really answer the question - If you're running 5" - 6" ground clearance on the street and the exhaust pipes need to be 3" in diameter (or equivalent in oval/rectangular) to support the engine output, will exhaust pipes under the car work or should I go straight to side pipes? Thanks very much, Al

The Z I'm building will have 5" of ground clearance from the bottom of the frame rails. From your experience, is this enough to run the exhaust under the car or do I need to use side pipes? What about the rectangular pipes? I really appreciate your help! Al Keller

Hello, If you're interested, I've got a Jeg's 10 point cage that I will not be using. I think I paid around $250. I'm in Ohio and can ship via UPS (I believe - fairly cheap). Let me know if you're interested. Al al_keller@earthlink.net

I've discovered that there are several sizes of L88 scoops available from small (like this one) to very large like the one Speedway Motors sells. I'm going to use the Speedway part because it is larger and much more aggressive-looking. It is long enough to act as an air intake at the base of the windshield an an exit for the hot air coming off the radiator if you choose to open the front of the scoop to the engine compartment. Good luck, Al Keller

Racer, Thanks for posting these great pictures. What beautiful cars!! Have any of you seen any of these GTU cars at vintage races? Al Keller

Incredible! The wheels are CCWs?? Thank you VERY much - I'm going to finish my IMSA GTU replica this year and am trying to choose between the blue and the red. This helps me a lot! Al Keller

Great work! Technology is fantastic - just wish I understood it more!! Can you do a really bright red? What are the wheels on this car?? Al Keller

I started my project a while ago and came across a few companies that used to make fiberglass body panels that allowed you to duplicate the black car in question. It also came to light that there were at least 2 different width rear (and front?) body panels - the really wide ones (like the black car) would handle 15" wide rear wheels. Evedently, IMSA changed the rules to force the Zs to use narrower (12"?) wheels in the rear so the Porsches could keep up! I found my body panels used (the "narrower" ones) and filed all the other source information away - I'll see if I can find the info. One was a guy that had the body panels (YZ and 940Z) John Washington now sells - possibly John got those molds as well? Another was Arizona Z. There was another that just faded away over the last few years - I gave him an order for all of the body panels but he never did anything. More than a year later, I found the used panels and they were made by this guy originally! Another set of molds belong to the guy that bought Frassille's 197? IMSA GTU champion car. Another was a fiberglass panel company that may or may not be in business now. I talked to the guy who has Bob Sharp's cars, but he wasn't interested in making molds. Again, I'll see if I can find this info. The set I've got are useable with a lot of body work so I'm ok. I would like to have another set that won't take so much body work though! If some one like John was interested in making molds, I could make mine available as masters. The front fenders are slightly wider than the G-nose and I do not have the air dam. Pictures of the GTU cars are hard to come by but the cars are getting more track time now on the vintage race circuit. Maybe someone has photos that they could share. Al Keller

There are a number of magazines that feature vintage racing. One is Grassroots Motorsports. Check out Border's or Barns & Nobel. Al

John, Thanks for the reply. 1. At rest - were should the hood vents be located? In front, in back, half way, would it make any difference? 2. Moving - If I wanted to "pull" the air out of the engine compartment, how should I do it? What does pulling the hot air out of the compartment to the low pressure area under the car do for the aerodynamics of the car (i.e. lift)? I just found some more threads in the "high tech" section. Maybe there will be some ideas there. Thanks again, Al

I've searched the Hybrid Z archives and am more confused than when I started. How do you get the hot air out of the engine compartment efficiently? I'm trying to: 1. Keep the engine compartment cooler. 2. Keep the interior cooler. 3. Help reduce air build-up/lift under the front of the car. The car will have a G-nose with air dam, ducting to funnel the air thru the radiator, 2-11"fans to pull air thru the radiator, an L-88 type air scoop to help feed air into the carb air box. Would it help to remove some of the inner wheel well? Maybe C5 Corvette style side vents behind the wheel well? HELP!!! Thanks, Al Keller

What about the "torque tube" idea ala Porsche 924/944/928 ?? Al

Hello, Where can you purchase the Pansport c8s? Al Keller

Hello, The conversion of my '72 is well underway but months from completion. I'd like to be included if you guys decide to get together. I live outside of Akron/Canton, OH - about 2 hours west of Pittsburgh. Al Keller 800-448-2288 ext 109