kvansic162

If I can get a neo rb25det($2700.00 with the tranny and everything needed) vs puting a turbo on my N/A L6 for about the same money..... ( oh and my tranny I have now needs to go because it is gridding) what would you do? It is a show car.....I don't race it but power is nice. Helpful suggestions would be nice, rude comments aren't.

I guess I'll just keep the n47 head I have on the car now. It has the sleeves still. I'l just bolt a stock turbo manifold on it and hit the boost.

That's what I was worried about.....I guess it is just a piece of aluminum scrab now...no worries.

I didn't know that when I did it. Now that it is done....is the head junked.

thanks for the offer .....I have another one on the side...

I took the exhaust sleeves out of a N-47 head. is it still ok to use?

I also want to put a turbo manifold on a round port n-47 head...Any suggestions?

In a Z it is hard not to!

I have and as always I get mixed answers!!!!!!!!!!

I figured on running 5 or 6 pounds of boost.

Which head is the best to use on a 77 L series block. I am using the 10:1 comp pistons from nissan motorsports. I plan on adding a turbo later on. I have a megasquirt system with methanol injection. Right now I have a N-47 head. I it worth changing to a p90 or p79 head?

Well I guess I'll set the car up for 6 pounds and see what happens. If it blows ....oh well.

Found it. It must have changed from the old address I used to use. Sorry for my ignorance.

I can't get lonewolfperformance.com to come up on my computer.

What happened to the lone wolf intakes site?

the over lap is 56. the camlift is .325. I alread have an hks 2mm head gasket. Originally I had 250 pounds of comp. per cylinder. I retarded the cam to -6 degrees and brought the comp down to 225 per cylinder.Methanal injection allows me to use pump gas.

I plan on using the hi-6 ignition with the boost retard controller. I'm more worried about the cam profile being a problem. I've heard an agressive NA cam is not good with turbo's.

Would I gain anything put a turbo on a 10:1 compression engine using a 480 lift and 274 duration cam? I have methanol injection on it now . I would also put an intercooler on it. I have a megasquirt system and extras. I would only run 5 to 6 pounds of boost.

Well after several tuning attemps, resets, voltage stabilizers, filters...etc. I think I solved my problem. I had a voltage problem. I put a GM alternator on my 79 which gave it more amps. After sill seeing a voltage drop a ran a high quality 8 gauge wire wire from the charge post to the battery. No more volage drops. Lights, electric fan, stereo ....all on and up in the 14 volt area at idle! The car performs great . I also put a snow performance water injection kit on . I spray 50/50 water and methanol. What a blast. No more octane boost. 93 pump gas an a littler methanol spray(10:1 comp) and perfect. Thanks to all who helped me in the past. Kirk.

On the flyback....PWM is at 30....idles great.

I'm running MS1 3.0 which according to DIY has the flyback board already intstalled.

Nothing.....I'm using a harness made by DIY that goes from the relay board to the MS.

I have a 4 gauge ground wire from the battery going to a soild distribution block, which is also grounded to the car body. I use the block to ground the MS relay block and the wide band LC-1. Should I ground the relay block straight to the battery?

Thanks to Z-ya and his injector scope , the car is running much better. I still get resets once in a while and when it happens you can feel it. I'm going to check the circuit boards for cracks ( as posted by Z-ya) I put this noise filter on the main power line. Every one said it was over kill, yet I get a reset once in a while. Could I be getting noise off the ignition turn on wire. Does that one need to be filtered also? I have the 3.0 board which from what I've been told has the "Dave Cap." I also pull my tach signal from the Hi-6 ignition box, not the coil. I put Magnecor wires on the car. Could the stock dizzy cause this problem? I bought my MS from DIY, I did not assemble it.

I think Z-ya is on to fixing my problem that has stumped me for months. So far all I did was change my injector PWM time from 1.0 to 1.5 per Z-ya's advice and I couldn't believe the difference. I had that damm stumble every time I switched gears. It seems to be alot better. Now I have to set all the other settings,but only one at a time. Thanks Z-ya....You don't know the service you have done with your test.