subtle_driver
-
Posts
164 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by subtle_driver
-
-
I dont see the exit flange on there. Unless im blind.
-
I tried to search for a flange, so I can make my own downpipe for my l28et swap into my 240z, on google and here, but no luck. The flange I need is the four bolt to downpipe.
-
77-78 280z gas tank $120 need gone asap! http://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/pts/3693085753.html local pickup only.
-
looking for some parts to swap in my l28et before my wedding in two months, (smoke screen burnout is me dream when leaving in gettaway car, 240z) so i prefer cheap and local to 92128, San Diego Area i'll pick up.
my number is 760-315-2372
if there are some things missing chime in.
obx lsd for r200 or any other cheap option,
350z clutch,
280z gas tank,
fuel line,
255lph external walbro pump,
3" v-band
etc..
i have wire harness, ecu, and engine. im betting the injectors are toast.
thanks!!!
-
Wow, thanks for the information!!! I was worried about the pressure plate fitting in the 280z bellhousing, I also deal with subaru and the sti clutch was too big to fit the wrx trans... better to ask than find out the hard way.
I also want to swap a 240sx trans, was it hard?
-
I adjust my valves hot. I let the motor get a few degrees hotter than normal, unplug fan.. so I have more time to work. I have to pull strut bar and valve cover ASAP. then do the hot adjustment.
-
Check your wipe pattern first. When you install a performance cam the pattern can be too far off the lash pads. This can damage your cam and wear everything out fast. If the lash pattern is near center you are a happy camper, assuming everything else is fine. Clean the lash pads and marker it up. Then rotate cam and see where it gets wiped off. If its too far to the side u need to change your lash pads to thinner or thicker ones.
-
Check your wipe pattern first. When you install a performance cam the pattern can be too far off the lash pads. This can damage your cam and wear everything out fast. If the lash pattern is near center you are a happy camper, assuming everything else is fine. Clean the lash pads and marker it up. Then rotate cam and see where it gets wiped off. If its too far to the side u need to change your lash pads to thinner or thicker ones.
-
Hi guys, I spent some hours trying to find this clutch trans and flywheel combo but couldnt find a confirmed answer.
I have a 73 240z with l24 and 280zx non-turbo 5-speed transmission. I'm currently using a stock l24 flywheel and clutch. I kept a stock rb20det flywheel off of the rb20det i sold. My goal is to install an l28et (automatic) into my 240z with this rb20 flywheel and a 350z clutch. My concerns are it will not clear the bell housing, too big for starter to line up and im not sure if my current release bearing/collar will work properly. I want to get this done in one shot if possible :
so to make it simple for others who are searching this option:
my setup:
73 240z,
l28 turbo engine,
280zx 5-speed non-turbo (nissan transmission NOT borgwarner)
280zx clutch release collar 90% sure, (not 100% confirmed, possibly stock 240z)
I would like to have it ready for a gettaway car on my wedding in about 3 months on a tight budget. I'm also having a heck of a time finding l28 turbo to 240z install write-ups with lots of pictures
been searching google and here but i must be a freakin' idiot since i havent found anything with lots of pics and wiring help for days. (very frustrated)thanks for your help!
-
I'm confused. So this OBX diff is confirmed to bolt in to a 280z r200, or a 280zx 3.90 diff? I have a 3.90 from a 280zx with halfshafts in my 240z and want to buy this and the install kit. Will it work?
-
I sold the car a few years back. They took off the turbo, painted valve cover black, and never gave me my front mesh wheels back. I don't have new videos. But I'm sure u can find some on YouTube.... Maybe I'll find some and post here. But I won't be on here for a while.
-
I strongly disagree with you guys, I made my own muffler and recirculated the waste gate into the main exhaust, sounds brilliant. Also the n/a setup with unequal length headers sounded feintly like a subaru.
open wg sounds like a massive exhaust leak and causes spiking. -
I'm going l24 turbo next...
-
ok so not safe to proportion the fronts, and no way to increase the rear pressure if i bypass the stock proportioning valve??
-
yes, got bored and made this with a rental car. i know its not my 240z.... but hey. entertaining at least.
-
I have a set of vented 300zx rotors from a z31 with spacers from zrace products and 4-piston toyota 4-runner calipers up front, and in the rear, 240sx non-abs rear calipers and non-vented z31 rotors. The master cylinder is a 1979 280zx unit.
problem is I am locking the fronts up too easily. I need to make the rear brake bias percentage higher than what they are now. How do i go about this? I am thinking to bypass the stock proportioning valve and install an adjustable willwood unit for the rear brakes. I do a lot of autocross and rallycross with this car. and i drive mountain roads to work every day. i want to dial in the brakes so it will stop better and be safer and improve my autocross times. it seems to me like they are 90% front almost. i know if i can bring more braking power to the rear i will knock off a few seconds from my times and make it more predictable.
i miss the stock brakes as it would stop perfectly till you overheated them....
I am looking for a few different options. please don't reply unless you have done this yourself. thanks!
-
check this out! you can worry less about your iphone when you work on your car! facebook.com/lifeproofcases
and here is a contest to win a case that ends soon:
My fiancee started this contest, and I thought to post it here to maybe help out a fellow nissan/infiniti guy! It only takes 25 seconds to enter! I got this case and its freaking awesome! here is a chance to win one for free. they cost $80 at Best Buy. You can drop your phone in the bucket of coolant and leave it there forever! its smaller and stronger than the otterbox! good luck!
http://www.facebook.com/LifeProofCases/posts/257177240993843
-
A couple more photos attached below of installation (
make sure to remove strut brace, mechanical fan and throttle linkage before lifting the engine with a jack and wood): -
I have been Beating up on this Set of McKinney Motorsports engine mounts for over a year! I had my doubts as I usually go through a set of stock ones in less than 6 months, a year if i'm lucky! I was blown away with the quality, fit-and-finish, looks, and durability of this product! One of the most exciting upgrades for the L-Series in recent memory!
Very Comfortable even for daily driving. You will notice more engine feedback and a large amount of power response to the ground compared to the stock mounts. A huge and rewarding benefit well worth the money! I give this product a perfect score! There are no complaints and it is easy to install with just basic hand tools and a jack with a piece of wood to hold the oil pan when supporting the engine or transmission. It would take about 30 minutes for the average z-enthusiast to install.
I do a lot of racing! Every other weekend Im at the Autocross tearing it up in my z, I also attend SDCR Rally Cross, and The most abuse from Daily Driving and Clutch kicking and drifting at the SD Club Racing Gymkhana and Series! All this abuse and driving has not caused any wear on the mounts. Don't waste you're money on stock or cheap aftermarket, get these and they will last!
Enjoy the review! LMK what you think and if you have questions don't be afraid to ask
-
testing a course design with my 240z:
New location testing with my friend's Hyundai!
I'll stop by Pepboys this week for those 10mm spacers, It never hurts to have different sizes! Thanks for the pointer!
BTW I have 60mm extended studs no problem for me! I also am the Director of the SD Club Racing Rallycross, so its easy to pass tech since I'm tech'ing my own car! LOL!
-
I think i would buy the ones with the longer studs. Some send the studs along with the spacer. Just use the spacer and set the studs aside.
If they come with the studs installed, pound them out and install spacer. Solved.
I did buy some spacers only off ebay for my own. Same as you I had longer studs. They were fine for the rear but the centers had to be machined larger for the front hubs.
I found a seller that sells just the spacers with the correct center bore!
thanks for your help.
-
I would really advise not using wheel spacers. Maybe you can find some different wheels that will clear the brakes? I am not sure what you are working with here as far as class regulations.
I'm using stock wheels, I need wheel spacers to clear my brakes. Do you know where I can get them?
-
I'm looking for wheel spacers without buying a set of studs, 15mm for my 240z.
Anyone know where i can find those? I am always finding them, but they include the longer studs and i already have those.
It needs to have a 73mm center bore, 15mm thick, stock 4-lug pattern. I need to clear the brakes, I'm installing my stock steelies with some dirt tires.
I also need them before next weekend 12th of Sept, I'm running a rally race in Live Oaks, CA East of El Cajon. I have been searching for a while, and I'm running out of time.
Thanks!
-
$150.00 throw-away (sr20de swap rescued) ka24de with $30 ebay manifold, $35 used 35mm wastegate and junkyard $80 holset turbo, Throw in $6 each Rx7 injectors with a $9 ford probe fuel rail (honda inlet hose), $20 stock turbo Neon intercooler, and stock ECU with home made chipped daughter-board ($20) Makes more power and a lot more torque than your average LS1 to the wheels. I'm not a hater, just saying that if you think you have yo have a lot of money to be fast, you are wrong! It just takes a lot of time and effort and knowledge and extremely well laid plans to make a fast car with less money. Don't throw away money on things that don't work effectively. If i had more money to spend....
Here is the Dyno sheet for all the lazy people to see!
I only picked a couple of pulls, we made maybe 7 or 8 pulls and adjusted the fuel pressure, boost controller and timing map. I installed a Blitz dual solenoid controller for that day because I wanted to have a safety margin, on the dyno. You can see the dropping of power on the graph when the safety feature kicked in to lower the boost pressure. I was planning to do a 25 psi and up pull, like we did countless hundreds of times on the track and street, but the hp wouldn't have gone up much more with the stock 2nd gen cams, and I was worried about the stock rods handling much more than 400 foot lbs of torque. When i saw it made over 300hp on the 1st pull, i was like, "Naaah, I'm not gonna blow it up, I want to make the 40 minute drive home." lol.
here are the videos, sorry about the video flip microphone getting totally annihilated by the turbo intake sound.
been searching google and here but i must be a freakin' idiot since i havent found anything with lots of pics and wiring help for days. (very frustrated)
open wg sounds like a massive exhaust leak and causes spiking.
where can I order a l28et stock turbo outlet flange?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by subtle_driver
The flange on thel28et stock turbo wg housing is rectangle pattern, the ones on the link you sent look square.
Here is a pic of the stock outlet for reference:
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w332/uthawki/Brown%20car/104_2059.jpg