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biohazard53188

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Posts posted by biohazard53188

    F54 Block (Short or Long)

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted · Edited by biohazard53188

    I have one which is +1mm overbored and decked, ready to be built up.  Its been painted a bright yellow (What possessed me to do that?) and has freeze plugs installed.  I'm a little drive away but I'm open to offers.

    WTB: Shift Lever (shifter) 4-speed

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    Hi all,

     

    Looking for a shift lever to use with my 72 4-speed transmission.  I have the bushings, pin and knob on order so those aren't important to me.  Just any compatible Z lever (with the little circular bushings) is what I need.  My local pick-n-pull is hurting at the moment.  Name your shipped price to 95630, I can Paypal you right away.

     

    Thanks!

    87mm Piston Options

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hey guys, so about a year ago I had a set of forged Ross pistons from MSA that I was going to put into my turbo block. Basically, everything was ready to go, my block had been machined and prepared, I just had to file my rings down to spec and drop those sexy pieces of forged goodness into their 87mm homes. The only issue was, 6 months prior I left for the Army. When I came back home I lost interest in spending money on Z's, (I know.. blasphemy :rolleyes: ) so I sold them and kept the block just in case.

     

    My problem now lies with being bit by the bug once more and trying to locate pistons that will fit my needs as I can't justify spending that much money on premium forged ones like before. I feel my power goals are too modest (sub 300hp) to fork out 800 bucks alone on those a second time. I've searched the forums and the web alike but I am still not sure what pistons from other vehicles or makes will work for my application.

     

    Basically, I want anything that is quality and will fit my 87mm bore. Cast pistons are fine, I just want quality. Any recommendations because I cant find anything that I know will work due to my ignorance on the subject. Should I just go to 89mm and use the KA pistons that are common in the 3.1L builds? How can I tell if a piston is compatible with the l28 Rods?

     

    Thanks guys, sorry for the noobness... Ive been on here to long for this nonsense on my part :lol:

    WTB: P90 Head

    in Parts Wanted

    Posted

    I may have one available, Ill know by Friday, Its a p90A with hydraulic lifters. Would you be interested?

     

    I am interested. Shoot me a PM with how much you are looking to get for it.

     

     

    I have one rebuilt ready to go. email Zguy240@gmail.com.

     

    I'm looking for something I can rebuild myself to keep the cost factor down but I really appreciate it, my fault for not specifying.

     

     

    I have a P90 with about 40k original miles on it. 150.00 plus shipping.

     

    Are you flexible on the price? Hydro lifters or solid? Cam and all?

    tokico hp vs illuminas

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    Its a pretty good deal. I sell the kit for $527 which basically matches the eBay sellers price (including shipping). The kit weighs in close to 50 lbs. so actual shipping costs can be close to $50 if its shipped cross country. My price does not include shipping, but then again you get to ask me questions if you have problems installing it... :-)

     

    Haha nice plugging your business there John. I'm glad you mentioned that you do sell these kits. I will be buying mine from you instead in the near future. I would rather buy it from somebody reputable like yourself than somebody on eBay.

    tokico hp vs illuminas

    in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis

    Posted

    I'm humongous, corpulent, fat, call it what you will. With a similarly porportioned friend in the car the Tokiko Illuminas give a nice controlled ride, while the HP's felt like worn out stockers to me.

     

    If you have weight in the car, the damping reacts differently than something light. Like John C said, it's the combination that can make things feel rougher than they really are.

     

    My experience has been comparable with John Mortensen's, except that one day I forgot to put the things back onto "1" for the highway drive from a car event....and it was almost 6 months before I realized it. Highway driving and maybe 'getting used to the control' made me drive around on 5 since.

     

    I live down a washboard road. Not everyplace in CA is like you see in the commercials. In fact, the roads downright suck in most places as the state is...no. No, I won't go there.

     

    "The roads aren't as smooth out here as you are led to believe!"

     

    So whats the general thought about this spring/shock combo?

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-74-75-78-76-260Z-280Z-Tokico-ILK-Suspension-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQitemZ230291492526

     

    Seems like a good deal to me, keep in mind I have a limited amount of experience in this subject.

    300whp 3.1L N/A possible?

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    300 whp Turbo would be cheaper than 300whp NA. I can build a 300hp Turbo for around 2k.

     

    1. Unopened turbo long block $500

    2. Holset turbo $350

    3. intercooler. and piping and bov. $300

    4. Megasquirt $400ish

    5. 440cc injectors depending on where you get them $300

     

    There ya go a decent recipe that can get you more than 300whp

     

    I would agree, I think 300whp would be less complicated and cheaper on a turbo L28. By less complicated I mean stock crank, rods etc. You would be surprised how much you will get ripped on just the LD28 crank alone. I think the strokers are very impressive however. Just my oppinion though.

    Changing Oil: Hot or Cold

    in Drivetrain

    Posted

    My dad is a Mechanical engineer in his late 60's. He always told me to change the oil when it is cold so all the used oil can settle in the pan and it is much easier to work on.

     

    I'm curious if doing this cold could cause more wear to the motor, being that once drained and cold, oil presure is needed to be built up before parts begin to be lubricated. Where as warm, everything has a nice coating from recently being run.

     

    Thoughts? Or even if there is more wear, the difference is not significant.

     

    Changing the oil hot is a much better idea. It will get all of the gunk off the sides of the oil pan/crankcase. If you let the engine sit some deposits can form and will not drain out with the cold oil.

    is cutting body a must on zg flares??

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    hi guys. i know the normal route with most zg flares is cutting the body arches.

     

    has anyone just bonded over standard body and have you any pics.

     

    i realise putting wider wheels is the whole point of the flares nowadays but i thought if i didn't lower the car too much i could still fill arches without the dreaded butchering. once again guys thanks for input.

     

    Did you try a search? I think you would be defeating the purpose of the flares. Im going to set aside the honda civic jokes for this one.

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