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5 Star Rising

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5 Star Rising last won the day on October 8 2019

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About 5 Star Rising

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  • Birthday 05/01/1978

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    Humboldt County Northern CA Coast

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  1. Update: so I got the car running on its own for the first time in 20 years!! At first I plugged all the vacuum hoses which I'm sure helped a little but the car would still not start, it would do the same thing... try to start but never catch. I had adjusted the choke cable before and the choke levers would move a little when pulling the choke cable as far back as possible but the car would still not start. So I got a crazy idea to choke them myself. I put autobody masking tape over both carbs completely and when trying to start, it acted different but still would not start...Then I poked a small hole in each piece of tape on each carb and low and behold she started, it ran rough but it was enough to warm up the car. Then I was able to adjust and balance the carbs with my Air Flow meter. Now it starts every time, but then again I haven't tried to start it when it's cold again yet. But some huge progress was made....There was fiery embers flying out of the engine from all the tree leafs, pine needles and spider webs that had some how got in the motor from sitting 20 years.. I let it burn out the best I could with a garden hose near by just incase.. Tomorrow I will pressure wash the motor again to hopefully get all that debri out. It definitely has a exhaust leak at the manifold and also a coolant leak under the intake somewhere. But SHE RUNS!! , Revs up then idles. Thanks for the input
  2. Thanks, I found that post, but it doesnt seem to go into detail about the carbs that much. More about restoring a 73 back to stock. I'm going to try to plug any vacuum leaks I have. The car also has a loud exhaust leak at the manifold, wonder if I have a bad leak on the intake as well possibly causing a big vacuum leak. Wish I could get this thing running long enough to diagnose what the heck is going on without pulling the motor apart first.
  3. First I know that I should throw these Flat Top carbs in the Garbage Can and get some Round tops but I only want to get this car started enough to move it around in my yard instead of pushing it. 1973 240z with auto trans all original. Hasn't ran in 20 years. Gas tank is cleaned out, new fuel filter, new fuel lines, put a new set of dual points on the distributor, new cap and rotor, new spark plugs and wires. Both site windows of the flat tops show fuel inside 3/4s of the way up.. I CAN GET THE CAR TO RUN ON STARTING FLUID. but it will die out once the fluid is out. Looks to have fuel pumping out of both lines at the carbs. Has factory electric fuel pump AND mechanical pump on this late 73. Blew out fuel lines with compressed air. I have not checked fuel pressure yet or timing. But car runs on starting fluid. Also thought maybe too many vacuum lines are unhooked and dont have vacuum in the carbs. Any advice to get this car to just idle and maybe drive around the yard using the factory components? I should also mention I ADDED a throttle spring in a odd spot as once the gas pedal was pushed in it would not retract, it works well now.
  4. Yeah I'm going to flip this 280z and thought while I have it, I (Could) do the swap, but it sounds like it's not worth the hassle. I dont plan on changing out the original L24 in my 71 only adding triple webbers..Should be fine, and yeah more weight would not help any. I didnt realize I needed to change the mustache bar and all that. I do like the idea of the limited slip from a LSD. But for now think I will just keep the original rear end. Thanks fellas.
  5. I have a early 71 240z that is a little modded. Triple webber carbs, 280z 5 speed tranny, coil overs, toyota upgrade calipers ect, rear Bre spoiler, front air dam, the rest of the car is all stock, these are things I could put back to stock if I ever wanted to do a stock series 1 rebuild. The other day I picked up a 77 280z with 4 speed tranny. I was thinking about swapping the rear end into my 240.. Questions, do I need to keep this series 1 rear end with my car or is it just a standard 240z rear end that I could get later if I ever wanted to go back to 100% stock? Is it worth it to do this swap? I think the R200 is a bit more stout and has a lower gear ratio than the 70-71 rear ends but not much. What is needed to do the swap?, driveline, different axles? Brackets, hoses, straps? Or is it a direct easy swap?. I already re-did my rear brakes on the 240z. I'm sure there is info on here on the swap but thought I would ask about my particular situation. Thanks in advance.
  6. Yeah, if it was a flat panel I think I could get away with bending a offset flange and sliding the panel behind, but because the panel has a moulded grove in it, it makes it almost impossible to flange it with that tool. The best approach might be to place some material behind the new panel like you suggested and the video suggests and butt weld it. I had a body shop guy come to my house and suggest overlapping but it doesn't make much sense to me doing it that way if nothing lines up correctly.
  7. Hey thanks, I just ordered some of those 01991 discs, looks like alot of people use them for that and like them..thanks. I was a little worried about a few things.. the pitch/angle of the new panel being that it is tucked behind the body, feels like there could be a weird section in the middle, like I might need a little too much mud to make it true? Not too fond of that.. The other worry is that the aftermarket panel is longer than the original and I need to make a precise cut with my die grinder of about a inch or so to keep the factory look crease/gap where the panel under the door meets the new quarter. This is my first time working with automotive panels like this and ofcourse I would be learning on my beloved series 1.. Haha, oh well I guess it could be fixed if I messed it up but at the expense of my wallet in a over priced body shop, here goes nothing..
  8. How do you guys install these lower quarter panels? I still haven't welded mine on yet, afraid I'm going to screw it up haha.
  9. Just now getting around to this area of the car again... I bought the replacement lower quarter panels. They seem a bit bigger than the stock section, I had to cut the top of the new panel down and it looks like I will have to cut the front of the new panel also as it over laps the body line crease under the door. Shit! I hope i don't screw this up. Taking my time. Already had to fabricate a bottom section that faces the wheel well as it was rotted out. I hit everything with rust stop Ospho metal treatment as far as I could spray up there and everywhere, then hit it with rust stop paint. Excepting pointers on mounting these new lower quarters if I haven't already screwed it up..
  10. Is this the jacking point section you are talking about? Its rotted a bit..
  11. Is yours a '72?  I would LOVE to know how to wire my after market stereo/antenna.  I would be thrilled if your method works for me.  Please help

    1. 5 Star Rising

      5 Star Rising

      It's a early 71 series 1..

  12. Found a few vids on YouTube about these little bastards. One said you needed a different throttle rod for the linkage to work with the stock components.
  13. I have rebuilt my round top SUs, but never opened up webers, I'm a little intimidated that springs and ball bearings might come flying out Haha j/k. Is there any good info in tearing these down? And are the jets and tubes numbered? Thanks
  14. Sold a car for part cash part trade for a set of Italian triple webers with linkage and a Cannon intake. They will be going on my series 1... I don't know alot about these carbs but I know alot of guys use these. I asked the guy about the history of them and he said they came off a running car, I asked if there was anything wrong with them and he said rebuild kits are cheap lol, so either there is something wrong with them or he honestly thinks they are good and maybe they are.. I'm guessing it's a little more than just bolting them up and seeing if they are good to go or not. Would you guys rebuild them first and not mess around putting them on the car till then? Also is there info on how to properly tune and set them up? I have a Air flow meter that I use for my SUs.. And lastly, what do you guys use for air filters on these things, they didnt come with any. I like the chrome air horns but don't know how they would keep from sucking in bad shit into the motor, do the little screens actually work vs like a k&n set up? Thanks
  15. Well wasted part of a Saturday. This new motor from the high priced junk yard is a POS. I told the guy to give me a good motor and check it good because I didn't want to waste each others time bringing it back. "We checked it out it's a great motor, there ain't nothin wrong with this motor". So I get it home and decide to change the rear main seal when I start looking closer and see that this $550 used junk yard motor has been cracked and repaired/welded and painted around the bell housing area. The guy told me that the fly wheel was damaged but the motor was good, I got to thinking why was the fly wheel was damaged at the time but he assured me just to use my flywheel and I would be fine. If you look at the dates circled in the bell housing it says 4/2018 and its crossed out then 4 months later it says 8/2018 in the same area. Thats telling me that the PO had to bring this thing into the shop twice for the same problem, next the car is found in the junk yard and it's not wrecked. Something probably not lining up correctly after the case damage, a crank problem or the way everything mounts up could be off center. I already wasted a few hours getting this new motor ready, bought another $75 in gaskets and seals (luckily didn't install them)...I dont want to spend hours putting this damn thing together and back in my car only to have to pull it out again. Its loaded in my truck and ready to go back to the junk yard Monday morning. The receipt says they charge a 25% restocking fee to get a refund, we will see about that..Back to square one.
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