Jump to content
HybridZ

5 Star Rising

Members
  • Content Count

    228
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1
  • Feedback

    0%

5 Star Rising last won the day on October 8 2019

5 Star Rising had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About 5 Star Rising

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 05/01/1978

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Humboldt County Northern CA Coast

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I took a break from this car, but I'm back at it and still have the hood issue obviously. I took some measurements from the ground to the first hood hinge bolt on each side and the passenger side of the car sits a whopping 5/8"s lower than the drivers side. It looks like everything is like 5/8 off. The drivers side of the hood sits up high and its hood hinge is bottomed out ontop of the bumper bracket and cant go down any further and that's even after slotting the holes. I could still slot the actual hood holes and that might bring down the hood on the drivers side But I would still hav
  2. Thanks for the heads up. Yeah I'm not sure what distributor this is for. It came from a 73 240z that someone had put a L28 in. It had the stock flat top carbs installed on it so I assumed they used the stock distributor too but you never know. Could be different to fit the L28 set up I'm not sure. Distributors are getting harder to find by these days and if you do they are pretty expensive.
  3. I'm going to mess with it later today. I was going to squirt some oil in the cylinders but cant find my little pump oiler can, going to find it later, pull the valve cover and oil every thing up. So the #1 cam lobe being straight up 12 o'clock while it's at TDC is not correct? Thought I read that some where but could be wrong. I had pulled and stabbed the distributor a few times and rolled the motor by hand to make sure it wasn't on the exhaust stroke. Crank pointer at Zero, cyl#1 to top of chamber and rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire on the cap. The linkage on the round top c
  4. So a few months ago I picked up another 240z. This 73 had been sitting in a guys garage for 20 years and I'm trying to start it for the first time. When I bought it, it was missing the distributor, the seller said he had pulled it and gave it to another guy that he had sold his other 240z to. Luckily I have a rusted 73 parts car but I dont know the history of that motor, it has a L28 in it with the 73 flat top carbs, I pulled the distributor from it, dont know if it's good but there is not much to them. I Installed a new set of points, and condensor, set the gap and put the distri
  5. This has definitely been a learning experience. I have the grill out now and the hinges are all the way down on the body on both sides you could see the gap difference from the radiator support to the bottom of hood when the hood is closed. Way bigger gap on the drivers side than the passenger side and the mounting bolts line up straight across to the radiator support in different locations. Body could be tweaked alittle. Think I will try to get some new burr bits tomorrow and wallow out the hood holes a little to drop the hood down on the right side hopefully.... Sucks
  6. Thanks Toolman that's great info. What I did last night before reading this post was swap my hinges and rods as a unit that was pulled out of a straight 1977 280Z. I noticed that these do not spring up when pushed down so that's good, however I still have some alignment issues. I slotted the tops of the hinges to be able to push them down farther while I had the unit out but didn't make that big of a difference.. Still the front of my hood on the driver's side sticks up and the side gaps are different with the drivers side gap being larger and the passenger side gap b
  7. Here is a few pics but be advised that I have "everything" loose so there really isn't a good picture to describe what I'm dealing with because every adjustment I make gives a different result but I cant seem to get everything lined up with out having one side too high and the other side perfect.. There is a picture of the passenger side of the car that has one of the tortion bars popped out of its track in the hinge assembly. Seemed like it lowered the front of the hood a little. My hinges would spring down when pushing on the hood and then spring back up above the fender when I
  8. Oh right! Well unfortunately I have that entire unit removed just to get the hood to sit flat first before adding the pin unit.
  9. The hood sometime hits the front grill top when opening and closing. Got it pretty low in the front. What catch bolt in the hood are you referring to? Not sure I follow.
  10. Hmm well that could be something right there also. I have full size head stainless bolts with a lock washer and regular washer. However I did remove all of those just to see if the hood would sit flat and it still didn't lay right. Almost like it's a teeter totter in the middle. It's not that drastic but definitely cant get it right. Going to take some photos and try the advice given.
  11. Ok so I think I really screwed up here but thought I would ask anyway 😔. I have a 71 series 1 240z 12/70. I painted it myself for the first time painting any car and it came out great, I spent countless hours on youtube and calling around for advice on what to do and what not to do what to use and what not to use, order of things to do it in. But this is something that I missed and wish I would have read it or done before I painted the car. ALIGN ALL THE PANELS FIRST then paint the car. I did it the opposite and now I think I'm screwed. The hood won't align. After the car was pai
  12. I'm looking into fuel pumps and wiring, also off the topic of electrical but also for the addition of the triples, what do you guys do with this pipe? Plug it or add a breather?
  13. Success! Tapped her in a bit tried the prybar and turn deal but didnt seem to work. Used a bunch of WD40 while vise grips were on the bolt and kept spinning it back and forth and pulling out at the same time.. finally she popped out. Loaded with rust. Almost looked like brown sugar.. totally dry meaning that Wd40 didn't reach that far back. Think the heat also really helped. The hole was completed packed with brown sugar rust. Made a little hook scraper with a coat hanger and was able to scratch and pull about 90% out. Then used compressed air to blow it out, then alittle brake cle
  14. I have been scared to push it back in because I think its away from the threads in the block and only stuck in the cover but may have to try that. I feel like it could break at any moment. I'm so close haha.. It may be the original water pump, says ASUGI or something like that on it. It wasn't leaking but figured since I have the motor out it might be a good idea to change it, what a brave and dumb soul I am for attempting this. I hear alot of broken bolt stories about this. Well just got home from work, I'm going to have another go at it.
  15. I have been scared to push it back in because I think its away from the threads in the block and only stuck in the cover but may have to try that. I feel like it could break at any moment. I'm so close haha.. It may be the original water pump, says ASUGI or something like that on it. It wasn't leaking but figured since I have the motor out it might be a good idea to change it, what a brave and dumb soul I am for attempting this. I hear alot of broken bolt stories about this. Well just got home from work, I'm going to have another go at it.
×
×
  • Create New...