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About BlackdogNY

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  • Birthday 03/09/1968

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  1. If you have a Optima Battery, 'Optima Trays' on ebay. I have the style that clamps on the lower lip of the battery, leaving the top open. Very nice quality. Just have to bolt it down in car...wherever you want. B&G
  2. Well it has been a few weeks....changed a few things and made some progress. Off topic, but some might be interested. Set-up again is a 363 dart, mild cam, cnc'd heads,82mm y2k turbonetics and a tremec magnum. Came with dual 3"tail pipes with Dynomax welded mufflers. Sound was not to my liking....removed mufflers, kept tail pipes. Sounded crazy loud when first started(in open garage). Actually not that bad on the road, even with windows down on highway. Has a great bumpy sound out the back at idle. This had zero effect on drivability, neighbors might not approve early morning drives. One thing that has made a decent difference is....as AkRev(and others have suggested) fatten up the part throttle tune. Much easier to drive, still shutters on decel a bit....will try one more adjustment to idle fuel curve to see if that helps. Having a real time A/F gauge is a must. Might be changing the aluminum flywheel to a billet steel piece if it still shuttering. By no means a DD car, but getting more tolerable. B&G
  3. Just finished with relay change and filter clean. A little worried after changing relays that voltage was the same as before....cleaned pre-filter(75 micron), which involved a tank draining, no real blockage and just a few pieces of 'dirt'No water in tank. Regular filter(25 micron) was slightly dirty, still not blocked. End result....pump now builds psi on prime, fired right up, keeps consistent psi and 'Happy Father's Day' she made it past the driveway and cruised around town/highway. Now I can actually do some work that is not repairing something. Muffler delete is up first. Thanks to all who offered help. B&G
  4. A mistake to even try what?? Your back-ass answer to a simple question is useless at best. I had questions to the function of fuel pump relays, sorry if that is not interesting enough for you. I have said it before...enjoy your posts, even your strange sense of 'humor' and finally your knowledge about Datsuns. What I don't enjoy or even need is BS. Look, don't look, could give 2 sh^ts...if you have something to add please do so in a non-puzzle like manner. If you even read what I said the problem was posted not only for myself, but for anybody else(with all the V8 power out there) with a high flow, big HP fuel system....no matter what brand used. Some people like to hear themselves talk, I guess you like to see yourself type. Rant over...relays/filter cleaning will begin tomorrow. B&G
  5. Well, she started again this afternoon. Rock solid 40psi, 13.4 volts at relays/pump. Got up to 180 degrees, about 10min. idle, high idle, revs below 2800. Relays are warm to touch, pump is cool, pre filter is ice cold. Still as confused as ever. Since I am along tonight, will wait before venturing to get past driveway. BTW, changed nothing. B&G
  6. In reverse....fuel cooler looks like one of those power steering coolers, about 1'Lx3"dia., alu. construction with ribs that run the length. Mounted to floor just about under PS seat. Same -10 line. Its blue. According to the original owner, he has never had fuel issues beside a relay(factory)replacement a few yrs. ago. He seems honestly surprised that I am having problems. He does not strike me as someone who sold a car with known issues. It is strange that the car ran so well on my way home, and for that matter around the guy's house(test drive) and it decides to crap out three days later 5 mins. after starting. It looks like the return line enters the tank above the outlet(to pump). Now I know that is bad to have 'hot' return gas mix with out going fuel. Just not sure what it looks like inside the tank. They might(and probable are) separated. Inlet to pre filter is the largest line I can see -12? Others seem to be -10. Pump really does not sound 'bad'. Is the cavitation problem like putting your hand over the end of a leaf blower...if you know what that sounds like. Engine is running, just no air is leaving...a higher pitch sound. I kinda remember reading that cavitation will make the pump run hot, draw higher amps and vicious cycle to pump failure. That being said, I have no evidence of things getting hot...wires/connections. Think the magnafuel system has been in the car for 3 yrs. Relays will be here Tues/Weds. that and a filter check/clean are next on my bucket list. Sorry no pictures, yet. Thanks, B&G
  7. Just got car, changed nothing, worked like a top for original owner. I changed the factory relays, will be changing Mangafuel one when they arrive. See previous posts for starting-dieing-pushing process. Got to get to work.... B&G
  8. Don't take this the wrong way, I asked questions to get answers and maybe help somebody else with similar issues. If Tony's answer was a simple 'yes' to my relay question....just say so. It would be soooooooooo much easier. I will be using the magnafuel relays because they had worked just fine for 3+ yrs. and they don't offer any options(probable for a reason). From what I remember reading, they want that voltage for their pump to work as advertised. It had something to do with low voltage causing the pump to draw higher amps. and possible damage. Don't quote me on that, my memory is not the greatest. I believe it is gravity fed from a internal sump in tank. Not positive. It is a external unit with a pre-filter and post filter. Has a fuel 'cooler' on return line. -10 or -12 lines. The tank is a stock looking exterior with custom baffles and sump designed specifically for high hp efi's with power adders. Not sure on the vent, it is vented. This is not a 'thrown together' fuel system. Previous owner had two other boosted power plants. They were changed for upgrades to car. If I had a heat issue in the tank in the elapsed time from start-up to pushing back to garage, there is something major wrong. Car was in closed garage, am temp was not above 65 and cruise lasted 5mins. If you have any interest, the Magnafuel web page is small, but I might have some info on there you might understand better than me. Thanks again. B&G
  9. Btw, the particular pre-filter, pump(750 protuner) and after filter is rated to handle well in excess of 1000hp. Not you little pump you see in a 100hp Honda. Ya, it might draw some power...... And the 10 sec. time was 'about 10 sec.' I was under the car holding the alligator clips on the pump and I had to get out from there to see the gauge. And, no the pump did not get hot when cranking...had my hand on it...felt like cold alu. Inlet filter is from Magnafuel, came with pump. Remember I drove this car home 90 miles 3 days before it died(the first time). No bogging or misfires that would indicate filter blockage. B&G
  10. I did not ignore anything, Tony really did not answer any of my questions. He might have, in his own Mr. Miyagi way?? As far as the voltage needed, don't blame me....That is what the MANUFACTUER REQUIRES....if you disagree I am not going to argue about it. Tech guy said having the 11.7 at pump was low, but should not prevent psi production until running conditions. The relays that are in the car are the ones that came with the fuel system, all the same stuff. Replacements are from Magnafuel as well. I am by no means a electrical person, but putting a higher than spec relay in seems the same as putting a higher amp fuse in your home breaker panel because it keeps tripping. Won't it let more volts than needed to pump(or your home's outlet) which will only lead to a visit from your local FD. If the fuel line was blocked, why would it produce 40-42 psi when jumped from battery? Also started right up, idled fine and just died. I guess something maybe floating around in filter and getting clogged and then without pressure it floats around again. Seems less likely that relay issue, but when my an wrenches arrive I will clean/check the filters. B&G
  11. Not undersized, (2)40/30A, which is manufacture's requirement. Yes, they are original, not that old and Tyco brand. No burning, heat, discoloring or corrosion. Ordered replacements(and 2 spares from Summit last nite). I said I 'thought' relays worked or didn't...hence the question(s) posted. Always appreciate responses, even one that is not that useful.....should I duck for incoming 'sparkplug'. B&G
  12. Fuel pump is a Magnafuel 750 ProTuner(electric), dual relays, pre-filter, post filter. Car started right up, puttered down driveway, turn on street....dies in middle of street. Cranks, pump makes pumping sounds...0 psi at gauge and no start, tow back to house(not fun) Change two relays in engine compartment because of a strange reading....pump primes with key, just no psi. 12.5-12.36v at battery, 11.7 at rear relays and pump. Call Magnafuel and he had a few things to check and mentioned if rear relays(3-4 yrs old) are failing that they might cause the issue. Now the funny part. When out and actually tried to start the car(did not bother since there was no psi showing(after eng. compartment relay change)....fired right up ran it for a bit, shut-off and it restarted(Thurs.) Went out Sun. am for a cruise, starts right up, puttered down drive, make turn, F-in died in same spot. Won't restart again(no psi)...push back to garage. Still get 11.7v at rear relays, 11.7 at pump, but if you crank eng. it drops to 10.36(at pump). Tech line was very specific about needing 12.5-14 at pump for proper operation. If you jump from battery to pump(12.4v), you get 40-42 psi at gauge in less than 10 sec. Local parts store ordered the wrong relays for pump, so changing that will have to wait till next week. I was always under the impression that relays worked or don't, is it possible that these are still working(they click with key), just not letting enough power to run pump properly? All heavy gauge wire, soldered, nothing corroded or loose. Very frustrating. B&G
  13. Have no stars for HP, actually asked the guy to tune it down. Would rather have a lot less power and have a easy car to drive. It makes 780 rwhp now and has made 840,potential for 1000 with VP. On the highway she is a kitten. Car is completely done and the nicest original looking car I have ever seen. The take-off issue is my lack of time driving the car, the shuttering questions I have asked are in previous posts Not sure of the Tremec's first gear ratio, but it does not feel crazy tall and the rear is 3.55's. The reasons for buying a car like this is to spend about 1/3 the cost to build a similar car. B&G
  14. I received a reply from Holly tech line....big 'no' on any type of progressive throttle linkage for a single blade TB. They suggested modifying the pedal ratio or extending the point of attachment on the TB itself, both thing I had thought of...just hoping for a bolt-in kit. This seems like a good idea as far as making the car easier to get moving from a stand still, don't see a huge help in drivability. Still would appreciate any feed back from anybody with their drivability experiences. I really don't see where ahigh powered car would act any different than a 'normal' car would in a zero throttle/coasting situation. Make fun of me all you want, just need a answer...this car is way to nice to pass-up. B&G
  15. Just sent a message to Holly about a progressive linkage kit, will see what they say. Could not find anything searching web besides custom made stuff. It has a 80mm Holly TB you will find on many Ford SBs. It sounds like a great idea. As far as the lean/richness of the engine, not sure how that will effect a decelerating car. The car does have a real time data log display as well as a A/F meter. Most of my driving was in the 1-2% TPS and had 13-15 to 1 A/F reading(0 boost). Slightly lean, but whenever you gave any throttle to produce boost, instantly went to 10-12 to 1. Crusing highway, 65 mph, 5th gear, 2200rpm, 1 TPS, 13-15 to 1...mainly in the 13 to 14 range. Honestly did not notice what it said on a pure coasting situation. If anybody has a combo that is even slightly similar to this....if you are in any gear at 3000rpm and let of the throttle, will your car smoothly decelerate to basically a idle situation without and shuttering/bucking? Other situation would be once you get the going in first gear will the car putter along on it own(torque) without issue? My dump truck with a manual and a V10 could be driven at less than a crawl in first gear, just its own torque. Granted it had a rather short 1st gear...but the Tremec's 1st is not a crazy high ratio(don't know specifically what it is). Just going by how it feels. Thanks again, B&G
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