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BlackdogNY

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Everything posted by BlackdogNY

  1. If you have a Optima Battery, 'Optima Trays' on ebay. I have the style that clamps on the lower lip of the battery, leaving the top open. Very nice quality. Just have to bolt it down in car...wherever you want. B&G
  2. Well it has been a few weeks....changed a few things and made some progress. Off topic, but some might be interested. Set-up again is a 363 dart, mild cam, cnc'd heads,82mm y2k turbonetics and a tremec magnum. Came with dual 3"tail pipes with Dynomax welded mufflers. Sound was not to my liking....removed mufflers, kept tail pipes. Sounded crazy loud when first started(in open garage). Actually not that bad on the road, even with windows down on highway. Has a great bumpy sound out the back at idle. This had zero effect on drivability, neighbors might not approve early morning drives. One thing that has made a decent difference is....as AkRev(and others have suggested) fatten up the part throttle tune. Much easier to drive, still shutters on decel a bit....will try one more adjustment to idle fuel curve to see if that helps. Having a real time A/F gauge is a must. Might be changing the aluminum flywheel to a billet steel piece if it still shuttering. By no means a DD car, but getting more tolerable. B&G
  3. Just finished with relay change and filter clean. A little worried after changing relays that voltage was the same as before....cleaned pre-filter(75 micron), which involved a tank draining, no real blockage and just a few pieces of 'dirt'No water in tank. Regular filter(25 micron) was slightly dirty, still not blocked. End result....pump now builds psi on prime, fired right up, keeps consistent psi and 'Happy Father's Day' she made it past the driveway and cruised around town/highway. Now I can actually do some work that is not repairing something. Muffler delete is up first. Thanks to all who offered help. B&G
  4. A mistake to even try what?? Your back-ass answer to a simple question is useless at best. I had questions to the function of fuel pump relays, sorry if that is not interesting enough for you. I have said it before...enjoy your posts, even your strange sense of 'humor' and finally your knowledge about Datsuns. What I don't enjoy or even need is BS. Look, don't look, could give 2 sh^ts...if you have something to add please do so in a non-puzzle like manner. If you even read what I said the problem was posted not only for myself, but for anybody else(with all the V8 power out there) with a high flow, big HP fuel system....no matter what brand used. Some people like to hear themselves talk, I guess you like to see yourself type. Rant over...relays/filter cleaning will begin tomorrow. B&G
  5. Well, she started again this afternoon. Rock solid 40psi, 13.4 volts at relays/pump. Got up to 180 degrees, about 10min. idle, high idle, revs below 2800. Relays are warm to touch, pump is cool, pre filter is ice cold. Still as confused as ever. Since I am along tonight, will wait before venturing to get past driveway. BTW, changed nothing. B&G
  6. In reverse....fuel cooler looks like one of those power steering coolers, about 1'Lx3"dia., alu. construction with ribs that run the length. Mounted to floor just about under PS seat. Same -10 line. Its blue. According to the original owner, he has never had fuel issues beside a relay(factory)replacement a few yrs. ago. He seems honestly surprised that I am having problems. He does not strike me as someone who sold a car with known issues. It is strange that the car ran so well on my way home, and for that matter around the guy's house(test drive) and it decides to crap out three days later 5 mins. after starting. It looks like the return line enters the tank above the outlet(to pump). Now I know that is bad to have 'hot' return gas mix with out going fuel. Just not sure what it looks like inside the tank. They might(and probable are) separated. Inlet to pre filter is the largest line I can see -12? Others seem to be -10. Pump really does not sound 'bad'. Is the cavitation problem like putting your hand over the end of a leaf blower...if you know what that sounds like. Engine is running, just no air is leaving...a higher pitch sound. I kinda remember reading that cavitation will make the pump run hot, draw higher amps and vicious cycle to pump failure. That being said, I have no evidence of things getting hot...wires/connections. Think the magnafuel system has been in the car for 3 yrs. Relays will be here Tues/Weds. that and a filter check/clean are next on my bucket list. Sorry no pictures, yet. Thanks, B&G
  7. Just got car, changed nothing, worked like a top for original owner. I changed the factory relays, will be changing Mangafuel one when they arrive. See previous posts for starting-dieing-pushing process. Got to get to work.... B&G
  8. Don't take this the wrong way, I asked questions to get answers and maybe help somebody else with similar issues. If Tony's answer was a simple 'yes' to my relay question....just say so. It would be soooooooooo much easier. I will be using the magnafuel relays because they had worked just fine for 3+ yrs. and they don't offer any options(probable for a reason). From what I remember reading, they want that voltage for their pump to work as advertised. It had something to do with low voltage causing the pump to draw higher amps. and possible damage. Don't quote me on that, my memory is not the greatest. I believe it is gravity fed from a internal sump in tank. Not positive. It is a external unit with a pre-filter and post filter. Has a fuel 'cooler' on return line. -10 or -12 lines. The tank is a stock looking exterior with custom baffles and sump designed specifically for high hp efi's with power adders. Not sure on the vent, it is vented. This is not a 'thrown together' fuel system. Previous owner had two other boosted power plants. They were changed for upgrades to car. If I had a heat issue in the tank in the elapsed time from start-up to pushing back to garage, there is something major wrong. Car was in closed garage, am temp was not above 65 and cruise lasted 5mins. If you have any interest, the Magnafuel web page is small, but I might have some info on there you might understand better than me. Thanks again. B&G
  9. Btw, the particular pre-filter, pump(750 protuner) and after filter is rated to handle well in excess of 1000hp. Not you little pump you see in a 100hp Honda. Ya, it might draw some power...... And the 10 sec. time was 'about 10 sec.' I was under the car holding the alligator clips on the pump and I had to get out from there to see the gauge. And, no the pump did not get hot when cranking...had my hand on it...felt like cold alu. Inlet filter is from Magnafuel, came with pump. Remember I drove this car home 90 miles 3 days before it died(the first time). No bogging or misfires that would indicate filter blockage. B&G
  10. I did not ignore anything, Tony really did not answer any of my questions. He might have, in his own Mr. Miyagi way?? As far as the voltage needed, don't blame me....That is what the MANUFACTUER REQUIRES....if you disagree I am not going to argue about it. Tech guy said having the 11.7 at pump was low, but should not prevent psi production until running conditions. The relays that are in the car are the ones that came with the fuel system, all the same stuff. Replacements are from Magnafuel as well. I am by no means a electrical person, but putting a higher than spec relay in seems the same as putting a higher amp fuse in your home breaker panel because it keeps tripping. Won't it let more volts than needed to pump(or your home's outlet) which will only lead to a visit from your local FD. If the fuel line was blocked, why would it produce 40-42 psi when jumped from battery? Also started right up, idled fine and just died. I guess something maybe floating around in filter and getting clogged and then without pressure it floats around again. Seems less likely that relay issue, but when my an wrenches arrive I will clean/check the filters. B&G
  11. Not undersized, (2)40/30A, which is manufacture's requirement. Yes, they are original, not that old and Tyco brand. No burning, heat, discoloring or corrosion. Ordered replacements(and 2 spares from Summit last nite). I said I 'thought' relays worked or didn't...hence the question(s) posted. Always appreciate responses, even one that is not that useful.....should I duck for incoming 'sparkplug'. B&G
  12. Fuel pump is a Magnafuel 750 ProTuner(electric), dual relays, pre-filter, post filter. Car started right up, puttered down driveway, turn on street....dies in middle of street. Cranks, pump makes pumping sounds...0 psi at gauge and no start, tow back to house(not fun) Change two relays in engine compartment because of a strange reading....pump primes with key, just no psi. 12.5-12.36v at battery, 11.7 at rear relays and pump. Call Magnafuel and he had a few things to check and mentioned if rear relays(3-4 yrs old) are failing that they might cause the issue. Now the funny part. When out and actually tried to start the car(did not bother since there was no psi showing(after eng. compartment relay change)....fired right up ran it for a bit, shut-off and it restarted(Thurs.) Went out Sun. am for a cruise, starts right up, puttered down drive, make turn, F-in died in same spot. Won't restart again(no psi)...push back to garage. Still get 11.7v at rear relays, 11.7 at pump, but if you crank eng. it drops to 10.36(at pump). Tech line was very specific about needing 12.5-14 at pump for proper operation. If you jump from battery to pump(12.4v), you get 40-42 psi at gauge in less than 10 sec. Local parts store ordered the wrong relays for pump, so changing that will have to wait till next week. I was always under the impression that relays worked or don't, is it possible that these are still working(they click with key), just not letting enough power to run pump properly? All heavy gauge wire, soldered, nothing corroded or loose. Very frustrating. B&G
  13. Have no stars for HP, actually asked the guy to tune it down. Would rather have a lot less power and have a easy car to drive. It makes 780 rwhp now and has made 840,potential for 1000 with VP. On the highway she is a kitten. Car is completely done and the nicest original looking car I have ever seen. The take-off issue is my lack of time driving the car, the shuttering questions I have asked are in previous posts Not sure of the Tremec's first gear ratio, but it does not feel crazy tall and the rear is 3.55's. The reasons for buying a car like this is to spend about 1/3 the cost to build a similar car. B&G
  14. I received a reply from Holly tech line....big 'no' on any type of progressive throttle linkage for a single blade TB. They suggested modifying the pedal ratio or extending the point of attachment on the TB itself, both thing I had thought of...just hoping for a bolt-in kit. This seems like a good idea as far as making the car easier to get moving from a stand still, don't see a huge help in drivability. Still would appreciate any feed back from anybody with their drivability experiences. I really don't see where ahigh powered car would act any different than a 'normal' car would in a zero throttle/coasting situation. Make fun of me all you want, just need a answer...this car is way to nice to pass-up. B&G
  15. Just sent a message to Holly about a progressive linkage kit, will see what they say. Could not find anything searching web besides custom made stuff. It has a 80mm Holly TB you will find on many Ford SBs. It sounds like a great idea. As far as the lean/richness of the engine, not sure how that will effect a decelerating car. The car does have a real time data log display as well as a A/F meter. Most of my driving was in the 1-2% TPS and had 13-15 to 1 A/F reading(0 boost). Slightly lean, but whenever you gave any throttle to produce boost, instantly went to 10-12 to 1. Crusing highway, 65 mph, 5th gear, 2200rpm, 1 TPS, 13-15 to 1...mainly in the 13 to 14 range. Honestly did not notice what it said on a pure coasting situation. If anybody has a combo that is even slightly similar to this....if you are in any gear at 3000rpm and let of the throttle, will your car smoothly decelerate to basically a idle situation without and shuttering/bucking? Other situation would be once you get the going in first gear will the car putter along on it own(torque) without issue? My dump truck with a manual and a V10 could be driven at less than a crawl in first gear, just its own torque. Granted it had a rather short 1st gear...but the Tremec's 1st is not a crazy high ratio(don't know specifically what it is). Just going by how it feels. Thanks again, B&G
  16. I don't know it from A to B, did not build it. Original owner 55000 mile car. Various engine combos, this 'final' drivetrain is end result of years of his work. It has about 6000 miles on. Not a poor swap, nothing is loose/broken. Car is spotless, original paint, interior all in 9/10 condition. I don't think is scaming me, he had plenty of opportunities to off load the car to make a quick buck. He actually is waiting for the right buyer for his baby. Was not sure about the placement of the topic, put it here because of the parts involved. Thought it would be more likely a V8 swap thing than with a old/stock combo. He did say it will be smoother with driving experience, and the shuttering was mainly the slop in the driveline when not under load. I agree with the smooth part on start-off/engagement of a gear. not the decelerating to a stop. Like I said, never driven a car like this and maybe with this hp and a 6 speed it won't drive like a 'normal' car. But if a different clutch/flywheel combo, a steel drive shaft can be installed, or ????, this car is crazy nice. If something was loose/broken it would get worse not better with power application/rpm's. B&G
  17. Test drove a car today and had a few issues/questions that I could use help with. Drive train is: Dart 363, turbonetics 82mm ball bearing, Trickflow heads...780@wheel 12psi. 6 speed magnum, Spec(?) single disc clutch, alu. drive shaft, 8.8 with 3.55's L/S. The engine starts/runs/pulls smooth and has tonsssss of torque at low rpms. Here is my problem(s): First, this is a 'street car', no cage, full interior, frame connectors, damn thing looks stock...besides being lowered and shiny wheels. Never driven a car this powerful before so don't go blaming my driving 100%. Starting off in 1st, it is a little testy...that I think is me not being use to the car. Once you get going, like foot off clutch, you have to go or slip the clutch to drive slow...parking lot/gas station/ my long driveway. It will shutter badly, not engine sputter, drive line 'slop/shuttering'. Driving in traffic would be a nightmare. Once you get going it will shutter going down the road, worst in 1-4 than cruising on highway, but it is still noticeable. By shuttering I mean if you are going 30-40(2-3000rpm) around town and are just barely touching the gas to stay at your speed, it was not happy unless you gave it some gas to go. It took nothing to get it to go, but we were trying to stay with traffic. If you let of the gas, for a lite/stop sign and try to decel. in gear, by 2300 rpm it would shutter until you downshift/coast to a stop. Don't get me wrong, I did not think I would be like driving a Focus, but was not happy as to how on/off it was. It was great on a few on ramps merging with traffic, pulled like a F-ing train, even at partial throttle(low rpm, less than 3500). 5th gear 2000-2300 65mph, give it a little gas(very little) she goes zero hesitation. Because of this, it seems to be a driveline issue. I really want/need to have a car that is more everyday friendly and hope this is something that if fixable. If this was a car you just occasionally drove to the track(whatever racing you choose)it would still be a pita. Any ideas/experiences/thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks, B&G
  18. With your luck so far I would not start down a uncharted road. If you want to go dry sump, modify the engine bay to fit(if it really needs it). Did Robbie have one on his 240? He would be my first call/email. Plenty of manufacturers that make kits, someone has put one in a Z...or will help package it for you. Look on Yellow Bullet forums, lots of good stuff on dry sump suppliers. Some really trick parts out there. It might be expensive, but if it solves your issues, money well spent. Good luck....again. B&G
  19. I have been following your build since finding this site. Is this a new engine after the one with a RIPS long block?? After reading a build like this it is really pushing me towards a LS turbo instead of a RB. Would not have the patients to rebuild. If you had somebody go thru this engine, are they going to stand behind their work and fix it? Love your car and the RB....hope you can figure out what is going on. B&G
  20. I read this(and other) build threads to see what is being done and maybe get some inspiration. I am curious about something....are you building to a specific set of rules? I was under the impression that it was a track-day 'toy'. You seem to have the means/ability/motivation to see how fast a 40 yr. old brick will move. If rules are not a issue, getting past bad aerodynamics should be do-able, damn throw a bunch of HP at it and see what happens. That's what turbos are for. 1000HP LS motors are 'easy', you have big enough tires, just upgrade the rear when it breaks. If you are constrained by some rulebook, ignore the above question. It would be nice to see a car like yours with big HP.....to see how fast a sorted Z can be on track. One last thing, have you every run Lime Rock, and what was your best time? I have never run any of the tracks you usually mention, just wanted a reference point to where your car stands. Good luck. B&G
  21. Just been reading your build and want to know if you moved the engine closer to the firewall? Looking for some extra room up front. If you could post a picture from above the completed, mocked-up engine bay it would be much appreciated. One thing I did notice...on your transmission cross member...the pass. side frame tabs looks very thin. You might consider plating it top/bottom. Hard to tell from the pic. if there are plates on top. Hard launch/sticky tires might just rip those tabs right off. Good luck, warmer weather is even here in the northeast. B&G
  22. 80 hrs to do a firewall??? I hope that was a miss print. Your fab. guy must love you. Part of the reason you pay a premium for that type of work is the expensive equipment needed and a shops ability to get the work done in a timely manner. You should expect he/she has done it enough that they can knock it out quickly so both parties are happy with the price. Remove that 0 from the 80 and that would seem more reasonable. I just spoke to a shop about a full chassis build, they mainly do 10.5 drag car with full funnycar cages. His rough estimate was in the 35K range. That was including probable 25K+ in parts. And yes there will be a custom firewall.... Look on 'Yellow Bullet' forum, mainly dragracing related, but lots of info about shops and reviews of their work. B&G
  23. In my searching for a bellhousing for a L28 to T56, came across this from Quick Time. Their catalog was not very specific so I sent them a message....and got a reply within 1hr....today. Their response: "The RM-7010 will work with the Nissan RB20, RB25 and RB26 to a T5 Mustang, TKO500/600 - Ford or a TR3550 transmission. You would need a custom bellhousing for your engine and transmission combination. For custom a bellhousing, they will take a minimum for 90 days for production and will run about $1100 - $1200. Please let us know if you need additional help." I believe it is certified as a shatter shield and steel, $675-695.
  24. Another chassis shop in the restomod/protouring/expensive suspension class. Take a look, expensive, lots of options. http//roadstershop.com Will be visiting a shop this week to finally see if I can get my old girl moving.
  25. Well, Mr. Wizard's remark gave me an idea....looked on the factory 5 site and they sell a IRS at 54" width. You need to buy the 8.8, spindles and brakes. Some assembly required, but bolt on stuff. I do not have access to my car at the moment and have a had a hard time finding the brake to brake measurement('78) 54" seems close. Shocks are a Koni c/o's. Looks decent, not as flashy as AM. I did investigate the cost of the Dana 60 in the AM kit....4 grand+. I will ask if they will offer it with a 8.8 or empty. https://www.factoryfive.com Pin Drive IRS: $2,399.00 SKU: #15300 Shipping: $230.00 (Fixed shipping cost) Product Description Our independent rear suspension is the for the person who needs the absolute top of the line performance and ride from his Factory Five car. The kit comes with the IRS cage, shocks, upper and lower control arms, shorter half shafts, and all hardware. If ordered with a kit we weld in all the mounts so it is ready to assemble and shipping is free, but many people have retrofitted this kit into their solid axle cars. It will work on all Mark I, II, and III cars. The center section, CV joints, hubs, brakes, and spindles are all from the extremely common late 80's to mid 90's Ford products listed below. This IRS is pin drive (54.25") width for authentic knock-off wheels that we sell.. Applications -Factory Five Roadster, Coupe, Spyder, Challenge Racer. Donor Vehicles 1989-1997 Thunderbird Super Coupe (All Posi-traction) 1992-1997 Thunderbird V-8 models with rear disc brakes (some posi-traction) 1992-1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (All aluminum carrier, most non-posi-traction) 1989-1992 Mercury Cougar XR-7, supercharged V-6 (All posi-traction) 1993-1997 Mercury Cougar V-8 with rear disc brakes (some posi-traction), after 94 all Cougars were called XR-7’s Non donor parts needed Mustang Quad shocks –Aftermarket KYB shock usually interfere with tires. ½†Lug nuts (T-bird lugs are metric) Note: Factory Five Racing does NOT approve the use of aftermarket IRS quick alignment adjusters. Click here to download the installation instructions as a PDF
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