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BlackdogNY

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Everything posted by BlackdogNY

  1. If you have a Optima Battery, 'Optima Trays' on ebay. I have the style that clamps on the lower lip of the battery, leaving the top open. Very nice quality. Just have to bolt it down in car...wherever you want. B&G
  2. Well it has been a few weeks....changed a few things and made some progress. Off topic, but some might be interested. Set-up again is a 363 dart, mild cam, cnc'd heads,82mm y2k turbonetics and a tremec magnum. Came with dual 3"tail pipes with Dynomax welded mufflers. Sound was not to my liking....removed mufflers, kept tail pipes. Sounded crazy loud when first started(in open garage). Actually not that bad on the road, even with windows down on highway. Has a great bumpy sound out the back at idle. This had zero effect on drivability, neighbors might not approve early
  3. Just finished with relay change and filter clean. A little worried after changing relays that voltage was the same as before....cleaned pre-filter(75 micron), which involved a tank draining, no real blockage and just a few pieces of 'dirt'No water in tank. Regular filter(25 micron) was slightly dirty, still not blocked. End result....pump now builds psi on prime, fired right up, keeps consistent psi and 'Happy Father's Day' she made it past the driveway and cruised around town/highway. Now I can actually do some work that is not repairing something. Muffler delete is up fir
  4. A mistake to even try what?? Your back-ass answer to a simple question is useless at best. I had questions to the function of fuel pump relays, sorry if that is not interesting enough for you. I have said it before...enjoy your posts, even your strange sense of 'humor' and finally your knowledge about Datsuns. What I don't enjoy or even need is BS. Look, don't look, could give 2 sh^ts...if you have something to add please do so in a non-puzzle like manner. If you even read what I said the problem was posted not only for myself, but for anybody else(with all the V8
  5. Well, she started again this afternoon. Rock solid 40psi, 13.4 volts at relays/pump. Got up to 180 degrees, about 10min. idle, high idle, revs below 2800. Relays are warm to touch, pump is cool, pre filter is ice cold. Still as confused as ever. Since I am along tonight, will wait before venturing to get past driveway. BTW, changed nothing. B&G
  6. In reverse....fuel cooler looks like one of those power steering coolers, about 1'Lx3"dia., alu. construction with ribs that run the length. Mounted to floor just about under PS seat. Same -10 line. Its blue. According to the original owner, he has never had fuel issues beside a relay(factory)replacement a few yrs. ago. He seems honestly surprised that I am having problems. He does not strike me as someone who sold a car with known issues. It is strange that the car ran so well on my way home, and for that matter around the guy's house(test drive) and it decides to crap out
  7. Just got car, changed nothing, worked like a top for original owner. I changed the factory relays, will be changing Mangafuel one when they arrive. See previous posts for starting-dieing-pushing process. Got to get to work.... B&G
  8. Don't take this the wrong way, I asked questions to get answers and maybe help somebody else with similar issues. If Tony's answer was a simple 'yes' to my relay question....just say so. It would be soooooooooo much easier. I will be using the magnafuel relays because they had worked just fine for 3+ yrs. and they don't offer any options(probable for a reason). From what I remember reading, they want that voltage for their pump to work as advertised. It had something to do with low voltage causing the pump to draw higher amps. and possible damage. Don't quote me on tha
  9. Btw, the particular pre-filter, pump(750 protuner) and after filter is rated to handle well in excess of 1000hp. Not you little pump you see in a 100hp Honda. Ya, it might draw some power...... And the 10 sec. time was 'about 10 sec.' I was under the car holding the alligator clips on the pump and I had to get out from there to see the gauge. And, no the pump did not get hot when cranking...had my hand on it...felt like cold alu. Inlet filter is from Magnafuel, came with pump. Remember I drove this car home 90 miles 3 days before it died(the first time). No boggin
  10. I did not ignore anything, Tony really did not answer any of my questions. He might have, in his own Mr. Miyagi way?? As far as the voltage needed, don't blame me....That is what the MANUFACTUER REQUIRES....if you disagree I am not going to argue about it. Tech guy said having the 11.7 at pump was low, but should not prevent psi production until running conditions. The relays that are in the car are the ones that came with the fuel system, all the same stuff. Replacements are from Magnafuel as well. I am by no means a electrical person, but putting a higher than spec relay
  11. Not undersized, (2)40/30A, which is manufacture's requirement. Yes, they are original, not that old and Tyco brand. No burning, heat, discoloring or corrosion. Ordered replacements(and 2 spares from Summit last nite). I said I 'thought' relays worked or didn't...hence the question(s) posted. Always appreciate responses, even one that is not that useful.....should I duck for incoming 'sparkplug'. B&G
  12. Fuel pump is a Magnafuel 750 ProTuner(electric), dual relays, pre-filter, post filter. Car started right up, puttered down driveway, turn on street....dies in middle of street. Cranks, pump makes pumping sounds...0 psi at gauge and no start, tow back to house(not fun) Change two relays in engine compartment because of a strange reading....pump primes with key, just no psi. 12.5-12.36v at battery, 11.7 at rear relays and pump. Call Magnafuel and he had a few things to check and mentioned if rear relays(3-4 yrs old) are failing that they might cause the issue. Now t
  13. Have no stars for HP, actually asked the guy to tune it down. Would rather have a lot less power and have a easy car to drive. It makes 780 rwhp now and has made 840,potential for 1000 with VP. On the highway she is a kitten. Car is completely done and the nicest original looking car I have ever seen. The take-off issue is my lack of time driving the car, the shuttering questions I have asked are in previous posts Not sure of the Tremec's first gear ratio, but it does not feel crazy tall and the rear is 3.55's. The reasons for buying a car like this is to spend about 1/3 th
  14. I received a reply from Holly tech line....big 'no' on any type of progressive throttle linkage for a single blade TB. They suggested modifying the pedal ratio or extending the point of attachment on the TB itself, both thing I had thought of...just hoping for a bolt-in kit. This seems like a good idea as far as making the car easier to get moving from a stand still, don't see a huge help in drivability. Still would appreciate any feed back from anybody with their drivability experiences. I really don't see where ahigh powered car would act any different than a 'normal' car woul
  15. Just sent a message to Holly about a progressive linkage kit, will see what they say. Could not find anything searching web besides custom made stuff. It has a 80mm Holly TB you will find on many Ford SBs. It sounds like a great idea. As far as the lean/richness of the engine, not sure how that will effect a decelerating car. The car does have a real time data log display as well as a A/F meter. Most of my driving was in the 1-2% TPS and had 13-15 to 1 A/F reading(0 boost). Slightly lean, but whenever you gave any throttle to produce boost, instantly went to 10-12 to 1.
  16. I don't know it from A to B, did not build it. Original owner 55000 mile car. Various engine combos, this 'final' drivetrain is end result of years of his work. It has about 6000 miles on. Not a poor swap, nothing is loose/broken. Car is spotless, original paint, interior all in 9/10 condition. I don't think is scaming me, he had plenty of opportunities to off load the car to make a quick buck. He actually is waiting for the right buyer for his baby. Was not sure about the placement of the topic, put it here because of the parts involved. Thought it would be more likel
  17. Test drove a car today and had a few issues/questions that I could use help with. Drive train is: Dart 363, turbonetics 82mm ball bearing, Trickflow heads...780@wheel 12psi. 6 speed magnum, Spec(?) single disc clutch, alu. drive shaft, 8.8 with 3.55's L/S. The engine starts/runs/pulls smooth and has tonsssss of torque at low rpms. Here is my problem(s): First, this is a 'street car', no cage, full interior, frame connectors, damn thing looks stock...besides being lowered and shiny wheels. Never driven a car this powerful before so don't go blaming my
  18. With your luck so far I would not start down a uncharted road. If you want to go dry sump, modify the engine bay to fit(if it really needs it). Did Robbie have one on his 240? He would be my first call/email. Plenty of manufacturers that make kits, someone has put one in a Z...or will help package it for you. Look on Yellow Bullet forums, lots of good stuff on dry sump suppliers. Some really trick parts out there. It might be expensive, but if it solves your issues, money well spent. Good luck....again. B&G
  19. I have been following your build since finding this site. Is this a new engine after the one with a RIPS long block?? After reading a build like this it is really pushing me towards a LS turbo instead of a RB. Would not have the patients to rebuild. If you had somebody go thru this engine, are they going to stand behind their work and fix it? Love your car and the RB....hope you can figure out what is going on. B&G
  20. I read this(and other) build threads to see what is being done and maybe get some inspiration. I am curious about something....are you building to a specific set of rules? I was under the impression that it was a track-day 'toy'. You seem to have the means/ability/motivation to see how fast a 40 yr. old brick will move. If rules are not a issue, getting past bad aerodynamics should be do-able, damn throw a bunch of HP at it and see what happens. That's what turbos are for. 1000HP LS motors are 'easy', you have big enough tires, just upgrade the rear when it breaks. If you a
  21. Just been reading your build and want to know if you moved the engine closer to the firewall? Looking for some extra room up front. If you could post a picture from above the completed, mocked-up engine bay it would be much appreciated. One thing I did notice...on your transmission cross member...the pass. side frame tabs looks very thin. You might consider plating it top/bottom. Hard to tell from the pic. if there are plates on top. Hard launch/sticky tires might just rip those tabs right off. Good luck, warmer weather is even here in the northeast. B&am
  22. 80 hrs to do a firewall??? I hope that was a miss print. Your fab. guy must love you. Part of the reason you pay a premium for that type of work is the expensive equipment needed and a shops ability to get the work done in a timely manner. You should expect he/she has done it enough that they can knock it out quickly so both parties are happy with the price. Remove that 0 from the 80 and that would seem more reasonable. I just spoke to a shop about a full chassis build, they mainly do 10.5 drag car with full funnycar cages. His rough estimate was in the 35K range. That was inclu
  23. In my searching for a bellhousing for a L28 to T56, came across this from Quick Time. Their catalog was not very specific so I sent them a message....and got a reply within 1hr....today. Their response: "The RM-7010 will work with the Nissan RB20, RB25 and RB26 to a T5 Mustang, TKO500/600 - Ford or a TR3550 transmission. You would need a custom bellhousing for your engine and transmission combination. For custom a bellhousing, they will take a minimum for 90 days for production and will run about $1100 - $1200. Please let us know if you need additional help."
  24. Another chassis shop in the restomod/protouring/expensive suspension class. Take a look, expensive, lots of options. http//roadstershop.com Will be visiting a shop this week to finally see if I can get my old girl moving.
  25. Well, Mr. Wizard's remark gave me an idea....looked on the factory 5 site and they sell a IRS at 54" width. You need to buy the 8.8, spindles and brakes. Some assembly required, but bolt on stuff. I do not have access to my car at the moment and have a had a hard time finding the brake to brake measurement('78) 54" seems close. Shocks are a Koni c/o's. Looks decent, not as flashy as AM. I did investigate the cost of the Dana 60 in the AM kit....4 grand+. I will ask if they will offer it with a 8.8 or empty. https://www.factoryfive.com Pin Drive IRS: $2,399
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