sickboy
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Posts posted by sickboy
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One bonus, you can sometimes find smoking deals on the triple disc version since the nascar guys use them as well.
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Jon,
I have been running a 7.25" Tilton twin disc (sintered metal) for three years and found it to be totally trouble free and actually very driveable (my car still has a license plate). The engagement point is precise but just takes a little getting used to. It's the only clutch I've ever had in the z that has not failed in some way. Mine's mounted on a Tilton flywheel but the flexplate option is better for a track car I believe.
One bonus, you can sometimes find smoking deals on the triple disc version since the nascar guys use them as well.
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Great idea on the front adjusters, I have the same AZC setup. No fun disassembling front struts at the track. Beautiful job on the car!
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Sign me up for one in CF.
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Just flipped through the entire thread. Very, very nice, Great job!
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very nice
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Impressive, super fast AND handles well.
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since I put my Aluminum rad in my Z, my t-stat was higher then the Rad opening. I took a funnel and plug, I drilled a hole in the rubber plug and epoxy the Funnel in it. I stuck the funnel in the Rad opening and just made sure the water level in the funnel was higher then the T-stat. Worked like a charm bleeding the system of all air. Make sure you turn your heater on so you fill your heater core.
I use a spill free funnel:
Same idea, easy to use, works great.
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An attempt at the original blue (missed it by a little).
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+1 more, no distributor at 8k.
Start reading here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113165
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Here's a simple straight forward article on BOVs: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/stpg.php?page_id=bov
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Suede wheel for sure, control is excellent when wearing gloves and hand/forearm fatigue is lessened in my experience.
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I have two sets of Rota RBs, one set with DOT Rs and the other with Goodyear slicks. They have many track days and time attacks on them. I've dropped a wheel off the track pretty hard a few times too. I've also heard of the problems with these wheels so I check them often. Happy to report so far so good.
Absolutely beautiful car! Well done.
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I have a set (9mm). Paid $125 a few years ago, if that's not too much they are yours.
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What does EP stand for?
E Production (SCCA)
Nice numbers Jeff, I've seen your car in action many times, no doubt it's dialed in.
For comparison, my car dynoed 253 whp, 232 tq on a Mustang dyno.
Specs: 12:1 cr, 3.1 L, N42 with moderate work, Rebello "road race" cam (specs unknown), Mikuni 44s, 3" exhaust, crankfire.
So that puts me at 82 hp/liter and you at 96 hp/liter.
I've been told by several people that Mustang numbers are consistently lower than Dynojets. There is a Dynojet nearby, so I think the next step is to take a few pulls there and compare them.
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Post some pics of the new wheels mounted, they look great tucked in like they are now.
This was on the ASR site. End of the day, tires dead.
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Nitto NT01, treadwear 100, not too pricey. I've met a couple of people who run this tire for street/autox/track days, they love it.
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I ran it yesterday at Arroyo Seco Raceway. Very tight, twisty track. With the Goodyear slicks on the new wheels I had about 1/4" in the rear and 1/8" in the front (clearance from the strut). I sprayed a little paint on the areas where it would have rubbed so if it even barely touched it would be obvious. I brought spacers but never needed them, no issues.
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I've got about 5/16" in the rear. Fronts are about 1/8". I'll bring the 1/4" spacers with tomorrow but I'll do a few laps first to see if I get any contact in the front with an 1/8".
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Does anyone have any first hand experience with minimum clearances between slicks and strut? I'm running Goodyear 23x9 R15 slicks, also run Hoosier 23x9.5 R15s. Both tires are pretty stiff. Trying out some new wheels with a bit more positive offset.
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For some people it's just a "grass is always greener" thing. I know I have that problem sometimes. My 240 has a stroker with triple 44s that makes WELL over 300hp and almost 290 tq. It absolutely rips and runs flawlessly but sometimes the turbo bug creeps in and makes me reconsider everything (damn it's annoying). You're not crazy for considering a trade if that's what you really want. The hard part is deciding. My car spends most of it's time at the track or auto x where I believe my setup is better suited (my opinion only). If I began using the car for more street/trips and just ran an occasional track day then I would definitely build a stroker turbo.
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I agree with the comments above about the cummins diesel engines. They have proven to be one of the best every produced for light trucks and are certainly capable of towing your loaded trailer. However, if you guys are getting 17-18 mpg or as posted above by mark.deady, 24+ mpg when loaded, I wish you would share your secret to great fuel mileage. My 03 Dodge 3500 duley can deliver 18-20 mpg when driven very "gingerly" and not pulling a trailer. My best mileage when pulling a 24' inclosed, v-nose trailer and z car is 12 mpg on flat interstate highway at 70 mph. So......what's the secret?
Mayolives,
My truck is an '05 2500 4x4 crew cab. I built the intake and exhaust myself (because I'm cheap). The transmission has been built with a billet low stall converter and a trans-go kit. I also use a Smarty programmer. It has 3:73 gears and 285/70/17s. With no load the best I can get is 23 mpg. Loaded with trailer, Z car, junk, is 17-18 mpg all day long. I've duplicated these numbers over and over again. I've heard claims of higher numbers, especially with the older 12 valve engines. Mine is the last of the HO 5.9L engines. Economy of the new 6.7L is poor from what I've heard. PM me if you want specifics (happy to share).
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Worst one? I'll just go with most recent: Welding under the car with no gloves (like an idiot), giant blob of metal falls off and lands on my wedding ring. Nothing I can do but watch it cook my flesh and then the skin just melted off (would that be considered 3rd degree?). Surprisingly it healed up perfectly.
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My Dodge Cummins (4x4, quad cab) gets 17-18 mpg towing a 24' trailer with the Z on it. If I weren't such a lead foot it may even do a little better.
.JPG)
LS1 Clutch recommendations
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Yes a 7.25" Tilton cover can be built as a single, dual or triple disc. The cover is mounted on stands (perches?) and the discs are stacked with plates in between. More discs = longer perches = taller clutch assembly. Buy the disc(s) with the correct spline for your trans and choose the friction material. Tilton makes a couple different friction materials and I've been told that the Clutch Masters 7.25 discs work as well (unverified).
Sorry can't help on V8 flywheel/flexplate compatibility..