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HybridZ

sickboy

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Everything posted by sickboy

  1. car still for sale? the photobucket pics didnt come up. If you could please email to jbehuniak@yahoo.com

  2. Yes a 7.25" Tilton cover can be built as a single, dual or triple disc. The cover is mounted on stands (perches?) and the discs are stacked with plates in between. More discs = longer perches = taller clutch assembly. Buy the disc(s) with the correct spline for your trans and choose the friction material. Tilton makes a couple different friction materials and I've been told that the Clutch Masters 7.25 discs work as well (unverified). Sorry can't help on V8 flywheel/flexplate compatibility..
  3. Case in point: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TILTON-OT-II-CLUTCH-153-TOOTH-FLYWHEEL-NASCAR_W0QQitemZ390132409542QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRace_Car_Parts?hash=item5ad5b424c6
  4. Jon, I have been running a 7.25" Tilton twin disc (sintered metal) for three years and found it to be totally trouble free and actually very driveable (my car still has a license plate). The engagement point is precise but just takes a little getting used to. It's the only clutch I've ever had in the z that has not failed in some way. Mine's mounted on a Tilton flywheel but the flexplate option is better for a track car I believe. One bonus, you can sometimes find smoking deals on the triple disc version since the nascar guys use them as well.
  5. Great idea on the front adjusters, I have the same AZC setup. No fun disassembling front struts at the track. Beautiful job on the car!
  6. Just flipped through the entire thread. Very, very nice, Great job!
  7. An attempt at the original blue (missed it by a little).
  8. +1 more, no distributor at 8k. Start reading here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113165
  9. Here's a simple straight forward article on BOVs: http://www.siliconeintakes.com/stpg.php?page_id=bov
  10. Suede wheel for sure, control is excellent when wearing gloves and hand/forearm fatigue is lessened in my experience.
  11. I have two sets of Rota RBs, one set with DOT Rs and the other with Goodyear slicks. They have many track days and time attacks on them. I've dropped a wheel off the track pretty hard a few times too. I've also heard of the problems with these wheels so I check them often. Happy to report so far so good. Absolutely beautiful car! Well done.
  12. I have a set (9mm). Paid $125 a few years ago, if that's not too much they are yours.
  13. E Production (SCCA) Nice numbers Jeff, I've seen your car in action many times, no doubt it's dialed in. For comparison, my car dynoed 253 whp, 232 tq on a Mustang dyno. Specs: 12:1 cr, 3.1 L, N42 with moderate work, Rebello "road race" cam (specs unknown), Mikuni 44s, 3" exhaust, crankfire. So that puts me at 82 hp/liter and you at 96 hp/liter. I've been told by several people that Mustang numbers are consistently lower than Dynojets. There is a Dynojet nearby, so I think the next step is to take a few pulls there and compare them.
  14. Nitto NT01, treadwear 100, not too pricey. I've met a couple of people who run this tire for street/autox/track days, they love it.
  15. I ran it yesterday at Arroyo Seco Raceway. Very tight, twisty track. With the Goodyear slicks on the new wheels I had about 1/4" in the rear and 1/8" in the front (clearance from the strut). I sprayed a little paint on the areas where it would have rubbed so if it even barely touched it would be obvious. I brought spacers but never needed them, no issues.
  16. I've got about 5/16" in the rear. Fronts are about 1/8". I'll bring the 1/4" spacers with tomorrow but I'll do a few laps first to see if I get any contact in the front with an 1/8".
  17. Does anyone have any first hand experience with minimum clearances between slicks and strut? I'm running Goodyear 23x9 R15 slicks, also run Hoosier 23x9.5 R15s. Both tires are pretty stiff. Trying out some new wheels with a bit more positive offset.
  18. For some people it's just a "grass is always greener" thing. I know I have that problem sometimes. My 240 has a stroker with triple 44s that makes WELL over 300hp and almost 290 tq. It absolutely rips and runs flawlessly but sometimes the turbo bug creeps in and makes me reconsider everything (damn it's annoying). You're not crazy for considering a trade if that's what you really want. The hard part is deciding. My car spends most of it's time at the track or auto x where I believe my setup is better suited (my opinion only). If I began using the car for more street/trips and just ran an occasional track day then I would definitely build a stroker turbo.
  19. Mayolives, My truck is an '05 2500 4x4 crew cab. I built the intake and exhaust myself (because I'm cheap). The transmission has been built with a billet low stall converter and a trans-go kit. I also use a Smarty programmer. It has 3:73 gears and 285/70/17s. With no load the best I can get is 23 mpg. Loaded with trailer, Z car, junk, is 17-18 mpg all day long. I've duplicated these numbers over and over again. I've heard claims of higher numbers, especially with the older 12 valve engines. Mine is the last of the HO 5.9L engines. Economy of the new 6.7L is poor from what I've heard. PM me if you want specifics (happy to share).
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